Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Jdub

    Infection Leading to Sour Aftertaste?

    i know exactly what you mean and it sounds like you fermented at a low temp, so you did it right. my 1st was am lager and it had a green apple cider taste. The beers will improve with some of the craft refills. even better are the partial mash recipes. keep it up!
  3. StretchNM

    Infection Leading to Sour Aftertaste?

    That sour batch was American Lager and I did not cold crash it. I really didn't know about it, but I read a link from rick beer's signature line about it now and will certainly cold crash this next batch. Yes, Jdub, it fermented for 3 weeks to the day. I didn't have a hydrometer then so I just went by 21 days. Again, that morning before setting up all my bottling operation, I tasted a small sample from the spigot. I had learned that if it tasted sweet it was not ready. And if it tasted like flat beer, it was. Well, it tasted like flat beer with a "wine" smell and taste. After bottling and carbonating for three weeks that wine taste and smell subsided but you could taste the sourness in the aftertaste. Not a lot, but certainly noticeable. Thanks
  4. Jdub

    Infection Leading to Sour Aftertaste?

    i read your question and you said you saw the bubbles at bottling time. i assume you let it ferment for 3 weeks. did you cold crash? i have had yeast rafts before as well. cold crash and they will most likely disappear. cider taste could be extract twang. i have experienced that, even when fermenting at low temps. just the way it is sometimes. good luck and keep brewing.
  5. StretchNM

    Infection Leading to Sour Aftertaste?

    That picture was taken just before bottling. No, the cap stayed on until bottling day. In fact, I even bottled it before calling Mr. Beer about the yeast rafts, mostly because I had everything set up and waiting. Now, I had tasted a shot glass full out of the spigot earlier that morning, and that's when I first noticed the aftertaste, but I didn;t notice the rafts until bottling time. I did my fermentation in a regular Walmart cooler which was at about 60-62 degrees for the duration of the ferment. I really don't know what the wort temperature was, but a little thermometer sticker that came with my Kit showed the temperature to be "right" the whole time. I was anal about peeking in with a flashlight at all hours. This little thermometer doesn't show degrees, it's just a three-way: too warm, just right, and too cool. It stayed in the checkmark center position the whole time. Anyway, thank you. If they're indeed yeast rafts then they probably didn't cause the aftertaste, is that right? I've discussed this "sourness" a little in another thread (carbonation vs conditioning) and the only thing left to conclude is that I did something wrong during sanitizing. Attached is a small picture of the thermometer on the keg. I'm brewing 1776 Ale right now and the "checkmark" has been very steady, indicating proper temperature. Safale US-05 yeast was used in this one. The two flip top bottles you see are two of the bottles I put back for more conditioning. I'm trying these two at the cooler temps in the cooler - the rest are in a top cabinet in the kitchen for warmth. I'm seeking and following all advice given. I don't want another "sour" batch.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Brian N.

    Infection Leading to Sour Aftertaste?

    Cider-like taste and sour are very different. Often too high a temperature during fermentation will result in a cider taste. Sour is like a sour pickle (minus the salt).
  8. RickBeer

    Infection Leading to Sour Aftertaste?

    Yeast rafts. Also, don't open LBK to take pictures of wort during fermentation. 3-4. 3 weeks fermentation, with temp of wort around 65. 4 weeks in bottles, temps of 70 or higher. Then refrigerate only what you're ready to drink for 3 days or more, leaving the rest to continue to condition.
  9. I've been reading old posts page-by-page. Somewhere on page 4 or 5 was a thread on fermenting infections. There was 1 picture but then the OP was referred to google beer yeast infections, so I did that. I couldn't find much that was clear and intelligible to me. I brewed my very first Mr Beer batch back near the end of January, and bottled and carbonated it until March 4. It had a sour aftertaste. I don't know if "sour" is the correct word, so just imagine a cidery, wine-like, sourness. Just an aftertaste. It's otherwise very drinkable. Anyway, at bottling time I saw these small, white, circles of tiny bubbles floating on the surface. A quick call to Mr Beer and it was diagnosed as most likely "yeast rafts". These little "rafts', again, are small white bubbles and I have a picture or two attached. They look like white spots in the picture, but they really are tiny bubbles clustered into small circles. Can anyone diagnose this? I'm wondering now if that was gave my batch a "soury" aftertaste. Thank you
  10. Last week
  11. Brian N.

    LME Softpack versus Brewmax Booster

    One thing to add - keep the bottles OUT of the fridge unless you are going to drink them all . Put what you expect to drink into the fridge 3-4 days before. Let the rest sit and condition longer. You'll notice a difference (a positive way) in the ones that condition longer. BTW I always opt for added malt rather than booster. I've never found that a packet of LME or a few ounces of DME wildly swings the flavor to make the beer too malty.
  12. Hydrometer is a great tool. Make sure to log your readings and observations for each brew as it's a great help when you brew a recipe again.
  13. Do you ever tire answering this question? LOL. Maybe it's the beer, but do I sense a level of snarkiness in your use of uppercase for the word "PERFECT"?
  14. D Kristof

    LME Softpack versus Brewmax Booster

    You've already been given 3 good answers to your questions, but I will toss my wooden nickle of advice any way. Booster is a combination of different sugars. Be careful with your fermentation temperatures or you could get off flavors which will fade over time, but who wants to wait with a wheat beer?
  15. RickBeer

    carbo drops vs sugar

    Actually, the recommendation is 3-4. 3 weeks fermenting with wort temps at 65, 4 weeks carbonating and conditioning at 70 or higher. Then 3 days or more in the frig. If you go less than 4 weeks, or less than 3 days, you won't have the same level of carbonation. The 3 days is needed for the CO2 to absorb back into the beer.
  16. pborder

    carbo drops vs sugar

    They sit at room temp.
  17. Shrike

    carbo drops vs sugar

    What temperature are the bottles sitting at while carbonating? It's recommended to do a full three weeks at room temperature, meaning around 70-75F, to completely carb your brews. If it's cooler than that, it'll take longer. I've never used the drops. I've always used sugar. Now I stick with Domino's Dots. 1 sugar cube = 1/2 tsp. I use one for 12oz bottles and two for pint and 500ml bottles. Simple and fool-proof.
  18. pborder

    carbo drops vs sugar

    Since returning to Mr Beer I have only used the carbo drops mostly for the convenience. Before I only used sugar because it was the only thing the instructions mentioned. I have been a bit disappointed in the amount of carbonation that I have been getting. I seem to remember more but with the batches that I have done there has been very little ( I will confess that I do have a hard time waiting much past two weeks). The bottles were new and the tops were screwed on as tightly as I can. This latest batch of American Porter I am trying an experiment. Half the bottles were sugar and half carbo drops. In two weeks I will take a bottle of each, chill them and see if there is a difference in carbonation. While I'm waiting I wanted to ask if any of you have had problems with the drops or if you see a difference between using them and using sugar?
  19. Shrike

    LME Softpack versus Brewmax Booster

    One thing to consider when adding LME is that the balance of maltiness vs. hoppiness in the final product will be shifted a tad towards malty. To counter this, some people will add a bit of hops at flameout or boil them for a few minutes. Tettnanger, Saaz, or Hallertau are three varieties that complement the style.
  20. RickBeer

    LME Softpack versus Brewmax Booster

    Have you read the descriptions of the two products on the Mr. Beer site? Answers all your questions. https://www.mrbeer.com/brewmax-lme-softpack-golden https://www.mrbeer.com/mrbeer-booster-1410
  21. Stevo0083

    LME Softpack versus Brewmax Booster

    1. The softpack would give you a more full bodied beer and better mouthfeel. The booster packs will get the job done just may "feel" a little thinner. 2. You could use the boosters and the soft pack. your ABV would be bumped up quite a bit. Will need more conditioning time. 3.From what I understand the golden is geared to wheat and the pale is two row malts. would have slightly different characteristics. Brew on!
  22. I'm about to boil my fourth beer. The first one (American Pale) turned out spectacularly (refrigerator is full of 25 ounce bottles now after testing one), and I've got two others conditioning and looking very encouraging. Time to boil a fourth and get it fermenting. I have three different refills on hand, and I am thinking I'll do the Bavarian Weissbeer for this next one. The question is about the adjuncts. I notice that there are two versions of the Bavarian Weissbeer. The standard one has Brewmax Booster packets. The Deluxe has the LME Softpack. Questions: 1. What is the difference between these two adjunct ingredients in terms of the final outcome, the end product beer? How does each affect the final product? 2. If I used both the LME Softpack and the two Brewmax Boosters together (I have both on hand now, so I could do that tomorrow), would that be a good thing, or a bad thing? If it is a good thing, would it effect the fermenting time and / or the conditioning time? 3. Does the difference between LME Softpack - Golden an LME Softpack - Pale affect the drinking profile of the final product at all, or is it just a color thing? Thanks for any advice!
  23. Creeps McLane

    Upcoming Brewing Schedule

    Switching my regular saison hopping schedule to match that of noble king. So on sunday im gonna do one mash, two boils, three beers. IPA, Hoppy saison and a fruited hoppy saison. This is the last of competition brews for this year as of right now.
  24. RickBeer

    Carbonation versus Conditioning

    Sanitizing your LBK before putting it away is fine, but unnecessary. If you're not re-sanitizing it on brew day, that is not ok. You must sanitize all equipment just before using it. One Step is NOT superior to Star San, it's different. Both are no-rinse sanitizers. Star San works faster. Star San stores longer. But it is not better at sanitizing.
  25. DEFbrewer

    Carbonation versus Conditioning

    I thought Mr B sanitizer was One Step. Yes I think so. I read it on the forum somewhere. Still Star San has really upped my game when it comes to sanitizing brew equipment. I use it on clean bottles, LBKs, brew day utenciles and I use it on the spigot after getting my FG sample before cold crasing and before bottling.
  26. gophers6

    Carbonation versus Conditioning

    I thought Mr B sanitizer was One Step.
  27. StretchNM

    Carbonation versus Conditioning

    I bought some PBW and am going to clean the Keg again with unscented soap, sponge, and then PBW. Then I can still sanitize it before setting aside to get ready for the next batch (which will be within days). The first time for sanitizer I used MrBeer's no-rinse packet as instructed, but then I bought some "One Step" and thought I would use this solution on the next brewing/bottling. Plus, I don't think my Voodoo refill came with any sanitizer. What do you think of One Step? Probably not as good as Star San (?). I might try some of that next time. I also visited a nice home brewery store in a large city near me (El Paso) and learned a lot about adding steeping grains, etc. SO, thanks for getting me started learning about that. I don't think I'll delve into that quite yet. Maybe after a couple of three successful brews are under my belt.
  28. Nickfixit

    Carbonation versus Conditioning

    If you don't want to steep grains, adding the Golden (wheat) LME/DME or even booster or maltodextrin powder will help head retention too. When you sanitize the LBK before putting the wort in, don't forget to open and shut the spigot a few times quickly before letting it sit its 10 min. The spigot sanitizing flow can be used on the plate for your utensils to sanitize that too. Also to sanitize it ALL over inside, I invert the LBK and shake it a bit as well as shaking it right side up before adding the spoons etc. to sanitize there as well. After the 10 min I put the utensils on the plate and invert/shake it again to be sure then give it another 5 or as long as I can based on the other parts of the process. I used to get infections but have not since I started doing that. I also use some sanitizer from the bottles in the LBK after cleaning, before putting it away when bottling.
  1. Load more activity
×