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  3. 1) You technically should watch your beer like a hawk. Wait for the krausen to fall and then do the DR. You want to hit about 75-80% attenuation. I have done a number of things, lowering 5 degrees everyday until 35 degrees or the dangerous method of "crashing" to 35 immediately and then lagering in the fermenter. 2), carb at 70 3) you get benefits from each. Id condition for 1/2 warm and 1/2 cold of your target drinking date 4) ideally, this is crazy, theres so many lagering methods now. Any way, if its 1.040, then lager for 4 weeks, 1.050, 5 weeks so on and so on. methods of making a lager ferment to 75%, DR (and DH) for a few days. DR is usually good after 24 hours but if youre dry hopping then youll want some time at that warm temp. Crash to 35, lager for how I explained in #4 point. ferment at ideal temp, at 50%, raise 5 degrees, 75% raise 5 degrees until terminal, crash and keg. in the end as i always say, its your beer. Do what you want
  4. 3 weeks bottle conditioning and my first taste. Wow! Great beer. I can see these going quickly. A hint of banana, and a bit of clove. Will certainly be re-ordering this recipe.
  5. WOO HOO!!! LOL!
  6. Yesterday
  7. @MiniYoda From my experience with MRB lagers, I would recommend the 2-3 day diacetyl rest, but not necessarily the cold-crash. Carbonate @ room temp. for a couple weeks, then lager in your beer fridge until consumption. Great experiment, Yoda!
  8. Last keg, Helles with grains Canadian Blonde, is in the fridge. Temp at pitch was 63.7. Other kegs are holding in the low 50's with the temp control at 52. Now we wait. And as we wait, we decide what to do. I've learned that if you ask 20 economists a question, you'll get 30 different answers. Based on what I've read in books, online, from this forum, other forums, and on pod casts, how to ferment/condition lagers is about the same thing. WAY too many different ways of what to do next. I'm inviting those who know, *everyone*, to post their thoughts on what I do next. 1) The beer is going to live in the keg for about 19-21 days. The keg I made today is going to ferment for 19 days (bottling this one on Labor day). What should I do before bottle day: a) remove from the fridge 2 days early for a rest? Is it called diastolic? b) cold crash for two days? The three kegs which are partial mash have 1/2 teaspoon of Irish Moss, my first time using (for the record, if you want to buy Irish moss, buy only one bag. I bought two, and after three kegs, I have enough to last..........quite a long time). Still I'm going for as much clarity as I can on these, and don't know if Irish Moss will sink to the bottom after a while, or if it might float in the bottle. c) a bit of both? Out of the fridge for a day or two for a rest, then cold crash for a day or two? 2) At what temp do I carbonate? I've seen carbonate at room temp just like regular ales. If so, would this eliminate the need to rest at room temp above? Or carbonate at the low 50's like they are fermenting 3) At what temp do I condition? Yes, these are lagers, so they will be conditioning for a while, probably past full Oktoberfest. But I want to make them the best I can. I've seen everything from condition at room temp to condition as low as 35 degrees. 4) And in the same theory of "best I can", recommended minimal lagering at the above temp? Thanks
  9. Yeah, I went back and re-read the thread and just saw that. I've read of people using blenders to mix the DME so you should be fine. ETA: I was looking for this video earlier but got distracted. He tries four methods to combine the DME with water. The fourth is via blender (starts at 2:20), which in the description of the video was described as "surprisingly effective".
  10. Well, I've only ever brewed with the S-05 and the Belle Saison (out of the ones you listed, anyway), so I kinda had to stay in that territory lol
  11. Pale ales and saisons are my two favorite styles. This is a contender for sure
  12. No idea if I'm trying to use already-used items, but: 1X NWPA 8 oz Pale 1 oz each Citra/Cascade Flameout 1 oz each Citra/Cascade/Sorachi dry hop 1 week before bottle/keg Belle Saison, fermented cool, like 65F I'm envisioning a hoppy pale with a really subtle Saison funk. It's a frankenbeer, but I think it sounds good. More involved stuff has already been posted, mine is intended more for a squeeze-a-session-in-a-free-afternoon sorta thing.
  13. You win. Best idea yet
  14. I mentioned that in an earlier post in this thread. Long story short. The DME clumped horribly while I was mixing it. I ended up putting the mess in a blender to break it all up.
  15. @Creeps McLane Just throw it all together in one big "all or nothing go big or go home" brew......
  16. I have had this happen with home brews as well. Crazy as it may sound, I think it may have something to do with the cold beer/warm class combination. Whenever I throw the glass in the freezer for a few minutes prior to pouring, I don't seem to have this issue. I dunno... maybe it's just coincidence. 🤔
  17. You know you're not going to just drop that there and not have someone ask you about it, right?!?
  18. Hi Andy, My Zombie Fest is in the bottles and will be ready to chill and further condition September 3rd. The bottles are starting to firm up nicely. So my first taste should be mid to late September. I'm very excited about this and will definitely let you all know how it turned out. I had some issues with dissolving the DME in the initial brewing stages and had to use a radical approach. So if this turns out OK, it just further proves how easy ~ and forgiving ~ home brewing can be. - Good luck to you -
  19. OK then, a Blonde Lager dry-hopped w/Galena. I would enjoy that.🍻
  20. You make me want to send you a sixer, a gravity chair and a byo magazine. And myself also so we can gossip about everyone else...
  21. That might just be the problem, too many ingredients to choose from! I wish I had the time to entertain, Creeps. I barely have enough time to knock two back before heading to bed each night. I'm following along in spirit though!
  22. Just did a yeast starter for the mexican lager yeast. I gotta use it up, simple and plain. So regardless of what i brew, half will be a lager. Not sure where all the recipe entries are. Yall are smart people who make your own recipes all the time. probably with a lot less than i have on hand...
  23. Last week
  24. I am not remotely qualified to comment on the ease or difficulty of any of that, but we're always looking for ways to improve and definitely appreciate the feedback, which will again be passed to the appropriate staff.
  25. It does get a little confusing. I can speak confidently off the top of my head about the MRB line, but the DIY line (as you've no doubt noticed) has had some changes, and I'm still catching up a bit (to my shame). I'll try and make time to get a more definitive answer on those. The LP IPA (silvery packet) and BW (white papery packet) definitely have unique yeasts just for those refills. The rest have the standard MRB yeast (gold packet), produced by Coopers. This means that technically, if brewed with no adjustments to yeasts, our lager refills are lager-style ales. Of course, there's nothing stopping anyone from subbing in S-23 or something like that, but we find this way creates greater ease of use for most of our brewers.
  26. Then I would say that you're fine. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck!! 😀👍🏽
  27. this like my 8th batch of beer 2.13 gallon using dry yeast Safale US-05 Dry Ale Yeast
  28. The base Churchill's is a little underwhelming to me, and I was wondering if anyone threw an extra HME into it? I know there are a handful of craft recipes that use 2 HMEs (Burleywine, Gila Monster, etc) and wondering if throwing, say a Diablo IPA or Bewitched Amber along with Churchill's would move it from a nice light brown into scotch or strong ale territory? I don't see any recipes using Churchill's along with another (I could have missed it). I'm a relative newbie (only 7 batches so far) and not into the mad sciencing of mashing and malts (yet). I see that old Cooper's recipe adds a LME (Pale). http://store.coopers.com.au/recipes/index/view/id/125/ Is adding a 2nd HME too bold? Thanks!
  29. From what I can tell, there are 3 types of Mr B yeast that I can identify. * the metallic packets for ale yeast, in some the date code is followed by the letters IM and some not. I have not identified the difference yet except that "IM" yeast is included in the Craft series Winter Dark Ale and Diablo IPA. All of the standard refills I have seem not to have the "IM". As for Seasonals, they use a specialty Saflager/Safale yeast. * the paper packets - these are the wheat yeast. The date code is followed by a "W" and the letters "B/N" Unlike Cooper's Mr Beer does not seem to have their own labeled lager yeast and use a Saflager or other yeast for that when they want you to ferment at low temperatures. The Refills labeled as lagers or pilsner from what I can tell come with the standard Ale Yeast. Cooper's lagers do not- they have lager yeast - or lager/ale yeast mix. So this makes the need to identify a bit lass critical I think. Maybe Mr Beer Josh or Tim can elaborate on this - or correct me if my analysis is wrong..
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