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  2. Cato

    Upcoming Brewing Schedule

    Back into the brewing this week trying a Josh Weikert based Altbier recipe. As usual with a new recipe, I'll stay fairly close to the grist ratios with just some slight grist substitutions on my part. So interested to see how it fares against my Dusseldorf Alt. I think I'll always want to have an Alt in my inventory. Next after the Alt will be my return to a Witbier. Heavy wheats are totally out of my wheelhouse but Erdlinger Wit, Mothership Wit, and Blue Moon fall in it. I find myself often adding either white or red wheat instead of Carapils or Carafoam to my recipes these days. Poor wheat grinds from suppliers prompted me to get a grain mill last fall, and since then it's made a big impact on my BIAB process.
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  5. Lukon

    Can I condition THEN carbonate?

    Lol, I’ll just tell the she-devil I HAVE to purchase more kegs... I like sleeping with my beer stuff.
  6. D Kristof

    Can I condition THEN carbonate?

    The one gallon jugs are probably just for fermentation and not pressure resistant. That means carbonating in those jugs would create a huge mess when the pressure cracks the jugs open. If you ferment in one jug and transfer into a second jug with an airlock for long term storage, you risk oxidation (wet cardboard flavors), skunking from exposure to light and infections. If it was my beer and I hated bottling, I'd suck it up and bottle until funding permitted me to keg.
  7. Lukon

    Can I condition THEN carbonate?

    That is what I would do ideally. I can’t afford more kegs right now, so I wondered if there was any point in brewing a batch ahead and storing it mostly flat until a keg freed up... sounds like it’s not advisable?
  8. Lukon

    Can I condition THEN carbonate?

    The idea is to fill the pipeline. I only have two mini kegs, so if they are occupied, could I condition beer in jugs and carbonate them later in the kegs when the kegs are available...
  9. D Kristof

    Can I condition THEN carbonate?

    Conditioning and carbonation aren't mutually exclusive time frames. As your beer is carbonating it is conditioning. As your beer is conditioning it is carbonating. Your yeast are living entities. They're swimming around looking for food to eat. Regardless of what container you transfer your beer to the yeast is still swimming around in search of food. Part of "conditioning" is suspended solids are settling out. That's going to happen while your yeast are still swimming around searching for food. The key to successful brewing is doing everything you can to prevent your beer from developing off flavors or infections. Brew your beer. After fermentation has completed cold crash your beer. Transfer it to your (pressure resistant) dispensing container and set it somewhere with steady temperatures.
  10. Brian N.

    Can I condition THEN carbonate?

    Question - Does your mini keg system allow you to carbonate with CO2 under pressure? If not, I would prime with sugar and carbonate/condition as usual.
  11. Jdub

    Can I condition THEN carbonate?

    why can't you just transfer from your fermenter to your mini keg and carb and condition in that? fewer steps the better in my opinion. maybe you can do it as you described, but i don't know.
  12. I know, sounds like a silly question, but hear me out. I’m wanting to fill up my pipeline without spending a lot more money right away. The Boss Lady is close to making me sleep with my beer stuff as it is. I brewed a couple batches decades ago and had fun with it. I remembered I hate bottling, and I don’t have the space or funds for a full sized kegging system, so I found a 1 gallon sized mini keg system that I’m really happy with. While not real expensive, the 1 gallon kegs are not cheap. I explored 1 gallon jugs, even found some that are supposedly used by home brewers, but the consensus seems to be that it’s risky. Then I hit on the idea of filling them without priming sugar and letting them condition that way. If after four weeks conditioning flat like that, I transfer them to a mini keg and prime them, thus reawakening the yeasties, will the conditioning be undone and the clock reset, or does it not even count as conditioning unless the beer is carbonated? Maybe just put minimal priming sugar in to way undercarbonate, but make enough co2 to clear the oxygen from the transfer?
  13. D Kristof

    2 gallon to 3 gallon

    @Rotty, if you add water, LME, DME, hops, etc., you will change the flavor profile of the MrBeer HME. The bigger question is, "changed it by how much?" That can only be determined by you the brewer and your ability to taste the differences. Reading about classic styles, practicing steeping grains, practicing partial mashes, dry hopping, hop boils etc., you can make each batch your signature brew. The opportunities are endless. The only restrictions are how adventurous you are, how quickly you can learn new skills, and how fast you can drink beer to free up bottles and storage space for your pipeline.
  14. Lukon

    First Batch CAL

    Thanks so much. That is exactly the information I needed.
  15. RickBeer

    First Batch CAL

    I have one of these (just remembered). The 1/2" OD hose is too big to fit inside it. And too small to fit on the outside. A standard bottling wand fits inside it, which is 5/16" OD. Therefore, a hose that is 5/16" OD should work.
  16. Lukon

    First Batch CAL

    Thanks. I just got the kit. It’s the black spigot. I’m pretty sure the hose goes into it, not over it. Any customers who can tell me the hose I need would be greatly appreciated 😊
  17. RickBeer

    First Batch CAL

    Thanks. Take a look at the links in my signature if you haven't already. That's a question fraught with danger, because there are at least 4 Mr. Beer LBK spigots in existence. The "oldest" Mr. Beer LBKs used a hose that slipped OVER the spigot, and that hose then slipped over the bottling wand. Mr. Beer ships their bottling wands with a small piece of hose for that purpose. The next version of the spigot the bottling wand went up into the spigot, so no hose was needed. I have no idea what the newest version of the spigot uses. You've got 3 options: 1) When you next empty the LBK, remove the spigot (which should be removed and disassembled, then cleaned, each batch anyway), and take it to the store and see what fits best. 2) Call Mr. Beer Customer Service M - F. 3) See if you can identify which spigot you have and have another customer tell you what they use. I have the spigots which are white, swivel side to side, and the hose goes over the spigot. That hose is 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD.
  18. Lukon

    First Batch CAL

    Will do, and thanks.
  19. D Kristof

    First Batch CAL

    Rickbeer is the answer man. Usually, for home brewers time cures most ills. The MrBeer yeast is Cooper's ale yeast. It is one of the most temperature ambivalent yeasts available. Bottle the CAL and let em sit.
  20. Lukon

    First Batch CAL

    That’s pretty much what I figured, and that would be fine with me. My concern is the temperature, and that I will get a nasty cider flavor. I’m contemplating just tossing it and starting again. I’ve got the Czech Pilsner and Pale DME ready to go. The good news is, I just picked up a used Frigidaire for $50 that’ll hold two LBKs, and I ordered the temp controller on Amazon just now. RickBeer seems to really know his stuff, so I’ll be following his advice regarding temps and brew times. I’m still curious about the yeast. If I use Mr. Beer yeast or US-05 at 65 degrees, will it taste the same either way? Also, does anybody know what hose size (OD) fits in the spigot of the LBK for transferring to my mini-kegs?
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  23. StretchNM

    First Batch CAL

    At mrbeer.com the recipe calls for Aztec Mexican Cerveza extract, and..... - the Standard Refill has 2 booster packs and the Deluxe has one Pale LME. You may know all that by now. It sounds like you're going to get standard (dry) light beer. ON EDIT: Since the deed is already done, at least float a couple 'penos or dried chile arbol in there.
  24. RickBeer

    First Batch CAL

    An extra week does help. That's going from 2 to 3 weeks. Week 3 is the extra week. Follow the 3-4 rule. 3 weeks fermentation (ideally 65 degree wort temp) followed by 4 weeks in bottles (ideally 70 or a bit higher), followed by at least 3 days in the fridge for the beer you will drink in 3 days. DME is stronger than LME, because the water is removed. The ratio is: 1 pound of LME = 0.8 pounds of DME. 1 pounds of DME = 1.25 pounds of LME Adding 1 pound of LME is the max I would do, that's why I said 3/4 pound. 1/2 would be fine also. The lighter the beer, the more noticeable the addition is.
  25. Lukon

    First Batch CAL

    I hear you. It was not my choice to add the sugar on day two. It was only then that I grew suspicious that something was missing, so I called in and was advised to do so to try and save the batch. I thought I read somewhere here that an extra week of primary fermentation helped clean up the beer some. I guess you’re saying that is not so. Do you think I should consider just a half pound if DME with the Czech Pilsner?
  26. RickBeer

    First Batch CAL

    Zero reason to ferment 4 weeks. Adding a cup of sugar dries out the beer as you noted. Add it the next day is not something I would have done. No reason to use S-05 instead of Mr. Beer yeast. A pound of DME is pushing the high side. I might go with 3/4 pound and NO SUGAR.
  27. Lukon

    First Batch CAL

    Ordered my Mr. Beer kit on Amazon; it was supposed to be Mexican Cerveza, but I received Classic American Light. No problem right? I follow the directions exactly, “...if there are booster packs, add them at this time...” There were not. I was suspicious after reviewing the refill packages on This site, so I called in. Thanks guys for the help. So the next day,, I boil a cup of sugar in a cup of water, let it cool and add it. I’m good with that, as I kind of like a drier beer in the summer. Then I discover these forums... My temps were too high 70-72 ambient. Should I let it ferment four weeks instead of three before cold crashing, then condition it even longer, or should I just toss it and start again? I’m expecting cider. Needless to say, I’m getting a mini-fridge and temp controller setup together. I’ll be carbonating and conditioning in 1 gallon stainless mini-kegs, which are in limited supply, so I may not wish to waste the space on crappy beer. Also, should I move to US-05 yeast for the next batch - the Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner, also from Amazon with no booster - I bought a pound of Pale DME at the local brew shop; should I add the whole pound or half plus some sugar? I know that’s subjective, but give me your opinions. I brewed three or four decent five gallon batches back in the early nineties, so its not my first rodeo, but things were quite different then, cooler for one. The one bit of good news is that I think my sanitizing was quite good 😉
  28. Rotty

    2 gallon to 3 gallon

    I have the 3G conical. Although I haven't produced any bad beers yet and my neighbors have all liked what I have done. I am not feeling quite ready to jump into full on recipes. I guess I'll try a couple partial mashes first to see how that goes then start full on recipes. Thanks.
  29. RickBeer

    2 gallon to 3 gallon

    Simple answer. You can't. Can you turn a 2 gallon HME recipe into a 3 gallon batch? Yes. Can you do that without changing the flavor profile? No. Adding LME /DME and hops will allow you to brew a 3 gallon batch with the same ABV if you figure it out. What it will not have is the same malt profile, the same hop profile, therefore it will not have the same flavor or aroma. Since you don't know what hops Mr. Beer uses, and can't replicate what's in the can, you can't up it by 50% and make the same. Will it be good? Possibly? But it won't be the same. You can also fit a max of 2.5 gallons in a Mr. Beer LBK. In reality, you'll get out about 2.25 gallons of usable beer at best, and that's with cold crashing. On a similar note, find any commercial beer you like. Now, you want to make it via Mr. Beer's HME recipes. Not possible. None of the Mr. Beer cans will replicate a commercial beer. HOWEVER, you can look for clone recipes of commercial beers, ones that are made with LME/DME and hops, and configure a 2.5 gallon recipe to maximize a Mr. Beer LBK. Or you can use a bigger fermenter...
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