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  2. But some recipes call for a cup of white granulated sugar and these are Mr. Beer own recipes. Would you have substituted that?
  3. Tried searching the forum first before asking about Witch's Flight recipe. I got my ingredients today and put the hops, LME, and Safale US-05 yeast in the fridge until needed. I noticed the Safale yeast has 11.6 grams. Wanted to confirm that I should only should need 1/2 the packet for my 2 gal. LBK? Also will pester with one other question. Some recipes like this one call for filling to 8.5 quart mark on the LBK. Do I add that additional quart ?
  4. I store all my yeast and any hops, as soon as I receive them from Mr Beer, in my refrigerator. A few hours before I use them, I get them out of the frig, so they can get up to room temp. Crazy things can go on in my life that can keep me from starting a brew. I like to err on the side of caution and freshness.
  5. I've been brewing for almost 6 years now, and have NEVER added sugar to a batch. NEVER. You do used a special sugar for certain types of beer, but otherwise use LME or DME.
  6. I have read a few places that some of you remove the packet of yeast from the lid and store in refrigerator until ready to use. Is that necessary? I have several refills that I will use in the next couple of months. Seems like the yeast should be fine. After all, It would have been sitting on a shelf in a warehouse if it were not in my house.
  7. Today
  8. EXCITING! Keep us posted
  9. You're welcome; everyone here was new to all of this at some point. Booster's basically just a form of corn sugar. From what I understand it's used instead of table sugar because table sugar adds a dry taste and can add to any cidery character. Booster doesn't do that. Good idea on starting a log. I did that when I got back into brewing the summer of 2016. As I was also new to the MRB LMEs and hop additions, the first brews I did were the American Ale HME straight up, then another of it but with one LME added, then one more with the same LME but this time with a 20 minute hop boil. It was a great learning experience. I chose the American Ale because by itself it's kind of bland but still enjoyable. Not everyone's got the time or the desire to do something like that, but I'm glad I did.
  10. I normally don't point out a typo...unless it's a hilarious one!
  11. Just be sure that the ice chest has enough room for the frozen bottles and the spigot. Don't want that pressed against the wall and risk leaking. My frozen bottles do not touch the keg. I think temp control is going to make all the difference. You surely want to get it right before starting that Munich Malt Monster. $$$. On another note. I noticed I had to find a warmer place in my house for carbonation. If you are carbing at 70 or below, it is going to take a bit longer time. 75 degrees seems to be the magic number. After three weeks, you can move them to room temperature to condition.
  12. HAHAHAHA!!! Just noticed that and fixed it.
  13. You wee AFTER you drink the beer!
  14. The cooler method worked great for me. It's inexpensive, convenient, doesn't take up much space, and if you have an overflow it's contained. All you have to do is remember to change out the bottles. The only reason I went to a mini-fridge and Inkbird was because I could go out of town without worrying about my wort getting too hot. As far as the bottles are concerned, you'll learn from experience on how many to use and how long they'll last. I used 24oz bottles. For the first day I kept two in the cooler until the temp strip read around 64. Then I'd take those two out, put in a fresh one, and swap out every 12 hours. I did that for the first four or five days until high krausen was complete. After that I swapped out once a day, unless I noticed the temperature rising past about 68. I have the temp strip on the LBK just slightly lower than halfway down. So in order to read it I used a hand held mirror and a flashlight.
  15. Well, we do have access to rice syrup solids. Let me see what I can do.
  16. Ok I can see that this is gonna take some time to compare batches over time. I need to start logging what I’ve done to compare properly. Thanks for the booster explanation. I didn’t understand that.
  17. I tried one six weeks after bottling and it wasn't quite ready. I had another two weeks after that and it was good to go.
  18. @Marius thanks. I am gonna try it for my next batch. I measured the LBK and it looks like it will fit perfectly in a igloo cube rolling cooler that I have. Also ordered some temp strips on amazon with a more specific range other than just too cold, hot or ✅. Will be interesting to see how cooler fermentation works out. I am very green at this hobby and don’t know much.
  19. Booster adds alcohol but doesn't affect the taste of your beer. Malt extract, whether dry or liquid, adds alcohol as well as affecting the taste. As Rickbeer says, it's usually a good idea to brew an HME as is before tinkering with it through LME/DME. If you don't know what it tastes like to begin with, how can you know how to augment it to best suit your desired end product? For example, adding a couple of packets of LME to a hoppier HME is going to dilute the hops. If you were looking for a hoppy character, you'd then need to also do a hop boil or add some at flameout to make up for it.
  20. I'm actually still drinking them. It's not one of my better brews, but not too bad with all the conditioning on them now. I still believe my fermentation wasn't complete, but I had no bottle bombs. They are a little sweet though. I don't plan on making this one again, but I don't want to discourage anyone from trying it.
  21. I am going to follow this, because I want to know what the experts have to say. But I will also tell you what I understand and have done at this point. The only true measure of wort temperature is a probe thermometer that goes into the wort. Being a newbie and afraid of infection, I'm not there. So assuming that the LBK inside liquid temperature is a little warmer than the ice chest temperature, I always aim a few degrees below the target. During peak fermentation, my ice chest temp is 60ish. This will fluctuate a little, but not much if you change the frozen bottles out regularly. After the first week, I let it rise a few degrees, but not above 65. Some will let it rise to 70 the last few days before cold crashing. This has worked great for me so far and I have not minded tending to the beer daily. The smell of it is going to be a pleasure as well. Also prop the front of the keg so the trub will settle toward the rear of the keg. You will be glad you did.
  22. Ok I’ll see how this turns out and then brew it again just straight up. When I read the reviews for this recipe someone mentioned that they had added sugar to it and it was great.
  23. That will simply thin out your beer. The cup of honey raises ABV and makes the finish drier, and the corn sugar just did it more. I always recommend making the recipe as stated before altering it so you know what it tastes like.
  24. No different than any other refill.
  25. You might want to spend some time reading the stickies at the top of the forum, and reading through posts that discuss your questions. Lots of good info to read. A way to cheat on conditioning time is to look at the original gravity of a recipe. Us the last digits, often a 4, 5, or 6, as the minimum number of weeks you should wait. But the reality is that everyone has different tastes. Go 4 weeks, take ONE bottle and refrigerate for 3 days, then try it. Do another bottle at 6 weeks, and another at 8. See what YOU like for that recipe.
  26. any suggestions on conditioning time?
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