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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/08/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Because those directions are for making beer. You follow the 3-4 process at 65 for making better beer!
  2. 2 points
    scouterbill

    LME, boiling hops and color.

    Probably not a real pressing need to do a boil of the remaining extract. However, if I just spent the better part of an hour with hop additions and the cost involved (hops & dme/lme) I know that the extra 10 minutes to boil the remaining malt extract to be sure that it is sanitized is a small price to pay. But that's just me.
  3. 2 points
    As Josh R said, brew according to the yeast & beer style. With the Coopers/Mr Beer yeast, 68-76 is fine. With Nottingham (and many other yeasts) you would want the 68 to be the top end of the spectrum, with 62 being common for a lot of ale yeasts, and ones like Nottingham can easily drop down into the mid 50's and still be fine. "Brewers make wort - yeast makes beer."
  4. 2 points
    No. Because you're confusing CARBONATION with head. They aren't the same. You can have a highly carbonated beer that produces no head. In fact, MOST of the Mr. Beer batches won't have any head, people steep Carapils or Carafoam, or add wheat LME/DME to increase head.
  5. 1 point
    sabres032

    High Peak IPA

    My recipe for a five gallon LME/DME IPA (Split between two LBK's) Malt/Grain bill: 3.3 pounds Briess Pale Ale LME 3.3 Pounds Briess Golden Light LME 1.0 pound Briess Wheat DME 4oz Carapils (steep at 155 for 30 minutes) 1 tsp Gypsum (Bringing steep water to temperature) 1 tsp Irish Moss (final 15 minutes of boil) Hops: 1 ounce Summit at 60 minutes 1 ounce Simcoe at 20 minutes 1 ounce Falconer's Flight 7C's at flame out 0.5 ounce Falconer's Flight 7C's four day dry hop Yeast: 11.5 grams SafAle US-05 (5.75 grams each LBK) Instructions: *Bring 3.5 gallons water to 155-160 and add 1 tsp Gypsum *Steep 4oz carapils for 30 minutes *Bring water to boil and add: 1 pound pale ale malt 1 pound golden light malt 1/2 pound wheat DME boil for 60 minutes with 1.0oz summit hops (bittering boil) *At 20 minutes add 2.3 pounds pale ale malt 2.3 pounds golden light malt 1/2 pound wheat DME with 1.0oz simcoe hops (flavor boil) *At 15 minutes add 1 tsp irish moss (for clarity) *Add 1.0oz FF7C's at flame out *Cool wort over 20 minutes *at 70 degrees add wort to 1 gallon cold water in each LBK and add the Hop sacks to the LBK's * Take OG reading. My recipe was 1.09 at 68 degrees (corrected 1.075) qBrew said estimated OG at 1.055. Not sure what happened... *Pitch 11.5 grams SafAle US-05 (5.75 grams each LBK) *Ferment at 64-66 degrees for 21 days *Add 0.5oz FF7C's to each LBK at day 17 dry hop for 4 days. *Take FG reading (to be updated) Cold crash 3 days Bottle with 3/4 tsp table sugar each 12oz bottle Condition at 70 degrees for 21 days. Refrigerate what I will drink for three days. Enjoy!!!!
  6. 1 point
    slym2none

    High Peak IPA

    I like the addition of the wheat in the grain bill! You are using 1/2 oz of hops in the dry-hop. That leaves you with a half-ounce leftover, right? I'd either throw that in the flameout addition, or would go ahead and dry-hop with a whole ounce. Pardons if this is incorrect - maybe you have these hops around already and that's the amount you have. If so, all apologies. TTTT, I'd split the Simcoe & FF7Cs and use half ounce of each at 20 minutes, then a half ounce each at flameout, but that's just me. I am probably too late, anyway. Regardless, it sounds great, be sure to keep us updated!
  7. 1 point
    Creeps McLane

    Green Bay Wisco

    Menasha! Yes! My wife works for a company based out of menasha. Any good home brew stores by you?
  8. 1 point
    Nickfixit

    Diablo IPA- Carbo Drops

    1.055 - 1.058 is the expected OG range for Diablo. For IPAs in general go to the beer styles web sites e.g. http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/style/116/ This one does not give you the expected OG and FG but you can figure the ABV from the difference between OG and FG. http://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/ From this calculator, going from 1.055 to 1.1375 gives ABV of 5.51. Using the high end numbers, it is 5.78. This is lower than the general run of the IPA beers in the beer advocate site above - cited as Average alcohol by volume (abv) range: 5.5-7.5% You can fix this by adding 1 or 2 packs of LME/DME or booster depending if you want 6.5 or 7.5 Simple Math?? Not so "simple math" if not familiar with specific gravity measurements. You only divide the part to right of decimal point (the .055) by 4, not all of it. 1.000 is water - the 0.055 is from the malt. The malt gets fermented into alcohol lowering the gravity. OG = 1.055 is the unfermented wort low end of range Josh mentioned -so you should get somewhere between OG in the range 1.055 - 1.058 depending on how much you got out of the can, exact amount of water in the fermenter, etc. Corresponding FG fermented beer (starting at 1.055) 1 + 0.055/4 = 1 + 0.01375 = 1.01375. The "4" you divide by is also a "rule of thumb" so it may vary depending on temperature, water, yeast etc. So as long as you get somewhere close to these numbers you are OK.
  9. 1 point
    JoshR

    Question on taking temperature inside LBK

    If it's 65 degrees outside, it will be about 70 in the fermenter because fermentation creates heat. This is the optimal temp. But with that said, these temp recommendations are only a guideline and not "set in stone". Different yeasts and different beer styles will call for different recommendations. Brew your beer according to the style and yeast recommendations. If in doubt, simply use the 68 - 76 recommendation in the instructions. If we wanted to make our kits into rocket science kits, we could have, but we opted for simple instead.
  10. 1 point
    RickBeer

    Banana Beer?

    As you may have seen on the forum, people use frozen water bottles to lower the temperature of the wort in a cooler. To warm the beer, they do the exact same thing - with HOT water bottles... And, you have to use the right yeast as Jim noted back a year ago. All yeast kick up the temp during peak fermentation - some more than others, and some batches more or less than others.
  11. 1 point
    Sounds like solid advice, slym. I meant to say espresso actually. That is what I used when I did my original SMCD. I believe I used 1 shot of Cafe Bustelo the last time (per 12oz bottle) and that was pretty noticeable. I wasn't completely sold on the whiskey, I was looking to give it some bite.
  12. 1 point
    MRB Josh B

    Post Upgrade Community Help Thread

    Try it now. I had been looking into this, and while the vast majority of users do not hit their limit, I suppose if somebody is willing to spread the "like" love, then why stop them... to a degree. The limit has been bumped to 60 for the time being.
  13. 1 point
    tsujin

    Brand new at this

    I'm in the same boat. I just followed the directions exactly to start fermenting, but after reading up on these forums I'm planning on letting the beer both ferment and condition a bit longer than the guidelines. My plan is to try a recipe as-is next batch, then try the same recipe again with a little tinkering for my third batch.
  14. 1 point
    I keep my LBK in a cooler with frozen bottles (I haven't moved to a temp controlled fridge yet). The thermometer on my LBK helps me to monitor the temps from day one. That way I know my temps are staying rock steady at 65 (like RickBeer mentioned). My cooler is small to the point of just being able to hold an LBK and 2 frozen 16 oz water bottles. That's why I came up with this thermometer setup, because I can't see a stick on thermometer placed anywhere on my LBK that would be useful. My setup is far from perfect, however, I am able to craft some really nice beers. It does make reading the wort temp stupid simple. And if you ask my wife, she'll tell you to be certain to make things simple for me!
  15. 1 point
    Day 1 - 65 Day 2 - 65 Day 6 - 65 Day 11 - 65 Day X - 65... Perfect beer - 65 degrees EVERY DAY.
  16. 1 point
    If you don't want to waste beer, follow the 3-4 rules. 4 weeks carbonating and conditioning, temp 70 or above.
  17. 1 point
    I like the idea of putting one beer in a plastic bottle (740ml MrB bottle) that came with my kit and put the rest in glass bottles. Now, does it matter if its the first bottle or the last bottle of my batch when I use the plastic for carbo testing? I don't know if the last bottle, maybe cause it it has more yeast, would carbo up faster than the rest (I read this in someone thread).
  18. 1 point
    Taking the temperature after peak fermentation is over is really a waste of time - when it matters most has already happened. It is likely the exact same temp as the ambient air around it. At peak fermentation it can be 6 -8, or more, degrees higher. While Bill's way does work, an aquarium temp strip (or the ones that Mr. Beer sells) is more than adequate. For those brewing in a hot climate, you likely want a REMOTE thermometer that reads on the outside of the chamber you use (i.e. cooler, fermentation fridge) what the temp is on the inside (from the probe taped to the side of the fermenter covered with a cloth to insulate it from the air). My temp controlled freezer shows that I'm at 64 degree wort temp right now, and it runs the freezer when it climbs 1/2 degee C above that.
  19. 1 point
    At this point just let it go the full 3 weeks. Do your alterations of the LBK before your next batch. If you have a digital food grade thermometer (with a stainless steel temp probe) you can drill a hole (slightly smaller than the width of the probe) in the LBK lid and push the probe through so that it is at least 2" into the wort. Otherwise, get a stick on aquarium thermometer and adhere it to the LBK below the fluid line.
  20. 1 point
    Cuban IPA

    Yeast?

    Thanks everyone for the feedback! I will stop perving my beer now like Sabres032 said and relax LOL. Its just my first brew and I am excited to see what happens everyday. I bet that when I start doing my second brew, I won't be as pervy as I am now LOL.
  21. 1 point
    scouterbill

    LME, boiling hops and color.

    I've read that you want to use 1/4 to 1/3 of your lme/dme for the bulk of the boil and add the remainder the last 10 minutes. That will help keep the color close to what you want.
  22. 1 point
    RickBeer

    Priming Rule of Thumbs

    The Mr. Beet Beer sugar chart shows you amounts for many sizes (see below). I only used table sugar before I started batch priming, a Mr. Beer sugar measurer makes it easy. Mr. Beer sugar measure Yes, carbonation varies by style. And amounts vary depending on the highest temp your brew hit. www.screwybrewer.com has a calculator.
  23. 1 point
    Nickfixit

    Beer Taste

    I don't know about a twang in the beer, but after a couple I can't help adopting a strong country accent.
  24. 1 point
    Squeegeethree

    Beer Taste

    Controlling temp to stay on the lower side of the yeast has improved my brewing more than anything else.
  25. 1 point
    just bottled the bourbon oak vanilla cherry porter, tried a sample and oh wow! the bourbon oak is really tasty strong! I remember jim Johnson sayin a little oak goes a long ways, oh boy! this brew will have to condition for at least 4 to 6 months, but its gonna be good! by then I might be able to use it as cologne.........
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