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Showing most liked content on 02/10/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 likes
    The Booster is completely optional, but will add a little more body than just sugar alone due to the dextrins in contains. But as AnthonyC said, if what you are doing is working, there's not much reason to change it. BTW, I'm so glad you enjoy the kit. Designing it is one of my proudest achievements here at Mr. Beer so far. And the feedback we got at the Brew Fests we've attended has been really great. We usually run out of the HRB before anything else at those events. lol.
  2. 4 likes
    Thanks for "liking" this post @dale hihn. My review after it's aged for 7 months in bottles is......TERRIFIC! It definitely has a bourbon taste to it, which I love. It has a sweetness to it, but not too sweet, and definitely smooth. A beer you can enjoy and sip. I'm proud for my first round. I already know what I'm going to do different and I'll be making this a 5 gallon batch. Should be ready for Christmas 2017.
  3. 4 likes
    Received my kit today.... one small problem..... its missing a pack of DME smooth and the muslin bag EDIT:: Called MRB Customer Service.. Talked with a Very nice guy Named Josh (could it be one of our very own moderators?) and he is shipping the missing items! No muss no fuss! THIS is why i will always be a MRB customer.
  4. 3 likes
    You can also buy our kits and refills on Amazon and there are some available on Shop.ca. Or you can use our store locator to find stores near you with our products. We are currently working on better shipping options for Canada so hopefully those prices will go down in the future. http://www.mrbeer.com/store-locator
  5. 3 likes
    try the powerful patriot ale recipe if you like yuengling... Pretty close
  6. 2 likes
    Yes, we have been looking into something like this. We have a LOT of customers in Canada and we definitely want to keep them so we are working on ways to get our products to you cheaper and faster. But this is a slow process, especially in our current state of expansion. But trust me when I say that we haven't forgotten about you guys.
  7. 2 likes
    We do apologize for the inconvenience, and we are aware of the problem, but unfortunately (as you note) we don't have any control over what UPS charges. Sorry about that!
  8. 2 likes
    You can use a refractometer to determine final gravity. It just needs to be used in conjuction with a hydrometer for a period of time to determine the wort correction factor of your individual refractometer. I use mine to determine FG most of the time and only check about every 5th or 6th batch against it when bottling. Below is a site that has a calculator for using the refractometer and a link to the spreadsheet that is used to determine the wort correction factor. http://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/
  9. 2 likes
  10. 2 likes
    Thanks for the responses, men. As a side note, I suppose I'll eventually start getting into checking OG/FG and determining ABV, but for now it's not that important to me. I'm still just trying to get my techniques down before moving into "mad scientist mode" and customizing things to see what works for me and what doesn't. As some like to say, I'm chasing taste, not ABV. It doesn't matter to me if the final product is 4.5% or 6.5% (unless, of course, it's something like an Imperial Stout or Barleywine, then it needs to have that extra punch ), as long as it tastes good.
  11. 2 likes
    Can of Guinness and a shot of bourbon??
  12. 2 likes
    I actually toasted these chips at 250 for about 10 minutes, added to water for 24 hours, then transferred them to my whiskey for 72 hours. I'll skip the water part next time and probably toasting them. Although a great bourbon flavor, it was missing more oaky taste. Hope that helps!
  13. 2 likes
    Just wanted to post links in case someone was reading this and thinking about picking up a hydrometer or a refractometer. Our hydrometer can be found here: http://www.mrbeer.com/hydrometer. Refractometers are here: http://www.mrbeer.com/accessories/brix-refractometer The refractometers only need a drop to work, unlike the relatively large sample needed for a hydrometer, and you don't need to adjust for temperature. The downside, though, is that you need an online calculator to determine FG with a refractometer, so the hydrometer is easier in that respect.
  14. 2 likes
    @HoppySmile! I found the perfect farmhouse ale recipe that might appeal to both the saison and Will Ferrell fans alike: https://beerandbrewing.com/VNu-9CcAACcA8rc0/article/more-cowbell-farmhouse-ale-recipe
  15. 2 likes
    I was doing a second vent of the bottles when I got a little over-zealous with one and foam came up into the cap. Well, I wasn't about to let it sit like that for six months; I might as well hold out a "Free Lunch for Bacteria" sign. So I poured it and am drinking it. I gotta say, for a room-temperature brew that was bottled four days ago, it's really friggin' good! I can't wait to see how these develop.
  16. 2 likes
    Well Round 1 is Bottled and going to sit for a few weeks and condition. I been busy at work so I gave it an Extra week to ferment, I did not get any fruity taste and it tasted like flat beer when I did my testing so Temps were all good and I could even taste a little kick even though it is the American Lager batch. I think I will be ordering another set of Bottle's Cause next week I want to Start my Diablo batch. Will let everyone one know how my first batch tasted after conditioning Larry Man 1 week so far in Bottling stage and I am holding back from the Temptation of putting one in the Fridge that teaser taste test was good but I need to wait longer next batch of Brew is fermenting now thanks all I am holding back and I scored today while out shopping we stopped at this outlet store low and behold I found mrbeer Full kits for a decent price nasically bought 2 full deluxe kits for the price of one so I am up to 3 and ready to rock and roll
  17. 2 likes
    I will actually be experimenting with variations like this throughout the summer. I have some ideas for sarsparilla, ginger, orange, cherry, and cola. Stay tuned...
  18. 1 like
    I have a few questions about the Mr.Beer recipes from the Mr.Beer website 1. When it says "Recipe includes" are all those ingredients in a package that you buy from mr.beer? 2. Can you replace all those ingredients from a brewing supply store? Im from Canada and can get the refills but shipping to Canada from Mr.Beer.com is insaine so if I can substitute items then all the best
  19. 1 like
    Is there any thoughts of a Mr.Beer.ca site for the 38 Million beer loving Canadians up here? us Canucks are kinda known for enjoying a frosty beer from time to time?
  20. 1 like
    The extract isn't a issue I can get refills up here...it is more the Recipes I want to make are the issue. If I can replace the ingredients from a brewery supply store then awesome. its not Mr.Beers fault but shipping across the border is silly (this includes amazon) here is my issue...see attachment
  21. 1 like
    I will be making a detour to pickup on my way home. Not sure if I can find an I.V for this one tho.......ha ha. Cheers Hoppy!
  22. 1 like
    I bottled my American Burleywine on Sunday after three weeks in the LBK. This evening I was looking for something where I have them stored and noticed a very thin layer of foam around the top of the beer in each one. I'd never noticed that before in any of my previous brews, so I felt one of the bottles (they're in PET bottles). It was hard as a rock. So I pulled them out, and sunuvabitch, every single one had trub in the bottom. And THAT'S why people recommend you use a hydrometer. For the folks that are new to the hobby, what happened was the beer wasn't finished fermenting in the LBK when I bottled it. If I'd checked it with a hydrometer I'd have known for sure if it was done or not. As far as rectifying the situation, what I've done so far is to open each bottle just a little to let the built-up CO2 vent out. I'll probably do this again once things settle down. Any other recommendations from the brewpros on here? And will this negatively affect the finished product...aside from the excess sediment that'll be in each bottle? I guess I can look on the bright side: if I'd bottled it in 12oz bottles like I'd originally planned I'd probably have bombs-a-plenty going off.
  23. 1 like
    probably would have to drink it sooner. I thot of smoking my malt on my smoker outside as an experiment
  24. 1 like
    I would like the Spiced Rum Oak Amber Ale pumped in intravenously! Yum! Love the sound of that one.
  25. 1 like
    that looks inviting! and I may try a 2 gal. version to see how it come sout, but "I've got to have more cowbell"
  26. 1 like
    From my understanding of the refractometer, for what I plan to use it for - determining if fermentation is complete - the numbers themselves aren't important. What is important is that they're the same when measured 24-48 hours apart. If they don't change, fermentation is done. If that's incorrect, please let me know.
  27. 1 like
    @MRB Tim, it looks like the gauge/display on the one in your link has Brix on the left and gravity on the right. That's how mine is. I read OG directly off the gauge on mine. @Shrike, I don't think you can use a refractometer on beer, only wort. ETA: OK, in researching that statement, there seems to be a way to use the refractometer to measure and calculate FG, although the by and large consensus is OG only. I'll have to research it more to see if it makes sense for me to do it that way. I kinda like to have a hydro sample to take my reading from and then sip as I'm bottling.
  28. 1 like
    <decloak> I had suggested "Tabitha". Perhaps someone could set up a vote to give the recipe a name. <cloak> (note........corrected the spelling)
  29. 1 like
    Thanks, Tim! I might just skip the hydrometer and get the refractometer. OG and ABV isn't that important to me, but being able to verify that fermentation is complete is. With two gallon batches I like that the refractometer uses a lot smaller sample size. ETA: Just ordered it, and got free shipping on my entire order as a bonus. Nice!
  30. 1 like
    Mr. Beer's American Burleywine should come with directions that really suit that style of beer. That is a BIG recipe and it requires some special care. Although this won't prevent bottle bombs Shrike, be aware that the AB recipe should condition for a solid year. I've made that one twice now. The first time I rushed and started popping the bottles at 4-6mths and it was nowhere near ready. The second time I made it I stored it "out of sight, out of mind" for a year and it was phenomenal... hands down my favorite Mr. B recipe. It's a very expensive recipe, so I just want you to get your money's worth. ???
  31. 1 like
    New brewers need to read BDawg62's response carefully. Every bottle you make should have trub in it. You put sugar (or drops which are sugar) in the bottle, then the beer. The yeast eats the sugar, and creates trub, just like it does when you ferment in the LBK. When you pour your beer (always pour, do not drink out of the bottle), pour gently, leaving the last 1/4 inch in the bottle. You can drink it, but it may clean out your system a bit. Wheat beers may have less trub because the yeast stays suspended in the beer and it remains cloudy, by design. Every PET bottle should be rock hard within as few as a few days, or as long as two weeks. That is also normal. Venting the bottles might be a non-issue, or you may end up with low carbed beers when they are finally done bottle conditioning, which on this brew is quite a while. 3 weeks should allow every recipe on this site to be done. A hydrometer would allow you to verify that, and to determine the true ABV of the brew. There is no bottle test that tells you that fermentation was not finished or was finished.
  32. 1 like
    Shrike, Trub in the bottom is very normal for bottle conditioned beers. In fact you wouldn't have carbonation without it. I have also had bottles with a thin layer of foam on top during the first few days of conditioning. Definitely always use a hydrometer on high gravity beers, I had a Belgian Golden Strong that sat in secondary for 5 months before it stopped dropping so I could bottle it. Remember alcohol is poisonous to the yeast and not all of the yeast makes it to the finish line so to speak. So the few that are strong and tolerant take longer to complete the task.
  33. 1 like
    @MRB Josh R, do you know the name of the recipe that comes with this kit?
  34. 1 like
    Really no problem. Doubt there would have been a bacterial infection. I've had PET bottles vent on their own (bottles release excess pressure) and had beer puddles on the floor. Now I condition my bottles on a tray to catch any beer that vents. Funny thing is that I've had bottles lose 1/3 of their content, yet remain rock hard, and taste wonderful even after 3 or 4 months (sometimes more). Never have any of those suffered an infection. And, all of my beers have some sediment after conditioning. Also odd, is that I use way less sugar than MB recommends and often ferment for more that 21 days, so I am sure primary fermentation is through, and the carbonation is simply due to the added sugar in each bottle. The old Winter Dark Ale often did this and now I find that the Churchill's vents too (so far 4 of 11 bottles). Can't explain why they are so pressurized as to vent.
  35. 1 like
    The last few times I used the smoked Cherrywood I let those brews condition for months... they are still conditioning. Maybe that's why the taste has faded.