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Showing most liked content on 12/28/2017 in all areas

  1. 9 likes
    Hello to all the individuals that got a Mr. Beer kit for Christmas. Welcome to what could become a very rewarding hobby for you. I know that each and everyone of you are just dying to brew this thing up and get to drinking your very own beer. Here is a little advice; WAIT AT LEAST 1 DAY. Why you may ask? Well if you wait 1 day and spend that time on this forum you will brew much better beer than if you brew it today without doing some reading first. Very few people who brew up a beer kit for the first time actually stick with it. That is because it is relatively simple if you know what you are doing. Without reading on this forum and elsewhere, you won't know what you are doing. Look for a post from @RickBeer and read through all of the stickies on his signature line. If nothing else this will give you a better start than without it. There are a lot of people on this forum who are more than willing to help so please ask questions. Chances are your first attempt won't turn out that great but then again neither did most of our first beers. Cheers and Welcome, Big Dawg
  2. 5 likes
    The maple syrup won't add any flavor to the beer at all and it would be a waste of maple syrup because that stuff isn't cheap. Priming only adds Co2 and the amount of sugar added won't add any flavor to your beer, especially to a stout. Also, like honey, the amount of sugar contained in the syrup can vary (this measurement is called "Brix"). Unless you're using a refractometer to find out the actual brix of your syrup in solution to find out the amount needed, then you could have gushers or your beer could be under-carbonated. For priming, always use standard cane or corn sugar. It's cheap, effective, and easy to use. All flavoring sugars should be added in the fermentation stage (after 5 days of primary fermentation will give more flavor). Save your maple syrup for this stage.
  3. 5 likes
    did you use any grain? on one of the other forums from about a year or 2 ago I recall the dreaded gusher bug was being discussed. a commonality between brewers at that time was using English chocolate malt grain either for steeping or in an all grain batch. while the 'gusher bug' is one of those headaches that no one can really pin the cause down with any certainty, the thinking was that the grain may have been wet when harvested allowing some goobie to grow on its surface. perhaps this was the case? or perhaps too much sugar when carbing? or.. it wasn't really done fermenting when you bottled. the yeast continued to munch below your fg and while not enough for a bottle bomb, the co2 level was high enough to cause a gusher. most of my gushers have been in darker ales. I open my plastic bottles over a large empty salad bowl so that if it happens I can just set the bottle down in it and collect any gush.. which settles into lovely beer. I also open the lid very very slowly to bleed off co2. if gush starts to form I stop. rest. then open a little more. yes. I have a problem. I like beer too much to see it wasted. I'm also cheap.
  4. 4 likes
    I was going to brew this one back in early September, but things just happened, and brewing took a back seat. I was was happy to get back at it tonight. My first partial grain mash, and I liked it. Not much harder than the regular recipes. I changed the yeast to White Labs WLP820. I liter of starter (drained off most of the liquid) and one “pitch pack”. I know lagers are slow, to ferment, and the reviews of this yeast are that it is very slow, hence the starter. Cooled it it down to 62 degrees before pitching. I would have preferred a little colder, but was out of ice OG was 1.049 Now in the fermentation chamber at 55 degrees. Going to keep it there for about three weeks. Then raise it slowly to 65 for a di-acetal rest for a few days. I will then rack to a secondary vessel, and cold lager for 4 weeks at 34 degrees. Then bottle and go from there. Should be be ready ato drink around the middle of March.
  5. 3 likes
    Try and keep the wort towards the lower end of the recommended temperature range. And welcome to the hobby!
  6. 3 likes
    to me the only definition of a beer gone 'bad' is one in which they got an infection like e coli that made the beer unsafe to drink. if you have even the slightest hygienic practices while brewing you are already doing way more than they ever did prior to the 1700s. what typically happens is the beer is exposed to something that makes off flavors. off flavors can be masked. in all my adult years ive only had one truly 'skunked' beer from prolonged garage storage in Michigan over years of time. it was awful. ive only had one with a lacto infection that I covered up by adding tang orange powder to the glass. ive only had one batch of wine that tasted like wet dog fur smells or like soggy cardboard from oxidation. to that I added soda and still drank it. a guy at work used to brew with his dad as a kid... using hose water for the wort... and then they wondered why every batch came out tasting like Band-Aids. between the off flavors imparted by the hose, and the chloramine from the municipal tap water it is no wonder they didn't like their beer. rather than diagnosing what was going wrong they just gave up.
  7. 2 likes
    You got it. Follow the basics and you'll do fine. As far as the Shiner Bock, there are a few folks who may be able to suggest a recipe for you. Welcome to the hobby and the forum!
  8. 2 likes
    Christmas day I Cracked a couple Porter's and Long Play IPA's I made 9/16, they were absolutely delicious!! Out of each batch I make I set a six pack aside for special occasions that age for 8 months to a year. They do get better with age luckily my cellar stays cool all year long.
  9. 1 like
    It is not accurate but it is consistantly off (or at least mine is). I use Beersmith's refractometer calculator and I am off by .2 gravity points compared to a hydrometer. Much smaller sample and for me it is close enough.
  10. 1 like
    Once alcohol has been produced, a refractometer is no longer accurate. You can use a refractometer adjustment calculator to get close. https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/
  11. 1 like
    Besides the flashlight, try sniffing around the edge of the lid while there is still foam on the beer surface. It should smell good if you like beery hop smells.
  12. 1 like
  13. 1 like
    ALL the cool kids do it...come on, look at it, looooook at it.....ooooooooo, do it again
  14. 1 like
    Is it bad that I see another LBK in the store for only $10 and am thinking to myself I should just go ahead and get another batch started now, then ultimately be able to rotate kegs and keep a more constant supply? I have an extra cabinet for it... hmmm Kal
  15. 1 like
    push comes to shove you can take some cling wrap and a rubber band. sanitize the cling wrap side that will be down with a quick spritz of star san solution. put it over the opening and rubber band it down. be sure you don't block any co2 ports on the top of the lbk. all the lid does is keep goobies from falling into your beer. I would do an open ferment before I spent 30 dollars to ship a piece of 50 cents worth of plastic. that's just crazy.
  16. 1 like
    I will say a prayer for your lost beer tonight. Its hard to lose a loved one so unexpectedly and then to watch it helplessly while its in your tender grasp... shame. Im sorry this happened to you