Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Aeration before fermentation = good Aeration after fermentation = bad
  2. 4 points
    That is why I am happy with the LBKs I can move them around. And while I have never done a 5 gal between 2, I have made several Cooper's 6 gal recipes between 3 LBKs and tweaked each differently.
  3. 4 points
    I vacuum seal them and keep them in the fridge. The longest I've kept some has been about five months. They seemed just fine when used.
  4. 3 points
    or you can use whirlfloc in the last 10 minutes of the boil if doing a full boil. i dont care about clarity so i stopped using them. if it has alcohol and doesnt taste like butt i'm in.
  5. 3 points
    I guess that's where the "Stir Vigorously" comes into play.
  6. 3 points
    dang it @hotrod3539...ya beat me to it.
  7. 3 points
    Oxygen for the yeast is very good so that they can do what they do, so aerating the wort is good. However, air after fermentation is bad.
  8. 2 points
    So irish moss is about clarity in grain brews. Most of my brews in the last 6 months have been pitch black so that's not much of a concern for them. I do have a couple in process I probably could have tried it in. I will pick some up with the next order. Thanks ! And thanks all for the 5 gallon information too. Mark
  9. 2 points
    I added 4 oz. of Carapils and .5 oz. of Liberty hops @ flame-out. I bottled it on January 4th. It smelled awesome. It will be a couple of months until I try it. Can't wait to see how it turns out. Your recipe sounds good too.
  10. 2 points
    1 x 6.5 gallon food grade plastic bucket 1 lid with rubber gasket 1 spade bit and drill to make a hole in lid. 1 plastic elbow / pipe fitting thing to fit blow off hose, and the end screw thing to secure it... i can post pics later .. dont know the technical terms for these things. they look like this. then you need the nut/washer to fit and a rubber washer to secure it to the lid. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-2-in-Polyethylene-Drip-Irrigation-Elbow/50030692 OR you can keep it simple. buy 2 lbks. split the wort evenly between the two. i think they will be a little more full than your normal batch size with 2.5 gallons but if you dont get a super aggressive ferment it should be ok. OR: go to walmart. buy 2 x 3 gallon food grade beverage bottles. the blue ones... check the plastic type . you want type 1 or type 2 i think for food safe. you can then evenly split the 5 gallons of wort in two of these. the downside... two takes up more space in a chiller box. for the bevvie bottle you will need to pick up a couple rubber stoppers that are drilled for an air lock. you can be as cheap as you want as long as you dont compromise on sanitation. you can ferment in a large pot if you want with a sanitized towel over it (open fermentation) but then you risk naturally occurring yeast getting into your wort or other things. my first 5 gallon batches were NB kits.. i did them in food grade buckets. just give your wort enough headspace. if you see krausen and crud being burped through the airlock you will need to take measures to ensure your blow off airlock doesnt get clogged. ive almost had fermenter lids blow completely off from build up of co2 due to a clogged airlock port. ive also had to leave a lid cracked open on one side while the fermenter gushed for a day like a volcano of krausen.
  11. 2 points

    Help with cider taste please

    interesting that he can detect 05. ive always found it to be extremely clean. some ppl have hypersensitive taste buds i guess. i can detect things my wife cant like banana esters. me: ah! a slight hint of banana esters, with a touch of spicy pepper and subtle clove notes! this balances the stone fruitiness nicely! (turns to wife) what say you? wife: it tastes like beer.
  12. 2 points
    Irish Moss is a seaweed derived fining agent used by many brewers to help make a clear beer without the need for a filter, and to prevent chill haze. Irish Moss accelerates protein coagulation during the end of the boil which helps prevent chill haze. Add 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons to the last 15 minutes of the boil.
  13. 2 points
    So tell me about this Irish Moss you speak of and how it's used. Thanks. edit: Oh hell, I looked it up. Man I hate being all responsible....
  14. 2 points
    After my first batch of lock Stock and Barrel Stout I had several 1/2 packets of ingredients. I kept them in ziplock bags in the fridge for a couple months and just started another batch. I'll let you know if that was the wrong thing to in about a year.
  15. 2 points
    Thanks for the replies. I currently have 2 LBKs and another different fermenter I bought from Mr Beer as well so I could split up a 5 gallon batch easy enough. Somehow I was under the impression aeration was a negative but maybe that was in reference to a later part of the process like bottling? So it looks to me like I mostly need a bigger pot.
  16. 1 point
    To add to Mr. @hotrod3539 has stated, Irish Moss is sold on Mr. Beer's Site, but note that it works best with partial mash recipes. Per the folks at Mr. Beer, it isn't necessary for non-grain recipes. If you use it with their partial mash recipes, use 1/2 teaspoon, and at the end of the boil, and based on my stupidity, I'd recommend only one bag to start with (a little goes a LOOOOOOOONG way)
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Or maybe to adopt someone else's kids....you know, an agreement that they are yours only when you need them
  19. 1 point

    Help with cider taste please

    green apple / cider = too hot fermentation. if you are drawing samples from the lbk you are likely pulling off trub with the sample. trub tastes like crud. yeasty, sometimes maybe sour or just plain off. you dont drink trub. that is yeast poopy. ambient temp of 72f means at peak fermentation your yeast was at about 79-82f inside the lbk. way too hot. too hot = stressed yeast = cider. (among other off flavors) know your yeast. coopers yeast or the mr beer yeast under the lid ... and most ale yeasts want your ambient temp to be about 58-62f for the first few days of active fermentation. when they get busy eating, the inside temps can be up to 10 degrees higher than ambient or 68-72f for a really vigorous ferment. i had always shot for keeping my ambient temps no warmer than 67f in the days when i did not have a chiller box. i never got cider. lager yeast is not ale yeast. lager yeasts want colder temps to ferment. they are bottom feeders , not top feeders like ale yeast. i dont make lagers because to me lager yeast is too much of a diva. ale yeast is more easy going and more forgiving of mistakes. get an ice chest / cooler. buy a submersible cheap aquarium thermometer with a probe. make about 4 1 liter bottles of ice. put your lbk in the cooler. tape the probe to the outside of the lbk just below the wort level. tape a small piece of cardboard or reflectix insullation over the probe to help it record the inside temp more than the ambient. put one ice bottle in the cooler away from the lbk. close the cooler lid on the probe wire with the digital display set on the lid. walk away for about 4 hours. come back and note the temp. too cold? use less water in the ice bottle. too hot? add more ice bottles. check it about every 2 hours until you can gauge how far a certain volume of ice will drop your wort temperature... and how long it will last. in my experience, once the wort hits pitch temperature a liter of ice will keep my ferment at about 64f ambient for about 18 hrs average. there will be minor fluctuations in temp. thats fine. when i get up from bed, i just swap out the ice. temp control is most important during the first 3 days of fermentation. temperatures contribute to ester development which makes flavors. some you want. some you dont. again, know your yeast. remember this too... your samples should never be used to judge the final outcome before it gets there. beer matures with age. a bottling sample will likely taste a world apart from the final product.
  20. 1 point
    I am planning on brewing this one next adding a little Pilsner + Vienna malt, carapils, Hallertau Mittelfruh and Mangrove Jack's M76 Bavarian lager yeast, but that K-97 recipe sounds like a winner to me. How's that going @John K.?
  21. 1 point
    I've always recommended "Tabitha" https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Beer-Brewmax-Gallon-Homebrewing/dp/B01M8MRANX/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1515465230&sr=8-27&keywords=mr.+beer All Mr. Beer equipment/product, and it's only $10 more than what they price the fermenter by itself. Comes with a nice recipe kit and everything except glass bottles (capper, caps, etc). I've used it for 5 gallon kits, and triple a Mr. Beer recipe It's been documented on here that you can split a 5 gallon recipe into two LBK's. I did it....once. Only once. Then I got the Mr. Beer 6 gallon and never looked back.