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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Tasted the 1st one of these beers and I can say even at 4 weeks that this is one of the best I've made. I'm impressed, this beer is plain ol delicious!
  2. 1 point
    Shrike

    cold yeast need advice

  3. 1 point
    epete28

    Stout sale cancelled early?

    I got the email too. When I got home from work and saw it gone, I had a "WTF?" moment too. It's all good though.
  4. 1 point
    D Kristof

    Attempt #2: Weissbier

    Patience BDawg. Don't forget patience. Too many try to rush through the process. Too many try to skip steps in learning the process. (editors note: dkristof1007 is trying to emulate RickBeer and simultaneously poke the bear)
  5. 1 point
    D Kristof

    Mix IPA and Stout?

    Wow. WOw. WOW! Eat a Snickers, Rick! You're being a real buzzkill. 😝
  6. 1 point
    DEFbrewer

    Mix IPA and Stout?

    So it could be a fiendishly hopped Irish American Stout IPA that is a rich, dark brew with a fiery amber color and displaying a blend of floral spice and stonefruit and chocolate aromas with intense mouthfeel and roasted bitter character and dry finish. Not even MrB has attempted this. Good luck and keep good notes for us. Brew on!
  7. 1 point
    zorak1066

    cold yeast need advice

    yeast are living things. imagine if you just spent a week locked in a freezer and then jumped into a tub of hot water. thermal shock is a real thing. you want the yeast to gradually acclimate to both gravity and temp of the wort. ideally your pitching temp and your yeast temp should be not more than 15 f different i think i read somewhere. an example of a less than optimal pitch: you rehydrate the yeast in water of 98f. by the time you go to pitch it has cooled to say 85f. your wort temp might be for example 65f. 85-65 = 20f difference. not exactly optimal. dry yeast has come a long way though in improvements. you might get a little thermal shock die off if there is such a thing, but surely it will be insignificant. i put my dry yeast on the counter when i start brewing. if i'm just tossing it in, by the time i'm ready for it the yeast is at room temp which is just fine. yeast are incredibly hard to kill accidentally. the more common homebrewer 'mistakes' merely slow it down because it has to reproduce to a level sufficient to do the job. you get more lag time. or you piss them off and they pee out goofy esters.
  8. 1 point
    RickBeer

    Boil malt extracts?

    Nope. HME is always added to the water after removal from heat, and is never boiled. Mr. Beer's LME pouches are done in the same manner, UNLESS you're doing a hop boil, in which case you need WORT to boil your hops. Sometimes that's simply steeped grain water, sometimes steeped grain water with LME, and sometimes just LME. It's fine to boil LME (or DME), the only impact is the maillard effect, which darkens the wort. Bulk LME or DME should ALWAYS be boiled! Just like steeped grain water (after removal of the grains). Why? To kill bugs. Grains aren't sanitary, and bulk DME / LME may not be depending on how it is stored. I buy bulk LME at my LHBS from a 55 gallon drum, it pours out of a big handle into my non-sanitary container. The handle has gooped LME all over it, which of course is likely growing things. Boiling kills all that. When adding DME or LME to a pot of water, the pot should ALWAYS BE REMOVED FROM THE STOVE. And, there's no reason that it be boiling before adding, simply hot to dissolve the LME or DME (or in DME's case, some use cold water and stir while heating) and then boiled. If you add LME to a pot on a hot stove, you can scorch it, and that batch is toast. Ask me how I know...
  9. 1 point
    Thanks Why! I've been getting most of my grains from the LHBS -- they have an excellent selection of all the BSG Craft grains including Weyermann (my favorite), Simpson's, Rahr, Crisp, Briess, Chateau, etc.. As for this recipe, I think the Dark Candi Sugar, Safbrew Abbaye yeast, and grains just really work well with the Bewitched AA, one of the best Mr. Beer HMEs for my tastes.?
  10. 1 point
    JoshR

    priming with DME vs sugar

    Yes, there are differences, but these differences are EXTREMELY minimal and cannot be detected without precise measurements. I prefer fermenting maltose over sucrose or fructose because that's what beer is made of.
  11. 1 point
    MiniYoda

    priming with DME vs sugar

    Splenda counts? DIET BEER!!!!!!!!!!! What about Sweet 'N Low or SweetOne (sorry RickBeer.......two shots of scotch and a leinenkugel. I just had to)
  12. 1 point
    Stroomer420

    priming with DME vs sugar

    I never said there wasn't a difference...just said I use table sugar and batch prime...
  13. 1 point
    RickBeer

    StarSan inquiry

    You make it in any amount, in the ratio they describe, which is 1 ounce per 5 gallons. There are 6 TEASPOONS in an ounce. So, if you want to use 1 gallon of water, you would use 1.2 teaspoons, or 1.25 since you probably have a 1 teaspoon and a 1/4 teaspoon. I store mine in a 1 gallon milk container. You can store it in a bucket, just watch for condensation on the lid molding. You can use it until the pH hits 3 or higher. Without a pH meter or strips, figure about 4 - 6 weeks. Since that gallon costs around $0.10, I toss mine after 6 weeks. Remember it is acid based. I had a nice pair of chrome tongs I used, that I would plop in the bucket my whole brewing day. They de-chromed. I got them replaced by the manufacturer, but now I just dunk them as needed. Ideally, stainless tools would be better. Don't fear the foam! Foam is good. Never rinse it off.
  14. 1 point
    Big Sarge

    Adding Hops at different times

    Has anyone dry hopped with as little as 0.25 oz of hops, particularly in a lager? I'm looking to add some Hallertauer Mittlefreu to my Helles Bock seasonal for a subtle aroma. I don't want to waste a quarter ounce unnecessarily, but also don't want a half ounce to overpower the beer. I'll add it during week three of fermentation.
  15. 1 point
    C-ya

    Flaked Corn

    Aww, come on, man! This is a great beer! I have no clue how much corn is actually in it, but it is SMOOTH! Local micro near me called Burn 'Em makes it. In case the picture doesn't show, here ya go: http://burnembrewing.com/wp-content/themes/burnem2/photos/kreamedcorn-big.jpg
  16. 1 point
    JoshR

    Flaked Corn

    6-row is the best for this purpose - even better than 2-row (malted wheat is great, too), but in our recipes any basic 2-row pale malt will do (pilsen is typically a little lower in enzymes than regular 2-row). There is the possibility of us bringing in some 6-row and selling it with the flaked malts already mixed in. 6-row is the best for diastatic power, but it is much lower quality in terms of flavor contribution, but this can be a good thing if you're trying to bring out the flavors of certain flaked grains, such as rye.
  17. 1 point
    AnthonyC

    Flaked Corn

    I knew that one was coming!
  18. 1 point
    HoppySmile!

    Flaked Corn

    i use corn flakes, not the kelloggs brand, mainly the off brands you find at the dollar store, plus they go great with milk too!!
  19. 1 point
    BDawg62

    Flaked Corn

    AC, Flaked Corn, Wheat, Oats etc don't have the enzymes needed to convert the starches to sugar. If you are brewing an all grain batch there will be plenty of enzymes in the base grain you use. If you are doing a partial mash or steeping grains add an equal amount of 2 row or 6 row to convert the sugars. If you don't the starches will make your beer very cloudy and unstable. Dawg
  20. 1 point
    Nickfixit

    Low temp fermentation question

    With MR B beers you are usually ok but the only other reason to get a hydrometer is to check if the fermentation is incomplete. I don't use one often, but Rick Beer says I should - lol. Sometimes the fermentation will not complete as planned but in my experience if one uses the MR B recipes and leaves them 3 weeks this is very rare. In such a case Rick is right, if you had used a hydrometer you would know for sure. If you are using grain, using a hydrometer is a confirmation that your extraction of sugars from the grain went as planned and finally what amount of it was converted to alcohol. Generally I think the Mr B Partial mash recipes provide more additions to flavor than ABV so still not the same burning need for the hydrometer as all grain. However, using one does not hurt and the practice/habit will put you in a good position if you migrate to all grain. So it is up to you
  21. 1 point
    Nickfixit

    Coming out from Hibernation

    Time will do you a good benefit of developing nice mellow flavors and getting rid of off tastes. However, time also reduces the freshness of hop taste and aroma and that of some other flavorings. So you will see written that hoppy beers are best drunk young to get the best hop aroma and taste. I have experienced this from what I brewed as I usually sample the beer as soon as it is carbonated, at intervals from sometimes as low as a week to a month or more for first sample. Then I spread out the consumption over months, interspersing a variety of styles in the drinking queue from my pipeline. The longer you leave the beers, I think the better the rounded flavors and maltiness develops. So you have to try tasting at different points and see at what point the beer suits your taste. For example with one vanilla porter I made the vanilla seemed quite harsh until 4 months had passed when it was much nicer. I think from his comments, Rick Beer favors maltiness, so for him especially, longer maturation times will bring out that characteristic. You will have to experiment, guided by the comments in the forum and find what is your optimum. I will say that I do also enjoy the variation in tastes as my beers mature, so at different times they are like somewhat different brews although just changed over time.
  22. 1 point
    MRB Tim

    Coming out from Hibernation

    I hear you, but the trouble we run into with "that oughta be in the instructions" is that if we put everything about making beer in the instructions, they would be 200 pages long, while many people already don't read the 6- page foldout. It's kind of a catch-22 and it's a surprisingly difficult balancing act to do the most good for the most new brewers. As @RickBeer mentioned, the newest set of instructions will be clearer. Please keep the feedback coming, we're always looking to improve.
  23. 1 point
    HoppySmile!

    Adding Hops at different times

    which brings me to a story when I was 2 years old. my parents told me I drank a frozen orange juice can of paint thinner thinking it was orange juice. my uncle would soak his paint brushes in an old frozen orange juice can and store it upon the top of an upright freezer in the garage. my aunt, uncle and parents to this day cannot figure out how I climbed up to the top of that freezer to get to that can of "orange juice"? needless to say, I had my stomach pumped out at the hospital that day. thank God I dnt remember any of that day!! remind around xmas time, I got another story of ill ingestion during the holidays. and when I hear these stories i'm amzed how i'm still alive........Thank You Mr. Beer!!! I can finally ingest something that won't kill me today!!!
  24. 1 point
    JoshR

    lager conditioning question

    3-4 weeks for carbonation at around 65 - 70F. Then put them back in lager temps for conditioning. The basic rule of thumb is to condition at the same temperature you fermented.
  25. 1 point
    bpgreen

    lager conditioning question

    Both of those yeasts are rated down to 48F. I think you're confusing the difference between fermentation and conditioning. Many people seem to think that there's only value in conditioning at temperatures where yeast are active. But that's not true, whether we are using ale yeast or lager yeast. Even at temperatures lower than the rated fermentation temperatures, the yeast continue to work, but very slowly. 4 steps Fermentation is the process where yeast converts sugars to alcohol (also co2,but most of this off gasses). Carbonation is when the yeast eat sugars and convert them to co2 (and a small amount of alcohol). Warm conditioning is when fermentation and carbonation are done, but the beer is at a temperature when the yeast is still active. Cold conditioning happens at temperatures where the yeast is not very active. But even at refrigerator temperatures, ale yeast will be a little active, but much less active. Food spoils more slowly in the refrigerator, but it still spoils. Same concept. But other things are happening, as well. There are biological changes and chemical changes.
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