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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/07/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    RickBeer

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    Make sure if you're going to build an inventory that you think it through first. For example, lay out a list of X recipes in the next Y months, and figure out the things you might need. Yeast and hops are perishable, but stored properly can keep well. Always buy from a known supplier, and if you can specify on the yeast (newest batch possible). I bought a bunch of stuff in 2016. Then in 2017 I went and got a brewing education and didn't brew for a year. When I resumed in Spring 2018, some yeast was long in the tooth. Proper storage (frig) meant they were all viable.
  2. 2 points
    Cato

    What does extra yeast do?

    I've never had a problem with dry yeast, but recently did with a liquid yeast that arrived from shipment warm and after no activity in the air lock for 3 days, I did pitch dry yeast and it kicked right off. Learned a lesson there and paid for extra ice pack and insulated envelope for my Altbier I'm brewing tomorrow. I feel more at home using dry yeast and to me less chance of a problem.
  3. 2 points
    Shrike

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    Here's the description of red wheat flakes from the MRB site: "Flaked Wheat greatly increases body and head retention in most any beer. Use in small quantities to prevent haze. Use 1-4 oz in ales, 2-6 oz in wheat beers." When I started getting into PM brews I sat down and read the descriptions of every grain that MRB sells (along with all of their hops). If you've got the time, I recommend it. Pour a home brew and expand your knowledge of grains used in brewing. You'll start to see why certain grains are used with certain styles of beer. And even better, you'll start to think about crafting your own PMs using grains that'll compliment certain HMEs. That becomes helpful when you start having leftover grains from recipes that only use two ounces of a four ounce package of grain. Feel free to bookmark the recipe. Here's a link to the original post about it, and how I came up with its name, "Crafty Bitch".
  4. 2 points
    Cato

    What does extra yeast do?

    I think the MB yeast is 5 or 5.5 grams designed for their 2 gal kits where the other yeasts like Safale etc. are for 5gal and 11g
  5. 2 points
    Squirley Mic

    What does extra yeast do?

    with or without the foil?
  6. 2 points
    MRB Tim

    Making a java or coffee stout

    You have a great sense of timing, we just posted a new blog about that: https://www.mrbeer.com/blog/brew-beer-with-coffee/
  7. 1 point
    Squirley Mic

    What does extra yeast do?

    Were that we had a brewing supply store nearby, but we don't. That's why I need to get some inventories built up and haven't tossed away any yeast packets from MRB yet. They seem to work good with their recipes, so far. But, in truth, I'd probably not even know when/if they weren't since I leave the LBK alone and undisturbed through-out the fermentation process. At, this point, I'm like Cato: comfortable with using the dry yeasts. Unlike him, it's all I know, at this point.
  8. 1 point
    RickBeer

    What does extra yeast do?

    YEAST KILLER!
  9. 1 point
    Cato

    Grain Mill Problems 😞

    @Creeps McLane, zipped thru 9.5 lbs. of grain in just a couple of minutes today. Much better crush for my BIAB!
  10. 1 point
    Squirley Mic

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    That's good advice, about learning about the different grains and beer styles. I guess I hadn't figured on getting that involved when I began this hobby but this is all so interesting to know about. btw, I like the name you gave your recipe, it might just go well with my 'Gone Dog Brewing, Inc.' lineup! 😊
  11. 1 point
    scouterbill

    5.3

    Not to mention having a clearer complexion, brighter smile, and fuller hair! 🤣
  12. 1 point
    Shrike

    What does extra yeast do?

    I've done 52 batches and never re-pitched. I've had a couple of batches where there was practically no sign of krausen and the only indication of activity was trub at the bottom of the LBK. I never pitched more yeast and each batch turned out fine. ETA: I imagine this is the genesis of RickBeer's Rule of STOP LOOKING! If you use good yeast, they're doing their job. The only thing peeking does is make the brewer worry.
  13. 1 point
    RickBeer

    What does extra yeast do?

    I have never had to repitch yeast in 128 batches. Not once.
  14. 1 point
    RickBeer

    What does extra yeast do?

  15. 1 point
    Shrike

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    I had some leftover flaked red wheat along with some other lighter grains. I made this: - 2oz each 2-row, Munich, and red flaked wheat, mashed for 30 minutes. - Add Booster, bring to a boil. - 1/2 oz Chinook for 20 minutes. - 1/2 oz each Chinook and Citra for 10 minutes. - 1 CAL HME. - MRB yeast. - Dry hop with 1/2 oz Citra a week before bottling. I've made variations on it a few times using different hops. The wheat gives a nice, subtle tint to the beer and adds to head retention. Note that it is a bitter beer, but I like a good bitter. Next time I make it I may use a Pale LME instead of the Booster.
  16. 1 point
    MRB Tim

    1 gallon kit

    Any time! It's fixed now, there was just some confusion because both the other kits have 2.
  17. 1 point
    youdontknowme311

    1 gallon kit

    @MRB Tim thanks!
  18. 1 point
    Bonsai & Brew

    5.3

    Mash pH is something that I have not paid a lot of attention to and figured it's time to start tweaking my mash-in-sack process. Improved efficiency would certainly be the prime objective but I'm also curious how/if maintaining the proper mash pH affects the finished beer. I feel like I'm starting over with my all-grain evolution, but that is the price of progress. Also, I've been playing around with the idea of brewing classic styles using appropriate water profiles. I've known for awhile that my water is naturally well suited for Munich Dunkel, Schwarzbier, etc., but because of high alkalinity/bicarbonate, I'll need to dilute that out before building other profiles with brewing salts. Like you suggested, we may as well control what we can in our brew process and hope for better beer!
  19. 1 point
    BDawg62

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    I second what @RickBeer said above. I have an inventory of dry yeast that I keep in my brew fridge. But it is only the basics, 1 Nottingham, and a few US-05. I basically keep them in the event something goes wrong with the liquid yeast I bought for a particular recipe. I also keep left over hops vaccume packed in the freezer. In addition, I vaccume all of my left over grains from recipes as well. Then every 6 months or so I put together a recipe that uses my left overs. Usually not the best beer I brew but always drinkable.
  20. 1 point
    Squirley Mic

    Bottle didn’t carbonate

    Compared to me, U know galaxies of information. 🤩
  21. 1 point
    Cato

    5.3

    That residual alkalinity might be the signature award winning ingredient for Stauhaus Biers!
  22. 1 point
    D Kristof

    5.3

    Shhhhhhh. LOL. @Bonsai & Brew, I use Wally's bottled spring water at $0.88/ gallon and an acid rest while mashing. Using ph strips to measure, I've always been in the range of 5.3 to 5.4 without making any chemical alterations to the water.
  23. 1 point
    It's not really a lager despite the title and so yes made with an ale yeast. For myself I prefer US-05 as my go to yeast for many of the MB recipes but for some English and Belgian partial mashes I'll use Nottingham or BE-256 Abbaye yeast. You do want to ferment the ales a bit on the cool side during krausen, say at a maintained 65F whether it be in a cooler with a frozen water bottle, mini fridge , or a cool room or basement that holds a 65. Oh by the way, welcome to the forum. Lol, you'll find some better answers and advice on here than what's in the MB directions. It's how I found out why I screwed up my first two batches. So, if you've found us before making a batch you'll be a happier brewer by reading up and asking some questions first!
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