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  1. 17 likes
    (more pics to come) Hey guys! I'm VERY excited to announce that we will be opening our VERY FIRST brick and mortar homebrew supply store in our 24 year history!! This will hopefully expand to become a nationwide franchise. I will be managing the store (don't worry, I will still be on here, too) and it will have EVERYTHING any brewer needs - even all-grainers and wine makers. While the store itself will have a much larger inventory than our website, we do plan on selling everything we have in the store on the website eventually (other than bulk grains/malt). The questions I have for the community are as follows: What do you want to see in your local homebrew supply store? What does your current LHBS lack that you wish they had? What types of events and/or promotions would you like to see from your LHBS? While I have several years experience running homebrew stores, times and trends change so I would like to get some input from you guys so we can make this store the best we can. For those of you in the area, we will have our social media site up soon. Grand opening in April.
  2. 7 likes
    My brew buddy and I trade 12ers of misc beers quite frequently. Not too long ago I gave him a few of my Grass Cutter Lager beers. A MRB partial mash recipe that i brewed as a true lager, complete with a DR and slowing crashing down to 35 and then lagered in the secondary for 6 weeks. Anywho, he texted me the other day and he brought that beer up again today when i was over there. He said its a delicious beer, really tasty. Then i said to him, thanks, you know thats a Mr Beer brew right? This is my buddy who has never and will never make an extract batch. He doesnt believe in it. The point is, you can make brewing as hard or as easy as you want. In the end, you will always get beer. Now, i do believe the brew day to drinking day on an all grain batch is a lot shorter but some of my best beers have been with ingredients from MRB. As I advance slowly further into the brewing world I have no excuse to do anything but all grain since ive spent a bit of money for the equipment but I will never look down at any extract brewer. That is all my friends. Now drink a homebrew if you agree with me
  3. 7 likes
    The Millennium Falconers Flight Red is probably my favorite home brew so far -- dry, hoppy, bitter, beautiful!
  4. 6 likes
    Well, I'm a new guy here, so I should probably hold back my opinions, but I have to wonder: If you want to do five-gallon batches, why not just get a bucket? I did a lot of five-gallon batches 8-10 years ago and the main reason I quit, then returned with Mr. Beer, is that I wanted to streamline and simplify. If you want the complications of all the options and equipment, I'd just stretch to the five-gallon kits with buckets and carboys and hydrometers and auto-siphons, etc. It's a lot more work, but it sounds like that's what you're after. Jim
  5. 6 likes
    Again, I'll blame @HoppySmile! for bragging up the Innis & Gunn oak-aged beers, and all the homebrewers that have gone before while 'tinkering with the Winter Dark Ale.' In any case, this recipe used up my last WDA so I thought that I may as well go big.🍻 Rum, Smoke & Oak UK Dark Ale Winter Dark Ale Craft HME, best before Jan. 2017 Malting Co. of Ireland 2-row, 1.0 lb. Simpsons Chocolate malt, 0.13 lb. Chateau Special B, 0.13 lb. Weyermann CaraRed, 0.25 lb. Briess Smoked Cherrywood malt, 0.25 lb. Styrian Goldings, 0.25 oz. 20 min. Styrian Goldings, 0.5 oz. @ flame-out Rum-soaked light oak chips, added following primary fermentation Mangrove Jack's UK Dark Ale yeast Mash grains @ 154 F for 60 min. 'Batch sparge' @ 170 for 5 or 6 min. 35 min. boil. Add WDA @ f/o. OG TBD SRM 39 IBU 52 🍻
  6. 6 likes
    I do indeed put 2.5 gallons in each LBK. I ferment at 64, and only Nottingham overflows, and just barely.
  7. 6 likes
    Here I go after reading and asking some questions here I have decided to try some things out, ( I promise no beer will go wasted with this Test) LBK1 I am calling BikerMedic's Test Beer Either the Reaper will get me or it will Turn out good, I used Amercian Lager extract, 1/2 oz Columbus hops the Robust lme and a Booster I know I made a Dark Beer Gota try it someday either way it will go to good use Either I will Drink it or My Brother will. Going to let it ferment for 3 weeks Carb and conditioning I am going to wait longer to see how it turns out. LBK2 I Did the API/IPA Recipe but only used the Columbus hops and a Booster and the rest of the recipe minus the 1 hops it called for going to let that ferment for 2 or 3 weeks this is the beer I would like to have for my Birthday at the end Of April LBK3 I did the Oktoberfest regular extract nothing added fermenting for 3 weeks then going to bottle and let it sit til closer the end of summer. I like to try new things and I have enough friends I can share my Creations with.
  8. 6 likes
    Home and on the long road to recovery.
  9. 6 likes
    A few thoughts on something Rick said about being a mad scientist - First, Rick is right. Going mad scientist too early is NOT a great idea. And it is isn't because being a mad scientist is bad. It is because it puts the focus on the wrong thing. Making good beer is not going to be dependent creativity, recipe building etc. Making good beer is going to be dependent on having rock solid skills in the essential techniques of brewing. It is about craftsmanship and skill...not recipes. In the beginning stages we need to absolutely master the basics. Setting up a proper system. Standardizing the process. Ensuring sanitation. Pitch temps. Fermentation temps. Bottling. Etc. We become good brewers by eliminating errors and learning to perform the brewing process the same time every time. This is what actually separates the highly skilled guys from the others. And I am talking professional brewers. The systems of brewing and the ability to make beer taste the way they want/expect every time. I was talking to a brewer from Stone once and I asked him, other than them, who were the best brewers around. He said Sierra Nevada. Why? Because their level of craftsmanship, skill and technique were second to none. When we go mad scientist we put our focus on "What hops should I use...how long should I boil....etc." But those are not the early questions. The early questions are...did I properly sanitize the LBK......is my pitch temp correct. The honest test of skill for an early brewer (and I put myself in that category) really isn't so much what does the beer taste like so much as could I brew this beer 7 times and have it taste the exact same each time. The quality of the steak cannot overcome the lack of technique with a bad cook....... Just some random thoughts.....
  10. 5 likes
    Congrats Josh! One thing I wish a LHBS would offer is: Tasting/education nights followed by ability to purchase equipment/recipes. I would love to be able to sign up for a session where we are tasting/being educated on hop profiles (or whatever) with a discussion on techniques. Then after, have the ability to purchase the needed ingredients. For me, that would be awesome. Or say a sampling of stout styles with history, education, technique, etc. then the opportunity to purchase. I would absolutely pay for the tasting event and but the ingredients.
  11. 5 likes
    I've only been to the one LHBS in Louisville once, so I can't speak much from experience. The store mostly caters to wine making, as the owner is from Italy, and it just seems like beer supplies are an after thought. I do think it would be cool to every so often have classes on beer making, so that people realize how easy it really is. And if/when you are ready to open one in Louisville, or if you sell franchises, let me know
  12. 5 likes
    Hello Mr Beer Community - Would anyone care to offer advice on the expected lifespan of an LBK? The first fermenter I began with appears to be unable to hold a viable seal on a spigot. I have tried replacing the washers on the original spigot and, when that failed, I replaced the spigot assembly with a brand-new unit. Still the damnable leakage was present when testing it with water. That said, I have had previous success when placing a #10 O-ring (3/4-inch) on the interior portion of the spigot prior to tightening everything in place. This time, however, there seems to be no bringing it back to brewing effectiveness. Do LBKs eventually wear out? This unit has produced 15-20 batches (30 to 40 gallons), so I bear it no malice -- indeed, it has my unending gratitude. And, yes, they are $10 to replace, so I probably sound like an authentic cheap bastard for inquiring about the matter. Still, I'm sentimental about the old girl and might enshrine it somewhere out on a shelf in the garage if its days have come to an end. All thoughts and observations are appreciated. Too, hats off to all the contributors here -- what a great hobby and pastime we share. The history of humankind is intertwined with its ability to brew beer. For all the BS we deal with on a daily basis, Mr Beer is a welcomed port of colorful characters, interesting stories, friendly people and helpful brewers. Cheers . Rick60
  13. 5 likes
  14. 5 likes
    Long Play IPA. Went by the instructions with the exception of 4 weeks vs 3 bottle conditioning. I refrigerated it for 24 hours and popped the first bottle with my neighbor. Initial taste...dry, with just a slight slight hint of a cidery taste. Neighbor was liking it more as it warmed. Not the IPA I'm use to, but it's beer. I took it out of the frig to get the cider taste out of it (is this ok?). It's been a week and I may pop a bottle in the frig tonight for tomorrow. I've been reading posts, taking notes on what to do on my next batch (tilt LBK, cold crash, 4 weeks bottle conditioning, 12oz bottling, Domino dots...) So on to my next batch. Brew de Ale ze Bub recipe looked to meet my curiosity of bumping up the ABV and IBU while still going by a specific recipe. My only regret is not allowing the hops to boil longer because at this point, I'm going to concentrate more on a hoppy, high IBU IPA. Next weekend will be 3 weeks fermenting so I will cold crash on Friday prior to the bottling. I'm looking at the next recipe and really want to kick it up a bit with hops and IBU. I MADE BEER!!!!!
  15. 5 likes
    Poking around the 'web at lunch today. Went to oregonfruit.com, and found out that they have new fruit purees coming out. Should make for some interesting experiements. New Purees - Coming Soon! Spring 2016 (Available May 11th) - Mango Summer 2016 - Pineapple Fall 2016 - Passion Fruit Winter 2016-2017 - Rhubarb
  16. 5 likes
    We actually do have a honey lager, Honey Maibock (http://www.mrbeer.com/honey-maibock-recipe). If you're concerned about being able to maintain the correct temp for a lager (which, as @MiniYoda pointed out, is usually around 55 F), we also carry a digital temperature controller that you can plug any fridge into to maintain perfect temperature (http://www.mrbeer.com/digital-temperature-controller-outlet-thermostat). If you think you'd rather come up with your own honey lager, I usually recommend no more than 1 cup per 2 gal batch. This will help limit the dryness that @MiniYoda also pointed out.
  17. 5 likes
    how did you taste test? did you dip an unsanitized spoon into the lbk? a ladle? run it out of the tap? scoop your unwashed hand into it with a shot glass? how come you don't elaborate how you took the samples? speculation: you opened the spigot and tried what came out. you bled out trub from the lbk with the sample on week 3 as things had settled and thought 'yuck! this tastes like crap!'. trub tastes like crap. it is yeast poop, dead cells, settled fats and proteins.... it's crap that is yeasty and bitter and unpleasant. no shock that your sample tasted like crap. at week 3 your beer is not yet done. it needs time for flavors to mellow, blend.. for yeast to clean up after themselves. even though I have had super violent fermentations that finish in 4 days, that doesn't mean the beer is ready. time is your friend. dumping beer just because you were impatient and didn't follow instructions.. or because you drank trub thinking it was beer will earn you the wrath of the beer gods. the ONLY beer you should dump is one that is contaminated with ecoli. it will smell like feces. it will likely taste like toilet water. it will make you very sick... not omg I just drank yeast and now I'm pooping like a goose sick.. but omg I woke up in the hospital with tubes in me sick. overly bittered beer if given lots of time to condition will get less bitter and more mellow. acetobacter infected beer can be made into malt vinegar. super easily. lacto bacter infected beer can be made sweeter by adding something to the glass. heres a thought. leave it alone for 3 weeks. stop sampling unfinished beer. sanitize everything. bottle with the right amount of sugar. leave it alone for 4 weeks to carb and condition... THEN try it. beer doesn't just 'spoil' without a) poor sanitation b- repeatedly opening the lbk and exposing it to infectors, c- or something wrong in your process. oh and either prop the spigot end of the lbk up with a couple cd cases to keep trub from leaving the spigot... or when you bottle use a bottling wand and autosiphon..
  18. 5 likes
    You won't get off flavors by conditioning too long, not possible. Flavors will blend together and mellow time.
  19. 5 likes
    Listen. Rick is right. you are being a mad scientist. But I too am a mad scientist. I have not made a beer yet that I haven't tried to mangle. So one mad scientist speaking to another...one of the best decisions you can make right now is to let your beers condition for longer. The longer they can condition, the better they are going to taste. But let's get real...one mad scientist to another. You are not going to listen. You are going to drink them too early. That is fine. Just keep some bottles back. Keep at least three or four that you can let sit for 8....10...12....weeks. AND.....yes...I am going to say it....some you will keep for 8....10....12 MONTHS. Just keep brewing and stock piling. I am still kicking myself that I didn't let one of my quads age for over a year. And...one mad scientist to another....what the heck is going on with LBK3!!!!!! Come on man....you couldn't of at least tried an IMPERIAL Oktoberfestivus Triple Hopped Stout????
  20. 4 likes
    Hey all, I'm new and I wanted to make a czech pilsner, but wanted to tweak the flavor a bit. Not sure how to do this or what flavor profile would taste good. Any suggestions and tips for doing this? Thanks In Advance.
  21. 4 likes
    Tasting notes 3/24/17: Nice, dark and malty 6.6% ABV lager with definite Munich flavors that balance quite well with the Hersbrucker addition. Having a hard time picking up on the Special B, but this beer is good enough to justify picking up another Mr. Beer Dortmunder or two and fermenting with Saflager w-34/70 next time (attenuation with the MJ Bohemian Lager M84 yeast was only 68%). Overall, a pretty tasty Doppelbock to celebrate the return of Spring.🍻🏌
  22. 4 likes
    When you drink one, do you put it in the fridge for three days before opening? That apparently allows the CO2 to redistribute throughout the beer and is highly recommended.
  23. 4 likes
    "Many" is very accurate. 20 years ago there wasn't a craft beer craze like there is today and a LOT of states have been relaxing their brewing laws due to the revenue the brewing/homebrewing industry has been creating in the past 5 years. BOP is making a huge comeback. Trust me, I'm quite versed in current brewing trends and laws as it's part of my job to be.
  24. 4 likes
    Alias, Nobody really answered your question. Too many people telling you not to spend the money to do it. From what I gather in your first post is that you have the kegerator, kegs and CO2 cartriges already. So the cost to you to do this is ZERO. It will take 2 of the mini kegs to do a batch. My advice would be to keg about 2 liters and bottle the rest of the batch. If it works, then you know that you can do it with other batches. If it doesn't you lost 2 liters of beer. The rest of the batch will be in bottles and will be drinkable after carbonation and conditioning. Dawg
  25. 4 likes
    Bottled this morning @ FG 1.013 -- tasty!
  26. 4 likes
    The long and the short of it is that if you go too high with the temp, you may end up with off flavors. The only way to fix that is a long, long conditioning period, and even that doesn't always fix it. On the other hand, if you go too cold, worst case the yeast goes dormant. That will extend your fermentation time a little, but it's easy to fix (specifically, move it somewhere warmer). Like every brewing rule, there are exceptions, such as wheat or saison yeasts that develop different esters at warmer temps that may be intentionally created per the style. It's not really necessary to move it somewhere warmer later in fermentation, although temperature control is especially critical during the first week. A picnic cooler is the simplest and least expensive temperature control. I usually recommend 1 or 2 frozen water bottles changed out every 12 hours to keep it cool, or a hot water bottle every so often to keep warm. Of course, there are many products to help with temperature issues, some we sell currently (http://www.mrbeer.com/digital-temperature-controller-outlet-thermostat), and some we'll be adding this year.
  27. 4 likes
    My rule of thumb is that the extract itself is good for about 3 years past the date, and the yeast is good for 6 months past. I've heard tales of very old yeast working just fine, but 6 months seems to be the 100% reliability cutoff. So, I would use the 2014 can soon, and with a fresh yeast.
  28. 4 likes
    Don't do it...If you bottle a beer that hasn't fermented out completely and still retains fermentable sugar, you'll have no way of calculating your priming sugar level. You'll end up over-carbing. Bottling beer before it's time and priming as usual is the formula for bottle bombs. Let it ferment all the way. If you want a sweet flavor in beer get lactose (milk sugar). It add sweetness but the yeast won't consume it and produce alcohol and CO2.
  29. 4 likes
    One thing about this group - everything said is in the spirit of collaboration, help and guidance. Everyone wants the same things, to brew better beers and to help anyone who comes along with their brewing. We all have our own path. We try to learn from each other and share what we have done. It is never calling anyone out on anything because in the end it is our money, our beer. We all just try to jump in and offer our own experience because we don't just learn from our own mistakes, we also learn from the mistakes of others. In a few short weeks you will have beer! It might be great...it might be cidery. But either way drink enough of it and all will be well!!!!
  30. 4 likes
    It's one of my favorite seasonals and will go well with just about any hop. I recommend trying it on its own first to get an idea as to how you want to change it. I don't see the need to make it a "triple" without first trying it as an imperial. Trust me. It's a good beer on its own. Pick up one to drink on its own and one to "mad scientist" on later.
  31. 3 likes
    Well I bottled a stout on 2/25/17 and I tried one last Friday which was Conditioning 2 weeks. And I have to say it was a very zero carbed mess of a stout!! I also have to say that I only made this for peeps that hang at my cellar bar and regularly enjoy stouts...............I am not a fan! I cracked one tonight after bottling another Diablo IPA probably the fifth which everyone enjoys. I have to say even though I do not usually enjoy stouts and now after 3 weeks in the bottle and finally carbed this tastes pretty damn good! Gotta give it 3 weeks I suppose I have been trying at two weeks most suck 3-4-3 is defenately the way to go on all recipes for me so far.
  32. 3 likes
    the cycle repeats itself over and over ,,,you get to that last beer in a batch ,,,that's now been sitting around for a few months or so,,,,and its the best and you wish you just waited the whole time.... Happens to me all the time...😁...
  33. 3 likes
    Half the weight to carry, fits fixed shelves in fermenting freezer. And "it's a lot more work" is a great reason to NOT move to buckets, carboys (glass carboys are dangerous), auto-siphons, ... As I've documented many times, I brew 5 gallon extract batches, which are basically 2.5 gallons of water, grain steeps, LME, hops, and result in at most 3.25 gallons of wort (depending on grain absorption, can be as low as 2.25 gallons), which I then distribute into two LBKs that each have 1 gallon of refrigerated water in them, then top off to 2.5 gallons in each. The option of adding water after fermentation is one that should not be pursued. Top off water is added BEFORE fermentation. You run the risk of infection (unless you boil and then cool the water first), you run the risk of oxygenation of the wort, you run the risk of stirring up trub that you don't want in your bottles (unless you're doing batch priming), ... If at time of consumption you think the beer is too strong, you have two options: 1) Leave this forum you pansy... 2) Put some water in your glass, then pour in the beer Option #2 is sometimes done by people in a different manner when they make a beer they don't like, i.e. they mix two beers together to get a beer they do like. My Black and Tan is that - two different beers poured into the same glass (with the proper instrument) to make a truly layered beer.
  34. 3 likes
    for me once I do a five gallon batch the main reason would be cause I have like ten Lbk's ,,so might as well use em...😁
  35. 3 likes
    @Rickbeer, there are several of these places in Ohio. I just brewed at one with several friends a few weeks ago. This one is also a brewery with a local following and distribution. They do help with the process in so far as giving advice and showing how it is done. They also break down the amount of time to the potential customer and because they do all of the cleaning, the time needed isn't that large. They don't really count on their BYO business to keep them going, it is mostly a side offering. Look up North High Brewing in Columbus for the information on it.
  36. 3 likes
    That IS a strange combination! My last job was at a homebrew supply store that doubled as gardening supply store. In some areas, especially rural areas, it sometimes makes more monetary sense to have more to sell than just brewing supplies I guess. @MrWhy, yes! We will definitely have tasting events that will hopefully bring in people for our classes. We will probably heavily discount kits/ingredients to people registering to and attending these classes. We have a huge building with only 14 employees so there is a lot of space to do stuff. Plus many of our store displays/furniture has wheels so they can be moved for classes. We even have a projector with a large screen for viewing PowerPoint presentations, images, and movies (beer themed movie nights?).
  37. 3 likes
    Josh - just a small correction in chemistry. Carbon dioxide, at the temperatures and pressures of cold, bottled beer is always a gas. The gas is soluble in liquids, but does not become a liquid itself. As the temperature of the solvent (water in the beer) decreases, the solubility of the gas increases. CO2 in water will form some carbonic acid, thus the acidity of carbonated beverages, and the "bite" on the tongue from the gas bubbles.
  38. 3 likes
    the foamy white stuff is krausen... normal. you want this while fermenting. the browny greeny flakey stuff in the krausen is bits of hop dust and oxidized krausen.. normal... the filmy stainy bits above the krausen are remnants of high krausen... the foam was way up at high krausen and gradually recedes. it leaves behind some crud on the sidewalls of the lbk. you also get some condensation on the sides... also normal. leave it alone. don't waste any more beer on hydrometer testing until the end of week 3. do not open lbk to look inside. let it be. you will know infection when and if you see it. many infections form a pellicle.. a dense spiderwebby thing of white filaments that forms a skin on top.. not foam. other infections like lactobacillus form huge milky snotty looking grey bubbles. even an infected beer is not necessarily ruined. . . the exception being an e coli infection. oh and on the bottom of the lbk you will see a layer of crud. this is trub and is also normal. yeast eat.. yeast poop... yeast die. trub is yeast excretion, fats, proteins, hop dust, grain dust, dead yeast, living lazy yeast... stuff you wont want in your bottles. put a couple cd cases under the front of the lbk to raise the spigot up a little from the trub layer. if you did an 8ish minute boil of dme with hops for aroma... you might detect some scent now but likely wont til you age and drink it. some hops are more stinky than others. some are so subtle you wont notice til drinking. just let it be.
  39. 3 likes
    Hello, everyone. I'm the latest new guy. I have a couple of questions before I start my first Mr. Beer batch, probably tomorrow. 1. I've read over the instructions and seen they recommend 68 to 76 as a target fermentation range. But many of the regulars on this forum seem to favor the mid-60s. Can you tell me what the thinking is on this? 2. Since fermentation will bump the wort temperature, should I try to put the LBK in a cooler room the first few days for active fermentation, then move it to a warmer room, or is it better to let it stay put than be carting it all over the house? I'm planning to use an old picnic cooler for insulation and light control. I figure I can put jugs of cold or warm water inside the box to help correct the temps. Would that be enough? Years ago, I did some brewing, maybe 15 batches of the buckets-and-carboys thing, but it's been years, so I'm glad to see there are helpful people here ready to lend a hand. Thanks in advance. BTW, You won't have to convince me to exercise patience. I remember from 8 or 10 years ago that the batch is done when it's done, not when the calendar says. And I remember with some pain that the best beers I drank were the ones that sat in the bottle for 8 or 9 months. The pain was from the fact that just as they were getting really good they were gone. Jim
  40. 3 likes
    In case I don't make it back from the Rio Grande this week, here is my recipe to commemorate the journey. 'Return of El Gordito' Vienna Lager Mr. Beer Mexican Cerveza HME Dark Munich, 0.33 lb. Vienna, 0.5 lb. CaraMunich Type 2, 0.12 lb. Carafa Special II, 0.08 lb. Flaked Corn, 0.3 lb. Pilsen, 0.25 lb. Booster, ½-pack (optional, as always) Northern Brewer, 0.3 oz. 20 min. Saaz, 0.5 oz. 5 min. Saflager S-23 lager yeast, ferment @ 55 ºF Mini-mash (60 min. @ 153 ºF) with HME @ f/o ~45 min. boil SRM 13 IBU 21 ABV 5.8% OG was 1.060
  41. 3 likes
    Well, I've already failed the first test of patience. Instead of waiting for Mr. Beer to deliver a replacement keg, I went to the semi-local Winco today and bought a keg-and-extract kit just to get a functioning fermenter. I really want to get this batch going this weekend so I can bottle before a vacation we have coming up in mid-April. Now I have something you might call a happy problem. I have to decide which extract kit to do first, the Bewitched Amber that came with today's kit or the American Lager or Aztec Mexican Cerveza that came with the original kit. Any thoughts out there? Has anyone found any of those to be favorites, or closer to fool-proof? Jim
  42. 3 likes
    Big Sarge, You have been here for nearly 2 years, you don't need to explain your actions to anybody.
  43. 3 likes
    Brewed a 4 gallon, all grain Pale Ale yesterday. 5 gal boil. 7.5lb 2 row 0.5lb Caramel 40 0.5lb Carapils Mash at 154 for 75 min. Mash out, batch sparge the recirculated the wort for 25 min with cousin's recirc pump. Wow!!! Wort in to boil kettle was so clear... 0.5oz Citra 60 min 0.7toz Exp Stonefruit 15 minutes 1.0oz Exp Stonefruit flameout. Whirlpool to 170 them cooled. Aerated wort well and Pitched WLP001 at 65 deg. Fermenting 1 week, secondary two weeks, bottle 2.4 vol three weeks. OG: 1.053 Es FG: 1.012 Est abv: 5.3 SRM: about 7 IBU: 53 Fermentation took off about eight hours after pitching the yeast and temps are holding 65-66 last I checked.
  44. 3 likes
    Use the lightest DME - pilsener or the wheat - unless you really like it malty. For me if it is that malty it is not a pilsener that I like. I like them crisp. For the Cooper's Pilsener (not the same HME) I added Saaz hops. But I have done the same for the Mr Beer LME, and a pack of the lightest LME. I did it 2 ways with the Cooper's: - with 0.5 oz in bag at flameout - left in through fermentation - with 0.5 oz made steeped in boiling water for 30 min than liquor added before fermentation. This one had another 8 oz Pilsener DME Both were good. Try to ferment cool, you can use a mix of lager and ale yeasts - that is what Coopers give you so it works at any temp.
  45. 3 likes
    Great combo! For bitterness: Get the golden with water at a low boil - add the Chinook hops and look for a 20 minute boil. I would at the end of 20 minutes pull that hop sack and toss it. For aroma/flavor - after you pull out the chinook - toss in the hallertau and immediately turn off heat. Stir in the CPils. Following Mr. Beer instructions get everything, with hallerau hop sack into the keg. It is going to turn out great!
  46. 3 likes
    I'd go with the golden or pale LME myself,, the robust is gonna give ya coffee toffee like flavors which could be good idk its your beer... But since your new I'd try the grand bohemian chech pilsner straight up ,,add a pale LME and it will still taste pretty much like it's supposed to,,, the golden LME will definitely give ya better head retention....i pretty much use the robust in my stouts and porters... But again its your beer and that's half the fun.... Good luck 🍻
  47. 3 likes
    I've brewed a good number of batches with that yeast at ale temp. In particular light adjunct lagers work extremely well. There's virtually no yeast contribution once it settles a little. They ferment quick and clean, clear very well . I've gone from grain to glass in as little as 3 weeks pretty routinely with kegging, but there's no doubt that the beer gets better with a little time. Yes, sulfur is often present during fermentation of any lager, even at lower temperatures, but it dissipates completely by the time it's ready to bottle or keg. And, yes, it can smell pretty nasty, so if you do start using lager yeasts, keep your fermenters out in the garage, not in a closet in the house. You can only blame it on the dog for just so long before your wife catches on and puts the kibosh on your brewing activities. You can get very similar results with a really clean ale yeast. I've used S-04 on a lager grain bill and the result is a clean malty Kolsch with just a little flavor from the yeast. That dies down when it's stored cold for a while and you get something that barely resembles an ale at all. Most every yeast will ferment quite well considerably outside it's preferred temperature range. It just acts a little differently and produces different flavors...some desirable and some not so much.
  48. 3 likes
    Ok. so 19B is the California Common. Interesting history: American West Coast original, brewed originally as Steam Beer in the Gold Rush era. Large shallow open fermenters (coolships) were traditionally used to compensate for the absence of refrigeration and to take advantage of the cool ambient temperatures in the San Francisco Bay area. Fermented with a lager yeast, but one that was selected to ferment relatively clean beer at warmer temperatures. Modern versions are based on Anchor Brewing re-launching the style in the 1970s. I have SOOOOOOOOOO much studying to do before my exam............
  49. 3 likes
    That line made me literally laugh out loud I have an odd sense of humor that I think comes from having Irish Catholics on one side of the family and Irish Protestants on the other.
  50. 3 likes
    Great start!!!! Here is the path CAL + Booster+ Pale + LME (optional) + Hops. So you always go with what you just said - CAL, booster, pale. Then you start by adding some hops. Don't worry here. Pick some aroma/flavoring hops. Research, read, go a little crazy and don't worry. SAAZ...Warrior...Golding's.....whatever! Mix and match or go for one. I can give you a bit more advice if you ever want. The second LME is optional (I like big beers). So far I've stuck with Pale/Pale but want to move into Pale/Robust just to see what happens. Right now I am drinking (literally...I am drinking and typing) a little CAL work up I did centered around Hallertau hops. CAL, Booster, Pale, Pale, a ton of hops with a Hallertau emphasis. (Don't have the exact notes with me..I know I have warrior in there too.) I love this beer. If someone served me this at a brewery I would look the brewer in the eye and say "you my friend have a winner here." And if since at the moment that brewer is me, and I am the one looking me in the eye, it is all just sort of weird. But having a base, and using it to experiment, is a great way to learn.