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  1. 14 likes
    Beer, the fermenting frontier. These are the voyages of Mr. Beer Brewers. Its 2 gallon mission: to explore strange new brews, to seek out new flavors and new combinations, to boldly go where many have gone before. Welcome to the BeerBorg Information Center. You will be Assimilated. Resistance is quite Futile: We have Beer. And Now a few words from THE NONG. Some simple guidelines: Sanitize everything you are going to use. The last thing you want is a “goobie” attack on your beer. Prep your work area and preset all items. The last thing you want to happen is to be in the middle of an "operation" and get distracted and forget to add something. As this has been discovered by new groups of "newbz", I decided to add this bit of information. Measure the volume content for your LBK (little brown keg). The markings aren't as accruate as you may think. It's simple to do. Just start adding known quantitys of water, and mark it on the outside with a sharpie. That way, you know how mucy liquid is actually in the Keg. Pre-measure your "goodies" and set them up in order of use. VERIFY your measurements!! and make sure you're using the correct end of this thing... Big Difference between 1 tsp and 1 TBSP If your water doesn’t taste good, get some Spring water from Wally World or somewhere else. It will take longer than 2 weeks to make beer. Cooling down the Wort When you've brewed up your wort (read: emptied the warm cans of HME/UME...or Booster into the hot water)and you are getting ready to add it all to the LBK (Little Brown Keg) you can set the pot the wort is in into a sink with Ice or Cold water. This will cool it down before adding it to the Keg. The normal instructions say that you need to fill the LBK up to the 4 line with water. If you do that, make sure it's cold water. The colder the better. Because if you're going to add "HOT WORT" to the keg, you don't want to warp it out. Then you're to fill to the 8 line to top it off. Again, cold water. If using refrigerated water, you really shouldn't have a problem. If you're using cold tap water, you should cool down that wort. And, unless you really like to tinker, there really isn't a need for a wort chiller for a MB sized wort. But then, it IS a Boy Toy. I've found that when adding the wort to the LBK, I have better control if I pour towards me. That way, I can determine "flow rate" and Target. 14~21 days in the keg at 66*F is good.[ If you get the temperature too low, the yeast will go to sleep. If the temperature is too high, it will die. So it helps to research the temperature range of your yeast.] This will allow the yeast to convert the sugars to Alcohol and the Co2 will protect your beer from oxygen. (note: It is wise to purchase a Hydrometer. They are simple to use. They take 99.9% of the guess work out of "Is it done yet?" In short, as pointed out by one of our BOM Borg members, The Hydrometer is like your gas gauge. It lets you know when it's full (read unfermented sugars) and when it's Empty (The sugars have been converted). Two things here: Buy 2 hydrometers, if kept alone, they tend to commit suicide. AND...if your taking readings, you CAN sanitize the meter and tube, and then return the sample to the keg. Me, I like to drink the sample and see how it is going. But to each, their own. (1) not ALL beers will react the same in the keg (2) not ALL beers will have a lot of Krausen (foam). (3) not All beers will show activity. (4) some beers will blow the lid off your fermenter. a. Some will wait until you think it's safe, then spew. (5) beers are like kids…you can make them with the same ingredients and still wind up with a different personality. If you see a build up of “trub” (gunk) on the bottom of the fermenter, you ARE making beer. This is trub in a bottle. You'll see the same stuff at the bottom of your Keg. If you want to clear the beer up a little before you bottle: cold crash. That would be to place the fermenter into the fridge for a few days. This helps drop yeast and other objects out of suspension , thus clearing up the beer. Remember, bottle while the wort is still cold, do not let it warm up, or you run the risk of everything coming out of suspension again. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO COLD CRASH. Seems I missed a step here: Priming. There are two schools of thought here. One is to bottle prime. That's pouring the sugar directly in the bottle, then adding the finished beer, and cap. Keep in mind when priming the bottles directly, you may need a small funnel as the hole at the top of the bottles are realativly small, and MOST IMPORTANT is use the right end of the measuring device. There is a big difference between 1 tsp and 1 TBS. The other is "Batch" priming. Here, you add the sugar to water, bring to a boil, cool the sweet water, and then add it to the beer in a second container for mixing. We've found a low cost helpful tool at "Wally World" called a slimline. It holds about 2.5 gallons, and works great for a Mixing container. This is stolen directly from a fellow BeerBorg Member's post: I've seen a number of posts recently with folks wanting to try batch priming and having a lot of questions about beer styles, levels of CO2, etc. so I thought I would start a thread here in hopes that: 1) The newer folks wanting to try this by using an online tool get their questions answered, AND 2) The old hands can offer feedback and advice in a (somewhat) singular spot What is batch priming? Simply stated, it's adding priming sugar to the whole batch of beer at one instead of into each individual bottle. To do this this you'll need to have a second MrB keg, a bottling bucket, or something like a slimline container from Walmart or somewhere similar. How do you do it? - Bring about a 1/2 cup of water to a boil - Turn flame off and add priming sugar (whatever you choose to use) - Let cool down to room temp (some like to let it boil for 10 minutes, I don't) - Rack (move/drain) beer into the secondary container using the spigot, racking cane/tube, or tubing taking care to not splash and aerate the beer - Add cooled priming solution and stir GENTLY if you choose to. Some just add the priming solution first or halfway through and let the natural movement of the draining beer mix it. The key is to sanitize everything like always and avoid splashing How do I use a priming calculator? First, choose one like these: Tasty Brew Screwy Brewer Beer Recipricator There are others as well if you want to search around. I'll use the one from Tasty Brew in this example: First: Decide how much carbonation you want in your beer. This is expressed in volumes of CO2 (2.3, 2.7, 3.0, etc.). In this tool, the styles of beer are in the drop down menu along with associated range of CO2 volumes. If you are making an American Amber Ale choose that from the drop down menu and you'll see the CO2 range from 2.26 - 2.78. Second: Decide if the amount in the pre-populated box is what you want. It will set the middle range of that style for you. You can adjust that up or down manually by typing in the box if you like. If you're like me, you won't have any idea what this means initially (What the heck does 2.26 volumes of CO2 feel like anyway???). Until you get a feel, you'll have to test and see what you like but this is where the styles as examples come in handy. You do NOT have to stick to these guides, but they are helpful if you like the level of carb you typically see in a wheat beer for example, or a porter. Third: Enter the amount of beer you are priming. MrB sizes are 2.14 gallons to 2.4 or 2.5 depending on how full you fill your keg. (Standard to instructions is 2.14 gallons) Fourth: Enter the temperature that you fermented at. Why is this important? CO2 is more soluble in colder temps so if you ferment at a colder temp you have more residual (already produced) CO2 in the beer already so you need to take that into account. Fifth: Press CALCULATE and you'll be presented with different weights for three different priming options (corn sugar, table sugar and DME). You'll have to look at the packaging, look at the manufacturer's website or talk to your LHBS about the fermentability of the DME you buy if you go that route. The calculator at Screwy's site allows you to also choose honey as a priming agent and gives you the option to get weights or measurements but you'll have to know the volume of CO2 you want to enter manually. It's really that simple. Don't be intimidated by the tools or the process if you want to try it. there's lots of help here for anybody that wants to try it and has questions. (This post brought to you by an extremely long conference call at work that I have no need to be on....hopefully it's helpful to somebody) ok, that was his imput. I've stolen it. Why? it's informative. Plus, he said I could. There are calculators out there for figuring out how much to add for any given beer, so I am not going to post them all here. As to which is best? Personal preference. They Both get the job done. Once you bottle your beer, allow it to sit in a Dark Spot for at least 4 weeks. (note: it’s better to put the sugar in the bottle first, then the beer. On several occasions when adding the sugar last, the bottles have foamed up. This doesn’t happen when the sugar goes in first)This is what is going on in those 4 weeks: The First 2 weeks at room temp (somewhere around 70*F) allows the yeast to carbonated your beer. Sitting for an additional 2 weeks (at 70*F) allows the yeast to finish up anything it didn’t. This is referred to as “Lagering”. This allows the beer to age a bit and allow the flavors to fight it out and learn to get along. It does not mean it has to be “Cold Lagered”. This is ALE we’re talking here, not Lagers (that uses different yeast, and a different method of brewing). Before you drink your beer, place it in the fridge for a few days. A week would be better. This also helps clear up the beer, and drops more out of suspension . Don’t be in a hurry to “experiment” with your brews. Learn what they taste like first THEN play with them. It’s hard to “find” that taste with modifications if you don’t know what the original tastes like. Some Terms: OG : Original Gravity. This is a reading you take before you add the yest to the wort. This number tells you how much FERMENTABLE sugars are in the beer you are making. You take the reading before you add the yeast so that you're not reading a partially fermented batch. FG : Final Gravity. This number tells you how much has fermented. As a general rule, this number should be about 1/4 of the original gravity. If you are using a wine or champagne yeast, your readings may be lower. LBK: Little Brown Keg. It's the Mr. Beer fermenting container. It's Little, It's Brown, and it looks like a keg. Conditioning: (AKA Lagering) Standard conditioning: MB was famous for telling you to "Lager" your beer. This caused great amounts of confusion. To Lager actually means to "store". Americans tend to thing "COLD STORAGE" when the word lager is used. It doesn't get that warm in Germany. But, as we are making ales and not "lager beer". Ale uses a yeast that really likes temps between 64*F~75*F. So,if you drop your beers in the fridge after first bottling at say the standard 38*F, your yeast will go to sleep and never do a thing to carbinate your beer. So, you wind up with flat beer. When making a ALE BEER, "Lager" it at room temp. Our Room Temp. Not the Artic Room Temp. Lager's... they use a different yeast, they like it cold, read the instructions on the pack. It takes longer to make the "Lager" beers. They yeast normally isn't as active as Ale yeast, and there is more to doing a Lager than a ale. I would get too long winded here to explain it all. I really suggest you ask on the boards. HME: Hopped Malt Extract (this malt has Hops in them already)[Do not boil HME~it will destroy the hop flavor in it.] LME: Liquid Malt Extract [can be used/boiled for hop addition] UME: Unhopped Malt Extract [can be used/boiled for hop addition] DME: Dry Malt Extract [can be used/boiled for hop addition, but must go thrugh a "Hot Break" Boil first]The DME hot break happens at about 211*212*F [at Sea level]. I've taken to holding the temp at 210*F for about 10 min. and allowing it to gently do a hot break. You'll see that during this process, the color goes from a creamy color to the darker clear color. As pointed out by fellow BeerBorg members, people living at higher elevations may only need to bring the temp to 207*f~ so check your location for accurate boiling temps. Dry Hopping: adding hops to the Wort after the boil (adds aroma)a word of caution here:( if you dry hop for more than 5 days, you may develope a "veggie" taste in your beer. so Try to Time your dry hopping. ) Flame OUT: when you turn the heat off after the boil It’s better to chase Flavor than it is to chase alcohol %. If you chase flavor, in most cases the alcohol level will go up. If you just add sugars to increase the alcohol content, you’ll make a nice cider…and will take months to mellow out enough to drink. New brewer just love to go all “Mad Scientist” and toss in every bit of fermentable sugars they can hoping to have a super High alcohol drink. Then they are quite put off when the beer goes all Frankenstein on them. Try to keep it down to a 2:1 malt to sugar ratio. That would be 2 parts malt, and one part “sugary stuff”. Hop boils. (boiling hops in water alone does not allow for the “goodies” to attach to anything. It needs a Malt extract of some kind to stick to. That is where all the Boil times for the hops comes in with the Malt extract.) The time line for boils are similar to a NASA count down. Consider all times as T minus launch. So when it’s written as a 50 min addition (as is the bitterness boil) , you add those hops while you still have 50 min left in the boil. Likewise with the 22 and 7 min boils. Then, you turn the flame off. You have Launch...er, wort. 90% Bitterness is achieved at 50 min. 60 Min will give you 95%. 100% is not achieved until 110 min. It’s your time, you figure out how long you want to boil. 100% Flavor is achieved at 22 min. It’s a steep curve. With 18% at 10 min, and a drop down to 10% at 35 min. Don’t over do a flavor boil. 100% Aroma at 7 ½ min boil. This curve is steeper than the flavor boil. It drops to 10 % at 15 min, and zero at 18 min boil. in the event this chart does not come up, please go to http//www.brewsupplies.com/_borders/hop_utilization.jpg Bottles: There has been questions about bottles. What can be used, what to do with them. Why is there air..no, that's someone else's thing..never mind. Brown Recapable Bottles. Most here at the BeerBorg Information Center have read, studied and generally come to the conclusion that Brown bottles keep out more distructive UV rays than the other bottles. UV light tends to cause the the Hops in beer to get real rowdy and stink up the joint. It seems there is a chemical reaction that happens with the UV and Hops that causes what's known as "Skunking" the beer. Yep, it smells of "Pepe La Pew". So the question is: Can I bottle my beer in a non-brown bottle? The answer: Yes. You sure can. To prevent (or reduce the chances) the beer from getting skunked, it's best to treat these non brown bottles like a Vampire you'd like to keep around for a while. Keep them in the dark. Now don't get all 'noided about it. It's not like if a ray of light hits the bottle it's going to blow up. The longer the beer is exposed to the UV, the more it will skunk out. Other types of Bottles: PLASTIC. PET bottles are fine. Previously used soda bottles are fine. Bottles that had a carbonated content are fine. Just make sure you've cleaned them well. As far as the Root Beer bottles... clean them with COLD WATER. Once you set that flavor in the bottle, it is there for good. In Fact, I suggest you clean all your pet bottles with cold water to prevent the unwanted setting of a flavor. The caps from the soda bottles are good for about 5 re-uses. After that, it's a crap shoot. Be patient Temptation is great to drink your beers early. It’s natural. The only problem is, the beer is NOT ready yet. If you really want to see the progression of beer, you will have to wait a long time. Here is how you can do it. after one week, take a bottle and place it in the fridge. after two weeks, take a bottle and place it in the fridge. after three weeks, take a bottle and place it in the fridge. after four weeks, take a bottle and place it in the fridge. Now, wait 3 days to allow the last addition to chill. Take four small glasses. Fill one from each of the beer bottles. Now taste them in progressive order. You’ll find that the fridge will STOP the yeast from it’s work. Now you have an example of how each beer taste at a particular stage. I bet the last addition taste better. Here is someone's video going through a 31 test period. Worth the watch: So the lesson here is: if you can't wait for it to mature, don't be surprised if the beer only hits a "meh" level. AT that point, remember, We Told You So. All this is lessons learned by many. Take this information for what it is worth. Learn from others, or re-invent the wheel on your own. It’s YOUR Beer. Also, for further reading (it’s also in a updated book form: http://web.archive.org/web/20071205194030/www.howtobrew.com/intro.html For a hop education (profiles really) http://www.roguebrewers.com/Hop_Profiles.html and a heads up for when you want to start harvesting bottles with free beer in them... http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Pry_off_bottles For a quick and easy carbination calculator Screwy Brewer has worked hard to set this up for you: http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewing-tools-formulas.html#bpc Yeast profiles http://www.onebeer.net/yeaststrains_lager.html http://www.onebeer.net/yeaststrains_ale.html another point of contact at a later time: http://www.beerborg.com/index/ we talk beer. We're not always there, but it's possible to leave messages.
  2. 7 likes
    Blondes use a paler malt, no real distinctive taste to good old two row. Its like a blank canvas. I would say straw or biscuit flavored. Very subtle. Theres nothing for the imperfections of brew day and fermenting to hide behind on the CAL or pilsner or blonde. They arent hoppy, they arent malty, theyre just an easy drinking beer. Therfore you have to give them more time to let the flavors find harmony and some other ones subside. stouts for example use roasted malts. Very defined flavors like bitterness of coffee and bitter sweet of chocolate. Things you can pick up and say that tastes like (fill in the blank). Those tastes are stronger on the senses and help cover up off flavors that are common in HME.
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    I recently received a shipment, and everything was in order, except for the fact that one 4 oz package of carapils had come open, and the grain was everywhere. I let CS know, just because I'd want to know if I shipped something and it came open. Anyway, I wasn't trying to get 4 ounces of grain replaced, it's simply too easy for me to get that small of an amount at my LHBS. I was thanked for the info, and given a little store credit for for my trouble! I mean, WHO does that? Just awesome!
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    Some help here from fellow AZ brewer who did a few very successful brews in July and August. I have a combination of large and medium rre-freezable blue packs available from Target .As I started learning to brew, as I changed the packs, I found that a combination of one large and one small was the best combination for keeping the fermenting brew at a nice mid 60's temp. I changed them daily and kept a log of temps. I changed to 2 larger ones to lower temps for the Pilsners and lagers, which I prefer. All have fermented well. Only one of my 10 brews not tasted yet is one which I am lagering for 6 months. (Ah, the joy of heightened patience!). I hope to obtain a nice 4 cub. fit or larger fridge after our move next spring. Welcome to the hobby. And even an imperfect beer is most often tasty. I have made my fair share of mistakes but never a regret. Pros't!
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    Just so you guys know, we have switched to a new manufacturer for our kegs and these issues should be solved in the coming year as the new kegs are released.
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    I'd chime in but this is a little beyond my level. I look over the list and would say "Brew up the Churchill's Nut Brown Ale. That sounds tasty!"
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    If you like that porter, make this: Mr Beer Baltic Porter - with maybe a couple shots of cold espresso (I have not tried adding coffee but others here do that to beer.) It is on sale I used the warm ferment with S-04 yeast. I see that is package option out of stock but the cold ferment is still available. I would get that and buy the S-04 yeast as well unless you have a spare ale yeast. You can use the lager yeast for other beers later. OR if you are feeling like branching out with a recipe that worked well for me ...with grain steep and hop boil (you can also do it without). It will be a little sweeter and you can always add some cold black coffee to juice up that coffeeness if you want. But for me this is like dessert without the coffee. Double Deluxe Milk Choc Porter. Porter HME, 1x Robust, 1xSmooth LMEs, 1/4 cup lactose (2 oz?), 1/2 oz EKG hop in a bag 5 min boil (leave in LBK during ferment), liquor from 20 min steep 160 deg 2 oz choc grains. Mr B supplied ale yeast. Ferment @ 63-65. Process: Steep grains in muslin bag with hot water to cover keep hot (150-160) for 20-25 min, drain and rinse bag through with cup hot water. Discard grain bag. Make drained liquid up to 4 cups volume if less. Boil the hops in a muslin bag in the liquid. Transfer hop bag to LBK with the 1 gal cold water in it. Dissolve lactose in wort, dissolve all liquid malts in wort, transfer to LBK, and top up to line. add yeast when under 75 deg. Ferment @ approx. 65 deg if you can. Take out the hop bag before bottling - it gets in the way. If you like it stronger, add a pack of pale LME too.
  9. 4 likes
    I get the variety, I just don't empty the bottle at 1 sitting. I have several 1/2 bottles in the fridge. That is the nice thing about screw cap :-D
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    I started this beer thing because I was too much of a bourbon fan. I get up at 4:30 -5:am 7 days a week, these days by 9-10 pm it only takes 2 beers and I am snoozing. There are evenings where I just have ice water but I do have a few fingers of bourbon on Friday and Saturday evenings. epete's post made me go count. In 240ml bottles I count 78 in the beer fridge, 48 more conditioning, Then there's 4.5 to 5 gallons fermenting. At my rate of consumption I am technically set for a while .....THEN something else catches my eye that I need to order. I am forcing myself to slow that roll by not ordering more bottles..... for now.
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    The wife baked some raspberry short bread cookies and I broke the seal on the Basic Chocolate Stout, this was the trub bottle. And the cookies were great....... and so is the stout. It is so different from the sample taken during the bottling, the cherry taste is gone and the chocolate has really come through. The chocolate taste is like a milk chocolate and the stout has silky smooth mouth feel to it. So far I think this is a great success, This was the trub bottle and I know the favor could be slightly different, but here to hoping it is not.
  12. 4 likes
    I have always gone with the idea that if I am not sure it needs sanitized then it should be sanitized.
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    I will always say, the less bottles to wash the better. I also would fill the LBK a bit over recommended. I dont care if my beer drops from 5.5 to 5.2. Doesnt bother me one bit.
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    That is a recipe from @hotrod3539 and I believe it was handed down from a real brewer if im not mistaken. I do however believe that any recipe is just a recipe and the real crafting comes on the brewing process. But i wouldnt do a two hearted clone and enter it into competition. Its not mine. You know? That recipe is the bleeding buckeye that he brewed
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    I bottled a batch of Sticky Wicket about a month ago and had one last weekend. Maybe a bit early but I couldn't wait. Darn good stuff but I forced myself to leave the rest to continue conditioning.
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    I'll be pouring my first one of these this weekend and am looking forward to it.
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    Well I finally got down to visit one of the semi-local breweries, (SunKingBrewing.com in Indianapolis, Indiana). Between taking the "King's Reserve Tour" which had several samples, I tried a few pints while waiting on the tour to start and have a better idea of what kind of "craft" beer I like, and a better idea of what i do NOT like... What I did not like: Osiris Pale Ale Pale Ale - American 5.6% ABV 50 IBU Osiris Pale Ale is an assertive West Coast-Style Pale with a distinct citrus hop punch. I must really not like hoppy beers because they said it was a mildly hoppy IPA... not my cup of tea What I sort of liked: Sunlight Cream Ale Cream Ale 5.3% ABV 20 IBU Sunlight Cream Ale celebrates American brewing tradition by balancing smooth malt complexity with a crisp, clean finish. Sunlight was the winner of the Gold Medal at the 2015 Great American Beer Festival and the Silver Medal Winner at the 2010 World Beer Cup in the Golden or Blonde Ale category. This was just OK, but definitely drinkable but would not be my first choice. What I liked: Bitter Druid ESB Extra Special / Strong Bitter 5.7% ABV 41 IBU Bitter Druid is an Americanized Extra Special Bitter (ESB) in which rich malt character is followed by a crisp American hop finish. The Flannel Mist Belgian Quad 10.7% ABV 24 IBU The Flannel Mist is a Belgian-Style Quadruple that parades the complex character of dark fruit and the brightness of fresh cherry over a spicy Belgian nose. Velour Soccer Mom (2017) Sour - Ale 5.5% ABV 20 IBU Velour Soccer Mom is a crisp Sour Ale that is aged in oak barrels with fresh raspberries and hibiscus. It has a light body with a pink hue and was fermented with Brettanomyces, a wild yeast that lends a delightfully tarr character. What I LOVED: Wee Muckle Scotch Ale / Wee Heavy 10.2% ABV 30 IBU Wee Muckle is a large, malt-balanced ale with huge toffee flavors and hints of port-like character. Wee Muckle was the winner of the Gold Medal in the Scotch Ale category at the 2011 Great American Beer Festival. When the Lights Go Out Porter - Other 6.3% ABV 24 IBU When the Lights Go Out is a porter brewed with locally roasted coffee for maximum aroma balanced with creamy malt sweetness and a dry finish.
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    With the exception of hoppier light-colored beers, Conway Twitty seems to rear his ugly head in the lighter ones more often than the darker. At least in my experience, that is. And longer conditioning helps with that.
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    What epete28 said. I've been using glass for the last few batches. But, I like the 1/2 liter because I usually want more than 12 ounces. I still have the 1 liter bottles, but have not used them in a while (but now I am thinking to use them for my next brew).
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    @epete28, I get an email every time a new thread starts. The email came in from you as 91 beers, and I was impressed. Best I can drink in one day is 30. Then I read the body of your email. Nevermind,
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    It's a preference only I think. Those oxygen barrier bottles are for extended conditioning batches. I mostly use 16 oz bottles I got from my LBHS. 16 of them make a batch, and I like even numbers. The 740 ml usually gives me 11 bottles. The big MB bottles, which I don't think they have anymore, hold a whole batch in 8 bottles. That's fine, but one bottle is an eighth of a batch.
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    Email our customer service department at customerservice@mrbeer.com and we will see if we can send some replacements out to you. Be sure to include your full name and shipping address.
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    I totally submerge the cans when warming them up so I don't care which way it is. Sometimes they are sideways. Although since it is made in Australia they may come out better if inverted. (ho ho). Coopers kit yeasts are different from Mr Beer though. They have more kinds. I found this info in case you are using Cooper's 6 gal kits - it may reference older cans though. They also only package 7g yeast for 6 gals of wort. - compare Mr. Beer 5g for 2 gal. It seems to work though - I divide it between the LBKs and they go just fine. It may get more fruity taste though since growth phase will be longer. That may be intentional. https://www.coopers.com.au/coopers-forum/topic/7290/ The following explains the ink-jetted code on the yeast sachets, supplied with each beer kit: Sachets carry a Julian date code and may also carry letters to denote the type of yeast. For example, if they were packaged on the 25th of September 2007 = 268th day of 2007: Original Series:- Ac (26807) International Series:- Australian Pale Ale - Ac+L (26807 Int) Mexican Cerveza - Ac+L (26807 Int) European Lager - L (26807 P) Canadian Blonde - Ac (26807) English Bitter - Ac (26807) Thomas Coopers Selection:- Wheat - A (26807 W) IPA - Ac (26807 IPA) Irish Stout - A (26807 IS) Pilsener - L (26807 P) Australian Bitter - Ac+L (26807 PS) Heritage Lager - Ac+L (26807 PS) Sparkling Ale - Ac+L (26807 PS) Traditional Draught - Ac+L (26807 PS) Note: Ac = Coopers ale yeast (our own strain, not the same as the yeast in our commercial ales, developed in-house and propagated under contract). A = ale yeast and L = lager yeast (these strains are commercially available dry yeast and their details are held in confidence).
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    Most of Mr. Beer's refills contain the same yeast. However, SOME of Mr. Beer's refills contain different yeast, for example the WHEAT-BASED products. From a December 2016 post by JoshR: The white yeast pack under the Bavarian Weissbier lid is a wheat yeast. The Gold packets are all basic Coopers ale yeasts, and the Gold packet under the lid of the Churchills is an English ale yeast. I used to label my packets as to which refill they came with, and then use them in date order, oldest first.
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    There is no such thing as too much sanitizing.
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    I've seen it stated some place that really blonde beers need lots of conditioning. Have yall found this to be true, and if so, why is it? I'd think the darker ones would need the most time.
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    I recently had an order that was missing a packet of mulling spices. A quick email to CS and the spices arrived in a couple days. Good deal!
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    These are some of my favorite quick turnarounds. https://www.mrbeer.com/golden-empire-ipa , https://www.mrbeer.com/thunder-bay-ipa , https://www.mrbeer.com/surly-dog-ipa-recipe
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    Looking at my brew notes, Witch's Flight, Santa Rita Pale Ale, and Suava Java all fit the bill. Those are the ones I've done that I really enjoy and have quick turnarounds; I plan on brewing them all again. I might add Long Play IPA to that list once I taste the first one in a week.
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    I have only used the 740ml bottles. I add a bit more water in the LBK along with booster in the wort then tip the LBK to just squeeze out 12 bottles. I think that works out to 2.25 gallons instead of 2. I understand this amounts to watering down my beer but really I doubt I know the difference. I have no problem draining the whole 740ml if I feel like it (hell it's only 2 beers). When I order a tall draft at a restaurant, and I always order a tall draft, it's nearly the same amount. If I save 1/2 for the next day or even a couple days later they've been fine too.
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    Maybe so, but it sure made for some awesome pictures... not as good as "Deez Nuts", but I digress Feeling bad for "talking trash" as I usually do not do that (ask @Shrike, I believe it was, about how much trash talking I do about beers lol). The honest truth is I expected OSU to beat us that night. I had already counted it as one of the at least 3 losses I projected for the season. I personally thought Baker was crazy to come back another season after losing Westbrook, Mixon and Perine. Crazy, but with a Heisman I guess I'm just happy to be in the Playoffs. What will happen will happen. Alrighty, sorry for going off topic there y'all
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    Yes, the Bleeding Buckeye recipe comes from Elevator Brewing Co. Here in Columbus Ohio. And it is one they have in production and do retail it. I agree with ya Creeps on your thought process about not entering it into a competition.
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    I have an American Porter standard that I made with the booster only. It's at 8 weeks in the bottle now. I had one last night and it is pretty good, so I can only imagine what the SWOS is like.
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    Excellent descriptions of your preferences. Now is the time to review the available MrBeer refills. Make them straight up to compare against your list. Afterwards, you'll have an idea how to modify the basic kits to brew your clones.
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    As a Wisconsinite whose first word were reported to be "Blatz Beer" AND a grad from the University of Wisconsin-Madison, I have been trained well. I even beat a Russian and (at the time) an East German in a beer chugging contest. I finished before the other had eve finished half of their liter . The total number of beers have ranged from a hell of a lot of Natty Lite to about 15 or so liters Oktoberfest when I lived in Munich and spent most of the afternoon and evening imbibing. As well, 6-7 of the classic Lenten beer of Germany would make any one go to sleep. Still, if 91 beers were to be consumed in a day, I would give up any pretense to the throne! I will admit, I rarely have 91 beers in my lagerhaus ready to consume, but say 60 or so is readily doable. Pros't!
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    Counting all the brew I have bottled, ounce for ounce, it's exactly 91 beers! I currently have 3 empty fermenters, and recipes on the shelf. I think I need to drink some before I make anymore. I'm running out of places to store it.
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    So despite there being some evidence that my yeast had gotten going again, the gravity never moved much. I raised the temperature into the 70s and everything. I bottled about 2 weeks ago, and this one has me nervous. All the bottles are tight to where I can barely dent them, and every single bottle has sediment like a trub bottle. It wasn't sweet at all at bottling however. At any rate, I'm keeping theae out in the garage, and I'm drinking them ALL at 4 weeks, unless it stabilizes.
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    Lactose is added at end of boil.... generally at flameout but sometimes you can add in last 10-15 min.
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    I'm a beer lightweight, usually having only one or two a day. But after dinner I switch to whiskey, and well, I can drink some whiskey. What's the Lynyrd Skynyrd line, "...and I drink enough whiskey to float a battleship around." 😀
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    🎶🎵🎶🎵 91 bottles of beer on the wall, 91 bottles of beer!🎵🎵🎶🎶🎵
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    Not saying I just drink 12oz. I meant to say numerous different tasting brews in one sitting is to my liking.
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    I NEVER drink just 12 ounces, that's why I like the larger bottles. Not saying I won't use standard glass bottles at some point. I have a few swing tops I scavenged. I like them.
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    still waiting for you to throw one up............so to speak
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    The Chocolate Stout is wonderful, however, the five bottles which coffee concentrate were added to have to be named Black Coffee Stout. The 1 tbsp of coffee concentrate has overpowered the other flavours in the beer and dominates so much that the beer has the flavor of a cup of black Joe. It is different and strong, but I notice that I kept returning to my glass for another slip of the strange bitter brew, until it was gone.
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    It's probably not going to make it for Christmas, but tonight after 2 weeks in the fermenter I add the mulling spices to the Mr Beer -Yule Like This Ale- then another week in the fermenter. Obviously I do not think far enough ahead.
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    I tend to agree that after a couple days from capping, upending gently makes the sugar a little more easier for the yeast to handle. consider too that after fermentation they might get a little tired or lazy. any time my bottles were really slow to firm up, upending remedied it for me. again though whatever works for the brewer... another thing that helps is raising the ambient air temp a little.
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    I made one with Aztek using limes and it was light tasting like one of the lime flavored beers. Mr Beer's fermentables - Malt packs all add about 1% ABV and the booster packs about 0.65% each so it makes the result easy to compute - and you can mix and match for desired flavor/color combination. I used the Aztek, with 12 oz Booster (2 packs Mr Beer's fermentable sugar mix with no flavor - adds about 1.2% - you can add more for more ABV) and the grated zest and juice of 2 limes. One lime would be OK too. So this was a fairly light refreshing beer. For adding 2% ABV add 3 booster packs. Rick Beer I think prefers the maltier beer, but sometimes I like them less malty and this worked. If you like them meltier and want to add 2%, use 2 packs of the Mr Beer Pale Liquid Malt extract to add 2%. You could use the dried extract (DME) but is more trouble. (Try that some time later after you are comfortable with the process.) For the lime, I washed them, then grated the outside green part off only (avoid the white part) and squeezed the juice, and I added that to the water and boiled for a couple minutes to sterilize before I put in the Aztek Extract. You can put the limes in a hop bag if you want, to prevent bits getting in the beer or the spigot (take it out before bottling) If you use Booster or Dry malt, put it into the water to dissolve when the water is cool and stir constantly while heating. It may clump but eventually it will dissolve. Then at boiling you can sterilize the limes, then take off the heat and add the liquid malt. You can put sugar or honey in recipes, but it is usually added for a specific purpose in how you want the beer to turn out, rather than as a generic fermentable. The Mr. Beer Booster is a combination of sugars to imitate the sugars in malt but without adding color or flavor. Have fun :-D
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    If there is residue, then the yeast is eating the sugar, and producing CO2 as a result. Patience