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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/06/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    MRB Tim

    Making a java or coffee stout

    You have a great sense of timing, we just posted a new blog about that: https://www.mrbeer.com/blog/brew-beer-with-coffee/
  2. 3 points
    Shrike

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    Here's the description of red wheat flakes from the MRB site: "Flaked Wheat greatly increases body and head retention in most any beer. Use in small quantities to prevent haze. Use 1-4 oz in ales, 2-6 oz in wheat beers." When I started getting into PM brews I sat down and read the descriptions of every grain that MRB sells (along with all of their hops). If you've got the time, I recommend it. Pour a home brew and expand your knowledge of grains used in brewing. You'll start to see why certain grains are used with certain styles of beer. And even better, you'll start to think about crafting your own PMs using grains that'll compliment certain HMEs. That becomes helpful when you start having leftover grains from recipes that only use two ounces of a four ounce package of grain. Feel free to bookmark the recipe. Here's a link to the original post about it, and how I came up with its name, "Crafty Bitch".
  3. 3 points
    RickBeer

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    Make sure if you're going to build an inventory that you think it through first. For example, lay out a list of X recipes in the next Y months, and figure out the things you might need. Yeast and hops are perishable, but stored properly can keep well. Always buy from a known supplier, and if you can specify on the yeast (newest batch possible). I bought a bunch of stuff in 2016. Then in 2017 I went and got a brewing education and didn't brew for a year. When I resumed in Spring 2018, some yeast was long in the tooth. Proper storage (frig) meant they were all viable.
  4. 3 points
    MRB Tim

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    Hey Mic, S-33 and US-05 are about as different as you can get. S-33 is a very low attenuator, meaning it leaves a relatively high amount of residual sugar. so you'll lose a lot of sweetness with US-05. That's neither a good nor a bad thing, it just depends on what you like.
  5. 3 points
    Bonsai & Brew

    Saison de Frais

    Bottled at FG 1.002 and 8.3% ABV.
  6. 2 points
    RickBeer

    What does extra yeast do?

    YEAST KILLER!
  7. 2 points
    Bonsai & Brew

    5.3

    This is what your mash pH should be to maximize amylase enzymatic efficiency, reduce astringency, improve clarity, increase hop utilization and prevent off-flavors. I have never measured mine. Cheers.
  8. 2 points
    scouterbill

    5.3

    Not to mention having a clearer complexion, brighter smile, and fuller hair! 🤣
  9. 2 points
    Shrike

    What does extra yeast do?

    I've done 52 batches and never re-pitched. I've had a couple of batches where there was practically no sign of krausen and the only indication of activity was trub at the bottom of the LBK. I never pitched more yeast and each batch turned out fine. ETA: I imagine this is the genesis of RickBeer's Rule of STOP LOOKING! If you use good yeast, they're doing their job. The only thing peeking does is make the brewer worry.
  10. 2 points
    RickBeer

    What does extra yeast do?

    I have never had to repitch yeast in 128 batches. Not once.
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    Bonsai & Brew

    5.3

    Mash pH is something that I have not paid a lot of attention to and figured it's time to start tweaking my mash-in-sack process. Improved efficiency would certainly be the prime objective but I'm also curious how/if maintaining the proper mash pH affects the finished beer. I feel like I'm starting over with my all-grain evolution, but that is the price of progress. Also, I've been playing around with the idea of brewing classic styles using appropriate water profiles. I've known for awhile that my water is naturally well suited for Munich Dunkel, Schwarzbier, etc., but because of high alkalinity/bicarbonate, I'll need to dilute that out before building other profiles with brewing salts. Like you suggested, we may as well control what we can in our brew process and hope for better beer!
  13. 2 points
    Cato

    What does extra yeast do?

    I think the MB yeast is 5 or 5.5 grams designed for their 2 gal kits where the other yeasts like Safale etc. are for 5gal and 11g
  14. 2 points
    Mic Todd

    What does extra yeast do?

    with or without the foil?
  15. 2 points
    I still have 9 bottles of Belgian Spiced Ale (the 2013 Winter Season Ale) brewed in September of 2016. The last one that I tried (about a month ago) was still amazing. It all depends on the style. An IPA that old wouldn't taste anything like it did after 4-6 weeks, if it was even worth drinking at all.
  16. 2 points
    Nickfixit

    Yeast pack

    A simple way to give CAL a bit more heft (assuming it already has booster or LME/DME added to get ~ 4.5% + ABV (Refill kits) is to add 0.5 oz hops pellets in a hop bag at flameout. Cascade works well for me. If you like more hops, add another 0.5 oz in a sterilized bag for the last week before bottling too. That simple add makes a lot of difference. It is also a good way to test new hops you do not know as the HME is light enough not to mask the hop too much.
  17. 1 point
    JRCasualBrewer

    Bottle didn’t carbonate

    Mic Todd i don’t recall getting distracted but I can’t guarantee I didn’t. I know I was struggling with the wet spoon (from sanitizing). Fingers crossed.
  18. 1 point
    Shrike

    Bottle didn’t carbonate

    I "re-carb" beers quite often: thoroughly wash hands, unscrew cap, drop in two Domino's Dots, re-cap. If you're using regular sugar, sanitize whatever utensils you'll be using that will come into contact with the sugar or bottle.
  19. 1 point
    Shrike

    Making a java or coffee stout

    I use espresso-ground coffee and cold-steep it overnight. I add one shot to each bottle at bottling. To me the espresso grind gives a better coffee flavor.
  20. 1 point
    Mic Todd

    Bottle didn’t carbonate

    I can't speak specifically to this but in my 1st-ever batch, I too was disappointed in the carbonation - until I realized (learned from guys here) that I was conditioning them in too cool and environment (~65F). Once I moved the bottles out into the warmer areas of my home (72F) the carbonation began in earnest. For that reason, I gave the bottles an extra week of conditioning (4 weeks) before I set them to age in the cooler area. Result was very satisfactory. The beer had pretty good head and definitely was more carbonated than I thought. Also, the longer they sat (after the 4 weeks) the better they carbonated. You could try that. Don't give up on it, tho. 😃
  21. 1 point
    Cato

    5.3

    That residual alkalinity might be the signature award winning ingredient for Stauhaus Biers!
  22. 1 point
    D Kristof

    5.3

    Shhhhhhh. LOL. @Bonsai & Brew, I use Wally's bottled spring water at $0.88/ gallon and an acid rest while mashing. Using ph strips to measure, I've always been in the range of 5.3 to 5.4 without making any chemical alterations to the water.
  23. 1 point
    Shrike

    longest you have let bottles sit?

    I have seven bottles left of Lock, Stock, & Bourbon Barrel Stout that I bottled 25 months ago. Those are my oldest.
  24. 1 point
    Cato

    longest you have let bottles sit?

    My dark beers with higher gravity condition the longest. I've tried them at 4 weeks, 6 weeks, 8 weeks, but 3-4 months has been more the sweet spot for those. My IPA and pale ales that are a bit hop forward I'll start on as soon as they carb up, which is about 3 weeks. Their best when the hops are fresh.
  25. 1 point
    Bonsai & Brew

    Saison de Frais

    I did add the Sorachi Ace dry-hop per @Creeps McLane's recommendation for that extra bit of 🍋🍋🍋 flavor and aroma.
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