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  1. 24 likes
    Partial Mash Brewing: Are you looking to step up your brewing game with some grains? It's not too difficult and extra grains will add a lot more dimension and complexity to your brews. You will also have more creative control of your recipes which will truly make them your own. Here's a short primer on how grains are used in what's known as "partial mash" brewing. If you're just getting into using grains, this should help you out. If you've been using grains for awhile, perhaps you'll still find some helpful tips here. First, I want to explain the difference between steeping and mashing. From a procedural standpoint, steeping and mashing both involve soaking crushed grains in water. But when mashing, you have a more narrow range of temperatures and grain-to-water ratios to work within. Steeping Grains: You can steep specialty grains at almost any temperature, from the temperature of your water right out of the tap to nearly boiling. To be safe, it’s probably best not to let your steeping temperature climb above 170 F, especially when you’re steeping a small amount of grain in a relatively large volume of water. This may extract excess tannins and give your beer a slight iced-tea-like character. When specialty grains are steeped, the color and flavors from their husks are dissolved into the water. Likewise, any sugars from the interior of the grains are also dissolved. If a grain has a starchy interior, it should be mashed rather than steeped (see list below). Cold Steeping: Another method that is gaining traction for some styles of beer is cold steeping. Roasted grains such as Black Patent or chocolate malt are crushed and then steeped in cold water overnight. This allows the extraction of color and some flavor, but it reduces some of the harsher flavors that may not be appropriate such as tannins, which can create an undesirable astringent or bitter taste in your beer. This method works well with black IPA’s (also known as Cascadian Dark Ales) that want the color, and to a lesser degree the flavor additions, without the burnt acrid flavors that some of the darker roast malts can impart. If the roasted flavor additions are just as important as the color addition, you will need to increase the amount of steeping addition by at least half, if not more. Mashing Grains: Temps and Times: When base grains, or a mixture of base grains and specialty grains, are mashed, the temperature is usually held between 148 F and 165 F. Lower temperatures within this range and longer mash times (60–90 minutes) produce wort with a high degree of fermentability. Higher temperatures within this range and shorter mash times, followed by a mash out, make worts with a lower degree of fermentability. A "mash out" is a step in which the grains are heated, by direct heat or by adding hot water, to 168-170F after the mash. For most mashes with a ratio of 1.5 - 2 quarts of water per pound of grain, the mash out is not needed. (There are more complex mash programs, such as step mashing and decoction, but partial mash recipes rarely call for these. Almost all partial mash recipes call for a single infusion mash.). Grain to Water Ratio: In a mash, the volume of water is limited so that the grains make something similar to a porridge. Generally, the mash thickness varies between 1.0 and 2.5 quarts of water per pound of grain. A mash thickness of 1.25 qts/lb is frequently used in homebrewing as it is fairly thick and therefore you can mash a lot of grains in a relatively small volume. Thinner mashes are often used when the mash needs to be stirred, or for decoction mashing. For most partial mash procedures, anywhere within this range will work. I usually mash at 1.375 qts/lb in a partial mash, because this allows me to stir the grains easily when they are enclosed in a steeping bag. Malts that Should be Mashed (Base Malts): These malts are mostly lightly kilned (with brown malt as an exception), contain starchy interiors and sufficient enzymes to (at a minimum) convert their own starches into sugars. 2-row pale malt - this can come from the US, UK, Scottland, Belgium, Australia or other countries, and may sometimes be labeled with the name of the malting barley variety (Maris Otter, Golden Promise or Optic) 2-row brewers malt 2-row lager malt 6-row pale malt 6-row brewers malt Pilsner malt Vienna malt Munich malt wheat malt rye malt rauchmalz (smoked malt) acidulated malt mild ale malt amber malt brown malt honey malt aromatic/melanoidin biscuit/Victory some dextrin malts Flaked malts such as corn, wheat, rye, barley, rice, rye, etc. must be mashed with an equal amount of 2-row for proper conversion. These grains do not have the enzymes to convert the starches to sugars and will need the 2-row for assistance. Malts That Can be Steeped (Specialty Grains): These malts do not have starchy interiors, either because the starches have been converted to sugars (in the case of stewed malts) or degraded by roasting. These malts can be steeped or mixed with base grains and mashed. Stewed malts - including crystal malts, (most) caramel malts, most Cara [something] malts, including Briess Carapils (but not every dextrin-type malt), Special B malts Roasted malts (and grains) - including black malt, chocolate malt, roasted barley, dark wheat malts, Weyermann Carafa malts peat-smoked malt A more complete listing can be found here: http://beersmith.com/grain-list/ Using Grains With Mr. Beer: You don't need a lot of grain to enhance your Mr. Beer recipes. As little as 2-4 oz can make a huge difference in a 2 gallon batch. Most grains that are considered "base malts", such as 2-row and 6-row aren't really needed in our kits because they won't add much to the beer other than a small amount of ABV. There are some exceptions to this such as wheat malt, which can be used as a base malt and as a specialty malt (adds head retention and body when used as a specialty malt). Some of the other base malts that can be used as specialty malts include honey malt, rye malt, rauschmalz, the toasted malts such as Biscuit and Victory, and kilned malts such as Vienna and Munich. Remember that when using any of these malts, they must be mashed rather than steeped. No more than 8 oz should be used in the Mr. Beer kits. Specialty grains such as the "cara" malts (Carapils, Carafoam, Carastan, etc.), dark malts, and crystal malts will not add ABV, but they will add body, flavor, and/or color. The cara malts will add body and some flavor. They will also help with head retention. Dark malts will add mostly color and roasted/chocolate/coffee flavors. Crystal malts will add some color (they range from Crystal 10 - Crystal 120, or from lightest to darkest respectively), but they will also add flavor and sweetness due to the caramelized, unfermentable sugars in the malt (these are also sometimes known as "caramel malts"). All of these grains can be steeped instead of mashed, or they can be mixed with some base grains for mashing. No more than 4 oz of specialty malts are needed for most recipes. Other non-malt adjuncts that are commonly used in addition to barley and wheat grains are oats, corn, and rice. These should make up no more than 10% of your total recipe. The total amount of malts/adjuncts recommended for use in our 2 gallon batches should be no more than 1lb. NOTE: Any flaked ingredient must be mashed with an equal amount of 2-row for proper starch conversion. While our Brewing Extracts make great beer, additional steeping/mashing grains will make it even better. By adding more depth and complexity to your beer using grains, you more creative control of your recipes, and a lot more room to improve or enhance them to your liking. Step-By-Step Partial Mash Instructions: Extra Equipment needed: Bowl for mixing grains. (Not necessary if working with only 1 grain style.) Thermometer (We sell them on our website here: http://www.mrbeer.com/accessories/brewing-utensils/temperature-control) Colander or strainer 1 Cup of water for rinsing grains Scale (Optional. See #2 below.) Brewing: 1. Bring 4-8 cups water to about 150 F. The amount of water will depend on the amount of grains you have and the size of pot you use. It is recommended that you don't use anything larger than 6 qts when doing PM recipes with our kits. You want the water to just cover the grains. If it doesn't, it won't hurt to add more water. 2. While your water is heating up, weigh and mix all of your grains in a bowl (This isn't necessary if working with only 1 grain type) and add to your muslin sack. Do NOT tie the sack too tightly. Try to leave as much space as possible for the grains to move around. NOTE: If you do not have a scale, simply split the grains the best you can. It doesn't have to be perfect. Most recipes will call for 2-4 oz of each grain. Since the bags come in 4 oz, you would simply have to split it in half visually for any recipe calling for 2 oz. 3. Once your water has reached 150 F, add the grain sack. Keep raising the temp until you reach around 160. Try to stay within 155 - 170 for 30 minutes, stirring the bag of grains around every few minutes. Using a lid might help to keep your temps consistent, especially if using gas burners. Going over 170 for too long can cause the malt to release astringent tannin into your beer. 4. After 30 minutes, remove your thermometer, and with a large spoon, carefully lift the grains into a colander or strainer. 5. With 1 cup of hot water (hot from the tap is fine), slowly rinse the grains. Then let them sit for about a minute to drain. Once drained, discard the grains (Or use them for chicken feed, bread, etc.). 6. At this point, you will bring the water to a boil and brew just like a normal Mr. Beer kit: Bring your water to a boil. Add any hops, if called for. Remove from the heat and add your extract. Mix well, add to your fermenter into the 4 liters of water. Top it off to the #2 mark (or 8.5 Liters if using the old LBKs) and stir well. Pitch yeast and wait! Please keep in mind when purchasing grains separately that they DO NOT include muslin sacks. You can purchase them here: http://www.mrbeer.com/muslin-hop-sack Please feel free to point out any errors or typos I may have made. Cheers!
  2. 9 likes
    Tasted the 1st one of these beers and I can say even at 4 weeks that this is one of the best I've made. I'm impressed, this beer is plain ol delicious!
  3. 9 likes
    Both of those yeasts are rated down to 48F. I think you're confusing the difference between fermentation and conditioning. Many people seem to think that there's only value in conditioning at temperatures where yeast are active. But that's not true, whether we are using ale yeast or lager yeast. Even at temperatures lower than the rated fermentation temperatures, the yeast continue to work, but very slowly. 4 steps Fermentation is the process where yeast converts sugars to alcohol (also co2,but most of this off gasses). Carbonation is when the yeast eat sugars and convert them to co2 (and a small amount of alcohol). Warm conditioning is when fermentation and carbonation are done, but the beer is at a temperature when the yeast is still active. Cold conditioning happens at temperatures where the yeast is not very active. But even at refrigerator temperatures, ale yeast will be a little active, but much less active. Food spoils more slowly in the refrigerator, but it still spoils. Same concept. But other things are happening, as well. There are biological changes and chemical changes.
  4. 7 likes
    Question - Do you think about brewing beer more than you think about sex? If so you are addicted. If not, you are not quite there yet.
  5. 6 likes
    So here you see the dilemma. I recommend the long established 3-4 that brewers on this forum developed via trial and error years back. Then BDawg62 recommends 3 weeks. Who's right? Both of us. Remember, beer is tasted by people. Your expertise, and ability to taste differs from every other human being on the planet. In fact, there are people that are genetically predisposed to discern (or not) certain flavors. Let me state that clearer - some people have an inability to taste certain things, and others have an overly sensitive taste for certain things. I know an expert - an Advance Cicerone (there are 80 in the world and only 16 Master Cicerones) that has an inability to detect a skunked beer (3-MBT, a chemical created by ultraviolet light when a beer is exposed to sun or ultraviolet light). Most people notice it immediately. When driving down the road, if a skunk sprays, my friend says "who is roasting coffee out here?", because that is how they detect that smell. So what you think is a good beer I may think is a bad beer. Or vice-versa. That variation in ability to taste, combined with expertise, combined with preferences, make this a hobby where a rank amateur can brew a fairly good beer on their first few attempts, but an expert taster would list 20 flaws that the beer had. Who's right? Both of them. Why go 4 weeks? The issue here is that you are a new brewer. IMO, new brewers should follow established guidelines (notice my referenced post says guidelines, not rules). Why? Because if you don't, and your results taste lousy, then you'll quit the hobby. No one collects stats on the dropout rate in this hobby, but I believe it's well above nearly all other hobbies. There is zero reason for a new brewer to only go 3 weeks, assuming you eliminate the "well I want to see the change from 3 weeks to 4 weeks for myself". Few beers are better in 3 weeks than 4 weeks (a heavily dry-hopped beer would be one exception). As far as degrading over time, that's a fact. HOWEVER, 90%+ can't tell the difference. I'm down to 9+ cases of beer, having not brewed in a year, trying to use my inventory. My freshest beer was bottled last May. My oldest beer was bottled over 2 years ago. Tastes fine. Would it taste better fresh? Sure. But it tastes fine. A new brewer doesn't need to freak out about "old beer". Keep it in the basement, in a closed box or closet, and it's fine. Whatever fits in a frig is great, ONCE you reach the optimal conditioning time.
  6. 6 likes
    I carbonate every batch at 76 for 3 weeks then I store at my basement temps which are in the low 60s. I have goofed and had a batch get above 90 for a couple of days during carbonation (actually won a medal for that beer). Carbonation temps don't have the same effect on your beer that high fermentation temps do.
  7. 6 likes
    Well, don't tell Mini Yoda, or he'll wind up putting all these recipes in his annoying spreadsheet. um......wait.........um......nevermind
  8. 6 likes
    I hear you, but the trouble we run into with "that oughta be in the instructions" is that if we put everything about making beer in the instructions, they would be 200 pages long, while many people already don't read the 6- page foldout. It's kind of a catch-22 and it's a surprisingly difficult balancing act to do the most good for the most new brewers. As @RickBeer mentioned, the newest set of instructions will be clearer. Please keep the feedback coming, we're always looking to improve.
  9. 6 likes
    3-4 weeks for carbonation at around 65 - 70F. Then put them back in lager temps for conditioning. The basic rule of thumb is to condition at the same temperature you fermented.
  10. 5 likes
    So we are changing the schedule up a bit. We will now be airing Tues, Wed, Thurs. Friday was one of our lowest viewer counts probably because people are getting ready for their weekend so we are ditching Fridays for Thursdays instead. Today, we will be brewing The Standard Oktoberfest Lager refill and will be talking a little bit about the style. Please keep in mind that for some of you guys, the Tuesday streams may seem a bit repetitive, but these streams are intended for beginners and new viewers. With that said, please try to refrain from asking advanced questions in the chat on Tuesdays. Save those questions for the Wed or Thurs stream where we will have more time to answer them properly because the Beginner streams will only be 30 minutes long. But feel free to help out any of the newbies in the chat if I miss them or my answer needs a bit of elaboration that I can't offer in the video. We will be doing things a bit more casually and less structured going forward. Tomorrow we will be brewing the Surly Dog IPA and will talk about hop additions and how to choose hops for aroma, bitterness, etc.
  11. 5 likes
    They are all saved and will be uploaded soon. I'll try to get more info on that today.
  12. 5 likes
    Njaim, Glad to see you are not discouraged by a couple of bad batches.. The fallout rate for new brewers is very high. OK, now for some more advice. You said yourself that your first two batches "went south somewhere". The first batch probably was the lack of temperature control and the second was probably how the hops were added. In order to really improve your brewing, you need to follow some simple guidelines. pick a beer that you won't mind drinking a bunch of and make a batch of it. Follow all of the directions to the letter When it is ready try it and see how it turned out Note the flaws and either through research or forum advice, understand what went wrong. Brew the same beer again Only change what you did wrong (ie... Temperature to high) Note your process in detail. Follow these last 4 steps and after several batches following "your" process you should be making good beer. Now and only now should you experiment with hop boils, dry hoping and other changes. Remember, brewing is all about processes, there are no shortcuts. Dawg
  13. 5 likes
    when boiling wort: use a big enough pot. one that has about 4 or 5 " of headspace or more. bring water to near boil.. remove from heat. have someone pour in lme while you stir. make sure it is fully mixed in before returning to heat. not doing the above can cause bottom scorching.. and boil overs. have a clean spray bottle of mineral water on hand set to fine mist. if you see the wort boil starting to gain in foamy hot break material, give the surface of the wort a good spritzing. it will cool the surface and break the bubbles up. be ready to carefully remove it from heat if it gets out of control. more headspace gives you more time to react. do NOT boil hopped malt ie mr beer cans. boiling drives out the hop goodness they worked to put into it. when you add your hops, if using pellets be prepared for foaming action. also a bunch of skeeze will float on the surface for awhile... this is normal. you may also see oil like stuff on top when the foam drops. also normal. when i am done with the boil, i try to cool the wort as fast as possible. put the pot in a clean sink filled with ice water. small pots will try to float. keep it steady. or use a wort chiller. if you can knock the heat down to about 100f when you add it to the cold water in the lbk you might end up close to pitching temp. as mentioned, when doing boils never let yourself be distracted. boil overs are an absolute horror to clean up. even if you are certain the hotbreak action has settled down and that the temperature of the boil is a happy controlled temperature... watch it. make sure when boiling that your dog, kids, wife, curious onlookers etc are leaving you alone to focus. hot wort makes serious third degree burns. for the mr beer kits with an lme boil you dont need to boil for an hour. you can do a 15 minute boil of the lme with your hops.. .depends on how much hop you want to add and if you are doing it for flavor/aroma or bittering. you also need less water than when doing a full boil or a bigger kit.
  14. 5 likes
    The wife baked some raspberry short bread cookies and I broke the seal on the Basic Chocolate Stout, this was the trub bottle. And the cookies were great....... and so is the stout. It is so different from the sample taken during the bottling, the cherry taste is gone and the chocolate has really come through. The chocolate taste is like a milk chocolate and the stout has silky smooth mouth feel to it. So far I think this is a great success, This was the trub bottle and I know the favor could be slightly different, but here to hoping it is not.
  15. 5 likes
    If you've done some of the PM recipes from Mr. Beer and still find them meh, you might have some pretty high expectations. It really depends on what you mean by "eye-popping" and "mouthwatering". To me, that sounds like a flavorful beer in terms of malt and hops. If it's ABV that causes the aforementioned effects, maybe you try some of the bigger beer recipes Mr. Beer has to offer. Going off the beaten path to make a high-ABV concoction usually doesn't end well. You will have a beer with a lot of bite but little taste. One thing I've learned to appreciate is a brewer's ability to mask the alcohol bite with a great malt backbone and a bouquet of hops. I recommend doing a little research on a clone of a commercial beer that makes your eyes water and mouth pop. You can usually assimilate a recipe using Mr. Beer ingredients. In the end, do what makes you happy. Live and learn. You may just stumble upon a great recipe. Just make sure to keep thorough notes.
  16. 4 likes
    Dang, missed it again. Hmm, I thought interruption of streams was only a problem that us old folks tend to get.
  17. 4 likes
    dont boil hme. you drive off everything mr beer worked to put into it like hop essence. if you are doing a hop boil, you need some dme or one of the mr beer LME (unhopped) pouches to boil with the hops. if you just boiled hops and water you made nothing more than hop tea. i tried it once. epic fail. hops need malt in a boil to do their magic. sour and tart are often used interchangeably. wheat beers are naturally tart to a degree. my first impression of wheat was ick...sour. i grew to love them. if you are deliberately making a sour and using something like brett c , then yes.... that fermenter will need to be used for nothing but sours usually. brett is a hardy yeast and will find any scratches or nicks to hide it so ive read. it is doubtful that you had a wort infection. i think you would know. lacto bacillus makes great snotty filmy bubbles that eventually form a pellicle. acetobacter would turn your beer into vinegar. brett also makes a pellicle. mashani ( a former member here ) reported that he has colonies of brett in his AC ducts. just about every other beer ends up a sour for him , which he liked so .... if you just boiled hops in water then dumped in the hme, that's probably impacting the flavor negatively. if you boiled the hme, that could have some negative flavor impact too. next weiss, try boiling less hops like a .25 oz with one pouch of lme golden from mr beer. flame out and remove from heat. add hme and stir in to mix. if you want to dry hop for aroma, put hops in a hop sock on the last week of fermentation. add the sanitized hop sock of hops to the lbk. if you want to get better extraction make sure the hop sock sinks. you can do this by sanitizing a heaviy glass shotglass and adding that to the hop sock with the hops to weigh it down. some use glass marbles that they sanitize. the only molasses smells i ever got in beer were with us04 when i used brown sugar in the beer. the yeast eats the sucrose and leaves behind the molasses. i ended up with a licorice stout.
  18. 4 likes
    Nope. HME is always added to the water after removal from heat, and is never boiled. Mr. Beer's LME pouches are done in the same manner, UNLESS you're doing a hop boil, in which case you need WORT to boil your hops. Sometimes that's simply steeped grain water, sometimes steeped grain water with LME, and sometimes just LME. It's fine to boil LME (or DME), the only impact is the maillard effect, which darkens the wort. Bulk LME or DME should ALWAYS be boiled! Just like steeped grain water (after removal of the grains). Why? To kill bugs. Grains aren't sanitary, and bulk DME / LME may not be depending on how it is stored. I buy bulk LME at my LHBS from a 55 gallon drum, it pours out of a big handle into my non-sanitary container. The handle has gooped LME all over it, which of course is likely growing things. Boiling kills all that. When adding DME or LME to a pot of water, the pot should ALWAYS BE REMOVED FROM THE STOVE. And, there's no reason that it be boiling before adding, simply hot to dissolve the LME or DME (or in DME's case, some use cold water and stir while heating) and then boiled. If you add LME to a pot on a hot stove, you can scorch it, and that batch is toast. Ask me how I know...
  19. 4 likes
    Boiling wort is a staring contest. Whoever blinks first wins. What I mean by that is that: you can watch your boil and everything will be fine, but the moment you turn your back or look away you will have a boil over! If you watch it the whole time you win because it never boils over.
  20. 4 likes
    The Chocolate Stout is wonderful, however, the five bottles which coffee concentrate were added to have to be named Black Coffee Stout. The 1 tbsp of coffee concentrate has overpowered the other flavours in the beer and dominates so much that the beer has the flavor of a cup of black Joe. It is different and strong, but I notice that I kept returning to my glass for another slip of the strange bitter brew, until it was gone.
  21. 4 likes
    You make it in any amount, in the ratio they describe, which is 1 ounce per 5 gallons. There are 6 TEASPOONS in an ounce. So, if you want to use 1 gallon of water, you would use 1.2 teaspoons, or 1.25 since you probably have a 1 teaspoon and a 1/4 teaspoon. I store mine in a 1 gallon milk container. You can store it in a bucket, just watch for condensation on the lid molding. You can use it until the pH hits 3 or higher. Without a pH meter or strips, figure about 4 - 6 weeks. Since that gallon costs around $0.10, I toss mine after 6 weeks. Remember it is acid based. I had a nice pair of chrome tongs I used, that I would plop in the bucket my whole brewing day. They de-chromed. I got them replaced by the manufacturer, but now I just dunk them as needed. Ideally, stainless tools would be better. Don't fear the foam! Foam is good. Never rinse it off.
  22. 4 likes
    Time will do you a good benefit of developing nice mellow flavors and getting rid of off tastes. However, time also reduces the freshness of hop taste and aroma and that of some other flavorings. So you will see written that hoppy beers are best drunk young to get the best hop aroma and taste. I have experienced this from what I brewed as I usually sample the beer as soon as it is carbonated, at intervals from sometimes as low as a week to a month or more for first sample. Then I spread out the consumption over months, interspersing a variety of styles in the drinking queue from my pipeline. The longer you leave the beers, I think the better the rounded flavors and maltiness develops. So you have to try tasting at different points and see at what point the beer suits your taste. For example with one vanilla porter I made the vanilla seemed quite harsh until 4 months had passed when it was much nicer. I think from his comments, Rick Beer favors maltiness, so for him especially, longer maturation times will bring out that characteristic. You will have to experiment, guided by the comments in the forum and find what is your optimum. I will say that I do also enjoy the variation in tastes as my beers mature, so at different times they are like somewhat different brews although just changed over time.
  23. 3 likes
    Personally ive never seen a 10 degree rise. Maybe 3-4 max. Im usually fighting to raise my temps as high as possible for my saisons. Now having an LBK overflow, that’s possible with any batch. But if you brew in fear, youll never become a brewing guru.
  24. 3 likes
    For those disappointed by the short sale - look at this at Target https://www.target.com/bp/Mr. Beer St P's Stout $13.99 Oktoberfest Lager $11.79 Free shipping over $35. I missed the Mr. B sale but I got 2 St Ps and an Oktoberfest here with free ship. for $42. Avg. $14 per can. Mind you these probably come with no booster or LME. So that lessens the deal. But I am happy with this.
  25. 3 likes
    Not only do I live in a 175 year old house, we have cats. I use foil caps over each bottle to keep anything airborne out. The foil caps are only large enough to cover the top of the bottles and snug down the sides to hold them in place. I sanitize and cover. I remove the cap to put the conditioning/carb tablets in and recover. After setting the stage I get the LBK and bottling wand set up and begin bottling. I remove the foil cap, fill then recover with the foil cap. Doing it this way also shortens the length of time my bottling wand is exposed. The filled, foil covered, and still uncapped bottles are placed into cardboard 6 pack cartons. As I cap, I pull out a bottle, remove the foil cover, cap then set it back into the six pack carton. Most 1/2 liter bottles will also still fit into the 6 pack pockets.
  26. 3 likes
    why do you use aluminum foil? I have a system i have one of those pepsi trays that holds bottles i got from a gas station just ask, many times theyll give you a couple just to get them out of their way, I set all my bottles up in the tray and then put all my carb drops in and only then do i take the keg out this way it is bottle after bottle and there is no time for it to warm up and yes u am using a wand now. The ray also come super useful in conditioning storage
  27. 3 likes
    I bottle and cover them with foil, then cap. My last bottle is always a clear 12 oz. Coke bottle.
  28. 3 likes
    Patience BDawg. Don't forget patience. Too many try to rush through the process. Too many try to skip steps in learning the process. (editors note: dkristof1007 is trying to emulate RickBeer and simultaneously poke the bear)
  29. 3 likes
    Nah, that's nothing to worry about. Burleywine and Lock/Stock recipes both have more malt than that. Just keep the temp at the low end of the recommended range.
  30. 3 likes
    understood. I can relate, since I work for the military BTW, if anyone has questions about an up-coming topic, and can't make to see the show, feel free to post them here. I'm sure Josh would be happy to make note of them and answer them here, and on the show. Yoda
  31. 3 likes
    I can ask my "Pride of Ringwood" hops question!!!
  32. 3 likes
    i tried a bottle of churchill after 4 weeks 3 days. pretty darn good! still has a bit of that sharpness. i'll wait until 6 weeks and try again
  33. 3 likes
    Batch # 2 Horses ass in bottle. I think I am addicted. LOL!
  34. 3 likes
    Friday we will be brewing a Coopers kit. This isn't technically an Advanced show, but we will have a special guest coming in from Coopers Brewery in AU to chat with us so we're going to feature a Coopers kit. Thanks for the suggestions!
  35. 3 likes
    Yes. We will be archiving them. The Twitch site has a way to do it so that you can watch past episodes. I just don't think we have the function turned on yet because the last 2 episodes were mainly tests. I'll ask RickZ about it today.
  36. 3 likes
    Jim, You can use the old yeast packs for many things. First of all, keep them stored in the refrigerator to preserve them and they should remain viable for about 2 years. 1. You can use them to ferment cider, mead, other beers 2. You can add them to your water that you boil to be used as yeast nutrient, boiling them will kill them and then the yeast you pitch will feed on them. 3. Just hang onto them as a backup in the event you find that you have a bad pack of yeast and of course the LHBS is closed. Use these in this type of emergency. Dawg
  37. 3 likes
    Ummmmm, when exactly did Miller become beer?
  38. 3 likes
    6 pm tomorrow. Its going down @Bonsai & Brew. Im freaking jacked up. My dad will be brewing with me also. Thats a first. Wish us luck
  39. 3 likes
    I'd use the Belgian Blanc as a starting point:https://www.mrbeer.com/belgian-blanc-recipe It's not exactly the same, but it's along the same lines. The Sam Adams has Grains of Paradise seeds as well, if you wanted to get fancy. For partial mash I'd add 2-row and white wheat. Apparently they use Citra hops, as well, so you might want to add those instead of Hallertau. Note: I haven't had this particular beer, but I've had many like it, so this is research-based, not experience based. You'd have to dial it in a little over a few batches.
  40. 3 likes
    Wait wait wait... dark room, flash light behind fermenter. Untouched cold crashing and gelatin
  41. 3 likes
    depends on who is saying it... 3/2/2 - 3 weeks ferment, 2 weeks to carb, 2 weeks to condition. 3/4 same thing... 3 weeks ferment, 4 weeks to carb and condition. there's no real rule for conditioning. I drink mine at all stages of development. I think its a shame to leave a beer sit for a year because my taste buds aren't so developed that I can tell a difference between 3 months or a years rest on an average beer. if I was doing a Russian imperial stout or a high alcohol beer I tend to only go about 4-5 months before I start drinking them. this done only to mellow out fusels that might be there from the high alcohol content.
  42. 3 likes
    6-row is the best for this purpose - even better than 2-row (malted wheat is great, too), but in our recipes any basic 2-row pale malt will do (pilsen is typically a little lower in enzymes than regular 2-row). There is the possibility of us bringing in some 6-row and selling it with the flaked malts already mixed in. 6-row is the best for diastatic power, but it is much lower quality in terms of flavor contribution, but this can be a good thing if you're trying to bring out the flavors of certain flaked grains, such as rye.
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    AC, Flaked Corn, Wheat, Oats etc don't have the enzymes needed to convert the starches to sugar. If you are brewing an all grain batch there will be plenty of enzymes in the base grain you use. If you are doing a partial mash or steeping grains add an equal amount of 2 row or 6 row to convert the sugars. If you don't the starches will make your beer very cloudy and unstable. Dawg
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    Thanks guys! I have glanced at all the sites and forums, but will certainly read deeper into this. I am still a newbie only brewed like 12 batches now, but start mixing hops into some of the blends to get flavors that remind me of europe before i leave. I am currently experimenting with the Wiesbier now. Started with the normal recipe nothing added. Now making the wild wheat to see how that compares. I am also waiting on the Wild Wheat with Hollentrau hops to compare the tastes. Both were brewed at flameout. After I find a good wiesbeir replica, I am moving on to the Belgians because not being able to drive there and pick up the Trappist beers will be hard for me. Now, i now I wont be able to make make exacts, just looking for something the mimics (reminds) of a Belgian blonde, brun, and quad. Thanks again!
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    OK, let me try to clear up some of your confusion. There is no way to clear up your confusion, every beer will need a different length of time for conditioning. There are many factors that go into what effects conditioning time for a beer. 1. Your process - if you made any mistakes during brewing, ie... ferment too warm, pitch too warm, not enough oxygen in the wort. All of these can have a different effect on your beer and the time it takes to condition out these flaws. 2. The Original Gravity of the beer - higher gravity beers require more conditioning time (a 1.080 beer will need about 6 months) 3. The yeast you used - some yeast will put out flavor esters that depending on #1 above may or may not condition out. 4. The ingredients of the beer - too much here to even get into (spices and flavorings both add and subtract from conditioning time) To sum it all up do what I do. 1. Carbonate your beers in a warm spot (75 degrees) for 3 weeks. 2. Move your beers to a cool spot in your house (my basement right now is 59 degrees) 3. Put one in the fridge for 3 days and then taste the results. 4. If you are satisfied (rarely happens) then they are properly conditioned. 5. Continue step 3 at regular intervals. When you have a beer that is as good as you hoped and you have the refrigerator space, then put the balance of the batch in there and enjoy. If you don't have that refrigerator space, then know that they may improve more but they may also start to degrade. In any case it is time to drink them in earnest. Dawg
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    My first taste of Churchill's was after about 4 or 5 weeks in the bottle. I got that "sharp" taste too. I tasted a bottle a week later, much better. The sharpness was reduced and the roastiness was coming through nicely. I have one in fridge right now, about 6 or 7 weeks in the bottle. I may taste it tonight. I also found that, as you would expect,
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    I use a bit of twist push motion and it seats fairly securely. I have not had it block any flow. Its a simple yet very effective tool.
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    Great show again. I was going to mention to not open the lid of the LBK to check the temperature of the wort. Only open the lid if instructed to do so by the recipe (dry hop, etc). Future show could include the "tools of the trade". The whisk and/or silicone spatula are obvious, but you could demo the temperature controller when explaining Lagers. Also I think the plate heater is nice (better than a whole stove that I use). Also, perhaps a show on the different fermenters, including the 6 gallon one (triple your favorite recipe)
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    1 gallon/3.78541 liters/8 pints/128 oz
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    Well they say at SA, STYLE White Ale HOP VARIETIES Citra MALT VARIETIES Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, white wheat SPECIAL INGREDIENTS Coriander, orange peel, Grains of Paradise COLOR Golden, SRM: 7 ALC. BY VOL/WT 5.5%ABV –4.4%ABW IBUs 15 CALORIES 173 The Belgian Blanc is this: OG: 1.042 (approx.) -- FG: 1.011 (approx.) Suggested conditioning time is 2 to 4 weeks. Flavor: Balanced ABV (alc/vol): 4.2% SRM (Color): 4 IBU (Bitterness): 19 BJCP Style: 24. Belgian Ale - 24A. Belgian Witbier So it will be a bit more bitter. You can always add a little more malt or booster or something if you want to up the ABV to the SA amount. If you put in 4 oz each of the white wheat grains and the light 2 row, in the partial mash, you won't need more than another 4 oz (~ 1/2 pack of Golden DME) to get it there. For grains of paradise - I read A good substitute is half and half cardamom and white pepper corns whole grains cracked. ( If you use powder I would use less.). But they warn about using too much, 1g of GoP is plenty enough for 2 gal. I am not sure what that is in tsp but probably no more than 1/4 tsp of each of the subs. If you use fresh orange peel zest grated off I would not use more than one orange and if you use dried bitter orange peel, only a gram or less depending if you boil it - it is easy to get too much. I found that 1 fresh med orange zest was enough for me and I did not boil the fresh but just dropped it in at the end of the boil to sterilize in a bag. Last wit beers I made, I boiled this crushed coriander 2g, and dried bitter orange peel 1.5g for 15 min. removed the spices and the coriander was fine but it was too heavy on the bitter orange. So I could have boiled it less or used less in proportion of the peel. Next time I will. Anyone else used these and how much do you add?