bpgreen

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  1. You're joking, right? Or you're confusing Nottingham with Windsor. Nottingham ferments even more cleanly than US-05 (there is no S-05). And it does well at even lower temperatures. For a west coast style IPA or APA, I'd use Nottingham over US-05 any day (unless temperatures are above 65). The second one is a package of Munton's yeast. It's a general purpose yeast, like S-33 or Cooper's.
  2. It's over carbonated. Remove the co2 connector from it. Bleed off the excess using the release valve if it's a ball lock or a pin lock with a ball lock lid. Or just pour over carbonated beers until it goes down. Once it calms down, reconnect the co2.
  3. I don't post here often, but I think you're making a grave mistake. After I typed that, I realized that it could be literally true. Do a google search on something like malt extract bulging can. If the can is bulging, even a little bit, you could get botulism poisoning. If you boiled it for 5 minutes, the toxins will be destroyed but spores can still be alive. And you probably didn't boil it for 5 minutes. Botulism is potentially fatal. DON'T MESS AROUND! If there was enough pressure that some of it leaked out, it's almost certainly tainted. Never use any canned goods (not just Mr Beer, but ANY canned goods) that are bulging or dented at seams. Also, you mentioned that the date appeared to be altered. Did you buy this from Mr Beer directly, or did you buy it from some other source? I've read that there are Mr Beer cans with altered "Best By" dates being sold on Amazon by third party vendors. Please do yourself a favor and dump this batch. If you bought it from Mr Beer, contact their customer support. They may replace it for you even though you've already started the batch. If you bought it from Amazon, take a picture of the altered date and send it to them and ask for a refund. I'm not sure if it will work since you've opened the can, but it's worth a shot. Even if you don't get your money back, brewing and drinking this beer could cost you much more than throwing it out would. It's possible that you can brew the batch and not have any ill effects, but it's really not worth the risk. You do realize that that old Jack Benny sketch where a guy pulls a gun on him and says, "Your money or your life," followed by Jack stroking his chin and saying, "I'm thinking, I'm thinking" was intended as humor and not advice, right? I'm about as cheap as they come, but I once bought a bulk order of canned extract and threw out more than a hundred pounds of extract rather than take the risk of poisoning. The vendor refunded the money, but I would have thrown it out, anyway. And they didn't make me return the damaged cans, so I could have used them, but it wasn't worth the risk. Here's a link to an article about bulging cans. It's about food cans, but the concept is the same, since it's something you're consuming. http://www.livestrong.com/article/432937-what-should-you-do-with-a-can-of-food-that-is-bulging-out/
  4. I mostly just lurk here, but that is some of the worst advice I've ever seen. That's like saying that since you've played Russian Roulette and lived, that it's a fun game to play. I used to take the spigot off and clean it. Then somebody mentioned that it could be taken apart. I took one apart and was astonished/disgusted at the amount of mold inside. Take the spigot off, take it apart, clean it after every use. Leave it apart if you're not brewing soon. Sanitize it before using it again.
  5. Dogs will generally ignore hops on the bine. They're really only a danger when they're in with something that will interest them, like malt.
  6. Hops need LOTS of sun. Plant them in the sunniest spot you can find. If you think they'll struggle this summer, plant them in a pot and transplant next year.
  7. where have you been?  Do you not love us?  Ive been missing you...

    1. bpgreen

      bpgreen

      I don't think this forum is a good fit for me. The last time I bought any Mr Beer products was in 2010, so I've never used any of the current offerings. And I've also never used the yeast that is being shipped now, so I'm not familiar with its characteristics. 

       

      There are other things here that don't fit, as well. I still lurk, but probably won't post.

  8. Side note: Why boil hops in plain water, or water with tangerines? That really doesn't give you much. Long/technical post warning tl;dr: Most of what was posted above was incomplete and/or inaccurate. It's safe to use, but the "sanitizer" may not produce optimal results. Now for a more full explanation. First of all, why did I put sanitizer in quotation marks? Because for something to be labeled as a sanitizer, there are all of hoops to jump through and fees to be paid. If you look at the Mr Beer sanitizer packets, you'll see they're labeled cleaner. Does that mean that Mr Beer sanitizer doesn't sanitize? No. It just means it can't be labeled as a sanitizer. It used to be labeled as such, but they decided to stop jumping through all of the hoops and start labeling it a cleaner. I worked in the food service industry for years, and the liquid sanitizer used in the food service industry is a very different product. The fact that contact with it contaminated food has no bearing here. The sanitizer we're using here is a no-rinse sanitizer, so it will obviously be in contact with items we're using/ Now, on to the main event. The no rinse sanitizer/cleaner is an oxygen cleaner. As previously mentioned, when added to water, it creates hydrogen peroxide. As with other oxygen cleaners, its main ingredients are sodium percarbonate and sodium carbonate. These are the same main ingredients in Oxiclean. So why use Oxiclean only as a cleaner and not as a sanitizer? Because we don't know the concentration for Oxiclean, so we don't know how much would be needed to sanitize. We know that with the Mr Beer product. As a side note, I know of one person who uses Oxiclean as a sanitizer, but I think he's nuts. When you mix it with water, you get H2O2. But what happens to the sodium? It stays behind. i H2O2 degrades to water and O2 at room temperature pretty quickly in the presence of light or air. If you boil it, it happent s pretty much instantaneously. If you boiled it for even a few minutes, there's no H2O2 left. Now we get to the sodium. It didn't leave. It didn't boil off. In fact, when boiled, it became more concentrated (not less). So you've now got some extra sodium in the brew. That may make it taste a bit salty. Other than that, there's no danger.
  9. Don't use hot tap water for cooking or brewing if any of your plumbing predates 1986. Before 1986, solder used for plumbing could contain lead, and hot water can leach that out. Since 1986, solder used for plumbing is required to be lead free.
  10. Liquid Malt Extract.
  11. I should point out that I'm not trying to discourage you. Quite the opposite. I did the same thing for my first couple of batches. I saw that white sugar raised the ABV by x%, so I added some. I also didn't know any better, so I stuck them in the fridge after a week or two. They were underwhelming, but by that time, I had found this and a few other forums and knew that things could get better. And they have. You'll brew beer with this batch and you'll brew better beer as you learn more.
  12. Simple sugars (aka adjuncts) ferment more fully, but tend to produce acetaldehyde, which can lead to an apple cider taste. Fortunately, acetaldehyde fades with time. I'd let it ferment for 2-3 weeks, then let it sit at room temperature for at least 6 weeks before sticking one in the fridge for at least 3 days (a week is better). As Rick noted, the ABV will be higher, and it will be thinner, but if you let it condition long enough, it'll be drinkable.
  13. Those work fine if you only ferment with their temperature range, but if you get a bunch of Nottingham and ferment in the basement in the winter, you may find that they don't go low enough.
  14. What's the yeast? Different yeasts have different levels of flocculation.