Community Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


kedogn last won the day on February 18

kedogn had the most liked content!

About kedogn

  • Rank
  • Birthday October 15

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Renton, WA
  • Interests
    Beer, baseball and traveling... if I can combine all 3, I am a very happy man!

Recent Profile Visitors

393 profile views
  1. I apologize, I didn't see the words "Dry Hop" in the OP post (still don't - but I don't know that recipe either, I read it as an IPA recipe, not 'the' ipa recipe).
  2. Assuming use of the same amount, it could if you exchanged a low AA% for a high AA% hop... such as Cascade at 6%AA vs Citra at 13%AA. You will certainly notice a difference.
  3. Mix it in any amount you want basically. It all depends on how much I need and what I am doing. if I want to do just a spray bottles worth, I will. Most generally I will make 5 gallons at a time to do what I need, then I can save some in 1 gallon jars. My general rule is that I will keep it until it turns cloudy.
  4. It all depends on what you are wanting to achieve, honestly. I try not to use any more than 10% crystal, as high as 15% (though, truth be told, I do have a couple older recipes that are at 18%). It depends on what kind of crystal you are talking about too and what you are using them for. If you are wanting other flavors, like Jalapeno, or Hops for that matter, to shine through, you want your base to be lighter (I am not talking in color, specifically, but malt) so the flavors you want can be the star of the show. The deeper your base, the more you will need of the other to get it come through. IMO, you should use only the amount of crystal that is required to hit the SRM (color) you are looking for. Like this old recipe of mine for a Red, where the crystal is at roughly 9.6%: 3 lbs 8.00 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) 1 lbs 8.00 oz Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) 12 oz Special Roast (50.0 SRM) 12.00 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) 9 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) 8.25 oz Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) 1 oz Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM)
  5. You don't mash DME. If you wanted to use DME (for flavor/ABV) you would add it to the run off from the mash (wort) when you boil. When you add it will usually also dictate some color (aka the longer you boil it the more color it adds... not usually a big thing, just depends on how tight you wanna be with the SRM). Also, that's a HIGH amount of Crystal too. I'd cut that in 1/2 minimum, personally. Of course, if you end up using DME, depending on how much you use, that % would adjust as well.
  6. That's my favorite kinda grain.. "on sale pale ale".
  7. Ironically, it was someone right here on these forums that helped me with the design work (I said what I wanted, he made it happen) for Manfish Brewing... 7 years ago! Wow how time flies.
  8. I have a small bottle collection, but the rest of mine is kegged. So, inside I can have 20 gallons ready to rock with anything several gallons outside (in garage) ready to rock when needed. All nice and neat. But everything it takes to get to that point... now that's another story
  9. I remember the first time my wife carried a jar of yeast into the living room and asked me what it was... needless to say, after my long answer about the miracle that is yeasties, she wont be asking that again lol However, I also know, that when we get moved, I will have an extra fridge for yeast and hops in the brewery, so I better not be putting anything in "her" fridge lol
  10. Wait until it takes over 1/2 your house... or better yet, you are moving because your garage/brewery area isn't big enough (Check! Doing that next month - literally)!
  11. I remember those days... but then again, I used to eat Taco Bell too.
  12. Best? That all depends on what you are wanting to do and what your taste buds tell you. If you like what you are doing, keep it up. If you want to start adding minerals to get better flavors, especially if you are or start to do AG, then distilled is a great baseline to start with.
  13. I believe that RO is what Screwy uses (or did at least). He would be a better one to answer that, however, since RO is about as close to distilled as you are going to get, its a very, very clean starting base.
  14. The problem with this is that if you are doing AG, you can have your recipe "dialed in", but if you change the water profile you are brewing with, that recipe aka the end result might change "bigly". It could be "yuge". I currently build my recipes based just simply on my local water. I do not know the breakdown, I like the water, I use it. However, in the past, after reading some of Screwy's articles I wanted to get more technical, so I took a recipe I liked, a really good IPA, and I made it based on a water profile for a really good IPA (using distilled water as my base). Without adjusting the actual recipe, that beer ended up being EXTREMELY bitter. It was the same recipe, but different water profiles. 1 very good. 1 almost not drinkable (almost lol). I would suggest working on both at the same time, honestly. My plan is to get my local water tested when I move and then build water profiles to fit all of my current recipes to make them even better. Looking forward to that, but that is a ways off. Until then, its the local water for me