kedogn

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Everything posted by kedogn

  1. Very interesting book to say the yeast
  2. I went back and looked at some recipes and I noticed this trend he was talking about... however, every one of them used 1056, so that makes perfect sense
  3. I dunno if I would use it "over" US-05, but back in the day I went through A LOT of Notty. I think I used it back then, mainly, because it was cheaper than US-05. A very good yeast I used in darn near everything I brewed back then... which was 95% Pales, Reds and IPAs. Now that I am back to using dried yeast, I will be using US-05 though. I haven't used dried yeast in so long, I am interested in seeing how it goes and how long it takes to really get going. I will be using it on Thursday when I brew up a 30 gal batch of Chaos Ensues, a 6.9% IRA.
  4. That's a pretty little infection... and unless you pitched Lactobacillus, that's not a good thing to be looking at. Yikes! Just be thankful that wasn't inside a 35 gallon conical full of a pale ale... not that I can say I have ever done that <cough>!
  5. Check out Dragoon Brewing if you can too and say hey to Eric
  6. Just like my storm cellar when I lived in Oklahoma... that always made me laugh. Then again, we lived above a bunch of caves, so go figure. Good "Picher, Oklahoma" sometime
  7. You got to love carbonation and light ass fruit.
  8. With my Christmas Hefe, I toss fresh cranberries straight in to the boil. When they start popping it’s pretty cool. LOL If you do this I would suggest straining them out, they have a tendency to plug air locks and create a mess #TrustMe.
  9. I'm sorry, shouldn't that have been, "the easiest a true lager to make is not"?? P.S.. its my Friday at work ('regular' job) and I am feeling a little squirrely
  10. Well, honestly, because you can save a lot of $$ on yeast using liquid yeast, if you do it right and if you brew often enough to make it worth the time (this is a big factor) and constantly have fresh yeast. What I used to do is take 2 smack packs, do a 5L starter, split that into 4 mason jars. I could then take each of those and do the same if I wanted and then take what I had from there and make starters for per batch as needed. In the end run it saved a lot of cash... but took a lot of time. Once Manfish really got going, I realized I didn't have the time do be doing it that way any more and I was forced (for lack of a better term) to start going with 2 smack packs per batch and making the yeast I need per batch from it, thus spending more $$. I am to the point now where I realize that time is the most precious thing I have and if I can be doing something else other than working on starters, I want to do that, so hence my comment above about going back to dry yeast, especially at the pricing you can get if you buy it in the 500g brick vs 11.5g packet.
  11. I, honestly, have a problem doing that at times. When someone is learning to brew with me, I know that they don't know anything about it, so I am free to speak in such ways. When talking brewing with people who brew, I assume (you know what they say about that) that people know the basics at least and amounts of yeast, to me, is a "basic"
  12. Actually, *you* are the reason the "to a point" is there. To me, it would be obvious now, but I also understand to new people it wouldn't be and I knew you would have corrected it
  13. Better to over pitch (to a point) than to under pitch any day.
  14. I have been a pretty much strict liquid yeast person ever since I jumped from the LBK. However, a buddy of mine that works at a local 'big boys' brewery showed me that that they use US-05 via the big 500g "bricks". Rehydrate, pitch and away you go! I am seriously considering doing this for several of our beers, pretty much anything I would use 1056 in, as the amount of time and stress that it would relieve from me for not having to worry about getting enough yeast via starters would be awesome! If I am doing my math right, using the Mr. Malty yeast calc, a 500g brick would be good for basically 7-7.5 batches of an OG at 1.056 and 30 gals as it states 65g is needed for that. 500g / 65g = 7.69 batches. $70 for the brick is roughly $10 for full batch. As it is since we don't save yeast right now, and honestly with the hassle, I dunno if I will, I am paying $7/each smack pack, plus who knows what in DME to do the starters (so with the dry, its already saving $4/batch, and lets not forget the price of gas to go get yeast at least 1x a week). I know for using liquid and being able grow my own yeast, its not bad... it just takes a long time, even when I was getting help from my wife on making them (I moved everything out to the brewery from the house, so I don't ask her to do that any more, as she is freaked out a little by using the propane and I understand) Yup, after putting that in writing... back to dried yeast for me after I use up what I already have
  15. Exactly! I was pushed years ago to try to do Manfish. It appealed to me, but truth is, I *really* wasn't ready for it back then and hell, I dunno if I am right now to be honest.
  16. #TRUTH! I honestly never saw myself doing more than the 2 kinds that came with my MRB kit when I got it in December of 2009. Nor did I ever see myself going through the hassle of doing All-Grain Brewing. Nor did I see myself ever brewing more than 5 gallons, or eventually 10 gallons, let alone brewing on a 1 BBL system. I can also say that I never thought this would ever been anything, because well, honestly for the high majority of people it just stays a hobby. With that said, I never thought I would see a beer of mine on tap at a local bar and I most certainly never thought I would be sitting 11 days away from opening the Manfish Brewing tasting room. #ExpectTheUnexpected
  17. Then it sounds like a 15 (or the 16 above you posted) might be perfect. Also remember what @RickBeer stated not only about amount of time/ability to boil, but if the pot will fit a stove if you are doing that still. I admit, that didn't cross my mind as I have been on propane for 7.5+ years now.
  18. The bigger the better... as long as the price is right and this is something you will keep doing. When I bought my 50 gallon kettles, I was stepping up from keggles, and I *almost* went with only 30 gallon kettles. OMFG I am sooooo glad right now I didn't do that. I mean, at the time it would have saved me over $100 per unit (I got 3), but in the long run it would have cost me even more, because right now having the 50's, they are and have been for a while now, too small. Go Bigger and get the "bells and whistles" add the add-ons later.
  19. Actually, I use the same schedule for that beer when I do it as AG or using DME. I mean, I would think that fermentation is fermentation. I wouldn't think it would matter much what you used to get there, especially since we are talking about temperature control for fermentation, ya know?
  20. With my Hops O'Plenty IPL (India Pale Lager), my schedule is as follows: Primary for 10-12 days at 55.0 F until fermentation slows Diacetyl Rest for 2 days at 65.0 F Secondary for 14 days at 50.0 F ending at 45.0 F Tertiary for 21 days at 45.0 F ending at 40.0 F That was back when I was doing them all in buckets or carboys. Now that I use conicals, it will all be in the same vessel. The times and temps still hold true.
  21. After comparing the blonde & pale after gelatin use, I have to wonder why it worked awesome on one, but not the other. I thought maybe I had some wheat in the blonde, after rechecking the recipe I see I did not. From a difference stand point (other than the obvious recipe/style), Blonde had been in the cooler for a full day longer than the pale.. and that's it. Both had the gelatin addition at the same time, but were kegged within 30 minutes of one another. If the blonde had came out as clear as the pale, I might have been doing cartwheels across the brewery (maybe its a good thing it didn't lol). Either way, both are quite tasty... especially the pale
  22. Well, Chat Rat Pale Ale looks awesome after using gelatin!
  23. For me. If I use it again... I am going to make sure I have more than 3 days in the cooler before using it and more than 26 hours afterwards before I have to keg. If that dont do it... I wont waste my time going forward. Rushing sucks, but I have an LLC members meeting here today and if I hope to get more $$ from people, I better have them beer, so I didnt let that one sit. Its a Blonde, so no biggie really. I'll have a Blonde, a Pale and an IPA on tap for them. That should be good
  24. Btw - I kegged my 1st beer with the gelatin in it yesterday... it did not impress me! Still hazy. I like the look of the beer, so I am ok with that, but I am not sure why it didnt do what it was supposed to do unless I just didnt let it sit long enough for the size of the batch (26 hours for 25 gallons), which is possible.