kedogn reacted to greyhound in No evidence of fermentation?
Frustrating update... this morning I decided to bottle. As mentioned, I am using a FastFerment. With valve shut, while disconnecting the threaded union at the bottom that holds the trub collection jar, beer started flowing. No matter what I did I couldn't correct it. Lost the entire batch. The ball valve bottom seal threaded seat had turned loose as I was unscrewing the union and I couldn't get it tightened enough with my fingers to correct it. Not being familiar with the FastFerment, I didn't realize until subsequently visiting one of their cleaning videos that the ball handle can be pulled off and there are "nubs" on the handle that can be used to turn the seal seal. Had I known that, I likely could have tightened the seat through the beer flow and only lost a portion of the batch. Don't know why this came loose. This batch was my third with the FastFerment. Not sure I'm going to like the FastFerment method vs. LBK.... Not giving up yet.
kedogn reacted to MRB Josh R in Too long?
Yes, it is. The warmer it is, the faster autolysis happens. It's also dependent on the yeast's age and strain. Older, stressed yeast will autolyze much sooner than fresh yeast. Repitching yeast from batch to batch can also stress the yeast rendering them more prone to autolysis. And certain strains are more prone to autolysis than others. These strains usually include yeasts that aren't very ABV tolerant.
kedogn reacted to MRB Josh R in Too long?
After about 4 weeks, the yeast will begin to autolyze. When a yeast cell dies, it ruptures - releasing several off-flavors into the beer. When you have a large yeast mass on the bottom of the fermentor, you have a large potential for off-flavors due to autolysis. Some of the off-flavors/aromas include burnt rubber or rotten eggs. It can get really bad if left too long. Also, after a few weeks, most of the protective Co2 will off-gas, leaving the beer vulnerable to contamination from wild yeast, mold, bacteria, etc.
If your beer has experienced autolysis, you will know it. Give it a taste. If it tastes like flat beer, it's probably fine. But if it's unpalatable, your yeast may have autolyzed. Never leave beer on the sediment for longer than 3 weeks to prevent autolysis.
The only exception to this rule is if you are aging the beer in secondary with a wild yeast, such as Brettanomyces. Brett will eat dead yeast, preventing autolysis.
kedogn reacted to Creeps McLane in Upcoming Brewing Schedule
I had planned to go up north this weekend and come back on Sunday and brew two extract batches for kubbapalooza which is fast approaching. However, now it’s like rain/hailing out and strong winds. So.......... I have all the time in the world to brew this weekend. I’m making a gluten free lager and a bigger batch of wheat wort that will be split into a Hefeweizen batch and a Weiss that will be rack into the keg on top of some lemonade for a shandy. Super stoked
kedogn reacted to 76shovel in Brewmax 2 gallon fermenter
I have a slightly taller dorm fridge for cold crashing, I control it with an Inkbird controller. I can do two LBKs in it but when I remove the shelves the brewmax fermenter just fits. During the initial week of fermentation I tape the probe of the Inkbird to the fermenter below the fluid line and set it at the desired fermentation temp . My basement is 65-68 so after high Krausen I put the fermenter on a shelf (unless it's a lager I need to keep colder).
kedogn reacted to Palmetto Brew in Temperature fluctuations after a week of fermentation...
I'm on my third batch of beer (Diablo IPA) and I am using the cooler/water bottle method for the first time. My house temperature is set to 74 and I am able to keep the temperature at about 68F during high krausen. This seems to be working great for me and is cheap.
kedogn reacted to Bonsai & Brew in Rhizomes
Then I found this on another forum and confirmed what I suspected about 'Golden:'
"The garden center variety is a sport that was selected for its yellow leaf color. It was intended to be an ornamental that looks pretty on your fence.If you're serious about brewing don't waste your malt on it. Look for varieties that have been selected for their aromas or bittering qualities."
Given my somewhat eclectic preferences for landscape plants with interesting foliage, bark, flowers, etc., this hop will fit right in with my Sunburst Locusts, Ogon Spirea, and Aurea moneywort. Contrasted against a backdrop of Scots pine blue-green needles, this could really create a nice effect. I love this stuff.
kedogn reacted to Cato in 2018 Churchills Challenge
Boy, I've been back and forth a lot but think I'm starting to close in on what I'm going to brew. Lol, I know I am going to have to drink this once its done and bottled.
Definitely going to be interesting because I've only tasted the hydrometer sample from Calavera Stout. So I'm going a lot by description and have likely created a
Frankenbrew, working with some new grains and HME. RDWHAB, its all good.
kedogn reacted to RickBeer in Really odd question
I've been working for the past year cleaning out my inventory, which was large because my youngest was consuming it with us until last March. Anyway, I've been drinking beers as old as two years, including many in PET bottles, none in oxygen barrier anything, and it all tastes just fine.
Remember, TASTE has at least 5 basic qualities:
Taste is done b your mouth, and nose, and your BRAIN. If you look at a strawberry, your brain processes an expectation for the flavor. So, if you pick up a beer and read the label and see it's 2 years old, your brain is saying "it's going to taste oxidized", and that influences your perception.
Also, everyone's sense of taste is different, genetically, and some people are predisposed to certain things.
kedogn reacted to MiniYoda in Tell Yoda where to go
While Ohio brings up a great challenge, in order to appreciate it all, I doubt I could do it in one weekend. Considering Cincinnati, Dayton, Columbus, Toledo, and yes.....Cleveland, it would take the better part of two months to appreciate the beers from this state. Sadly, for Memorial weekend, I only have 3 days.
I am playing the lottery this weekend. If it hits, I'll let you know
kedogn got a reaction from DrMJG in how to handle a true lager?
With my Hops O'Plenty IPL (India Pale Lager), my schedule is as follows:
Primary for 10-12 days at 55.0 F until fermentation slows
Diacetyl Rest for 2 days at 65.0 F Secondary for 14 days at 50.0 F ending at 45.0 F Tertiary for 21 days at 45.0 F ending at 40.0 F
That was back when I was doing them all in buckets or carboys. Now that I use conicals, it will all be in the same vessel. The times and temps still hold true.
kedogn got a reaction from SilverBrewerWI in Looking for a Christmas beer recipe
My thoughts on comps are well documented, however, I do agree with you as I would state, "I wouldn't do it." If I knowing knew it was a recipe from someone else, no, I wouldn't try to pass it as my own. Back in the day I have brewed others recipes and I even called them "XXXXX's Porter" and so on. That sparked a huge debate here, so I wont go further than that.
With that said...
I agree with this as well. To be 100% original is darn near impossible, if not completely.
kedogn reacted to billp in An experimental comparison
I'm bottling each batch in 12 ounce bottles so there will be ample opportunities for comparison.
Once these two are in the bottles, I'm replicating the experiment with the Mr Beer Oktoberfest (gussied up with some Munich LME and Wyeast 2633 Oktoberfest Blend) compared to a SMASH beer made with Munich DME and an ounce or so of Hallertauer fermented with the same yeast.
kedogn reacted to billp in An experimental comparison
I've been making Mr Beer batches for a few years now and I've always wondered what (if anything) I'm missing by not doing my own hop boils etc. On the other hand, I'm a big believer in the 80/20 rule, that is, you can get 80% of the benefit of most things with 20% of the work. So I've decided to run a direct comparison experiment to see if I can figure out whether the extra work and time involved in doing the full boil results in a beer that enough better than Mr. Beer to justify the work.
So here's what I did.
Last week, I made a 2.5 gallon batch of the Mr Beer "Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner" using the can of HME, two packets of booster, and 1 lb. of Mailliard Malt Pilsner LME I pitched one smack-pack of Wyeast 2278 Czech Pils and put it in the fermentation chamber at 55F. O.G. was 1.053. Total ingredient cost = $28.94. Total time spent = 45 minutes.
This weekend, I made a 2.5 gallon batch of Pilsner using 2.5 gallons of water, 3lbs of Briesse Pilsnen Light DME. I dissolved the DME in the water, fired up the burner and brought the wort to a boil. After the hot break, I added .75 ounces of Czech Saaz hops and boiled for 45 minutes. With 15 minutes to go, I added another .25 ounces of Saaz. At the end of the boil, I put the pot in an ice bath and got the wort down to 68F in about 15 minutes, pitched one smack-pack of Wyeast 2278 Czech Pils and put it in the fermentation chamber at 55F. O.G, was 1.058. Total ingredient cost = $21.97, Total time spent = 2 hours.
I tried to get the IBUs on the two beers pretty close, but no guarantees. I do prefer lower levels of hops and bitterness so I think they'll both be good. The plan is to treat the two batches exactly the same; 3 weeks in the fermentation chamber, 72 hour diacetyl rest @ 65F, 48 hours cold-crash @ 35F, then bottle. The Mr Beer batch will have a small advantage of being a week older at each stage of the comparison, but I'm okay with that.
Anyway, stay tuned and I'll keep y'all posted about the results.
kedogn reacted to MRB Josh R in Booster vs DME-LME
Standard refills come with the Boosters at no charge (though they are sold separately @ $1.75), but when buying a Deluxe refill, the cost of the LME is figured into the price. Whether you choose DME/LME or Booster depends on what you are making.
This was mainly due to shipping issues. The larger bag had a history of busting open in transit. The smaller bags are much stronger and less likely to bust open. Also, many customers expressed that they didn't always use the whole bag and preferred using half instead.
kedogn reacted to MRB Josh R in how to handle a true lager?
All lagers will lager at cold temps (35-45). The word "lager" means "cold storage". The closer you can get to freezing temps without actually freezing is best.
Yeah, they used to lager in caves back then, but we have refrigeration now and I can almost guarantee that the quality of lager we can make now is way beyond what they had when they were still lagering in caves.
When lagering, colder is always better.