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RickBeer

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RickBeer last won the day on November 30

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About RickBeer

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    Brewing Guru

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    Male
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    Ann Arbor, Michigan (GO BLUE!)
  • Interests
    Brewing 5 gallon extract recipes, skiing, my family, U of Michigan.

    I enjoy answering questions on forums and paying it forward. Please ask on the forum - not in PMs.

    Also, I don't accept Friend requests, they really serve no purpose on the forum. If you participate on the forum, consider yourself a friend :).

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  1. RickBeer

    Diablo IPA with US-05

    The older Mr. Beer fermenters were designed to have a short piece of hose go over the spigot, and then onto a bottling wand. That allowed a longer piece of hose to be used and the wand to be moved around a lot. My batch priming process uses a 2.5 gallon slimline from Walmart. The bottling wand fits into the spigot (which is very similar to the new Mr. Beer spigots), in fact you have to take a drill bit and turn it by hand in a new spigot to get it a tad bigger (and then wash and sanitize the spigot). Rarely does it fall out. The newer fermenters are designed for the wand to go inside as noted. If your bottling wand slips out, then the solution (beyond taping) would be to take the spigot and wand to your local hardware store (making sure they sell food grade tubing by the foot - Lowe's and Home Depot only sell 10 foot lengths now). Get a section of hose that fits into the spigot, and then play around with hoses to go over the bottling wand, and connect them with an adapter to the piece of hose in the spigot. Use hose clamps to hold the pieces of hose together. Not pretty, but it won't undo as easily.
  2. RickBeer

    did my bottling for first batch

    You want to pour the first half of the bottle down the side of the glass, and the second half right into the middle of the beer, generating whatever head it can. In general, Mr. Beer recipes don't generate much head unless you steep some carapils (when you start steeping grains), or wheat, or add some wheat LME/DME. Make sure you leave the last bit in the bottle, as it gets cloudy during the pour you want to stop pouring. Make sure the conditioning and carbonation takes place at 70 or above for 4 weeks.
  3. RickBeer

    Peanut Butter Stout

    Yeah, yeah, yeah... You're doing it wrong. Fixed...
  4. RickBeer

    Partial Mash

    Unfortunately, your beer may be ruined. To ensure it's safe, please mail it to my testing facility and I will personally check every bottle. RickBeer 123 I Will Drink Your Beer Drive Ann Arbor, MI 48105 Boiling wort. Ice cube falls in. Melts, kills anything before wort cools. All is well.
  5. RickBeer

    Peanut Butter Stout

    Yes, but that's not the point 😉 ml in this case is more meaningful than teaspoons.
  6. RickBeer

    Temp & Fermentation

    Yup. Refractometer can be used before alcohol is created. After it's created, it's not accurate - but there are sites on how to adjust it. Big, huge breweries that have very expensive refractometers also use a cheap hydrometer.
  7. RickBeer

    Temp & Fermentation

    You have a cold house 😁 The most advanced breweries use hydrometers. Buy 2. One will break and then the second will try to commit suicide. A hydrometer is like $4.99.
  8. RickBeer

    Temp & Fermentation

    If you can, tape the probe for the gauge to the side of the LBK, below the fluid line, with a cloth folded over the tip to shield it from room air. It will yield a very accurate temperature. Yes, 55 would be very cold.
  9. RickBeer

    Temp & Fermentation

    As I was typing my response (early in the AM while drinking my coffee), I didn't notice (and should have) that the Fermentis data sheet has been changed. Your numbers off the packet are indeed correct. I started looking into it, and discovered they changed their datasheets some years ago (12/2016), but of course mine and many of the brewing stores are still the old ones. Stupid to change the datasheet and not change the packet at the same time. I found a post where someone claimed to have asked Fermentis, and got this answer: Thank you for contacting Fermentis. I understand the confusion. We did change the temperature range due to a few factors. We have been aware that US-05 ferments better at the elevated temperatures for some time. We wanted to change that, so that people aren’t trying to make pseudo-lagers and struggling with VDK assimilation (Diacetyl). The reason that we implemented the change was due to us going through a bit of a rebranding (changing the “Safbrew” strains to “Safale” since they are all ale yeast). There was no change in strain but rather that we know you will have success at the elevated temperatures. So if you go too cold, you in fact will want to raise it up to the higher 60s for a few days. I use it at 65. I'm going to modify my initial response.
  10. RickBeer

    Temp & Fermentation

    First, let's establish the proper temperature range for S-05. Per Fermentis, the ideal range is 64-82 degrees. However, this is due to a change in their datasheet (apparently made in 2016 but lagged the change on their website), which was never changed on the package. If you take a look at my later post in this thread, I refer to that and post a comment they made regarding that. So, the air temperature in your basement is too cold for ideal fermentation. With air temp 59-61, when the yeast gets active the temp will increase, and likely be fine. However, when the fermentation slows, the temp will drop below the ideal range. Ideally, you'd want to know the temperature of the wort in the LBK, not of the air in the room. If the temp drops too much, you may experience some Diacetyl, and will want to raise the temp as you suggest to the upper 60s at the end of fermentation. Let's go one step further. Your basement air temp, measured ______, is 59-61. If that's on a wall thermostat, that means the temp near the floor is cooler, as cold air sinks. Further, if the LBKs are sitting on a cement floor, that's basically a giant cold block. So that would make things worse. Ideally, you'd want to warm the temp some, or put the LBKs up off the floor. As to your question about raising them to room temp a few days before cold crashing, no, you don't need to do that. But, you do need to make sure that your beer thoroughly ferments, and if it's at 59 for a lot of that 3 weeks it may not. I would not be brewing at those temps without using a hydrometer to check final gravity either.
  11. RickBeer

    Peanut Butter Stout

    1 dram for 5 gallons. A dram = 1/8th of a fluid ounce = 0.75 teaspoons There are 53.3 12 ounce bottles in a 5 gallon batch. 0.75/53.3 = 0.014 teaspoons. So, yes, it's not much. Let's try in milliliters. A dram = 3.7 ml 3.7/53.3 = 0.69 ml per bottle A drop from a standard eyedropper dispenses 0.5 ml per drop. So it's more than 1 drop, and less than 2. Note the LorAnn sells droppers that fit their dram bottles. HOWEVER, do not store the dropper in the bottle for any length of time, because over time the vapors will degrade the rubber stopper.
  12. RickBeer

    Peanut Butter Stout

    No. You add it to your bottling bucket. If you don't batch prime, then you want to add no more than 2 drops (with an eyedropper that they sell) to each bottle before bottling. 1 might be fine. If you add it to the hot wort, you'll kill the flavor. If you put in the fermenter for 3 weeks, you'll lose the flavor.
  13. RickBeer

    Leaking Spigot

    Also make sure that the washer is properly installed (next time). Flat side goes towards the spigot, rounded side goes toward the LBK. Then HAND TIGHTEN ONLY, about 1/4 turn past tight. Then, as recommended prior, fill with water (I put in the same level as my beer will be to match the pressure), and let sit for 1/2 hour. Sometimes it has to be retightened.
  14. RickBeer

    Peanut Butter Stout

    Sure. Buy a bottle of LorAnn Peanut Butter flavor (1 dram size), add 1/2 of it to a Mr. Beer batch. But the Irish Stout isn't a great base for a peanut butter stout, it's better on an oatmeal stout base. Should be creamy mouth feel.
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