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RickBeer last won the day on March 23

RickBeer had the most liked content!

About RickBeer

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    Brewing Guru

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    Ann Arbor, Michigan (GO BLUE!)
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    Brewing 5 gallon extract recipes, skiing, my family, U of Michigan.

    I enjoy answering questions on forums and paying it forward. Please ask on the forum - not in PMs.

    Also, I don't accept Friend requests, they really serve no purpose on the forum. If you participate on the forum, consider yourself a friend :).

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  1. I meant you need to read more on the forum and the Mr. Beer site. This is your kit, on the Mr. Beer site, and posted often on the forum:
  2. I'd also point out that you can't "see" fermentation. You can see the krausen that forms, and a fermentation may get more vigorous at a higher temperature, but that doesn't mean it's "better". And, as Gophers6 mentioned, you can't condition out some off flavors. You should always ferment for 3 weeks, and then carbonate and condition for 4 or more weeks at 70 or higher. Then bottle refrigerate what you'll drink 3 days later. And do some reading, including my signature.
  3. Need to read more then... 1/2 to 3/4 in a 12 oz bottle.
  4. Half the weight to carry, fits fixed shelves in fermenting freezer. And "it's a lot more work" is a great reason to NOT move to buckets, carboys (glass carboys are dangerous), auto-siphons, ... As I've documented many times, I brew 5 gallon extract batches, which are basically 2.5 gallons of water, grain steeps, LME, hops, and result in at most 3.25 gallons of wort (depending on grain absorption, can be as low as 2.25 gallons), which I then distribute into two LBKs that each have 1 gallon of refrigerated water in them, then top off to 2.5 gallons in each. The option of adding water after fermentation is one that should not be pursued. Top off water is added BEFORE fermentation. You run the risk of infection (unless you boil and then cool the water first), you run the risk of oxygenation of the wort, you run the risk of stirring up trub that you don't want in your bottles (unless you're doing batch priming), ... If at time of consumption you think the beer is too strong, you have two options: 1) Leave this forum you pansy... 2) Put some water in your glass, then pour in the beer Option #2 is sometimes done by people in a different manner when they make a beer they don't like, i.e. they mix two beers together to get a beer they do like. My Black and Tan is that - two different beers poured into the same glass (with the proper instrument) to make a truly layered beer.
  5. I do indeed put 2.5 gallons in each LBK. I ferment at 64, and only Nottingham overflows, and just barely.
  6. A 12 oz bottle would use 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon of sugar which would be the smaller drop for 1/2, yes.
  7. I don't think "many" is accurate, but I haven't studied the matter beyond knowing the Michigan regs and that most states follow similar. TTB is only the federal guidelines. Of course if the customer has no idea what he/she is doing, or had no idea of the length of the process... Many brew on premises started years ago (20) quickly died.
  8. It's not quite that simple. In most (all?) states, a brew-it-yourself store is in fact a brewery, requiring licensing just like a brewery. The beer brewed is in fact the brewery's beer, which they have to pay taxes on, and then sell to the consumer. And, since they are making beer, they also have to comply with health department regulations for serving food...
  9. Agitating the fermenter merely causes beer to slosh out the air vents... Agreed, leave it alone.
  10. Refer to first post.
  11. That process can't be done on the mini kegs to my knowledge.
  12. You don't want to ferment longer than 3 weeks. Many of your questions are answered on the forum, you may want to do some reading. There is no difference between Mr. Beer bottles and glass bottles except cost. I get my glass bottles for $.10 each. Not that I need any more as I have 32 cases of glass bottles, plus the equivalent of 4.5 cases of Mr. Beer bottles. As to kegging, no, you cannot drink it right away. With some kegging equipment, it can be ready in maybe 5 to 7 days, but most beer is best with aging. You can carbonate kegs with CO2, or with sugar (just like bottles), but you have to dispense with CO2. People keg Mr. Beer all the time. As to using that dispenser with the kegs you specify, there is no reason they cannot if they can be refilled and pressurized.
  13. Opportunistic buyers can get caps for around 1.5 cents each. A few years back, some of us got 2,000 caps for $30 on Ebay. More recently, AIH had some on clearance, I got 144 for $2.00, and bought 7 or 8 bags.