Community Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


RickBeer last won the day on December 6

RickBeer had the most liked content!

About RickBeer

  • Rank
    Brewing Guru

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ann Arbor, Michigan (GO BLUE!)
  • Interests
    Brewing 5 gallon extract recipes, skiing, my family, U of Michigan.

    I enjoy answering questions on forums and paying it forward. Please ask on the forum - not in PMs.

    Also, I don't accept Friend requests, they really serve no purpose on the forum. If you participate on the forum, consider yourself a friend :).

Recent Profile Visitors

7,395 profile views
  1. Just to clarify, the gasket goes on the OUTSIDE, not the inside. The beveled edge goes IN, against the LBK. You should be finger tightening the nut, not very tight, then water testing it. If the gasket gets a mark from the outside seam, it will go away once removed.
  2. Oh, that never happens... "Honey, why is there beer in my spice drawer?" "Because when it ran down the cabinets onto the floor I didn't know it got into the drawer..."
  3. I have a spigot like that on the 2.5 gallon slimline that I use for batch priming. Wand fits IN the spigot. Depends on the diameter of the wand, and the nozzle of course.
  4. No, it was for mixing, before it was realized that mixing was not needed. From the old directions: Place caps on bottles, hand tighten, and then gently upend the bottle. Do not shake. Also here: https://web.archive.org/web/20120518083253/http://www.mrbeer.com/images/pdf/MB11-Inst-SELECT.pdf See 10:00 in this video also:
  5. Ah. That would be #4 on the list that I didn't list...
  6. There are at least 3 types of Mr. Beer spigots. 1) White, you have to hold it open. - This is OLD. 2) White, it swivels open and closed. 3) Black, it swivels open and closed. This is the newest. I don't know of any "notched" spigots. My white spigots fit the bottling wand INSIDE, or a piece of hose over the outside and over the bottling wand.
  7. Most of Mr. Beer's refills contain the same yeast. However, SOME of Mr. Beer's refills contain different yeast, for example the WHEAT-BASED products. From a December 2016 post by JoshR: The white yeast pack under the Bavarian Weissbier lid is a wheat yeast. The Gold packets are all basic Coopers ale yeasts, and the Gold packet under the lid of the Churchills is an English ale yeast. I used to label my packets as to which refill they came with, and then use them in date order, oldest first.
  8. Actually, no it won't. If you use carbonation pills, you drop one in and it will slowly dissolve. The yeast eats the sugar, and creates a layer of trub on the bottom of the bottle. Gently turning the bottles distributes the trub, not the sugar. You want that to stay settled on the bottom of the bottle. If you use sugar, after filling and capping a bottle people sometimes gently turn them end for end to "mix" the sugar. It's not needed. Yeast finds the sugar. Think of being on a football field at the 50. They make an announcement that there is free pizza and beer for the first person to reach the endzone. That's how yeast reacts to sugar.
  9. I wouldn't. I would never add sugar to a brew, and honey is added to receipes, where it makes sense. You're chasing ABV, and that's going to result in a light beer (Aztec) tasting like cider.
  10. You need to do some more reading. Sugar ferments. When it's done, it's gone. What's left is alcohol and any residual flavor. In brown sugar's case, that flavor is unsweetened molasses. Tastes like crap. And, while you raise the ABV, you actually make the beer drier. Raising a beer's ABV by 50% with sugar of any type would really impact it negatively IMO. Make the Deluxe version, which uses malt extract. There are recipes on the Mr. Beer site which use fruit, including some with Aztec - that use lime, boysenberries, etc. No need to reinvent the wheel. https://www.mrbeer.com/refills/recipes?brewingextracttype=75
  11. That's your problem. Remove them from the fridge, then let them sit for 29 days. That's 4 weeks, plus today which doesn't count because they are warming up. Then, refrigerate just what you're going to drink 3 days later, letting the rest continue to sit warm. You can't carb beer with sugar (or drops, or dots) in a frig, the yeast goes to sleep.
  12. Take your hand and gently squeeze a bottle. If it's at all firm, it's fine. If it's not, make sure the bottles are sitting in 70 degree or higher temps.
  13. You have broken quite a few rules in your first posts... First, you said you read before you brewed. Shame on you. Second, you said you followed directions. How could you? Third, and most important, you made fun of the Revered High Lord of Beer, and he shalt bring fury upon you... Welcome!
  14. Lots of good posts to read if you want to learn more. As to maintaining fermentation temperature, yes, you are correct, the wort will get warmer than ambient temperature during peak fermentation. The stick on thermometers, applied below the water line, will show you a pretty accurate temp for the wort. You want the wort to be around 65 - 68. At peak fermentation, it will climb up to 8 or 10 degrees higher. If you need to cool it, an inexpensive way is a cooler and rotating frozen water bottles. If you need to warm it, you can try hot bottles, an aquarium pad, or building a simple fermentation chamber. An old frig / freezer (or dorm frig) with a temp controller works great. The cold source is the device itself. The heat source is a paint can (you can buy them new for $5 or less) with a light bulb mounted inside it. Be careful putting your LBK in a cooler and not monitoring temps. In a cold apartment, the heat inside the cooler is still going to build, and if you ferment in the high 70s you're going to get off flavors. Again, lots of posts on this.
  15. Customer Service issues for bad kegs can probably be counted on 2 hands in a year... I had a few a few years back. Mr. Beer contracts out the work to multiple vendors, and had an issue with one. I was able to modify all but 2, and they shipped me new ones.