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RickBeer last won the day on October 22

RickBeer had the most liked content!

About RickBeer

  • Rank
    Brewing Guru

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  • Location
    Ann Arbor, Michigan (GO BLUE!)
  • Interests
    Brewing 5 gallon extract recipes, skiing, my family, U of Michigan.

    I enjoy answering questions on forums and paying it forward. Please ask on the forum - not in PMs.

    Also, I don't accept Friend requests, they really serve no purpose on the forum. If you participate on the forum, consider yourself a friend :).

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  1. RickBeer

    Old Sanitizer

    That's what it says.
  2. RickBeer

    Maple Syrup as Adjunct?

    This ^^^ By and large, anything that we consume that is sweet, when added to a fermentation, loses all sweetness, because the yeast eat the sugar (unless it contains unfermentable sugar). The average person says "I love the taste of honey, let's add it to a beer". A brewer knows that honey dries out a beer, and you get honey flavor from honey malt. Other flavors also come from different sources than people suspect. "I like chocolate in a beer, I wonder how many chocolate bars they put in this beer?". Answer - none, chocolate bars contain fat and that ruins the beer. Chocolate flavors come from grains roasted a specific way, or from cocoa nibs prepared with vodka. One thing that using maple syrup in a beer will do is make it an expensive batch...
  3. RickBeer

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    Beer has 4 components - grain, hops, yeast, water. You can vary any of them, many ways, and get many results. The more you change at once, the less you understand about why you got what you got, and your ability to recreate it in the future. I'd recommend you restrict your yeast choices unless there is a strong reason to change, instead focusing on the difference in different steeping grains, and different hops. For example, make several batches of one refill, say CAL, and use different hops to dry hop. Teaches you in a neutral beer what differences those hops make. Or, make a batch using a packet of light LME vs. a packet of robust LME. See if you can tell the difference in a blind test. See if you can taste the flavors you get. Learn how to properly evaluate a beer. I've been brewing for over 6 years. Here is the extensive list of yeast that I have used in that time: - Original (pre-Cooper's) Mr. Beer Yeast - Cooper's Mr. Beer Yeast - S-05 - S-04 - Nottingham - Windsor - Whatever came with one can I bought of another HME - A lager yeast for the one batch of lager I made Here is a list of the different water treatments I have tried: - My well water I know I've harped on this theme, and I'll continue to, because I think it's the best way for someone to learn, and I try to learn in everything I do.
  4. RickBeer

    Oktoberfestivus Total ready time

    Instead of fermenting for 21 days, cut it to 18. That will give you 3 more days conditioning.
  5. RickBeer

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    Yes, it is Cooper's yeast.
  6. RickBeer

    Grain Mill Problems 😞

    This ^^^. Keep in mind that for BIAB, "pulverize" is fine. If you're not doing BIAB, then you don't want a bunch of flour. You want the inner meal of the kernel separated out, and the husk left mostly intact. Too much flour can result in a stuck sparge (for non-BIAB), and and intact husks reduce astringency and provide a good filter bed. Info provided for the benefit of those that don't know yet.
  7. RickBeer

    What does extra yeast do?

  8. RickBeer

    What does extra yeast do?

  9. RickBeer

    What does extra yeast do?

    I have never had to repitch yeast in 128 batches. Not once.
  10. RickBeer

    Safale US-05 vs Safale S-33

    Make sure if you're going to build an inventory that you think it through first. For example, lay out a list of X recipes in the next Y months, and figure out the things you might need. Yeast and hops are perishable, but stored properly can keep well. Always buy from a known supplier, and if you can specify on the yeast (newest batch possible). I bought a bunch of stuff in 2016. Then in 2017 I went and got a brewing education and didn't brew for a year. When I resumed in Spring 2018, some yeast was long in the tooth. Proper storage (frig) meant they were all viable.
  11. RickBeer

    Bottle didn’t carbonate

    You can drop in carb drops. Don't try dropping in table sugar...
  12. RickBeer

    American Ale problem

    By the way, I put "stop looking" in big type (should have been upper and lower case so it wasn't taken as shouting" as tongue-in-cheek because often new brewers "perv" their LBK multiple times a day. "I see bubbles" (thanks Lawrence Welk) or "there's a bunch of crud on the bottom, what's that?" or "I stuck in my frog to test it...". The cure is to not look. If you ferment at the right temp, let it sit for 3 weeks and then cold crash (if you want) and bottle. I've never, cough, cough, looked at my beer during the fermentation period. Not once. Not 7 times. I've made 128 batches. I have not looked 128 times...
  13. RickBeer

    American Ale problem

    I think it's actually stated by a Mr. Beer rep. I can tell you that I've brewed 2 year old cans myself. They may be a tad darker, but Mr. Beer brews are always darker than style. When you're ready to bottle, take a small taste. If it tastes like uncarbonated beer, you're good. Then bottle away. And remember with cold crashing, you setup, remove it from the frig, and bottle. Don't let it sit on the counter for an hour while you get ready to bottle.
  14. RickBeer

    American Ale problem

    If you read through the forum, you'll see that 2 years past that date is fine.