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RickBeer

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Everything posted by RickBeer

  1. RickBeer

    First Batch CAL

    I have one of these (just remembered). The 1/2" OD hose is too big to fit inside it. And too small to fit on the outside. A standard bottling wand fits inside it, which is 5/16" OD. Therefore, a hose that is 5/16" OD should work.
  2. RickBeer

    First Batch CAL

    Thanks. Take a look at the links in my signature if you haven't already. That's a question fraught with danger, because there are at least 4 Mr. Beer LBK spigots in existence. The "oldest" Mr. Beer LBKs used a hose that slipped OVER the spigot, and that hose then slipped over the bottling wand. Mr. Beer ships their bottling wands with a small piece of hose for that purpose. The next version of the spigot the bottling wand went up into the spigot, so no hose was needed. I have no idea what the newest version of the spigot uses. You've got 3 options: 1) When you next empty the LBK, remove the spigot (which should be removed and disassembled, then cleaned, each batch anyway), and take it to the store and see what fits best. 2) Call Mr. Beer Customer Service M - F. 3) See if you can identify which spigot you have and have another customer tell you what they use. I have the spigots which are white, swivel side to side, and the hose goes over the spigot. That hose is 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD.
  3. RickBeer

    First Batch CAL

    An extra week does help. That's going from 2 to 3 weeks. Week 3 is the extra week. Follow the 3-4 rule. 3 weeks fermentation (ideally 65 degree wort temp) followed by 4 weeks in bottles (ideally 70 or a bit higher), followed by at least 3 days in the fridge for the beer you will drink in 3 days. DME is stronger than LME, because the water is removed. The ratio is: 1 pound of LME = 0.8 pounds of DME. 1 pounds of DME = 1.25 pounds of LME Adding 1 pound of LME is the max I would do, that's why I said 3/4 pound. 1/2 would be fine also. The lighter the beer, the more noticeable the addition is.
  4. RickBeer

    First Batch CAL

    Zero reason to ferment 4 weeks. Adding a cup of sugar dries out the beer as you noted. Add it the next day is not something I would have done. No reason to use S-05 instead of Mr. Beer yeast. A pound of DME is pushing the high side. I might go with 3/4 pound and NO SUGAR.
  5. RickBeer

    2 gallon to 3 gallon

    Simple answer. You can't. Can you turn a 2 gallon HME recipe into a 3 gallon batch? Yes. Can you do that without changing the flavor profile? No. Adding LME /DME and hops will allow you to brew a 3 gallon batch with the same ABV if you figure it out. What it will not have is the same malt profile, the same hop profile, therefore it will not have the same flavor or aroma. Since you don't know what hops Mr. Beer uses, and can't replicate what's in the can, you can't up it by 50% and make the same. Will it be good? Possibly? But it won't be the same. You can also fit a max of 2.5 gallons in a Mr. Beer LBK. In reality, you'll get out about 2.25 gallons of usable beer at best, and that's with cold crashing. On a similar note, find any commercial beer you like. Now, you want to make it via Mr. Beer's HME recipes. Not possible. None of the Mr. Beer cans will replicate a commercial beer. HOWEVER, you can look for clone recipes of commercial beers, ones that are made with LME/DME and hops, and configure a 2.5 gallon recipe to maximize a Mr. Beer LBK. Or you can use a bigger fermenter...
  6. RickBeer

    Don't Sanitize Utensils In the Fermenter

    There's a thing called Darwin's Law... Applies to homebrewing also. 😉
  7. RickBeer

    Don't Sanitize Utensils In the Fermenter

    You shake the fermenter to mix the solution. THEN you put in your utensils. If someone shakes it with the utensils inside, they're probably not long for this hobby... Scratches are very bad.
  8. It's unfortunate he stole that idea from me... I'm sure I could find a pre-2015 one too 😂
  9. RickBeer

    Boosting abv without MRB booster?

    Why are you adding a cup of cane sugar? For what purpose? Have you downloaded QBrew? If you did, YOU could put your ingredients into it and see what the impact would be. If Wild Coyote was "too malty and too strong", then you should be removing things that gave it malty and gave it ABV. Like the amber DME and perhaps a booster pack. What was the point of the Agave Nectar? I'd suggest it needed to age more if it tasted of alcohol.
  10. If you don't know what went in, you have no way of knowing what comes out. Without measuring OG and FG, or knowing the exact ingredients, you have no way of figuring it out or knowing.
  11. RickBeer

    Boosting abv without MRB booster?

    If you're not adding booster or LME/DME, you're drying the beer out more.
  12. RickBeer

    Full Mash Kit Instructions Faulty

    Not dried out yeast, that's krausen. If you dry hopped, that's hops also.
  13. Using the proper pump means that there is no contact between the liquid being pumped and anything else.
  14. RickBeer

    Bottle Capper

    They also require much longer contact to sanitize.
  15. RickBeer

    Bottle Capper

    You say that like it's a bad thing... 😁
  16. RickBeer

    Bottle Capper

    Homebrewing is a hobby. Hobbies cost money. While homebrewing beer can produce a high quality product for less than one would pay for a commercial product, it takes a great deal of volume to amortize the equipment to actually brew for less per bottle than retail. I find that many people often overspend. An extract brewer should not have to spend more than a few hundred dollars to have all the equipment they need, a bit more for an all grain brewer. Just for yucks, I looked at what I've spent (thanks Quicken) since I began 7 years ago: $378.71 in equipment, which includes bottles $103.46 in consumables, which includes bottle caps, grain bags, Star San, glue sticks for labels, Oxiclean $1,835.68 in ingredients. This began with Mr. Beer HME cans, then extract batches, then all grain starting last year. This includes some items still in inventory. I have brewed roughly 128 batches totaling 308 gallons or 3,283 bottles. Just on ingredients, that's $6.71 per 12 pack. Add in consumables, and it's $7.09 per 12 pack. Add in equipment and it's $8.72 per 12 pack.
  17. Let me be more direct. It would be total waste of time.
  18. RickBeer

    Bottle Capper

    I fill a bottle from the bottom up, with a bottling wand. I pay no attention to what comes out of the top, because it doesn't matter, since the foam causes zero harm by the time you go to drink the beer. You couldn't stop it from coming out the top regardless.
  19. RickBeer

    Bottle Capper

    Don't know what to tell you. Don't fear the foam, don't fear the foam, don't fear the foam.
  20. RickBeer

    Bottle Capper

    You should not make a bottle tree out of oak, no. You also couldn't possibly make it as cheap as buying it.
  21. RickBeer

    Bottle Capper

    Here's my process. I have a bottle tree and a vinator (bottle rinser). Mine tree doesn't have the right top to put the vinator on it, but that's fine for me. I put the vinator on a plate. I fill it with some StarSan, then hit each bottle with 3 pushes, and put them on the tree to drain. When I'm ready to bottle, I pull 8 bottles off the tree and put them on the counter, fill them with my bottling wand, then place a cap (that was in a bowl soaking in Star San) on top. When 8 are filled, I cap them.
  22. RickBeer

    Bottle Capper

    Rinsing the caps is smart. Washing them in soap, not so much. Washing them period is overkill. I dump mine in a strainer, rinse them off, dump in bowl of Star San. Dipping the bell of the capper in anything is a good way to rust things out. Totally not needed. No part of the capper touches anything that matters. Cap is on bottle rim, that's it.
  23. RickBeer

    Bottle Capper

    Caps should be sitting in sanitizer. Instead of a wet dish towel, using a bench capper ensures that your bottles never slide... 😉
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