Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by RickBeer

  1. RickBeer

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    I sanitize the packet of dry yeast (if it's waterproof as many are). I then put it on a sanitized plate that has dried. I then open it with dry sanitized scissors, and pour 1/2 of the contents onto a coffee filter on my scale (that's how you know it's half...). I then fold the top several times with my sanitized hands, and place a piece of scotch tape to hold it closed. I then place the yeast in a ziplock that I wiped out with a sanitized paper towel and let dry. I would not throw an opened yeast packet in the frig, clipped shut or not, and then simply use it.
  2. RickBeer

    Cold crashing and bottle carbonating

    There is no impact, see link in my sig. I cold crash EVERY batch.
  3. RickBeer

    Cold crashing and bottle carbonating

    4 weeks is better than 3
  4. RickBeer

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    For what purpose?
  5. RickBeer

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

  6. RickBeer

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    No problem. Big difference between "saving yeast" (which to most means harvesting yeast from a just completed fermentation) and pitching half a pouch as he asked about. I shouldn't have used the word "save" because it's confusing.
  7. RickBeer

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    Sure. Dry yeast you can sanitize package, cut with sanitized scissors, use 1/2, fold and refrigerate for a short period in a sanitized ziplock, and you might be fine (not that a new brewer should try this). The number of cells in a dry yeast package (11, 11.5 grams) is more than needed for a 5 gallon batch. It is easy to pour the contents onto a sanitary surface on a scale (coffee filter) and measure out half. This would only be for a packet designed for 5 gallons, used in a 2 or 2.5 gallon batch. Liquid yeast pouches need to be shaken and kneaded to make it homogeneous, then sanitized, then poured into the wort. Measuring out half of the contents, assuming they are mixed correctly for an equal distribution of cells (unless you have a microscope), then saving half in a sanitary environment, is not advised. Harvesting the yeast cake can of course be done, but not by a novice brewer. And that's not using half the packet. That's why I said a half pouch of liquid yeast should not be saved.
  8. RickBeer

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    You cannot save liquid yeast...
  9. RickBeer

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    I've never used anything but dry yeast in my beers. I suggest you read the descriptions on Imperial's website: https://www.imperialyeast.com/organic-yeast-strains/ A04 Barbarian Ready to attack your IPA, Barbarian produces stone fruit esters that work great when paired with citrus hops. Barbarian will give you what you need for an exceptionally balanced IPA. Temp: 62-70F, 16-21C // Flocculation: Medium // Attenuation: 73-74% A38 Juice Juicy. Fruity. Juice is an amazing strain for East Coast IPAs. The ester profile of Juice brings out the aromas and flavors of the new school hops and creates a beer that is greater than the sum of its parts. Keep an eye on this strain, it likes to move to the top of fermentation and will climb out the fermenter if too full. Temp: 64-74F, 18-23C // Flocculation: Medium // Attenuation: 72-76%
  10. RickBeer

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    You want to have a 21 day fermentation, with nothing added any later than day 14. This recipe has hops being added on day 3, 8, and 13. The later, the stronger the aroma. I would tell you that IF we did 10 different ways of dry hopping, and then did a blind taste test, there isn't a person alive that you could identify them. I would add all of them at day 13, but that's me. I'm actually dry hopping on Friday a Black IPA, with all of them (2 hops) going it at once. Make sure you sanitize a dish, a hop sack, a string, then put the hops in the sack and tie it with the string and gently lower it in to the fermenter.
  11. RickBeer

    Bottling/Conditioning in Growlers

    Most growlers cannot take the pressure that builds during carbonating and conditioning. Do not use them.
  12. RickBeer

    Capping/bottling mishap

    Make sure you're not using screw top bottles. The necks on those bottles are weaker and break easy. I have never brought a new bottle. I have approximately 600 564 12 oz glass bottles, every one a recycled bottle. There is nothing that needs to be sanitized on a capper except the cap which you place on the bottle. Then wipe out the bell so that it doesn't rust from the sanitizer. Super Agata Bench Capper
  13. RickBeer

    Bottle conditioning techiques

    As stated several times, you need to put your bottles in the fridge for 3 days for the carbonation to properly absorb into the beer. 3 days, not 3 hours. You posted that your bottles might have been at 59, and on Tuesday you said you would move them to 70 and understood you need 4 weeks. It's 3 days later. Patience is required in this hobby. And that's trub, not sugar as stated. Again, I strongly suggest you spend some hours reading the forum.
  14. RickBeer

    Guiness Irish Wheat Clone

    I said this back on 9/13.
  15. RickBeer

    MUG Nationals

    I checked BJCP and Gusher is not a beer style, sorry.
  16. If you think this is cold crashing, please immediately sell your kit on Craigslist and exit the hobby. To find out what cold crashing is, read the next post. No beer was harmed in the posting of this picture.
  17. No, what I meant is that the site you reference, homebrewingstoredirectory.com is a blog put together to gain advertising dollars. A few posts in 2014, then one in 2016, probably because he didn't get the ad revenue he expected. He also owns https://www.catholicretreats.net Stop reading blogs written by people simply copying info from elsewhere. A good source for learning more about brewing would be John Palmer's book, How To Brew (4th edition). You can read the first edition, from 2000, online for free. http://www.howtobrew.com/ Or get it from your local library. John Palmer is a guru. Much of what's posted here on the forum was figured out by brewers after hundreds of trials. 3-4 was developed by brewers, not by Mr. Beer, when people found that the results from Mr. Beer's earlier versions, brewed for a week and bottled for a week or two (can't recall right now), were crap. Mr. Beer has since modified it's instructions to follow what we figured out. I started on this forum in February 2012, and read and read what the experienced brewers (nearly all left a few years ago before Mr. Beer was purchased by Coopers). Then I started contributing. Brewed my first batch 6 years ago, and learned and learned along the way. Still learning today. Last year I went and got a Certificate in Brewing and Distillation Technology, took 7 college courses (in person, not over the internet). And I'm still learning today. I've made mistakes you haven't even thought of making. I don't get paid for posting here (hint, Tim), my sole purpose in posting is to convey what I've learned to others.
  18. RickBeer

    First Batch - Open Bottles Go Flat?

    Stop reading elsewhere. If you follow Mr. Beer's instructions, pitching temp was fine. You simply drank it too soon as we said.
  19. Sounds like a very high quality site by the name... 4 weeks in the bottle, not 3, at 70 or higher. Then at least 3 days in the frig. If you spend all your time looking for alternate opinions on all aspects of brewing, you will find them. Lots of people don't know crap.
  20. Go back and read the first post, after the picture. It answers your questions.
  21. RickBeer

    First Batch - Open Bottles Go Flat?

    To clarify, you want two different temp ranges. For fermenting, 65 is great. For carbonating bottles, 70 or higher. And use the 3-4 rule. 3 weeks fermenting (wort temp 65), 4 weeks carbonating/conditioning at 70 or higher, than 3 days in the frig for what you're ready to drink. By the way, the "nice head to start" has no correlation with how carbonated the beer is. Most Mr. Beer batches have no head, yet are nicely carbed. Pour down the side until half full, then pour right into the middle for the other half. Don't pour the last 1/4 inch, full of trub, into your glass. Stop when the pouring liquid turns cloudy.
  22. RickBeer


    Right. And try to keep the wort temperature at around 65. That may take ice packs or frozen water bottles in a cooler rotated every 12 hours or so. After 3 weeks fermenting, bottle and store the bottles at 70 or higher for 4 weeks. Then, put in the frig the number of bottles you'll drink 3 days later.
  23. RickBeer

    Something other than booster

    There is no reason to use more than a Mr. Beer yeast packet for a 2.5 gallon brew. I routinely use 1/2 of a regular yeast packet (11, 11.5g) for a 2.5 gallon brew. It is NOT stressing the yeast. The old Mr. Beer yeast was 3 grams, not 5.
  24. RickBeer

    Something other than booster

    Using a tool like QBrew, you can do "what-ifs" with a recipe to determine the impact of proposed additions. QBrew can be obtained here: http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/2010/09/qbrew-homebrewers-recipe-calculator.html and you need to also add the ingredient database mentioned further down. There's no "I think", it's simple math, and QBrew does it for you. A Mr. Beer batch is 2.13 gallons, i.e. 8.5 quarts. Adding 1 1/2 quarts of water would be an increase of 17.6%. That's is "much more". That's why you need to add malt (LME, DME, or steeped grains) to counteract the impact of the added water to the recipe. If a recipe produces 5% ABV in 2.13 gallons, and you increase to 2.5 gallons, you need to add that same percentage increase in malt extract. QBrew will show you the recipe as is, then you can experiment with adding LME/DME and extra dark brown sugar. You may also want to read about adjuncts, specifically the impact of extra dark brown sugar. Yeast eats the sugar, leaving unsweetened molasses. That's a very bitter taste. You should also read this blog post that among other things discusses the max amount of adjuncts you should add. https://www.mrbeer.com/blog/tips-when-increasing-the-alcohol-level-in-your-homebrew/ As far as hop tea, maybe you found an article about making hop tea with a french press, but that's a new one on me, at least with hop pellets. Don't know what you'd be pressing. Of course you would also need to sanitize all equipment since you're dry hopping right into the bottle. I'll point out one last thing. This hobby has a very high drop out rate (homebrewing in general, not Mr. Beer specifically). There are some main reasons that people drop out: 1) Don't follow instructions, make crappy beer, and quit. 2) Go all mad scientist, not knowing the impact of changes they make, and then wondering why they made crappy beer. I'm all for modifying recipes, but know the impact that your proposed change(s) are going to make. Try one change at a time, see the impact, then make another change.
  25. RickBeer

    First batch ever. Flat

    Pull them and let them sit at 70 or higher for 4 weeks. Then, refrigerate just what you'll drink in 3 days for 3 days. Leave the rest out. And in the meantime, go back and review the directions for the kit.