Brian N.

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Brian N. last won the day on October 5 2016

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About Brian N.

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    Brewmaster in Training

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    Male
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    Sailing, camping, fly fishing, hiking, archery, ham radio, family & friends -brewing
  1. Look under Rickbeer's post for "How to Read a Hydrometer" Bonsai & Brew provided the equation. There are on-line calculators such as the one on "Screwy Brewer". Worth taking a time to read and mull over. BTW - Welcome to the Forum.
  2. The common wisdom is that "fresh is better". Go with the recipe.
  3. Glad to see that your enjoying the hobby. I brew more than I drink, so friends are always willing to help me out, which is half the fun.
  4. Oktoberfest with one of the MB LME packets will be very good. They sell the deluxe kit with the smooth LME. I am not a fan of adding booster, I would rather add more malt, for flavor and body.
  5. As RickBeer said, they may have lost a little carbonation, but now that they are sealed, leave them be. I bet that you'll have no noticeable difference in carbonation, especially if you primed with the amount of sugar recommended by MB.
  6. Cheech - I brew on the cooler side too. Beers have been fermenting just fine, just give it the full three weeks, even if the hydrometer says it is done. In truth, my last few beers have been over three weeks by a few days, just because I can't find time to bottle, and again, they are fine.
  7. On my second Churchill nut brown - brewed it as is from the "kit". Came out exactly as advertised - including the color. Easy to drink, less bitter than expected, but very good.
  8. Ryan - three weeks is usually enough time to fully ferment and the yeast to "do a little clean-up". If it tastes like flat beer, you should be good to go. I usually do not cold crash, but many do. Also - I find that 3/4 teaspoon produces too much carbonation for my taste. But, try it and adjust next time.
  9. Aeration of the wort will help get the yeast started. If you forget, you'll probably not notice any difference. If you added cool tap water to the LBK before the wort, there is plenty of dissolved oxygen to get the yeast going, before they enter their anaerobic phase. BTW - Welcome to the forum.
  10. I find that the priming schedule from MB results in my beers having too much carbonation. I use the Priming calculator from the Screwy Brewer.
  11. Just a couple of things. General information - Brown plastic and glass do a very good job of blocking U.V. light which can quickly "skunk" a beer. But, it is best to avoid keeping the LBK in direct sunlight. Secondly - The cabinet temperature may have been 73 deg F, but that is ambient air temperature, and not the temperature of the fermenting wort. Temperatures in the 70's tend to favor "cider-like" flavors and other off tastes such as "butterscotch' and "band-aid plastic" (from chlorine). Mid 60's seem ideal for most M.B. ales made with M.B. yeast. Brewing is a learning process, and I'm not sure that we ever stop learning and improving.
  12. Can I ask why are you placing a towel over the LBK?
  13. I really forgot how nice it is to just open the can and in less than an hour (including cleaning) have a beer in the LBK fermenting. I had the Bewitched Amber Ale and a packet of LME from a while back. Cleaning the counter tops and sink area was the most time consuming part (especially since my wife said "By the way, while you are at it, you might as well clean the stove"). Just too busy to brew even a partial mash, and the M.B. I'm sure will turn out very good.
  14. Welcome to a great forum. Lots of friendly discussion and advice. Please read all of the stickies under RickBeer, it will help you to avoid some mistakes. We have many who post here and who have moved on to more advanced brewing, hopefully you'll be among them. Don't rush! Mr. Beer products make very good beers as is. As you gain experience, you'll find that the beers just get better and better (occasional bloopers). Relax, have a home brew, and welcome.
  15. I agree with RickBeer. This one may not be worth trying to save. Live and learn. Start a new beer.