Brian N.

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Everything posted by Brian N.

  1. No worry. The brown keg does a good job of blocking U.V. BTW - That famous imported beer in the green bottle, and Mexican beers in the clear glass always taste "skunky" to me. Try one of those fresh on tap if you have the opportunity. You will not believe they are the same beers you get in the bottle.
  2. Great database - No need to double or even triple the pitch. Sprinkling the small packet of dry yeast into the wort, without re hydrating, more than enough yeast cells will survive the shock (for the 2 gallon LBK). Lag time can be improved by aerating the wort.- gives the yeast a good start before they begin their anaerobic phase. Pitch at the correct temperature - not too hot.
  3. Fire Rooster - Variety is great. When I do buy beer, I often look for new and different beers. If I'm out at a restaurant or Pub, again I'll look for local craft beers or something different. When it comes to brewing, you're the boss. I'm not a fan of going overboard, "Mad Scientist" crazy mixing things. However, some things might work out well.
  4. A dark malty beer with lots of hop bitterness - why not, give it a try! But, are you going to use the gold packet of MB yeast from both? This one could be a monster with the dark malts. Not sure if I would substitute the yeast or not, or if you should pitch both packets. Requires some thought and perhaps input from others on the forum.
  5. Not sure how sensitive dry yeast are to thermal shock. Osmotic shock, absolutely.
  6. An advantage of the MB LBK and process is that if you're into smaller batches of beer - it is very easy (just as advertised). Questions - Did you use a can of hopped extract to make the wort? If so, what size can? You said you measured the O.G. at 1.065, which is a healthy number, lots of malt. As I'm thinking about it, what was the temperature of the wort when you measured O.G.? The reason I'm asking is that your beer may have more malt/ fermentable sugars than you think.
  7. Think about adding water to your morning coffee, diluting it to 50% of its original strength. Sorry - but this one may be beyond repair. If anything it will be a VERY lite beer. Question: What process are you using for the 1 gallon batch? Transfer to a carboy has me confused.
  8. Also - Research the different hop varieties. They differ greatly in hop "character" and in their use. Some are more citrus like, others earthy. Some are better for bitterness, others for aroma. Some complement English Brown ales, others lighter lagers. Often, if you are after a certain beer "clone", the hop variety can make all the difference (as well as how it is used).
  9. I've gone down to even less sugar! I beginning to think that fermenting at 64-66 deg F for 3 weeks leaves some fermentable products in the green beer. They are consumed slowly during conditioning and add to the sugar you added for priming - thus the gushers. I'm rusty on my biochemistry from grad school (1980?), but yeast are capable of metabolizing more than simple disaccharides such as maltose and sucrose.
  10. Irish Stout is a good one. I used a lot less priming sugar than recommended, and it still had good carbonation and a long lasting head as in your picture. However, I've been fermenting my beers at a much cooler temperature (64-66 deg F), often for 3 weeks plus a couple of days. Beer is smooth, with great stout flavor, no "bite" lasting after the swallow. Sadly, I've run out and my brew schedule is full until summer, when I take a break.
  11. Any "apple cider" taste?
  12. What RickBeer said! Two cans of extract will produce a good beer. Three additional LME soft packs is a lot of malt for two gallons, and booster is unnecessary. Add hops if you like, but remember the extract already has a good hop character, so don't add too much.
  13. Funny how after so many brews, the same recipe, yeast, etc, each is so individual. Kind of like children - same parents, same DNA, but yet different. My Churchill's which I started Sunday has the strangest fermentation I've seen. Big and foamy like a bubble bath. I'm not worried that the beer will be bad, just a comment on how brewing is only part science, part art and partly unknown.
  14. Look under Rickbeer's post for "How to Read a Hydrometer" Bonsai & Brew provided the equation. There are on-line calculators such as the one on "Screwy Brewer". Worth taking a time to read and mull over. BTW - Welcome to the Forum.
  15. The common wisdom is that "fresh is better". Go with the recipe.
  16. Glad to see that your enjoying the hobby. I brew more than I drink, so friends are always willing to help me out, which is half the fun.
  17. Oktoberfest with one of the MB LME packets will be very good. They sell the deluxe kit with the smooth LME. I am not a fan of adding booster, I would rather add more malt, for flavor and body.
  18. As RickBeer said, they may have lost a little carbonation, but now that they are sealed, leave them be. I bet that you'll have no noticeable difference in carbonation, especially if you primed with the amount of sugar recommended by MB.
  19. Cheech - I brew on the cooler side too. Beers have been fermenting just fine, just give it the full three weeks, even if the hydrometer says it is done. In truth, my last few beers have been over three weeks by a few days, just because I can't find time to bottle, and again, they are fine.
  20. On my second Churchill nut brown - brewed it as is from the "kit". Came out exactly as advertised - including the color. Easy to drink, less bitter than expected, but very good.
  21. Ryan - three weeks is usually enough time to fully ferment and the yeast to "do a little clean-up". If it tastes like flat beer, you should be good to go. I usually do not cold crash, but many do. Also - I find that 3/4 teaspoon produces too much carbonation for my taste. But, try it and adjust next time.
  22. Aeration of the wort will help get the yeast started. If you forget, you'll probably not notice any difference. If you added cool tap water to the LBK before the wort, there is plenty of dissolved oxygen to get the yeast going, before they enter their anaerobic phase. BTW - Welcome to the forum.
  23. I find that the priming schedule from MB results in my beers having too much carbonation. I use the Priming calculator from the Screwy Brewer.
  24. I really forgot how nice it is to just open the can and in less than an hour (including cleaning) have a beer in the LBK fermenting. I had the Bewitched Amber Ale and a packet of LME from a while back. Cleaning the counter tops and sink area was the most time consuming part (especially since my wife said "By the way, while you are at it, you might as well clean the stove"). Just too busy to brew even a partial mash, and the M.B. I'm sure will turn out very good.
  25. Just a couple of things. General information - Brown plastic and glass do a very good job of blocking U.V. light which can quickly "skunk" a beer. But, it is best to avoid keeping the LBK in direct sunlight. Secondly - The cabinet temperature may have been 73 deg F, but that is ambient air temperature, and not the temperature of the fermenting wort. Temperatures in the 70's tend to favor "cider-like" flavors and other off tastes such as "butterscotch' and "band-aid plastic" (from chlorine). Mid 60's seem ideal for most M.B. ales made with M.B. yeast. Brewing is a learning process, and I'm not sure that we ever stop learning and improving.