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zorak1066

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zorak1066 last won the day on August 17 2018

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About zorak1066

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    good job Mr Beer! thanks for making this place feel like 'home' again.

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  1. zorak1066

    Bottling/Carbonating in 1 Gallon Jugs

    you could always try something like this https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/mini-kegs/products/mini-keg
  2. zorak1066

    Bottling/Carbonating in 1 Gallon Jugs

    unless a jug or bottle was manufactured to hold carbonated bevvies... i would not carb/bottle in it. you risk bottle bombs of epic proportions. same thing for plastic bottles. i reuse my plastic carbonated water bottles for beer. they never see sunlight so no worries on UV skunking. they were made to hold CO2 at about the same levels as beer so ...
  3. zorak1066

    hydrometer vs refractometer

    rick my glass hydrometer is from when i first started brewing ages ago... it hasnt killed itself yet. the only piece of original equipment to commit suicide was my bottling wand... and it was plastic. while removing the tubing i heard SNAP.. sadness. i find that by singing to my hydrometer as i lovingly unwrap it for use... and when i clean it, that it stays happy and healthy.
  4. zorak1066

    hydrometer vs refractometer

    another thing i discovered with a refractometer.. if you dont stir the wort to mix it up before taking a measure, you get layers of different gravity. i would leave the wort sit and then get to measuring the grav with the refractometer and wonder why i was always missing my target og.
  5. zorak1066

    When to use a "Krausen Kollar"

    creeps... beer has all the nutrient your body ever will need.they even named a vitamin after it.. vitamin B for Beer. no need to clutter it up with fruit. ive been drinking beer for ages and i'm in the best shape i've ever been in... round.
  6. zorak1066

    Problems with Mr Beer Website

    whats 'phone'? :P
  7. zorak1066

    When to use a "Krausen Kollar"

    fruit??? in beer? ptooey! yeah.. dumping in tons of fermentables when the yeast has chewed through the wort can cause messy fruit volcanoes.
  8. zorak1066

    When to use a "Krausen Kollar"

    this is what using a collar hopes to prevent....
  9. zorak1066

    When to use a "Krausen Kollar"

    if you ferment in a big enough fermenter you will never need a collar. if your fermenter is 2 gallons and you brew a 1.5 gallon batch, it should be able to handle even a very vigorous fermentation. it's all about the headspace.. or how much room you give the wort to expand before it spews out the top. i try to have about 3 inches of headspace in my buckets and fermenters. the collar is used to keep the krausen from turning into volcano and blowing out the top of the fermenter by giving it a little extra expansion room. it isnt the style of beer that causes aggressive fermentations. it is the yeast. my 3rd mr beer kit was the diablo with some tweaks. i used us04 i think. the yeast was particularly aggressive and my 3 gallon fermenter with 1 gallon of headspace filled with krausen... shot the foam out the airlock and it continued to gush like a volcano for over a whole day.
  10. zorak1066

    Problems with Mr Beer Website

    frequent backups of all your servers would help. if you are unfortunate enough to get ransomware... wipe the drive.. restore from backup.
  11. zorak1066

    Problems with Mr Beer Website

    seriously though.. why would anyone do a denial of service attack on mr beer? unless Inbev is behind it? but then why would they resort to hacking? they just buy everyone that is a threat.
  12. zorak1066

    Boiling Yeast?

    on rehydrating yeast... i vaguely recall one of our old guard stating that anything beyond a 10-15 degree difference in temp from the rehydrating solution and the current wort temp could cause thermal shock. an unrelated point: when im doing a really high gravity ferment like hobo wine , after rehydrating i'll temper the yeast to the gravity by adding about a teaspoon of the must, stirring... let it sit for a couple minutes.. .repeat then after a few times i'll pitch. dont know about mutants. how would one know? ive never had really off fermentations that i can think of so if ive ever got mutant yeast cells they seem to do the same job. for really old yeast? yep. a starter would be ideal... ive got some really old pasteur red that will get a starter on my next hobo wine. it's way past best by date and the must will be high gravity. sometimes though i just dont have the motivation to run a starter for a day or two. getting that darn stir bar to stay put sometimes drives me nutty. yeast today are pretty amazing and really hardy. you can really be careless with them and they will still make good beer.
  13. zorak1066

    Boiling Yeast?

    yes. yes. yes and no. old or unwanted yeast can be boiled to kill it. i start timing when it reaches a low boil and then let it cook for about 5 minutes or so. then i flame out, cover and cool. alternatively you can add it to your boil and cook like that. you want the old yeast killed especially if you are brewing using a yeast with a desired flavor profile. you dont want any of the crud yeast surviving and potentially out-eating the good yeast. wort has tons of nutrients all on its own. if the yeast are relatively fresh (and you pitch enough) and not subjected to stress like heat/cold/or very high gravity they will do just fine. adding nutrient in the form of dead cells is like serving dessert at the start of a meal. the yeast will love you for it.. but will tuck into the dead cells or other nutrient first before tucking into the wort. any time i add nutrient be it yeast , raisins, sugar, etc... i get a little lag time added then the yeast go nuts. so absolutely not necessary in most cases. when i use tired old yeast out of necessity, or i am making something with a very high o.g. i add nutrient. i will also add a little more toward the midpoint of a high grav fermentation. example: making a belgian dubbel or trippel. these typically call for beet sugar additions. i do step feedings to keep the yeast from pigging out on junk food before they start working on the wort. the staged feedings keep them active and happy, and relatively stress free.
  14. zorak1066

    Infection Leading to Sour Aftertaste?

    yeast rafts take on many forms. when i use us04 i get floaty tan/orange colored clumps of yeast at multiple levels within the wort. some topside. some below. it's normal. yeast sometimes link hands and sing kumbaya for reasons only yeast know. sour producing infections look like shrike's pics. when those snotty white clumps join up they form a 'pellicle'. it's like a semi-hard protective fingernail like scale to seal off the wort below and allow the bacteria to eat all your lovely alcohol. i had a lacto bacillus infection in a pumpkin weis that looked like pic 2. big snotty white/grey bubbles. there is a difference between 'sour' and 'tart' that many people get confused on. fermenting too hot produces a cidery green apple tartness that some perceive as 'sour'. true sour is more like eating unflavored, unsweetened yogurt. sour. puckering mouth, pinchy face sour. atomic warhead candy sour. sucking on lemons sour. tart like you get in wheat beers, is more like semi ripe cherry sharpness of flavor. or perhaps real cranberry in nature. acetobacter infections produce vinegar flavors. the more alcohol the bug converts to acetic acid, the more intense the off taste until it gets so strong you can actually damage your mouth. brett-c infections produce the sour similar to a lacto infection. people intentionally brew with brett c to make various sour beers that i am not a fan of myself. infections arent that common if you exercise even the slightest good hygiene when brewing. there's an ancient thread here somewhere about Mashani's cat butt ale. lol... it's a classic.
  15. zorak1066

    Star San

    'dont fear the foam' is the marketing line for starsan. as i am dumping the solution out of the bottles i try to swirl the bottle around to create a little vortex as it is draining. i still get some foam left behind. it's fine.
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