zorak1066

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zorak1066 last won the day on December 23 2016

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About zorak1066

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    good job Mr Beer! thanks for making this place feel like 'home' again.
  1. good for you. ive been on hiatus myself.... way too freaking hot out to brew and I need propane. been doing hobo wines instead to get me through summer.
  2. rick said it.
  3. seal crushed grain in a ziplock bag and put that in a Tupperware with a lid... keep it in a relatively stable temp with low humidity. it should last quite a while.
  4. ive used carapils that was in a lunch bag (paper) stored in a bottom drawer with my brewing equipment for over a year, but uncracked. it still worked just as well. youre fine. if you crushed the grain and let it sit in open air for years I would say ... meh... but you didn't. I doubt anyone's taste buds are so highly tuned that they can taste the difference in beer made with freshly crushed malt vs stuff that came out of a Tupperware from several months ago.
  5. EPETE! welcome back! partial mash are easy. you can mash in a grain bag in a pot with a lid because it will be a small scale. you can mash in a large mason jar and strain out the grain. you can do all kinds of things. if kept to a small scale you probably wont need to be too worried about water chemistry too much... I could be wrong. temperature of mashing and sparging will be important. mashing is different from steeping because you are converting more starch to sugar... your efficiency will be higher than steeping. steeps are typically done for body or color. mashing for everything...flavor...body... color...aroma... there's all kinds of good sources out there to learn partial and full mashing. https://byo.com/partial-mashing http://www.onebeer.net/grainchart.html http://beersmith.com/grain-list/ you can easily do a mix of LME or HME and grain. you just have to know what you are adding to it and what to expect. when you decide you want to take the plunge and go all grain, expect some cost and lots of extra work... some math... some chemistry... but the perk is: because you do all the work and not some kit maker, you can brew 5 gallons batches for peanuts. don't rush things. go at your own pace... and do your homework before you try a new way of doing things. welcome back!
  6. soy has more phytoestrogens than hops ever will. American men are becoming sissified because they eat too much soy products... directly or indirectly. the government puts gobs of it in processed foods to keep us fat and passive. the ONLY cure is to consume MORE alcohol!
  7. not a fan of pumpkin beer. if you do get a kit from here and add the puree , two things to keep in mind. 1) use the amount called for in the recipe. adding a whole can when a half is called for you will end up with a mess come bottling time. 2) bake your puree in the oven to bring the temp up to about 160f for maybe 10 mins, on a cookie sheet , then let it cool. put in hop sack before adding. I used the puree right from the can. I did not pasteurize it and trusted libby's to have done it for me. wrong. it was canned in mexico according to the label (noticed long after the addition). the wort got a lacto infection that made it sour like yogurt... and the sludge was a horrible mess come bottling time because I added a whole can when 1/2 was called for. ive used mulling spice once in a beer. the clove in it was overly strong.. go easy til you find the right measure. extracts are good for adding flavor but again don't over add.
  8. when you have made a few batches you can start adding steeps of carapils grain to add to the wort. this will improve head retention and body. or you can add a LME pack of mr beer unhopped malt. I never judge a beer based on head retention though. ive had awesome beers that lost their head quickly.
  9. I'm on the fence on refractometer use. I never hit my target OG using it. I only discovered much later that the wort settles and gravity will vary at different locations in the pot... to give it a stir before testing. I do like that you only need a drop of wort.
  10. back in the 80s I had the 'pleasure' of drinking garage kept beer. lol.... a friends father owned a bar in the 70s. when it went belly up he moved about 30 bins of jumbo bottles of Altes Beer home to his garage in Michigan. for over 10 years I think they sat in Michigan heat...cold... all year round. my chum and I thought it would be cool to break into it and get drunk. it was bad. couldn't get past the first glug from a bottle. I don't remember too much from the 80s. I did a lot of silly things to myself and killed quite a few brain cells.
  11. take brewing to whatever level you are happy doing. when it becomes too much work or a bother, you end up walking away from the hobby. if you like mr beer kits and are pleased with your results then brava! your opinion is all that counts. me? I love overcomplicating things. if I had the money I would be chin deep in grains and hops and stacks of chemical addition recipes for water etc. i'd be brewing every day. homemade soup IS better than canned... but ... if you are fine with canned, bon appetite! oh and cans properly stored in a climate controlled environment , can keep for years. finished beer can keep indefinitely if properly stored. if I made up 1000 bottles of beer then stored them in my garage in summer.... ack. cellar them though and they can keep forever. they just undergo some flavor changed over time. grain gets more prominent. hops get muted. flavors meld and mellow.... etc.
  12. hydrometers are great but there is the tendency to test and test and test... and lose volumes of beer before its done. unless you sanitize the hydrometer and dump the sample back, you diminish the final volume. you could drink your sample but again... yeast gut isn't fun. I would give it 3 weeks... take a single hydrometer sample. . . unless it is way off expected final grav. remember adding things like lactose will impact your final gravity. lactose bumps it up due to un-fermentable sugars. .. if youre using a saison yeast, it is not uncommon for the buggers to drop your final grav below 1.01 . bottle too soon and you can get bottle bombs. I always ferment my saisons warm and about 2 days before bottling bump up the heat a little more. bella saison is a monster.
  13. if you do a bottling sample never judge your beer at bottling time. your sample will have lots of yeast and be unconditioned so it will taste a little funky. also be prepared if you drink a larger sample for excessive tummy gas at the least , and the squirts with cramps at the most if you aren't used to ingesting yeast. the little buggers get into your stomach and intestines and have a field day eating anything left floating around in your gut. on the plus side yeast are high in vitamin b's... I recall my first trub bottle that I sampled. lol... they should market it for weight loss. crap yourself to the new and exciting you!
  14. you might want to wipe down the inside of the fridge with a mild bleach solution too in case mold spores latched onto it. you might consider getting a DAMP-RID container and putting it on the bottom shelf to act as a kind of dehumidifier. bad thing is that youll likely have to constantly dump it and add more damprid. don't know how effective it would be.. just a thought.
  15. all 'natural' beer made from grape nuts cereal, grass clippings and bread yeast! mmmmmm..... ooo with oatmeal! the beer that drinks like a breakfast.. only BETTER coz its got grass!