Nickfixit

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Nickfixit last won the day on January 30

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  1. I don't think one has to really stir it up that well, the yeast will find it. But it sort of goes against the grain to ferment lumpy stuff. Haha - "against the grain " (unintentional.)
  2. Toss it in and be prepared to stir it VERY WELL for a LONG TIME if you want it dissolved.
  3. These days I cook mostly so I fill it with people food. She takes care of pets so she fills it with dog and cat food (1 + 6 (includes 1 hospice cat and one blind cat waiting for adoption)). It is a battle to see who has more food in there. But I am the only one gets the beer - lol.
  4. Mine too KNOWS I have OBD. But I am confined to basement except for wet/hot brewing work (kitchen) and one corner of the fridge. I actually got a couple jars of saved yeast in there without comment.
  5. No Booster is not DME - DME is Dried Malt Extract. Booster is a mix of the refined chemicals that are in DME but with none of the color or flavor components. According to Mr B website: Use Booster™ to add alcohol and body to any recipe without the dry, cidery taste that comes from using sugar. Each pouch of Booster™ adds about 1.3% ABV per batch. Booster™ is made from corn syrup solids and is ideally suited for use as a brewing adjunct. It provides a full and balanced range of both fermentable and unfermentable sugars that are designed to mimic the carbohydrate profile of all-malt wort, consisting of 8% glucose, 56% maltose, 16% maltotriose, and 20% dextrins Compare that with sugar - an approx. equivalent family is Brown Treacle or corn syrup or Molasses is like LME, Dark Brown sugar is like DME, white sugar or maybe icing sugar is like Booster. BUT These are NOT the same as the LME/DME etc. You can add cane sugar to beer but for other purposes. I use booster if I want to add ABV and mouth feel to a beer but do not want to change the color or flavor of the HME can. Malt Extract beers always tend to be darker than ones made from grain anyway - even without adding more LME/DME. LME is easy to add and you get no real mess especially the Mr B packets. DME is easy to use if you add it to the water while it is cool and stir it to mix before it clumps and stir while heating to prevent burn. It also is a very light powder so will fly around and stick to things. If pouring into a hot container the steam will cake it up around where you are pouring it from. Booster is also a light powder and will also similarly cake up and requires a lot of stirring to prevent it sticking. Often it will clump into one big lump but if you keep stirring it will eventually go. Adding it to cold liquid and heating while stirring works best for me. Even if there is still a lump when you put the wort into the LBK (with the lump too) it will dissolve over time and be fine. Some of the brewers able like real malty beers so they prefer to add DME or LME getting the malt color and flavor. If you want to maintain the light flavor for example of wheat beers or CAL you can use booster to up the ABV and mouth feel. But it can be used with any beer for the same purpose.
  6. OK there are a few options depending on your taste. You are experienced enough to adapt anyway you want. The simple recipe will be mild and refreshing and a little tart. Then you can amp it up in any way you want next time. Start with Mr B Bavarian Weissbier and a wheat yeast. You can use Mr B yeast or more to style, Belgian Yeast like WLP400 or Wyeast Belgian ones are better. The HME is in the proper IBU range already so you don't need more bittering but you can add some hop for flavor or aroma depending but you don't have to. The beer is flavored with citrus peel. Traditional is dried bitter orange peel but many people in USA prefer fresh zest grated off sweet oranges. It is also flavored with crushed coriander seeds and optionally other spices to taste. You can do a partial mash - or not. Steep of oats and flaked wheat (and optionally light grain malt (pilsner) will help give body and haziness. You can boil the peel and spices and take them out before fermenting (Like Hoegaarden say) or leave them in when fermenting. I guess the amounts and flavors will be a little different. So here is an easy one to try If you want to do partial mash (but you don't have to), you can do a) 4 oz inst oatmeal, or b ) oatmeal and 4 oz flaked wheat, or c) oatmeal, wheat and 4 oz pilsner malt. All will work in differing degrees. Rice hulls may help but I did not try yet. Make this liquid up to 4 cups for next step if you do. Dissolve I pack booster or 1 pack pale/pilsner LME/DME in 4 cups water. Booster will be lighter less malty color beer. Bring to boil, add 1 orange zest and 1 tbs crushed coriander in a hop bag and optionally 0.5 oz. Saaz pellets and boil 5 min. (If using dried peel some say to boil it 15 min) . (If using dried peel try peel in the 5-10 gm range and similarly coriander .) Take off heat, dissolve 1 Bavarian WB HME , add wort and spice bag to cool water in LBK and top up. Pitch yeast in high 60's ferment a week then bring up to low 70s for 2 weeks (You can do it all at 70 but this is claimed preferred) Bottle etc. leave 6 weeks + For comparison at beer store get a bottle of Belgian Wit - Hoegaarden Blanche or Brasserie Lefebvre Blanche de Bruxelles. They use the dried peel so will be a bit different but authentic. I have also made them hoppy with 1.5 oz hops in but it is not authentic - lol.
  7. you can use nylon and wash /reuse? - for either boil or dry hop. I am lazy and I don't like to filter or clean out spigots when bottling so I use the bags, BUT if possible I use 1/2 bag and tie the ends with white string. Even the small bags you can do this for the hops for an LBK. The string is handy anyway when boiling - you can pull the bag out with it if you make it long enough. When doing partial mash I tie with a long string too then it is easy to manage.
  8. Sediment generally will settle out and harden up in a few weeks/months. Look at my post today of Baltic Porter (Watcha drinking tonight), that was less than 3 weeks in bottle, looks pretty clear to me - especially as it had 2x 30 minute car rides before drinking.
  9. I use sugar dots which are 2.5g these are 3.27 g. 3/4 of 3.27 is 2.45 so 1 dot is about right. I use 2 or 3 dots to a 750 mL (3 is WELL carbonated) or 3-4 to a 1L bottle. 12 oz = 354 ml so based on 1 drop per 500ml 3/4 is about right. (3/4 x 500 = 375) I would save the dots for PET bottles and use sugar dots for the glass bottles.
  10. The Mr Beer web site list all the ingredients in the recipes, unlike some Brewing supply sites that sell a "recipe" but don't tell you what is in it. So you can find substitute items for pretty much everything - as you say except the refills. Maybe not exact but close. The darker malt extracts are the most difficult I find to match. The other things, hops, yeast, you should find in a brewery store or supermarket. You have to find a brewery store that sells to grain brewers and you should find all the grains Mr B sells. The Mr B Smooth and Robust are nice extracts but if I don't have them I find Briess Sparking Amber is pretty close for Smooth, and I use the Briess Traditional Dark and Sparkling Amber mixed for Robust, but it is not as good a match. The robust is very nice. you don't get so much of that that residual bitterness from the dark malts that some extracts have. There are a lot more extracts on sale but I don't have experience to tell you what else substitutes well. For Golden, use a wheat extract, for Pale use a light extract or pilsner extract.
  11. You may get a foam fountain. Make sure you cool it well for several days if you do this, and open it over the sink or a basin so as not to lose beer :-)
  12. Alrighty, I think we got lost on screw cap bottles.................what was the recipe name/instructions??
  13. I did start another with WLP400 and close to same peel and coriander amounts, but no malted grain int he steepm just flaked wheat and oatmeal, but I did add a little hop saaz and styrian goldings 1/8 oz ea. for a 5-10 min boil then took them out and tool the coriander and peel out. Now fermenting at 66 deg. will warm it up in a day or 2. I decided I would try more spice in one brew so I added scalded crushed coriander (1 tsp) and cumin (1/16 tsp) to one of the Round 2 brews. (Of the 2 that were very close (actually LBK #1)
  14. Yes, for the HME, I dilute it all at once so I can divide it easily. You don't have to boil it, I just boil a bit of water and add all the HME then divide it up into the 3 LBKs. I do this last after I have dissolved any DME/booster or other per LBK ingredients (so I can tailor each LBK additions if I want - in malt or hops) and put them in the LBKs on top of the initial gal of cold water. I do not translate the original recipes exactly. I approximate - e.g. it might say for 6 gal use the HME and 1.5 Kg of DME. I will say OK that is 0.5kg DME per LBK, or 17.6 oz. I might use 1 lb DME as I prefer to use increments of pounds if I can or half pounds. Cooper's in AU seem to prefer not to boil if possible and you might try this is using a 6 gal fermenter. Recipes go like this and use one of the 3 summarized methods. They may have updated since I saw this but this will give you the idea. BAVARIAN PILSNER A beautiful beer with medium malt characteristics and the unmistakable aroma and flavour of Saaz hops. 1 can of Coopers Lager or Draught 500g Sugar, Glucose or Dextrose --> 17.6 oz (use booster at 80% fermentables)--> 22 oz 300g Light Dry Malt Extract --> 10.6 oz 20g Saaz Hop Pellets --> 0.7 oz Brewing Method:#2 So for 1 LBK, to make it easy I would do, Sugar = 6 oz - say 8 oz Booster, DME = 3.4 oz - say 4 oz DME, Hops = say .25 oz And I have limited packets with odd bits left and I think it is close enough. COOPERS HOMEBREW UNLIMITED BREWING METHODS You will need to make slight changes to the way you make your beer when using these recipes. In most cases, all you need to do is add a couple of simple steps when you are preparing the beer wort. After that you continue making the beer in the usual way. METHOD #1 1. Mix all the ingredients together in the fermenter with 3 – 4 litres of hot water. 2. Add cold water up to 23 litre mark and stir well. 3. When the temperature is below 30 deg.C. add the yeast and make your beer in the usual way. METHOD #2 1. Gently boil the hop pellets in 1 litre of water for 10 minutes. 2. Mix the boiled hops and water with other ingredients in the fermenter together with 2 – 3 litres of hot water. 3. Add cold water up to the 23 litre mark and stir well. 4. When the temperature is below 30 deg.C. add the yeast and make your beer the usual way. METHOD #3 1. Mix the cracked grains with about 1 litre of water and bring to the boil. 2. Boil gently for 20 minutes then add the hop pellets and turn the heat off at the same time. Let the hot mixture stand for about 10 minutes. 3. Pour the hot mixture through a fine strainer into the fermenter. Gently pour some hot water through the collected grain to rinse all the goodness into the fermenter. 4. Add the other ingredients to the fermenter plus some hot water if necessary and mix thoroughly. 5. Add cold water up to the 23 litre mark and stir well. 6. When the temperature is below 30 deg.C. add the yeast and make your beer the usual way.
  15. I make them as they recommend - and I try other enhancement experiments - as they make 3 LBKs If you make them straight up at 6 gal dilution they will be 2.5% ABV. Some people will just add less water, and they get more flavor and higher ABV. I use the 6 gal dilution and their recommended additions thatmay be DME or DME,Brew enhancer dextrose. Where they call for brew enhancer or dextrose I used Mr Beer Booster instead - figuring the appropriate amount based on the Booster % of fermentables. But I had to go through the calculations to get the appropriate amounts. Coopers have recipes on their website. There is also good activity on the Australian site and forums (using same HMEs) Pilsener e.g. I used 3 LBKs 1/3 can HME + 8 oz pils malt DME + 6 oz booster per LBK and 0.5 oz Saaz dry hop (hop not in recipe) --> 4-4.5% I upped the DME by 8 oz for a "Deluxe" version on another LBK --> 5-5.5% I added 1 lb of Amber DME to the 3rd - on top of the standard recipe. --> 6-6.5% Dark Ale 1/3 coopers can + 1 pack booster (= basic Cooper's recipe) makes a nice beer like UK "Mild Ale" - 3.5% I made some other variants in 2 other LBKs but the standard is the best. Australian Bitter Coopers Australian Bitter #1 1/3 HME + 1 lb light DME --> 4-4.5% - a very nice beer. I made some other variants in 2 other LBKs but the standard is the best.