Nickfixit

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Nickfixit last won the day on May 22

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  1. Unless you are making the wheat beer which traditionally gets the yeast dregs swirled and poured into the glass.
  2. For burning money - I can help, Just send it to me and trust that I burn it - Still we have several opinions. 1 - you can't get a traditional beer taste with bread yeast so it is a waste of time and money to try. 2. - if you do try don't use Fleischman's 3. - Some other brand yeast *Mills(maybe HodgsonsMill) gave an acceptable (to 1 person anyway) result 4. - Can try it and save $ using a simple extract brew. 5. - Some brewers are always curious to try new things. My conclusion - Most beer drinkers will not like beer brewed with Fleischman's yeast We do not know what beer brewed with HidgsoneMilltaste like We do not know that whatever the outcome TimelordJason may find this is his most favorite beer in the whole world. So I would say give it a try with HodgsonsMill and see. I doubt it will be undrinkable it just may taste strange. So probably does Kombucha. But then.....you can always pretend it is a new kind of beverage. Or like this http://brewingtv.com/episodes/2010/11/17/brewing-tv-episode-24-sahti-throwdown.html
  3. Why not? ...... it is you that has to drink it........ It will definitely be beer but google to see best temperature for it. I looked and found this comment: Warning: Do Not use Fleishmanns or any other major brand of bread yeast. Ive conducted many experiments in years past when brewing supply runs were day trips across los angeles. Even "organic yeast" grown in mollasses. I may have gotten perfect fermentation profiles out of ' em, but they would always leave an annoying (usually annoyin) taste means a single chemical. I actally found a brand at Albertsons for "whole grain bread" from something -Mills . Really english ale character. Floctuated really strong .sticky yeast. Maybe this one - you can buy it online. https://www.hodgsonmill.com/products/active-dry-yeast
  4. Um - am I confused? The hydrometer reading with distilled water should be 1.000 but instead reads 1.005. The error is +.005 so you would need to subtract 0.005 to get correct reading - no? So the when FG reads 1.015 on your hydrometer it is really 1.010?
  5. Um.... is the trub green because it has hops in it? Pellets are really finely ground up. If the beer turns out green you have to find some Irish friends. Yeah , I would not worry. I expect it is just the hop bits. I usually bag my hops so do not have green trub.
  6. LOL, I was taken seriously here, I figured you all would catch on to the idea of "just drinking another until they taste good" lol. Maybe I could have said it better......
  7. The answer is you just use them all, if when you open one, the beer tastes off, chug it quickly and try another. Eventually you will find one you consider good enough - then mark the bottle with a marker. Silver sharpie is good.
  8. You have any problem with apricot bits or do they settle out?
  9. Did you blend up the apricots? put them whole in a bag? or what?
  10. recipe

    I thought about it but I already have a queue of dark beer HME (ST Pats Stout, Baltic Porter and Cooper's Dark Ale). So I went for the lighter BOGO ones which I was out of.
  11. Experiments are good. I tried a test last year with/without yeast nutrient. Seems to me the fermentation of the nutrient beer was a little stronger and longer (based on look of bubbles) and the beer tasted a little cleaner at bottling. I made CAL with 1/2pound Golden Light DME and 0.5 oz Citra. +/- Servomyces nutrient. So the flavors were fairly light. I took advantage of the current BOGO offer (CAL and American Lager) so I might just make these again - good summer beer.
  12. I have been using the Mr Beer since 2013 and have never used a secondary. The beer is usually pretty clear. (Not crystal like filtered beer, see the beer pics I have posted) but it depends more on the yeast I think. I store my beer at mid 60's in basement. The carbonation takes a little longer than at 70 deg but it still gets there. I think it may depend how long you want to wait before drinking it. For me it also depends a bit on the yeast. Yeasts that are highly flocculent give me much clearer beer. I can see if you are wanting to force carbonate and drink within a couple weeks, then you may want to accelerate the clearing process. I can see if you want to bulk prime before bottling a secondary container would be needed to avoid mixing trub in. So there may be good reasons to use a secondary depending on one's process. I like things easy with minimal cleanup so I use just the LBK.
  13. I disagree with the idea of not entering MR Beer based brews into competitions if you want to (It will use ingredients anyone can get) - if it was that easy to make best of class brews using Mr. Beer, there might be more of them in the competitions. Mr. Beer makes it easy to make drinkable beer, sometimes good beer but probably not often competition rating beer. (I am not intending this as a put down of the MR B brews and I intend to continue using them.) That said, having a beer judge comment on the beer is very useful in assessing the merit of the recipe and process. Also in combating/confirming the assertion that one (or someone :-D) cannot make really good brews using Mr. Beer ingredients and method. If one can get the review outside of a competition fine, but maybe it is not that easy unless you have a beer judge buddy. Just because someone else has made the HME, does not always mean you will get a good beer out of it. (As mentioned in this forum - lol). Even Mr Beer recognizes the limitations of beer made from extract, and sells augmenting grains and other ingredients. So to score well in a competition is an achievement to strive for.
  14. John Palmer says (quoting a familiar saying) "Lager": I do not think this word means what you think it means Check this out. https://www.homebrewing.org/Lagering--Chapter-1-Common-Misconceptions_ep_58-1.html * I have only one issue with this. He says traditionally lagering was done in deep caverns. Deep caverns adopt the subterranean temperature of the earth's crust and generally that is around 45-50 deg F. So much for lagering at 35 deg F. (Unless this was in their outhouses back in the days of no central heating. Or in winter with a fair amount of air exchange into the cave.) However, that does not mean that 35 deg lagering is bad just maybe not what was originally experienced. * So my take is that for an old fashioned beer, lager it at fermentation temps - otherwise do whatever you like :-D Of course it could be that the caves used to have 2 areas, closer to the surface for most activity i.e. brewing, and lower down/farther in for cellaring. That would make the cellaring/lagering happen at a lower temp probably, but still not 35. * Anyway that is my interpretation. * Another good read https://www.pastemagazine.com/articles/2016/06/lets-talk-beer-styles-pilsner.html Stranger than fiction.... https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/did-lager-beer-originate-south-america-180964962/ *
  15. Can't wait for the results! can we also get reviews at intervals into cellaring? like every 2 weeks or maybe if in PET every 3 weeks so you have enough bottles over time.