Nickfixit

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Nickfixit last won the day on September 2

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  1. So - was this the regular (booster), deluxe (LME)?
  2. I dunno, I think it depends what you are looking for. You can get some great citrus flavor from hops, but I got good results using fruit peel, in various combinations and also with hops. Here is what I did. First in Belgian style Wit beers, sweet or bitter orange peel - both work but different tastes. The Bitter orange adds bitterness too from the pith. (I did a lot of these) Second in mandarin orange flavored Wit beet. Mandarin orange zest, juice and Mandarina Bavaria hop. Third in amber beers, sweet orange zest and Amarillo hops. Enough for a hint of orange. Daughter loved it. Fourth Lime zest in Aztek - a good combo. Fifth, with the mandarin recipe, added lime zest too, that was nice and citrusy. Sixth, Wit with sweet orange zest, and canned mango Seventh, REALLY Fruity Wit, with the sweet orange zest but adding a lot of flavor from Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy hops too. This went fast. Eighth Cooper's Dark Ale with sweet orange zest and Amarillo. Tasted great on bottling, waiting for maturity. Oh and a Lemon Wit using lemon zest and cardamom. But........ I never tried Grapefruit peel..............................I used Citra for the grapefruitiness.
  3. Great! - nothing extra in with it? C'mon now.....
  4. Probably good if you have a severe cold too...
  5. My LBK#1 that I repitched into is still bubbling away and smelling good, I guess it will take a couple of weeks to finish :-/
  6. I have never done that but probably should. On the other hand, I have never drawn any wort/beer through the spigot before bottling anyway so nothing for any strange organisms to grow on.
  7. You will see some of the Cooper's yeast packs have both Lager and Ale yeast in them. I guess that will guarantee fermentation over a wider temperature range, ensuring greater customer success when lager temperatures (50's F) cannot be achieved and giving the option of the preferred lager fermentation treatment. However at only 7g for 6 gal, it seems they are trending towards the under pitching amount, but it seems to work for them.
  8. Congrats!
  9. Citra. But if you want less pine in comparison, swap the last 2 Centennial hop bags added for Citra.
  10. That is a good answer, however, some folks like to tweak the yeast contribution by using higher or lower temps. But that is on them. Maybe first use the Mr Beer/Cooper's recommendation than after that, Yeast manufacturer, then after that any custom special adjustment. However, the designer of the recipe may specify a yeast and a temperature profile just to get a special taste FOR COOPER'S YEASTS LOOK HERE: https://club.coopers.com.au/coopers-forum/topic/7290/ The following explains the ink-jetted code on the yeast sachets, supplied with each beer kit: Sachets carry a Julian date code and may also carry letters to denote the type of yeast. For example, if they were packaged on the 25th of September 2007 = 268th day of 2007: Original Series:- Ac (26807) International Series:- Australian Pale Ale - Ac+L (26807 Int) Mexican Cerveza - Ac+L (26807 Int) European Lager - L (26807 P) Canadian Blonde - Ac (26807) English Bitter - Ac (26807) Thomas Coopers Selection:- Wheat - A (26807 W) IPA - Ac (26807 IPA) Irish Stout - A (26807 IS) Pilsener - L (26807 P) Australian Bitter - Ac+L (26807 PS) Heritage Lager - Ac+L (26807 PS) Sparkling Ale - Ac+L (26807 PS) Traditional Draught - Ac+L (26807 PS) Note: Ac = Coopers ale yeast (our own strain, not the same as the yeast in our commercial ales, developed in-house and propagated under contract). A = ale yeast and L = lager yeast (these strains are commercially available dry yeast and their details are held in confidence).
  11. I am confused too. All 3 were side by side on the floor. The #1 started much more vigorously than the other 2 and stopped earlier. The top inside of LBK1 is covered with debris left by the foaming - more than #2 or #3. They could have started at slightly different temperatures although they were all left a while to cool This #1 had a weaker wort and had different additions (1/2 pack booster + 8 oz wheat DME) than the other 2. (+ 8 oz Special Dark LME + 8 oz spark amber + 8 oz light DME) But I am not sure why that would affect it. The wort will contain dissolved CO2 as it enters in solution before making bubbles. The amount dissolved varies with temperature so you will see some carbonation priming calculations include wort temperature. The wort can stay without yeast until some other organism gets in there and infects it. Good sanitation improves things but there are organisms in the air at all times. I have waited sometimes 12 hours before pitching yeast (to allow cooling), but all recommendations seem to be to pitch as soon as possible.
  12. Keep going, glad you are enjoying the hobby!
  13. It is also going to be real sweet. Not a problem for some, but not to my taste. Of course if you want it fizzy, you can always get a soda maker to enhance it with.
  14. That may be pretty foamy. Did you use 2 tsp priming sugar before, when not using dots? I have found 3 dots in a 750 will often give me a gusher - even after 3 weeks fermenting. Also now the recalcitrant LBK#1 is bubbling some and making nice fermenting smells - now I put new yeast in and it is warmer due to heating and cooler weather. So I guess I will check it in a week.
  15. After it is matured, make sure you chill it for at least 3 days before drinking, that will help you get smaller bubble maybe and a more Guinness like carbonation taste.