BDawg62

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BDawg62 last won the day on December 26 2017

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About BDawg62

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 07/10/1962

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    Delaware, OH (Go Bucks) (Go Browns)

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  1. I use Oxyclean Free to clean everything. Just make sure to rinse well after cleaning. For bottles, I put about 1/3 of a scoop of Oxyclean Free in a 5 gallon bucket and then fill with hot water. Make sure it is mixed well then add your glass bottles. I let them soak for about 5 minutes and then I clean them with a wooden dowel that I have stapled a strip of green scouring pad to the end. This works better than a brush in my opinion for glass bottles. I then place them in another 5 gallon bucket of clean water for about 5 minutes and then rinse them in my sink where I have an jet bottle washer attached to the faucet. They then dry on my bottle tree. Note: These are bottles that I have already done a thorough rinse after emptying.
  2. Then get used to drinking apple cider beers. The biggest change in my beer was moving to temperature control. Temperature control is needed while fermenting (for at least the first week) and while carbonating (for 2 to 3 weeks). 58 to 60 degree ambient air temp when fermenting and 75 to 78 ambient air temp when carbonating is what I have found to be my sweet spot.
  3. No issue, just a little less ABV. Not enough to even notice.
  4. Before @RickBeer steps in here and issues a citation . Slowing down because of quantity of beer is not an option. I have over 500 bottles in my inventory that are either full or waiting to be filled. If you find you have too much beer to drink yourself, let your friends know you brew and that will never be a problem again.
  5. Fire Rooster, I always chill my beers to refrigerator temperature and then depending on the style, either drink them as soon as I pour or let them warm after poured before drinking. Darker beers are better warmer and lighter colored beers tend to be better colder. Just my 2 cents. Dawg
  6. 2 to 4 oz of flaked wheat is not going to make much of a difference. If you want a wheat like beer you need to make at least 40% of the fermentables be wheat. I would use a wheat LME or DME instead of flaked wheat in an extract beer. I don't understand both Pilsen and 2-row unless that is what you have on hand. I would choose one or the other but neither is really necessary if you add more wheat. The carapils will help with head retention but so will the wheat. Fresh fruit is fine once it is sanitized and pureed but with the concerns about infection even after you take precautions, I would go with the prepared purees that @RickBeer referred to. These are made for beer and wine making and thus are not processed as you would think.
  7. Buy the oranges. After all, you can still eat them after you remove the zest.
  8. I would say it couldn't hurt.
  9. I brew all grain and have a Jalapeno Cream Ale that I make. But you could try this with an American Ale HME. Cut 2 Jalapeno peppers in half long ways and then, depending on how much heat you want, take out the seeds and white pith inside. If you want more heat leave more of the pith (that is where the heat comes from). Roast them in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes. Then soak them in a couple ounces of Vodka overnight. Steep 4 oz of 2 row malt and 2 oz of smoked malt in about 2 quarts of water for 30 minutes at 150 degrees. Then boil the resulting wort for 20 minutes and add a muslin bag containing the jalapenos for the last 10 minutes. Also add the Vodka at the same time. Remove the bag and proceed with adding the HME and brew as you normally would. You will need to play with it to get the heat where you want it. Also remember, not all Jalapenos have the same level of heat.
  10. Jdub, There are many on this forum who swear by cold crashing and some like myself who have never done it. If you have the space and can cold crash. Dawg
  11. My point is that there are things he can do. @SilverBrewerWI pointed out that he should spray some sanitizer into the spigot or dunk the spigot into a shot glass full of sanitizer. That is the perfect solution and actually should be done before bottling even if he sanitized it when he brewed. The two biggest causes of new brewers having bad beer is brewing too warm and not being clean enough. Those of us who have experience in our back pocket stress these two points like it is the "end of the world" because bad beer is the reason most brewers drop out of this hobby. The experienced brewers here are trying to prevent that and I am sorry if my stressing sanitization is a problem. New brewers should "freak out" about each and every step of the process so that they get it right.
  12. Wow, you have been on this forum for all of 3 weeks and this is the wisdom that you put forth to a new brewer. Let me clue you in. There are millions upon millions of wild yeast and bacteria in your kitchen, living room, bedroom, basement and back yard at this very moment. No matter how clean you think your house is, this is a fact. Our job as brewers is to make it as difficult as possible for these critters to start a colony in our beer. So this attitude that there is a lot lower risk of infection than most make it to be is definitely not correct. Not sanitizing your spigot may be fine if you drink all of your beer withing 6 weeks of bottling. If you happen to hold on to a couple of bottles for 6 months you may not be so lucky. Even with the best sanitization practices, I have had beers go bad after several months in the bottle. Sanitization is nothing to take lightly. Ask any professional brewer what is the number one most important thing in the process and 99 out of 100 will say "cleanliness and sanitization". If you start to act now like it isn't a big deal then as you progress it will even get to be less important to you and then you will get an infected beer and say "what happened". My advice with regard to sanitization is this. If you are not sure it should be sanitized then sanitize it.
  13. I carbonate every batch at 76 for 3 weeks then I store at my basement temps which are in the low 60s. I have goofed and had a batch get above 90 for a couple of days during carbonation (actually won a medal for that beer). Carbonation temps don't have the same effect on your beer that high fermentation temps do.
  14. Secondary fermenters are rarely necessary. Unless you are transferring onto fruit or bulk aging for an extended period of time there is no need to transfer to a secondary. This is a process that has hung on with some brewers who have been brewing for a lot of years. It used to be that it was necessary to get the beer off of the yeast but isn't any longer.