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BDawg62 last won the day on December 27 2016

BDawg62 had the most liked content!

About BDawg62

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 07/10/1962

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    Delaware, OH (Go Bucks) (Go Browns)

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  1. I typically brew 2.5 gallon all grain batches, the size just works for me. I use both dry and liquid yeast depending on the style that I am brewing. While liquid yeast is more expensive to purchase, I make starters for my batches and save 1/3 of it for future batches that again I will make a starter and save 1/3 of it. So that initial spend of $8 to $9 for the yeast can in some cases give me 5 batches of beer. I actually prefer liquid yeast most of the time. There just aren't enough varieties of dry yeast to match up to the different styles that I brew. Also note that depending on the age of the liquid yeast, you may have to make a starter just to have enough yeast for even a 2 gallon batch.
  2. I would leave it in the 70 degree room for about 4 weeks and then if possible find a cooler spot. Your beer will benefit from being stored at a cooler temperature for final conditioning. If you have a basement with temps in the low 60s that would be better.
  3. @MRB Tim, any update on this one?
  4. @RickBeer does 5 gallon batches on 2 LBKs all the time.
  5. There are many different thoughts on storing grains. Some swear by storing in the fridge while others say to never store in fridge. I store my grains in vacuum sealed bags in a sealed bucket in my basement. I have used crushed smoked malt that was over a year old without any issues. Uncrushed grains should last for a long time (several years) if kept in a cool dry place.
  6. You misunderstood, I wasn't trying to squash you enthusiasm or by any means trying to sound like a beer snob. I was sounding like an experienced brewer. You are a new brewer with very little knowledge of how the process of brewing works (ie.. color coding). It really pisses me off when someone who has no knowledge of how this process works doesn't want to listen to those of us who do know how it works. I have done experiments where I have used the same base malts and yeast and only changed the hop. Everyone was a drinkable beer and each had it's merits. I have also done experiments where I have used the same base malts and hop profile and only changed the yeast. Again, each beer was drinkable and also each beer had it's merits. Thus the reason why I say there is no color chart possibility. How many of these experiments have you conducted? So before you even think of calling me a beer snob, think of who you may be talking to and be accepting of the experience that I am trying to pass on to you.
  7. Cammanron, Beer can not be color coded, there are far too many ways to combine malt, hops and yeast to make beer. A basic recipe of malt can be duplicated while changing the hop profile to make several different beers. Add a yeast change and that list will grow. Brewing is something that takes a while to perfect and can only be done by trial and error. What you need to do is spend time on this forum and other forums out there reading and researching. Youtube is a great source of information on brewing as well. There are also many great books on the subject. Don't look for the easy way out with a color coded system, do the research and do some educated experiments yourself. Yes, AC he poked the Dawg in the tiger's absence. Dawg
  8. I would use Smooth with the Octoberfest. The Smooth LME/DME will give a maltier and slightly sweeter taste due to the Cara/Crystal grains used to darken it, thus a little more body. This would result in a beer that is more to style for an Octoberfest. LME does result in a darker beer than DME. When I brewed extract beers, I found that the best color match for style was achieved by using Extra Light DME and grains to achieve color. When using straight LME, I could never get my Blonde ale to the light color that I really wanted.
  9. First of all, you need to surrender your "man card" since dumping beer is a direct violation of any card carrying member. OK, now to get serious. You mention a lot of sediment on the bottom of the keg, THAT IS TRUB, and it is a product of a good fermentation. It is a combination of the dead yeast and proteins and stuff from the beer itself. You don't let much if any of this get into your bottles but again, it is a good thing to have sediment on the bottom of your keg.
  10. Bottle it, I have had a beer on yeast in the secondary for 4 months waiting on it to finish and it turned out fine.
  11. DME is easy to use if done the correct way. First have a whisk in one hand and the bag of DME in the other. Begin stirring with the whisk and then very slowly add the DME. It will take some time but if you break up any clumps as soon as they form it can be done without much issue. Don't worry about the clumps that form on the opening of the bag, you can scrape them off into your wort when the bag is empty. Also, pour it from at least 6 to 8 inches away from the liquid. This will make it fan out a little and make it easier to disolve as soon as it hits liquid. Save the old packets of yeast. They are good for at least 2 years. Depending on how your brewing progresses, you may do as stated above and progress to 1 hour boils using LME, DME or even all grain processes. You never know when you will brew one of these batches and realize that you don't have yeast (it happens). This yeast will be a life saver. It can also be used as nutrient if you want by adding it to the last 5 minutes of a boil.
  12. I have heard the same thing. They brew the beer to be stronger than what is bottled and then use water to make it the correct alcohol. They also blend beers from different fermenters to get the taste correct. That is why no matter where in the US you get a Bud Light the taste is identical.
  13. This looks like a good opportunity for an experiment. You have 2 different fermentations going on, degas one of them and not the other. Then you can see what results you get.
  14. A little helpful advice, I have done this on all but my first batch of mead and maple wine and got a much improved product. Mead (wine) yeast react much differently to CO2 than ale yeast does. To help with the smoothness of the mead, gently agitate the jug every 12 hours or so to help keep the yeast in suspension and to get rid of the CO2 that is absorbed into the mead. Be careful doing this so that it does not foam over the top of the jug and make a mess. Getting rid of the CO2 helps to keep Phoenal (sp) alcohols from forming and keeps the hot alcohol feel out of your mead. You can even use a sanitized paint stirrer or some other device to accomplish this task as well. You don't have to worry about introducing oxygen like you do with beer. Staggered nutrient additions are also a great benefit.
  15. I have never considered drinking my beer a Chore.