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BDawg62 last won the day on December 27 2016

BDawg62 had the most liked content!

About BDawg62

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 07/10/1962

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    Delaware, OH (Go Bucks) (Go Browns)

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  1. I would use Smooth with the Octoberfest. The Smooth LME/DME will give a maltier and slightly sweeter taste due to the Cara/Crystal grains used to darken it, thus a little more body. This would result in a beer that is more to style for an Octoberfest. LME does result in a darker beer than DME. When I brewed extract beers, I found that the best color match for style was achieved by using Extra Light DME and grains to achieve color. When using straight LME, I could never get my Blonde ale to the light color that I really wanted.
  2. First of all, you need to surrender your "man card" since dumping beer is a direct violation of any card carrying member. OK, now to get serious. You mention a lot of sediment on the bottom of the keg, THAT IS TRUB, and it is a product of a good fermentation. It is a combination of the dead yeast and proteins and stuff from the beer itself. You don't let much if any of this get into your bottles but again, it is a good thing to have sediment on the bottom of your keg.
  3. Bottle it, I have had a beer on yeast in the secondary for 4 months waiting on it to finish and it turned out fine.
  4. DME is easy to use if done the correct way. First have a whisk in one hand and the bag of DME in the other. Begin stirring with the whisk and then very slowly add the DME. It will take some time but if you break up any clumps as soon as they form it can be done without much issue. Don't worry about the clumps that form on the opening of the bag, you can scrape them off into your wort when the bag is empty. Also, pour it from at least 6 to 8 inches away from the liquid. This will make it fan out a little and make it easier to disolve as soon as it hits liquid. Save the old packets of yeast. They are good for at least 2 years. Depending on how your brewing progresses, you may do as stated above and progress to 1 hour boils using LME, DME or even all grain processes. You never know when you will brew one of these batches and realize that you don't have yeast (it happens). This yeast will be a life saver. It can also be used as nutrient if you want by adding it to the last 5 minutes of a boil.
  5. I have heard the same thing. They brew the beer to be stronger than what is bottled and then use water to make it the correct alcohol. They also blend beers from different fermenters to get the taste correct. That is why no matter where in the US you get a Bud Light the taste is identical.
  6. This looks like a good opportunity for an experiment. You have 2 different fermentations going on, degas one of them and not the other. Then you can see what results you get.
  7. A little helpful advice, I have done this on all but my first batch of mead and maple wine and got a much improved product. Mead (wine) yeast react much differently to CO2 than ale yeast does. To help with the smoothness of the mead, gently agitate the jug every 12 hours or so to help keep the yeast in suspension and to get rid of the CO2 that is absorbed into the mead. Be careful doing this so that it does not foam over the top of the jug and make a mess. Getting rid of the CO2 helps to keep Phoenal (sp) alcohols from forming and keeps the hot alcohol feel out of your mead. You can even use a sanitized paint stirrer or some other device to accomplish this task as well. You don't have to worry about introducing oxygen like you do with beer. Staggered nutrient additions are also a great benefit.
  8. I have never considered drinking my beer a Chore.
  9. Jim, Essentially that is what you do with a beer that does not use HME. Just more water and a longer boil. One thing to consider is that during the boil evaporation will occur. If you are doing a 30 minute boil you may want to start with 5 cups of water. A 15 minute boil will result in less water volume but you will make that up with the LME addition. As Mr. Why said, depending on how long you boil you will add flavor and aroma. If you boil for longer than 30 minutes, you will add more bittering as well. Dawg
  10. AC, Just use dry yeast and rehydrate it first. If your beer has been in primary and secondary for 6 months that yeast is going to be tired and fresh yeast will ensure carbonation. Dawg
  11. Why don't you just hold off until Sunday or Monday evening to brew the beer.
  12. I would do it. Since it is a Vanilla Porter you are looking for a little sweetness anyway.
  13. Depending on the OG of the beer, the fermentation can be more vigorous. That is why with temperature control, you measure the temperature of the beer not ambient temperature. If you are cooling based on wort temp, then it will not get too hot.
  14. Getting too hot is not the yeasts fault. If the fermentation got too hot it would have done the same with any yeast.
  15. Just my $.02 worth. DME is made with a variety of grains and you don't know the make up of the recipe used to create the original wort. The safest bet with Extracts is to use Extra Light DME as it by color alone doesn't allow for much in the way of anything but base malt. Pilsen DME is made the same way. Amber and Dark may not give the results you want because you are also going to add some dark grains to get the appropriate color and roast.