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BDawg62 last won the day on December 27 2016

BDawg62 had the most liked content!

About BDawg62

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 07/10/1962

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    Delaware, OH (Go Bucks) (Go Browns)

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  1. Rick is correct, it is indeed 100 gallons per adult. But then how are they going to know what you brewed in January when it is November. This law is nearly unable to be enforced. Unless you begin selling your homebrew nobody is going to mess with you on the quantity that you brew. Transportation is another animal all together. There are states where you can't transport homebrew outside of your house. You can't send it to anyone via US mail anywhere in the US. And there are other states where brewclubs break the law by consuming homebrews in the establishment that they meet in, especially if that establishment serves alcohol. You definitely need to read your states laws. There are many of them that change and are in the process of changing.
  2. This is what I use. Keeps the temps exactly where I want them.
    1. BDawg62


      Just down the road from my work.  Clear across town from home though.  It is still like a 3 hour wait on the weekends to get a table.  I am going to wait for it to settle down before I go.  A lot of other breweries to explore here.

  3. @Rickbeer, there are several of these places in Ohio. I just brewed at one with several friends a few weeks ago. This one is also a brewery with a local following and distribution. They do help with the process in so far as giving advice and showing how it is done. They also break down the amount of time to the potential customer and because they do all of the cleaning, the time needed isn't that large. They don't really count on their BYO business to keep them going, it is mostly a side offering. Look up North High Brewing in Columbus for the information on it.
  4. Alias, Nobody really answered your question. Too many people telling you not to spend the money to do it. From what I gather in your first post is that you have the kegerator, kegs and CO2 cartriges already. So the cost to you to do this is ZERO. It will take 2 of the mini kegs to do a batch. My advice would be to keg about 2 liters and bottle the rest of the batch. If it works, then you know that you can do it with other batches. If it doesn't you lost 2 liters of beer. The rest of the batch will be in bottles and will be drinkable after carbonation and conditioning. Dawg
  5. Hoag, Most likely on the previous batches you were above 70 when you pitched the yeast and thus you stressed it giving you the off tastes. Always a good idea to check the temperature of the wort prior to pitching. Yeast are hardy critters but they do have issues with high temperatures. Also, make sure the yeast packet is sitting out and allowed to warm to room temperature prior to pitching, thermal shock can hurt the yeast as well. My recommendation would be to not use ice to cool the wort. Even if it is from your freezer and water source, it has a chance of having wild yeast in it. Not to mention the chlorine from your water. This also could be a source of the cider taste, make sure if you use tap water that you use campden tablets to remove the chlorine prior to brewing with it. Also, make sure to keep your fermentation temperatures in the 65 degree range. Not ambient air temperature but the temperature of the wort. You only need to worry about this for the first 3 to 4 days, after that you can let it rise the about 68 to 70 to finish fermentation without any bad effects. Welcome to the obsession, Dawg
  6. Big Sarge, You have been here for nearly 2 years, you don't need to explain your actions to anybody.
  7. I would do .25oz of each at 5 min and then .25oz of each dry hopped for the last 7 days of fermentation.
  8. Never cold crash and never have a problem with resulting in crystal clear beer.
  9. Zorak, I do a bag in a water cooler for my mash tun and I grind my own grain getting quite a bit of dust. There is a good amount that leaves my mash tun and I filter it through a 300 micron filter in a big funnel. Seems to work for me even though there is still some that gets through. Dawg
  10. Bikermedic, Mad Scientist is a term that is mostly used by @RickBeer and that is because the craziest thing he ever done in his life was wearing a leasure suit in the 70s and currently being a Wolverines fan. The rest of us are just making sure you don't make the mistakes we did when we started out. Most of my early beers were very cidery and really not too drinkable. Then I discovered temperature control and a lot changed. But, I did try the same type of things that you did, I once brewed 3 different 1 gallon beers with just Extra Pale extract and 1 single hop to learn about hops. I did this way too early in my brewing life and because of this, the OG's of all three weren't even close to each other but I did make beer. We only learn from our mistakes as you said and I wholeheartedly agree with that. I try things on a regular basis (look up Cool Ranch Doritos Cream Ale) and I don't think they are mad scientist. But I now do a lot of research before I try them. Most of us on this forum just want to make sure you don't get frustrated and leave the hobby. A lot of brewers find that they don't have the patience and go all in too soon and then end up selling their equipment on Craigslist. So my advice is don't take the response of one or several of us to heart as it is not intended to be hurtful but more as guidance. In a year or so you are going to be the person in my place writing a similar response to a new brewer just like yourself. RDWHAHB
  11. Mead is a very simple beverage to brew and it doesn't use any malt. I have also made a Maple wine that was very tasty. My meads average 13% abv
  12. I always find that the proper amount of time to condition a beer is how long it takes to drink the entire batch. My last bottle is always the best, or at least it seems that way. Maybe, it is just the realization that a good beer is now gone forever and you have to try to recreate it. But generally I begin drinking at the 3 week mark after bottling unless it is a big beer (8% or more) then I try to wait a couple of months. I will say that a beer of normal alcohol content is usually pretty much unchanged after about the 6 week mark.
  13. Creamz, Sorry I may be a little late to the game. To answer your question in a word "Yes", you can do a smaller mash and then sparge to get your preboil volume. Use a collander or some other type of strainer to hold your grains while you pour sparge water over them or if you have a second pot, just put the proper amount of sparge water in it and dunk the grain bag to achieve a suido sparge in that manner.
  14. Wolf, I experimented with secondary fermentation a while back and found no real benefit to doing it (as most others have already said). It really didn't change the taste or clarity of my beers in the least. However, if you are adding fruit or "bulk" conditioning for an extended period of time, then it would make sense. My advice would be for you to experiment if you wish and try for yourself. I would recommend a container that would have little airspace left after transferring to eliminate the chance of oxidation. In a primary fermenter, you have quite a bit of CO2 that forms a layer on top of your beer and helps keep the oxygen away. You still have this to a point in the secondary but not to the level of a primary.