BDawg62

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BDawg62 last won the day on December 27 2016

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About BDawg62

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 07/10/1962

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    Delaware, OH (Go Bucks) (Go Browns)

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  1. Zorak, I have heard of this being done but have never done it myself. Mostly as a way to do a Kettle sour. Links to some threads on other forums. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=336561 http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=292392 Lots of opinions. Dawg
  2. I didn't realize you were going to do golden. That is a wheat LME that won't add much to the Cal except to make the beer cloudy, maybe a little bit of mouthfeel.
  3. Ok, here is my $0.02 worth. The added LME will in fact effect the color and flavor of the beer. Cal is a light beer similar in color to a Bud Light. 1. When you add a Pale LME you will see little to no change in this color. The flavor should have a more malty backbone. 2. When you add a Smooth LME you will see a beer that is more of an amber color. Again the flavor will be more malty. 3. When you add a Robust LME you will see a beer that is more brown in color. This beer should have a slight roasted flavor. I would brew them all at the same time. The HME's with the earlier date should be the ones that you add LME. And then brew the newer HME as is. Your decision on yeast, it is your experiment. Safale US-05 is a very neutral yeast and if the temperature is kept fairly low (64) you will not get any flavor from it.
  4. My hops are added in a Hop Spider, so the hops get strained out in the boil. https://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php#4x10hopspider
  5. I had the same issue when I bottled in the PET bottles. They would be fine until I chilled them. Once I switched to glass the issue went away. I think your experiment will reflect this.
  6. Jim, Glad to hear your first batch is going well. With regard to the Mr. Beer sanitizer it doesn't have a long shelf life. Same day is about as good as I would trust it for sanitizing. I use StarSan which when mixed using distilled water can be used over and over again until it becomes cloudy or the PH rises to above 3. An 8 oz bottle of concentrate will last over a year unless you really brew a lot.
  7. All of the above advice is great. Read the forums, read the signature line from @RickBeer. Most importantly DON'T GIVE UP. 3 batches is the very beginning of any brewing hobbiest career. Temperature, Temperature, Temperature. I can't say it enough. The biggest single improvement to my beers was temperature control. I never pitch my yeast above 65 degrees, I also rarely start fermentation above that number either. I actually cool my wort to as low as 60 and begin fermentation there. Then I control it to not rise above 63 for the first 3 days. Believe me this works for most ale yeast. I know if you look at the optimal range for most yeast you will think this is too cold. Remember the word here is optimal. Let the temperature rise to about 68 once the Krausen has begun to fall back into the beer. This will help the yeast finish and clean up off flavors. Search the internet or this forum for ways to control fermentation. It can be done with items you most likely have at home already.
  8. Just put it into Beersmith, assumed 5 gallon batch. I changed the Galaxy and 60 minute Cascade around. The Alpha Acid level of the Galaxy would make for a better bittering hop. 1oz Galaxy @ 60min 1oz Cascade @ 10min 1oz Cascade @ flameout OG 1.059 IBU 40.6 SRM 6.4 All good numbers for a pale ale
  9. Kaijubrew, Hey another brewer from Central Ohio, Go Bucks. Several breweries in Delaware as well, Staas and Restoration Brewworks. Also, several brew clubs, you should consider joining one of them. I am VP of DOH (Delaware Ohio Homebrewers). You are welcome to look us up and come to a meeting or two to decide if you want to join. Dawg
  10. I have the same issue so here is my solution. Get a cooler or plastic tub and put a strand of Xmas lights in it, 50 is usually more than enough. Get a cheap timer and use a thermometer to figure out the on/off cycle to get the temperature up to the mid 70s. Another option is to use a cheap temperature controller (about $30 on Amazon) to regulate the on/off cycle to maintain the temperature.
  11. Sounds like you are hooked. Try to carbonate the next one at around 72 degrees for two to three weeks and then condition at the lower temperature.
  12. You need to connect tubing to the spigot of the LBK and make sure it is long enough to go all the way to the bottom of whatever vessel you are transferring into. It could be a slimline container, bottling bucket or even another LBK, it just must have a spigot on it as well. Get your priming solution ready (about 8oz to 12oz of sugar water) and pour about 1/5th of it into that vessel. Then begin transferring the wort in and make sure there is no aeration occurring, absolutely no splashing and absolutely no foaming. As the LBK that you are transferring from empties, on occasion add about another 1/5th of the priming solution and continue this until the LBK is down to where it is just about to transfer trub. Then stop the transfer and very gently stir the container of collected wort to make sure the priming solution is completely mixed into the wort. I always let this settle for 15 to 30 minutes while I sanitize my bottles and get set up to begin bottling. When you bottle make sure to leave the last of the beer as a reward for your effort. I always put this in a cup and then stick it in the fridge for a bit to settle most of the trub before drinking. But you could drink it as is, you digestion might thank you. I also always mark the last couple of bottles to be consumed first as they will contain the most trub.
  13. Extract beers are always darker than any commercial example of a style. That is because of the process used to make extract and the fact that it darkens as it ages. If you are making beers from grain and not extract you get the lighter beers you are looking for. No real issue with the darker color from a flavor standpoint, just appearance.
  14. That depends on where you are fermenting. I ferment in my basement and in the winter during fermentation my fermentation chamber never gets above 64 even without ice. The temperature of my basement at floor level is 60 to 61 degrees (sometimes cooler). I use heat in my chamber to ramp the temperature up to somewhere between 66 and 68 as the krausen begins to fall (usually day 4 or 5) and then let it go to ambient temperature after about 10 days. Things change in the summer because ambient is around 68. Also, Belgians need much more heat. I keep them below 68 at first and then I begin to heat them after day 4 and let them get to 75 to 78 by day 8 or 9.
  15. Sabers, thanks for posting. I will have to brew this at some point in honor of Jim as well.