BDawg62

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BDawg62 last won the day on December 27 2016

BDawg62 had the most liked content!

About BDawg62

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 07/10/1962

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    Delaware, OH (Go Bucks) (Go Browns)

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  1. Looks right. Your final gravity will vary a point or 2 depending on your recipe. Anything from 1.008 to 1.012 is right about average for most Mr. Beer recipes.
  2. Completely normal, every fermentation looks different.
  3. How far is the gravity off and how does it taste? English yeast can be susceptible to a drop in temperature causing it to flocculate early. If it is too far off the S-04 is very hard if not impossible to get to restart. You may want to pitch some S-05 just to finish it. Since S-05 is a neutral yeast it shouldn't affect the flavors that the S-04 would have imparted.
  4. Because your local brew store does not sell Mr. Beer products and thus you aren't going to buy anything from him. The best is when you brew something good and take it to them to try and after they like it and ask what went into your recipe, you tell them Mr. Beer.
  5. What temperature do you currently have it at? Try to get it to 72 if not already there and then gently give it a stir. That may help and the warmer temperature at this point won't hurt anything.
  6. You will get little to no flavor from the juice. The best way to add citrus flavor is from the zest. You can either dry hop with zest or put it in the last 5 minutes of the boil (my prefered method).
  7. Hillbilly for "purchased" Check your Redneck dictionary
  8. Just a note as to ambient air temperatures. I keep my cooling chamber at about 60 degrees to maintain a 63 to 64 degree wort temperature during peak fermentation. Sometimes with a very vigorous fermentation, I have to go below 60 for ambient temps. Ice packs will work to maintain these temperatures but it will take some time to get it right for your setup. You are on the right track, but don't get discouraged on this first batch if it gets too warm on occasion. Also, I let the temperature slowly rise after 4 days to get to about 68 or 70 by day 7 so that fermentation can complete. Another tip is to precool your cooler, put a couple of icepacks in several hours ahead of time and then use fresh packs when you add your LBK.
  9. US-05 is a very neutral yeast. I had the cider taste in all of my batches until I quit using the MR. Beer yeast. Pitch the entire pack into a 2 gallon batch. It is near impossible to overpitch on a homebrew scale. US-05 is the same yeast as Wyeast 1056 and White Labs 001 (both liquid yeast). It will ferment very clean at lower temperatures. You say your temps are in line with where we say to be, what are those temps? Are they wort temps or ambient air temps? Also, are they measured using a probe that is insulated and taped to the side of your LBK or just what the Mr. Beer stick on thermometer says?
  10. It is near impossible to overpitch yeast on a homebrew scale. I almost always grow my starters to double the recommended cell count and pitch the whole thing. I have even pitched triple the recommended cell count without issue.
  11. You made a beer without a doubt. The chiles will put off enough oil to keep the krausen from forming on top of the fermentation. If you bottle it and give it some time (6 months or so) the heat will go away to a point. Always remember that when you add spices to a beer think of how much you want to add and then cut that amount by at least half. Then if after you brew the batch there isn't enough for your liking adjust up on the next batch.
  12. I carb in my basement in a "carbonation chamber". Nothing fancy really. Just a Coleman cooler, a 50 light strand of Xmas lights and a temp controller. Put your beers to be carbonated in the cooler, spread the Xmas lights around in the cooler and then set your temp controller at 75. Beers are perfectly carbonated in 2 weeks. Remove beers from the cooler and store at basement temps of 62 to 68 (depending on season). Alternative to temp controller is a timer set to be on for 10 minutes per hour. Monitor the temperature and adjust accordingly. More time on in the winter and less time in the summer. Just try to keep the beers at a temperature below 80 degrees during this time.
  13. I typically brew 2.5 gallon all grain batches, the size just works for me. I use both dry and liquid yeast depending on the style that I am brewing. While liquid yeast is more expensive to purchase, I make starters for my batches and save 1/3 of it for future batches that again I will make a starter and save 1/3 of it. So that initial spend of $8 to $9 for the yeast can in some cases give me 5 batches of beer. I actually prefer liquid yeast most of the time. There just aren't enough varieties of dry yeast to match up to the different styles that I brew. Also note that depending on the age of the liquid yeast, you may have to make a starter just to have enough yeast for even a 2 gallon batch.
  14. I would leave it in the 70 degree room for about 4 weeks and then if possible find a cooler spot. Your beer will benefit from being stored at a cooler temperature for final conditioning. If you have a basement with temps in the low 60s that would be better.
  15. @MRB Tim, any update on this one?