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BDawg62 last won the day on December 26 2017

BDawg62 had the most liked content!

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About BDawg62

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 07/10/1962

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    Delaware, OH (Go Bucks) (Go Browns)

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  1. BDawg62

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    Kedogn, You are a professional brewer with many more batches under your belt than most on this forum. You also aren't brewing in your kitchen or other area that isn't exclusively used to brew beer. The risk for you is lower than what it is for a typical homebrewer. The statement regarding "pitch it all it is not worth the risk" is mainly for the typical homebrew scale with a packet of $4 to $8 yeast depending on dry or liquid. Saving a couple of bucks doesn't make sense when you are potentially risking an entire batch. Dawg
  2. BDawg62

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    Liquid yeast unlike dry yeast does not have the same amount of viable yeast cells when you buy it as it did when packaged. Dry yeast (US-05) for example is understood to have roughly 200 billion active yeast cells per 11g packet. Unless past expiration or handled incorrectly it should still be fairly close to that number when you buy it. Liquid yeast on the other hand is understood to have 100 billion active yeast cells at packaging. Because it degrades at a certain percentage daily until the expiration (4 to 6 months), there are less than that number when you buy it. So even though most of my batches are 2.5 to 3 gallons in size and 1.050 or so in gravity, I usually need to make a starter with liquid yeast because there are not enough viable yeast cells there for proper fermentation. I know the package says that there is enough there for 5 gallons but if you use a pitch rate calculator you will find that you are almost always short. In homebrewing it is nearly impossible to overpitch your yeast. So the risk of contamination by saving a packet for later or the risk of yeast not being viable after doing this is too great for me to risk it.
  3. BDawg62

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    If you have fermentation after a couple of days, you pitched enough yeast. Adding more will not help.
  4. BDawg62

    Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

    Pitch the whole pack. When the beer is finished you can decant the yeast cake into a sanitized mason jar or just put another beer right on the yeast cake in your LBK. If you brew an IPA you should make sure to reuse the yeast in an IPA or another hoppy beer.
  5. BDawg62

    Is this an infection?

    It is most likely a very thick raft of yeast that is just being stubborn and not falling. Every fermentation is different. I have one going now where there was a layer of krausen on top for the first 24 hours and now that has all been absorbed and all I see if very fine bubbles from fermentation that break as soon as they hit the surface. Beer almost looks like it is boiling. I have had it where I had to be careful not to distrurb a layer of yeast (krausen) like the one you have when transferring for bottling. Yeast are alive and just like people they are all different.😉
  6. BDawg62

    Is this an infection?

    Looks like Krausen to me.
  7. Not a bad thought at all. That just means you are a brewer and during any crisis you will take care of your human family first then you will without a doubt take care or your one celled family. Those yeast are our children too and they deserve to be high on our priority list in a crisis situation.😂
  8. BDawg62

    First Batch - Open Bottles Go Flat?

    Reading post on other forums doesn't usually help with brewing Mr. Beer. Those forums are usually people who brew extract or all grain with boil times and hops added to the boil. If you follow the instructions to the letter your pitching temperature was correct. Mr. Beer brewing is different and looked down upon (unfortunately) by most of the people on those forums. Even though some of them probably got their start with a Mr. Beer kit. The green apple taste is because your beer was likely fermented too warm rather than not enough yeast. Your beer goes flat quickly because as @RickBeer said you need at least 2 days in the fridge for the beer to absorb the carbonation. Spend your time on this forum and leave the other forums until you are more experienced. There are a lot of us that only occasionally still brew Mr. Beer kits and also a lot of us that still only brew Mr. Beer kits. In any case there is a lot of years experience here from people who respect the fact that you are brewing a Mr. Beer kit and won't give you grief about it.
  9. BDawg62

    Something other than booster

    The molasses in the brown sugar does not give an appealing result in my opinion. I would steep about 4 oz of 120L Cara/Crystal malt in a qt of water to achieve a better result.
  10. BDawg62

    Something other than booster

    What are you going for with the dark brown sugar? If you are using it for color and ABV, it would be better to use a cup of regular sugar and some darker grains to get the same effect. The molasses in the brown sugar can sometimes not produce the flavor you want. I would use the Safale 05, it is very clean especially at the cooler end of the scale. The Mr. Beer yeast would be enough but I found my beers improved when I stopped using that yeast. I did other things to improve my beers at the same time but I haven't used it since.
  11. BDawg62

    Hops for dry hopping

    The best way is to just Google search "Hop Chart" You will get many options to choose from.
  12. BDawg62

    Pumpkin beer attempt

    If there was a lot of puree floating around in the wort that would explain the reading being off. OK, so the odor coupled with the strong dry cider taste sounds like it might probably be some type of infection. If that is the case, there is not much chance of it getting better. It is possible that the pumpkin didn't give you the infection but possibly the pumpkin pie spice because you didn't boil it. Also the pumpkin may have just degraded in the fermenter and basically started to rot. You said you used organic pumpkin puree from a farmers market. It most likely was not cooked like canned pumpkin would be. That would make a difference as well. Use this link https://learn.kegerator.com/off-flavors-in-beer/ and see if you can identify the smell based on these descriptions. Then you can see what the cause is and try to correct it.
  13. BDawg62

    Pumpkin beer attempt

    JD, There is no way with the process you described that your actual OG was 1.118. That is also true if your FG was 1.010. That just will not happen in fermentation with beer yeast. I would need more of a description of the odd smell to help out there. I will say that a pitch at 74 is not really good. Dawg
  14. BDawg62

    yeast starter

    Cato, I use a 2000ml flask and that has never not been big enough. There are many yeast starter calculators out there. I have links to several below, there is also one in the current version of Beersmith. Take a look at them and then just pick one and use that one all the time. That way you have consistency. I used to use the Brewers Friend one but now use the one in Beersmith. https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/ http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php http://www.yeastcalculator.com/ I always make my starter on Thursday evening for a Saturday brewday. On Friday evening I take the stir rod out of the flask and put the flask in the refrigerator to cold crash. On Saturday when my boil starts I decant the wort on top of the yeast and then leave it on the counter to warm up to room temperature so that I can pitch when my wort is at pitching temperature. Dawg
  15. BDawg62

    yeast starter

    If you have a home canner you can make your own Fast Pitch wort. I make up seven 800ml jars each time I do it and it is a lot cheaper than Fast Pitch.