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BDawg62

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BDawg62 last won the day on December 31 2018

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About BDawg62

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 07/10/1962

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    Delaware, OH (Go Bucks) (Go Browns)

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  1. It must be nice to have graduates of a university up there that can read and find an address. 不不不
  2. BDawg62

    Thanks

    @Vfwrider316 glad to see this type of post. It means we are doing something worthwhile here. Dawg
  3. My current job status makes June almost impossible. I may or may not be working at that time so money will be tight.
  4. BDawg62

    DME to All grain conversion

    One of your first tasks with that new pot is to put 3 gallons of water in it and boil for 60 minutes on whatever burner or stove you plan to use for brewing. Then cool that water and see what volume you have left. Subtract that number from the initial 3 gallons and you will have your "boil off" rate. You will need this with AG to calculate your total mash water volumes. Also note that during the mash some water is lost to the grain absorption. Brewing software usually has a default volume to account for grain absorption but you need to know your "boil off" number.
  5. BDawg62

    DME to All grain conversion

    The short answer would be to mash the .2# of carapils and .2# of Medium English crystal with 5# of Brewers malt at 155 for 60 Minutes. Proceed with the rest of the recipe as it is printed after you have collected your wort from the mash.
  6. BDawg62

    DME to All grain conversion

    OK, there is and can be a lot of confusion between Pale Malt and 2 row malt(Brewers Malt). Let's go at it in this manner, Pale Malt and Brewers Malt are both made from 2 row malt as are most other malts made by Briess. Pale Malt has a color rating of 3.5 SRM while Brewers Malt is at 1.8 SRM. Both malts are base malts and both malts have enough diastatic power to convert themselves. Pale Malt will result in a beer with a slightly darker color than Brewers Malt. When converting an extract recipe to all grain, I use brewing software and a conversion chart to get everything to line up (OG, Color and IBUs) For the most part, all grain recipes start with the majority of the malt being Brewers Malt or Pale Malt (brewers preference) with specialty grains added to give color and flavor desired.
  7. BDawg62

    Paint Strainer Bag

    I do the same thing, basically just move around the hop sludge until most of the wort drains. Only takes about a minute. I clean mine when I clean my pot and equipment. I use Oxyclean Free to clean everything and a 5 minute soak in that with a rinse is all it needs. If it has some stubborn junk in it a bottle brush or other brush will clean that out in no time. https://www.amazon.com/Spider-Micron-Stainless-Strainer-Brewing/dp/B079N61YY4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549045782&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=hop+spider+stainless+steel&psc=1 This is the hop spider that I have been using for over a year now.
  8. BDawg62

    Paint Strainer Bag

    I use a Paint strainer bag in a Home Depot 5 gallon water as my mash screen. Just lift the bag, drain the wort, put the bag back in and sparge. Wort is from mash tun to kettle in less than 15 minutes (15 rather than 5 because I let the sparge sit for 10 minutes). Like @Jdub I use a hop spider during the boil. I just transfer all but the last qt or so of wort to my fermenter.
  9. BDawg62

    How many types of beer mugs do you own?

    So I have several "shaker pint" glasses and a Sam Adams glass. Unless I am drinking a pale ale or something hoppy (rarely happens), I just grab whatever glass I feel like pouring into. I used try to make sure that I had the proper glass for each beer style at least using a tulip on Belgians, but I have now found little difference. I am a beer judge and if glassware were really that important, I think we would be judging samples poured into the glassware for the style we are judging. Instead, we are judging samples poured into a clear plastic cup which maintains no head retention and has very little capacity to hold aromas.
  10. BDawg62

    Hop Storage

    Jdub, I seal all of my left over hops with a vacuum sealer. I am able to write the date and alpha acid information on the pack and then I store them in the freezer. I have used hops that are over a year old with no issues. By the way, I use the vacuum sealer to seal up my left over grains as well. I store them at basement temperature in plastic buckets. Dawg
  11. BDawg62

    Concentrated Wort

    Go to Walmart or your local big box store and look for a 16qt pot. You should be able to find a decent one for about $30, that will allow for a boil big enough to do your 4 gallon batches with top off to get to that volume.
  12. BDawg62

    Concentrated Wort

    So what you are wanting to know is can you steep #1 of grain in the same amount of water as the 8oz you normally do. The short answer is yes. I mash grains at 1.75 qt of water to 1# of grain and that is actually a thinner mash than what some use. You could go to a ratio of 1.25qt/# and still be fine. It also sounds like you are wanting to do a boil for a 4 gallon batch. There are several questions that need answered to give you a good response. Are you wanting to do a full 60 minute boil of your wort? How big of a pot do you have? What is your complete recipe (6# DME may or may not be a lot)? OK, I will make some assumptions here. My guess is that you don't have a pot that will hold 5 gallons of wort and still have room for a boil. But since you have been doing 2 gallon batches your pot can hold 3 gallons of wort and still be able to boil. If this is the case then you can steep your grains in the water you normally use for a 2 gallon batch and then add your DME and proceed with your boil as usual. When the boil is complete you can cool your wort, transfer it to your fermentation vessel and "top off" with water to get to the 4 gallon mark. Many extract brewers do it this way because they either don't have a pot large enough to boil 5 gallons of liquid or a burner capable of doing this since most kitchen stoves won't work.
  13. BDawg62

    Can yeast ferment to fast

    Spoodge, You questioned rather you overpitched or not. Technically it is near impossible to overpitch on a homebrew level, but that doesn't mean you should just throw as much yeast at your wort as you can. You said you started to get Krausen in 3 hours, not an issue as I have had fermentation start within 4 hours on many occasions in the past. However, I found that the beer does suffer to a point when doing this and here is the reason. Most of the character (desired flavors) from a particular yeast are put out in the lag phase and early fermentation. This is the point when the yeast are preparing the army size to take on the task at hand. When you pitch a level of yeast that doesn't require any real growth you take away that time for the yeast to produce these flavors. If you were using US-05 then that isn't really an issue because that yeast is clean anyway. You said you used Nottingham which is also fairly clean but it is an English strain so there are some low fruity esters that it will produce during this growth phase that will probably be lacking in your beer. Being an Irish ale, you do want some of that character to come through. You also said that you don't take an OG or FG which I wouldn't recommend. You can get by doing this but you are risking a fermentation that for some reason gets stuck and then you bottle and it restarts and BOOM (bottle bombs). Also you didn't state if this was an extract beer or an all grain beer. If it was extract then the recipe calculations should be within a point or 2 of actual OG. But if it is an AG batch, there are a lot of factors in the mash that can contribute to the OG being off from where your recipe has it calculated. In short, always take and OG and FG, it just makes you a better brewer. Dawg
  14. BDawg62

    Risk vs Reward

    @RickBeer So how much kickback do you get for the TurboTax sponsorship in your signature? I never realized we could sell advertising space in our signature. I will have to get on that to expediate my retirement. 不不不不
  15. BDawg62

    First batch

    Without a gravity reading I would give it another week. Another week will help it clear prior to bottling and make sure it is done.
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