Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by BDawg62

  1. BDawg62

    Guiness Irish Wheat Clone

    When bringing back yeast from bottles, the numbers are low and need to be built up to a level for proper pitching. 1st step is to make a small 1 cup starter of about 1.020 SG, add the bottle yeast and leave that go until you see visible activity and the yeast takes the gravity down. This could take a day or several days. 2nd step is to make another starter about 2 cups in size and about 1.036 SG and add the yeast from the 1st starter to that. Now you should have better numbers and in about 24 hours you should see that starter finish. 3rd step is to make another starter about 1qt in size and about 1.036 SG, add the yeast from the 2nd starter. In about 24 hours you should have enough yeast to pitch a 2 to 2.5 gallon batch at 1.050 SG. Yeast cell numbers will double about every 100 minutes but you are starting with only a few thousand cells. You need about 100 Billion for a 2 gallon batch. Note: Don't cold crash between starters, just pitch the entire amount into the next starter. Your third starter will be nearly 2 qts in volume when done and that starter you should cold crash for 24 hours and pour the spent wort off of the top of the yeast.
  2. BDawg62

    Highest Attenuation?

    When I was fermenting Extract batches, my average was 80% with a Saison at 90%. Extract manufacturers tend to mash at a higher temperature to keep more unfermentable sugars in the wort, so a very dry beer is difficult. Now I am doing all grain where I can control the mash temperatures and thus the fermentability. I tend to like my beers dryer so my average now is in the upper 80s with a Tripel a month ago that was at 94% and a Saison before that at 96%. Belgian yeast eat everything.😋 Wine and mead is a different story all together. My last wine was 106%.
  3. BDawg62

    Guiness Irish Wheat Clone

    The yeast may well have been alive. The issue would be that it is in such small numbers that it would have to be built up in multiple starters to get an adequate cell count for pitching. You stated that the "saving jar" had some bubbles. Was that fresh wort that the yeast were put into or just the beer from the bottles?
  4. Duece, I think I understand what you are saying and here is my take on it. The color being off is not necessarily an issue. 1. The Octoberfest should be an Amber color. Without knowing what you used to create the Cream Ale I can't comment on the color there. 2. You did not kill off your yeast with the higher temperatures you just stressed them and they created some undesirable flavors. You need to ferment in the lower 60s to prevent this in all but a few yeast strains and even those strains should start off in the low 60s for a couple of days. 3. If the taste is yeasty, you may be emptying the entire bottle when pouring. The yeast will settle to the bottom of the bottle and you have to carefully pour to keep it there. Dawg
  5. BDawg62

    New to brewing

    @D Kristof that is an excellent reference. I always think my chili is better the next day after it has had a day in the refrigerator. Beer is the same way, after the proper amount of time for the recipe and style, the flavors meld together. Dark beers need more time than lighter colored beers and higher alcohol beers need more time than lower alcohol beers.
  6. BDawg62

    ABV boost

    Mic Todd, You now have one of your goals as a homebrewer. Brew a beer that taste like Ninkasi's Pacific Rain. Once you have progressed in your knowledge, as a homebrewer you can brew just about anything your heart desires. Dawg
  7. BDawg62

    Fermentation temp control

    Jim, Yes and no. You are correct that after fermentation as gone through the first week the warmer temperatures will not affect the flavor. I said yes and no because you should gradually raise the temperature not go from 64 to 74 all at once. I start all of my beers at 61 or 62 degrees and keep my chamber set at the same temperature. As fermentation begins and gets more vigorous, the temperature of my beers will rise naturally a degree or 2. That allows fermentation to happen at 64 or 65 degrees. I maintain that temperature until fermentation begins to slow and then I start raising it to 68 or 70 a degree or 2 per day. Depending on the OG of the beer, I am at 68 by day 6 or 7 on beers below 1.050 and by day 9 or 10 on beers above that OG. This allows the yeast to clean up at warmer temperatures while not allowing the yeast to create off flavors early in fermentation because the temperature is too warm. Dawg
  8. BDawg62

    ABV boost

    CAL - Classic American Light
  9. BDawg62

    ABV boost

    This, believe it or not, teaches the most important lesson in brewing. PATIENCE, it is a brewers best friend. Wait until that first batch is in the bottle. That is even worse.
  10. BDawg62

    ABV boost

    @RickBeer after this weekend's showing by that team you root for, I am shocked you would even throw some smack. Might as well do it now while they are still in the top 25.
  11. BDawg62

    ABV boost

    In the future that is the best beer to experiment with. There are lots of recipes on the website with CAL as the base. Get your processes down first you will be grateful in the end. Not a Bulldog, I am a Buckeye to the core. Also a Browns fan as you probably surmised from my avatar.
  12. BDawg62

    ABV boost

    First of all, don’t add brown sugar you won’t like the results. Second, if you can brew the classic and make it taste flawless you have perfected your processes. I understand not liking Miller or Bud Light, but this beer will show any process faults. Nowhere to hide in a flavorless beer.
  13. BDawg62

    Organic and natural

    Someone from Mr. Beer will have to answer your Organic question. As far as brewing without cane sugar, it is rarely used in brewing.
  14. BDawg62

    ABV boost

    Mic Todd, Since this is your first post on the forum I am going to guess that you haven’t been involved in the hobby for a long period of time. Most new brewers want to immediately figure out how to brew a beer of 6, 7 or 8 percent because that just sounds awesome. My advice is to brew as the recipe states for at least 5 or more brews. Why do I say this? Before you spend a lot of time and money raising ABV just because you can, you first need to get processes down. Now, if you still must raise the ABV of your next brew, I would say to add LME or DME to your initial water and do a 30 minute boil with about .25oz of hops to add some bitterness and flavor. Then add your HME and proceed. However, you first must figure out how much water you are going to loose during this 30 minutes so that can start with the correct amount of water. Brewing looks like these things are easy to do and your beers will be great. Take advice from those of us who have made the mistakes in the past. Chase flavor not ABV. Dawg
  15. BDawg62

    14 Days Into Fermentation

    TBone, If you pulled the sample from the spigot you need to make sure to sanitize it before pulling anymore of your beer from it. I know it is hard to wait but each of your children (beers) needs to grow up before you can see their full potential. Leave it be for another week, taste a sample at bottling (I always do), but know that sample is very young and not fully developed yet. By the time you are 75 batches in you can tell from this sample how the beer will turn out. Carbonation adds a whole new level of taste and aroma that helps dramatically with the final product. Until you have several beers in your pipeline it can be difficult to be patient. Do yourself a favor and buy a mixed 6 pack of craft beer bottles from your local supermarket or carryout. Drink them while you are waiting and while drinking listen to podcast or read forums to fulfill your brewing addiction. Or if you have the funds, get another LBK and start a second batch. Welcome to the obsession we call brewing, Dawg
  16. BDawg62

    long time user, first time erruption

    That is a lot of extract for an LBK. Also, yeast are live creatures that have a mind of their own. I have done the same recipe and had times where there is hardly any krausen and others where I have to have a blow off tube. Just the nature of yeast.
  17. BDawg62

    Newbie Using Secondhand Kit

    You could use the entire can and all the yeast. It will yield a slightly stronger beer but it will work.
  18. BDawg62

    Starting to think about HME and LME

    If he is choosing to drink MichUltra over your homebrew it is time to cut him off. I have cut off two of my nephews after they brought a 12 of MichUltra to my Thanksgiving dinner knowing that I have all of the homebrew they could want. They don't even get it offered to them yet I offer to others who are there. My wife says that is mean spirited but I say there are unwritten laws that have been broken and they should be punished.
  19. BDawg62

    Starting to think about HME and LME

    Invite a few friends over and your problem will be solved.
  20. BDawg62

    Munton's Spray Malt Extract Question

    Kevin, I wouldn't use much more than 8 oz with an LBK batch. Since it is DME 8 oz is like adding 9.6 oz of LME to a batch. Dawg
  21. BDawg62

    Starting to think about HME and LME

    Beersmith is the only software that I use. With the new upgrade to Beersmith 3, I don't even have to use my old water spreadsheet for water additions. In addition to hundreds of all grain recipes, Beersmith also has hundreds of extract and partial mash recipes. Very good resource for brewers, worth every penny in my opinion.
  22. BDawg62

    Starting to think about HME and LME

    Jdub, As @RickBeer says he puts 2.5 gallons in his LBKs all the time. If you are concerned do as @D Kristof and @Cato say and only do 2.25 gallons with half of the ingredients. That is only a quart less so it will make your beer slightly higher in ABV and possibly concentrate flavors slightly. To help with overflow also brew at a lower temperature, this will slow down the yeast but they will still do their job, just with a little less krausen. Also plan for a little bit of overflow and then when it happens cleanup won't be as difficult. I don't use LBK's to ferment but even with a 3 gallon carboy I occasionally have blowoff. Depends on the mood of the yeast. Dawg
  23. Zorak, I have the same issue with larger gravity 5 gallon batches. If you mill your grains or have them milled and then mix them well, you will have no issue doing two mashes. If the grains are mixed fairly well, even dark grains, your PH differences will be minimal if any at all. Something that I would not worry about. In theory, you could actually mash the base grains and then do a steep with the specialty grains as you would with an extract batch and mix the two resulting wort volumes to make your beginning boil volume. Make sure to calculate your water volumes on a 5 gallon batch and then divide your mash water and sparge water by 2. Also, do the same with your water salts for PH adjustments if you use them. I have not had issues with doing this myself and the beers turned out fine. Dawg
  24. BDawg62

    What should I do with this beer?

    Creeps, I recently split a 5 gallon batch of Cream ale and added Orange Zest to half of it. That might be an option. Dawg
  25. BDawg62


    Every once in a while I even surprise myself. I can't however take full credit for this one. I saw it somewhere and stole the idea before I had etched kettles. To be completely sure of volume you need a dowel with marks made using boiling water and then a long handled plastic spoon or mash paddle (plastic so it can be sanitized) using cold water. There is actually a difference in volume at different temps.