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Everything posted by BDawg62

  1. BDawg62

    Full Mash Kit Instructions Faulty

    Also, please note that if you only have a 1 gallon jug to ferment this recipe in and you put 1 gallon of wort in that jug, you will end up with a mess. Also, I have brewed several beers with a 1 gallon volume. These are test batches that I do on the stove when I don't want to get out all of my equipment for a recipe that I don't know how good it will be anyway. They typically start with 2 to 3# of grain and my wort collected before the boil is usually a little more than 2 gallons. I boil very aggressively and boil off about 1 gallon during my hour boil. The instructions for your kit, aside from the line 3 and 4 duplication, are not great but they are not totally incorrect either. These instructions were written by an experienced all grain brewer with an actual mash tun or a means of straining the grains to separate them from the wort.
  2. BDawg62

    Carbonation versus Conditioning

    Depending on how strong the "winey-sour" aftertaste is it could just be what is called "Extract Twang". Some people have a greater ability to taste this than others. Also, depending on your carbonation level, it could be from the carbonic acid from carbonation. Try this, pour part of a beer and stir it with a spoon to get most of the carbonation out of it. Then taste it, if it still has the sour aftertaste it is not carbonic acid. This would mean that it is either the extract twang or something else.
  3. BDawg62

    older yeast

    Yeast find a way
  4. BDawg62

    1 gallon spigot

    Is it not tightening because the threads are stripped? Call Mr. Beer customer service, they are excellent and will help with your issue.
  5. BDawg62

    older yeast

    If you have Trub you have fermentation. I have had batches that never formed a thick layer of krausen and then others that started that way and then all of a sudden overflowed. Give it a week and then check your gravity, if it is close to FG then you are good. If not by then, I would pitch the US-05.
  6. That was what I used for my brew kettle for over a year. No issues with any of the beers.
  7. It must be nice to have graduates of a university up there that can read and find an address. 不不不
  8. BDawg62


    @Vfwrider316 glad to see this type of post. It means we are doing something worthwhile here. Dawg
  9. My current job status makes June almost impossible. I may or may not be working at that time so money will be tight.
  10. BDawg62

    DME to All grain conversion

    One of your first tasks with that new pot is to put 3 gallons of water in it and boil for 60 minutes on whatever burner or stove you plan to use for brewing. Then cool that water and see what volume you have left. Subtract that number from the initial 3 gallons and you will have your "boil off" rate. You will need this with AG to calculate your total mash water volumes. Also note that during the mash some water is lost to the grain absorption. Brewing software usually has a default volume to account for grain absorption but you need to know your "boil off" number.
  11. BDawg62

    DME to All grain conversion

    The short answer would be to mash the .2# of carapils and .2# of Medium English crystal with 5# of Brewers malt at 155 for 60 Minutes. Proceed with the rest of the recipe as it is printed after you have collected your wort from the mash.
  12. BDawg62

    DME to All grain conversion

    OK, there is and can be a lot of confusion between Pale Malt and 2 row malt(Brewers Malt). Let's go at it in this manner, Pale Malt and Brewers Malt are both made from 2 row malt as are most other malts made by Briess. Pale Malt has a color rating of 3.5 SRM while Brewers Malt is at 1.8 SRM. Both malts are base malts and both malts have enough diastatic power to convert themselves. Pale Malt will result in a beer with a slightly darker color than Brewers Malt. When converting an extract recipe to all grain, I use brewing software and a conversion chart to get everything to line up (OG, Color and IBUs) For the most part, all grain recipes start with the majority of the malt being Brewers Malt or Pale Malt (brewers preference) with specialty grains added to give color and flavor desired.
  13. BDawg62

    Paint Strainer Bag

    I do the same thing, basically just move around the hop sludge until most of the wort drains. Only takes about a minute. I clean mine when I clean my pot and equipment. I use Oxyclean Free to clean everything and a 5 minute soak in that with a rinse is all it needs. If it has some stubborn junk in it a bottle brush or other brush will clean that out in no time. https://www.amazon.com/Spider-Micron-Stainless-Strainer-Brewing/dp/B079N61YY4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549045782&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=hop+spider+stainless+steel&psc=1 This is the hop spider that I have been using for over a year now.
  14. BDawg62

    Paint Strainer Bag

    I use a Paint strainer bag in a Home Depot 5 gallon water as my mash screen. Just lift the bag, drain the wort, put the bag back in and sparge. Wort is from mash tun to kettle in less than 15 minutes (15 rather than 5 because I let the sparge sit for 10 minutes). Like @Jdub I use a hop spider during the boil. I just transfer all but the last qt or so of wort to my fermenter.
  15. BDawg62

    How many types of beer mugs do you own?

    So I have several "shaker pint" glasses and a Sam Adams glass. Unless I am drinking a pale ale or something hoppy (rarely happens), I just grab whatever glass I feel like pouring into. I used try to make sure that I had the proper glass for each beer style at least using a tulip on Belgians, but I have now found little difference. I am a beer judge and if glassware were really that important, I think we would be judging samples poured into the glassware for the style we are judging. Instead, we are judging samples poured into a clear plastic cup which maintains no head retention and has very little capacity to hold aromas.
  16. BDawg62

    Hop Storage

    Jdub, I seal all of my left over hops with a vacuum sealer. I am able to write the date and alpha acid information on the pack and then I store them in the freezer. I have used hops that are over a year old with no issues. By the way, I use the vacuum sealer to seal up my left over grains as well. I store them at basement temperature in plastic buckets. Dawg
  17. BDawg62

    Concentrated Wort

    Go to Walmart or your local big box store and look for a 16qt pot. You should be able to find a decent one for about $30, that will allow for a boil big enough to do your 4 gallon batches with top off to get to that volume.
  18. BDawg62

    Concentrated Wort

    So what you are wanting to know is can you steep #1 of grain in the same amount of water as the 8oz you normally do. The short answer is yes. I mash grains at 1.75 qt of water to 1# of grain and that is actually a thinner mash than what some use. You could go to a ratio of 1.25qt/# and still be fine. It also sounds like you are wanting to do a boil for a 4 gallon batch. There are several questions that need answered to give you a good response. Are you wanting to do a full 60 minute boil of your wort? How big of a pot do you have? What is your complete recipe (6# DME may or may not be a lot)? OK, I will make some assumptions here. My guess is that you don't have a pot that will hold 5 gallons of wort and still have room for a boil. But since you have been doing 2 gallon batches your pot can hold 3 gallons of wort and still be able to boil. If this is the case then you can steep your grains in the water you normally use for a 2 gallon batch and then add your DME and proceed with your boil as usual. When the boil is complete you can cool your wort, transfer it to your fermentation vessel and "top off" with water to get to the 4 gallon mark. Many extract brewers do it this way because they either don't have a pot large enough to boil 5 gallons of liquid or a burner capable of doing this since most kitchen stoves won't work.
  19. BDawg62

    Can yeast ferment to fast

    Spoodge, You questioned rather you overpitched or not. Technically it is near impossible to overpitch on a homebrew level, but that doesn't mean you should just throw as much yeast at your wort as you can. You said you started to get Krausen in 3 hours, not an issue as I have had fermentation start within 4 hours on many occasions in the past. However, I found that the beer does suffer to a point when doing this and here is the reason. Most of the character (desired flavors) from a particular yeast are put out in the lag phase and early fermentation. This is the point when the yeast are preparing the army size to take on the task at hand. When you pitch a level of yeast that doesn't require any real growth you take away that time for the yeast to produce these flavors. If you were using US-05 then that isn't really an issue because that yeast is clean anyway. You said you used Nottingham which is also fairly clean but it is an English strain so there are some low fruity esters that it will produce during this growth phase that will probably be lacking in your beer. Being an Irish ale, you do want some of that character to come through. You also said that you don't take an OG or FG which I wouldn't recommend. You can get by doing this but you are risking a fermentation that for some reason gets stuck and then you bottle and it restarts and BOOM (bottle bombs). Also you didn't state if this was an extract beer or an all grain beer. If it was extract then the recipe calculations should be within a point or 2 of actual OG. But if it is an AG batch, there are a lot of factors in the mash that can contribute to the OG being off from where your recipe has it calculated. In short, always take and OG and FG, it just makes you a better brewer. Dawg
  20. BDawg62

    Risk vs Reward

    @RickBeer So how much kickback do you get for the TurboTax sponsorship in your signature? I never realized we could sell advertising space in our signature. I will have to get on that to expediate my retirement. 不不不不
  21. BDawg62

    First batch

    Without a gravity reading I would give it another week. Another week will help it clear prior to bottling and make sure it is done.
  22. Just because you can't beat us there is no need to cry about it.
  23. BDawg62

    Smores Recipe

    As @RickBeer said you need to look at the recipe and see how the flavors are getting into the beer. You could use the St. Patrick's Stout but you would need to be able to get the graham cracker flavor into it and a mash is the only way I see doing that. Also, true chocolate flavor is not easily achieved, I have done it in a Mead with Dutched Cocoa Powder but not in a beer. The bakers chocolate may work but you would need a boil to use it and I would be afraid of the fat from the cocoa butter. If I were doing this recipe I would try Cocoa Nibs in secondary to achieve the chocolate flavor rather than the bakers chocolate. You could add the marshmallow flavor using the vodka without an issue. Also, if you look at the recipe there is a good amount of Lactose in the grain bill. Lactose is not fermentable by yeast so it leaves a sweetness that you would also want in this beer. You could try this but there would be no guarantees it would work. Mash 8oz of 2 Row malt with 8 oz of crushed Graham Crackers at 150 degrees for 30 minutes in 2 qts of water. Strain off resulting wort and add water to achieve 1.5 qt of wort. Add 6 oz of lactose and boil for 15 minutes or until you have 1 qt of wort remaining. Remove from heat and add your St. Patricks Stout HME and ferment as usual. After 2 weeks transfer to another LBK and add 4oz of crushed Cocoa nibs and 2 oz of marshmallow vodka. Note: soak 1 vanilla bean in the 2 oz of marshmallow vodka at beginning of fermentation Let sit in secondary for at least 1 week, 10 days may be better. Bottle and condition as usual
  24. BDawg62

    Smores Recipe

    https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/402532/s-mores-stout It is an all grain recipe.
  25. BDawg62


    Once you get your water dialed in, BS3 does a great job with water adjustments.