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Everything posted by BDawg62

  1. BDawg62

    Risk vs Reward

    @RickBeer So how much kickback do you get for the TurboTax sponsorship in your signature? I never realized we could sell advertising space in our signature. I will have to get on that to expediate my retirement. 不不不不
  2. BDawg62

    First batch

    Without a gravity reading I would give it another week. Another week will help it clear prior to bottling and make sure it is done.
  3. Just because you can't beat us there is no need to cry about it.
  4. BDawg62

    Smores Recipe

    As @RickBeer said you need to look at the recipe and see how the flavors are getting into the beer. You could use the St. Patrick's Stout but you would need to be able to get the graham cracker flavor into it and a mash is the only way I see doing that. Also, true chocolate flavor is not easily achieved, I have done it in a Mead with Dutched Cocoa Powder but not in a beer. The bakers chocolate may work but you would need a boil to use it and I would be afraid of the fat from the cocoa butter. If I were doing this recipe I would try Cocoa Nibs in secondary to achieve the chocolate flavor rather than the bakers chocolate. You could add the marshmallow flavor using the vodka without an issue. Also, if you look at the recipe there is a good amount of Lactose in the grain bill. Lactose is not fermentable by yeast so it leaves a sweetness that you would also want in this beer. You could try this but there would be no guarantees it would work. Mash 8oz of 2 Row malt with 8 oz of crushed Graham Crackers at 150 degrees for 30 minutes in 2 qts of water. Strain off resulting wort and add water to achieve 1.5 qt of wort. Add 6 oz of lactose and boil for 15 minutes or until you have 1 qt of wort remaining. Remove from heat and add your St. Patricks Stout HME and ferment as usual. After 2 weeks transfer to another LBK and add 4oz of crushed Cocoa nibs and 2 oz of marshmallow vodka. Note: soak 1 vanilla bean in the 2 oz of marshmallow vodka at beginning of fermentation Let sit in secondary for at least 1 week, 10 days may be better. Bottle and condition as usual
  5. BDawg62

    Smores Recipe

    https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/402532/s-mores-stout It is an all grain recipe.
  6. BDawg62


    Once you get your water dialed in, BS3 does a great job with water adjustments.
  7. BDawg62


    Creeps, Two different schools of thought on this one. My take is probably because I am not a Hop Head. From your past posts I believe you are. At 127 IBUs a beer is totally undrinkable to me but probably right in your wheelhouse. Dawg
  8. BDawg62


    Creeps, I do agree with using different hops but I can not support the argument that you can just substitute them Oz for Oz in a recipe and get good results. If you do an IPA with this hop schedule with Cascade and Citra you would get very different results regarding IBUs and thus flavor and drinkability. This is a 2.5 gallon batch. Cascade 5.5%aa Citra12%aa Citra 60 Minute 1oz 1oz .5oz 30 Minute .5oz .5oz .25oz 5 Minute .5oz .5oz .25oz Flameout .5oz .5oz .5oz Dry Hop 1oz 1oz 1oz Total IBU 58.5 127 63.8 The second hop schedule for Citra is much closer and will give you a better understanding of the difference between Citra and Cascade.
  9. BDawg62


    You can definitely use a different hop the next time. SMASH recipes are the best way to test what different ingredients do to beer. By only changing 1 component of the recipe you get a feel for the change that ingredient makes. If you used 2 row instead of Maris Otter with Cascade you would also end up with a different beer than the one you brewed. I would use a brew software to calculate your recipe. Brewers friend has a good one that is free. https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator Different hops have different levels of Alpha Acids that determine bitterness. Cascade which you used in this batch is typically around 7 % AA where something like Citra is around 12% AA. Using the same amount of Citra and you did Cascade will result in a much more bitter beer. Note: Citra is a very good one for a SMASH recipe.
  10. BDawg62

    Mr Beer American Lager Temperature

    At a temperature in the low 40s fermentation either stopped or never started to begin with. Warm up the keg to 62 to 66 degrees and let it ferment for at least 2 weeks, probably 3 weeks.
  11. BDawg62

    Light beer

    If I were you, I would just brew it as is. It is not going to be great beer but it will give you practice on your processes which is more important for a new brewer.
  12. BDawg62

    Problem averted, hopefully

    It will be just fine. Stirring the yeast will not hurt one bit. In fact, the instructions used to say to stir. But they took that part out because of the risk of new brewers not sanitizing the spoon that they stirred with.
  13. BDawg62

    Returning to Mr Beer

    Love to see those yeast doing their thing. But be careful admitting to perving your beer. You will get yelled at by @RickBeer 不不不
  14. BDawg62

    US-04 or US-05

    Use US-04 when you want to leave your beer a little sweeter and more full bodied. It will not attenuate quite as much as 05 will. Definately MaryAnn, Ginger was too high maintenance for me.
  15. BDawg62

    VooDoo that I'm about to do

    A quick Google search came up with 1 cup brown sugar = 2/3 cup agave nectar I made the VooDoo recipe one time and like others didn't like the taste the brown sugar gave. Brown sugar uses molasses as an ingredient and molasses can not be completely processed by beer yeast. So the yeast take what they can and leave a black licorice flavor behind.
  16. BDawg62

    New Brewer Today

    Grappler, Welcome, Lots of good information here. Read @RickBeer signature topics especially the one directed at new brewers. Don't expect your first batch to be awesome (although is may be). Time is the best friend of a brewer. The three weeks waiting for your beer to finish fermenting can seem like an eternity. Then 4 more waiting for carbonation to happen is torture. Just take that time and read on this forum and learn. It will improve your brewing. Dawg
  17. BDawg62

    US-04 or US-05

    US-05 because it fits a lot more styles than US-04. Basically an American strain vs a British strain
  18. BDawg62

    yeast starter

    JDub, The blowoff you experienced had nothing to do with the fact you made a starter. I almost always make a starter and when I do my calculations, I am normally at least double the recommended number of yeast cells and sometimes even triple. While you can overpitch, at the homebrew level you would have to pitch so much yeast it would be rediculous. At least that is what I have found from all of my research over the past couple of years. I have brews that experience a blow off on occasion and sometimes it is with a yeast that I already used on a previous brew that behaved fine. I have had it where I used the same yeast for 5 generations and had Krausens that barely formed foam on the surface to Krausens that required a blow off tube to contain them. Remember, Yeast are living creatures and different generations behave differently (just like humans 不). Reading that you had a 3 gallon batch in a 3.5 gallon fermenter also contributed to the blow off. I used to ferment 2.5 gallons in a 3 gallon carboy and on occasion still do, but I also had quite a few blowoffs doing that. I now usually ferment my 2.5 gallon batches in a 5 gallon carboy. Even with that amount of headspace, I have had a batch where I needed a blowoff tube because the krausen came up to the airlock. I will say that 2 cups of water and 1/2 cup of DME sounds like a higher gravity starter than I would like. Did you check the gravity of the starter? It should be somewhere between 1.032 and 1.040 with 1.036 being the optimum gravity to grow your yeast. Remember with starter, you are not looking to make a beer just grow up your yeast. Dawg
  19. BDawg62

    Looking for opinions.....

    You need hops, at least a bittering addition. Without hops you don't have beer. Here is a simple DME 2.25 gallon recipe. Blonde Ale 2.5# Pale DME .25oz Columbus (Tomohawk) 60 Minutes .25oz Columbus (Tomohawk) 15 Minutes .50oz Cascade 1 minute 1 pkt US - 05 yeast
  20. BDawg62


    S-04 is a fickle yeast as are most English strains. Be sure to not let the wort cool below the current fermentation temperature or the yeast will drop out and go to sleep to early. I always allow my English strains to raise 1 degree per day during fermentation to ensure that it doesn't drop early.
  21. BDawg62

    Wort, Yeast & Temperature

    Fire Rooster, Pitching into 70 degree wort is OK but it would be better to be a little cooler. When the yeast are first pitched is the most critical time for flavor developement since that is when they are making sure they have enough population to do the job at hand. During this time if it is too warm, they will put off flavors that may not be desirable. Once fermentation starts temperature is still important but not quite as critical as in the beginning. If my wort is too warm when I am ready to pitch, I put my fermenter in my fermentation chamber and cool it to below where I want to ferment and then pitch. If you don't have a fermentation chamber a cooler with ice bottles or your refrigerator will work to cool the wort. As long as your sanitation practices are good, you could wait 12 hours to pitch at the proper temperature. Every beer that I brew gets pitched at 62 (it don't do lagers yet) and then adjusted for fermentation temperature based on the yeast. Belgians and Saisons are allowed to raise to the mid 60s with all other ales remaining at 62 for the next 3 days before being allowed to rise. Dawg
  22. BDawg62


    Cato, Test strips aren't very accurate. PH meter is the better way to go. And I will tell you my cheap one is more frustration to me than it is worth. Dawg
  23. BDawg62

    Peanut Butter Stout

    I still want clarification on this line. I must be doing something wrong because I don't get near that many bottles to the gallon.
  24. BDawg62

    Temp & Fermentation

    I use a refractometer throughout the process. I have used a hydrometer to check my readings and still do on occasion. I also have a $135 refractometer manufactured by Milwaukee. https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-MA871-BOX-Refractometer-Measurements/dp/B00G74Q9PS/ref=asc_df_B00G74Q9PS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312193596474&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1147946059060666573&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014870&hvtargid=aud-466346483690:pla-499621926157&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63852391884&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312193596474&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1147946059060666573&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014870&hvtargid=aud-466346483690:pla-499621926157 It gives more accurate readings than a cheap $30 one but I used to use one of those as well and had good results. This one is much easier and more accurate.
  25. BDawg62

    Temp & Fermentation

    It is a diacetyl rest but it also does help with finishing fermentation. It is not necessary but it doesn't hurt either. I always raise my temperature as fermentation finishes by a degree per day until I hit 66 or 67 degrees. I leave it at that temperature for a few days and then turn off the heat and allow to drop to basement ambient temperature prior to bottling. I never cold crash (just my preference)