efdbrian

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efdbrian last won the day on November 16 2015

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About efdbrian

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday March 10

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    Palmyra, PA

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  1. It would add some time, but can you split the grain and do 2 separate mashes?
  2. Here are my notes from last year's NHC (aka homebrewcon). https://docs.google.com/document/d/10StNSeVWOKwzIMTmsDeNPHvwRMjpz2f2IBwqzKvAbv0/edit?usp=sharing You can also go here to download the slides and audio from the 2016 presentation. It's called "How Cold Steeping Malt Can Elevate Your Beer" https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/resources/conference-seminars/
  3. Welcome, @Jsmall41! As others have stated it is 3 weeks in the fermenter. Mr. Beer's instructions used to say two weeks, but a year or so ago they updated that so that it now says 3 weeks. The info that you found online is probably from the old instructions.
  4. That sounds like a a good idea. I have one of those broiler pans that allows the juices to drain off. I could use that.
  5. @AnthonyC, how was the head retention on the one from the brewery? While I love bacon, I see a lot of people talking about how much the grease in the bacon kills the head.
  6. I have a growler similar to that, but I'm not sure that I'd give it up for root beer. HAHA I got the root beer kit and a refill pack for my daughter. We mixed up 4 gallons in a corney keg so that she would have root beer on tap. It went ok, but there were lessons learned. 1. It's difficult to thoroughly mix all that in a corney keg. The first half a dozen glasses or so were very sweet. 2. Force carbonation of soda is nothing like beer. Even at high pressure it had a difficult time absorbing the CO2. After looking into it online I read that someone else force carbinated the water before mixing. I'm a little worried about putting the brown sugar in and stirring if I go that route. Seems like it would give it lots of nucleation opportunity and you'd essentially stir out all the CO2. So I think I'll add the yeast to the keg next time.
  7. I also have some of the Craft Meister Brewery Wash. It's great to soak boil kettles in and remove any build up on the bottom from after the boil. I let it soak while I clean up other things. Sometimes I let it sit overnight. It works really well and requires little 'elbow grease'. As with anything else it's all about the right tool for the right job.
  8. A lot of trub (the sediment on the bottom) is a good thing. That means that the yeast multiplied and are doing their thing. If it's close to the spigot, put something like a couple CD cases under the front of the LBK. That should help. Oilers fan in Pennsylvania here. When I started watching hockey in the early 80s, there wasn't much selection for games on TV here in the USA. That meant a lot of Oilers on TV because, well, it was the 80s. Been a fan ever since. In fact, I finally went to Edmonton to catch a couple games at Rexall last year. I wanted to at least be able to say that I saw them play there before they moved to the new barn. I was hoping to get back for the first season at the new arena, but that's not likely to work out.
  9. I'll second what @Creeps McLane said. Switch out the lids and carb it up. Yes you will probably get some sediment on the first pint or two, but any time you transfer from one vessel to another you risk oxygen exposure. In this scenario, I don't see a need to do that. That being said, once you pressurize it, try to pull a sample. If there happens to be a lot of sediment at the bottom of the keg, there is a possibility that it could clog the dip tube. If that were to happen, then you might have to rack it to another keg. If it were me, that would be the only time that I would in this case.
  10. First, welcome to the hobby and the forum, @Blackhawks. Second, as @RickBeer stated you are just fine based on the information provided. There is a possibility that the final temperature of the wort was a little colder than the low end of the temperature range for fermentation. That's not a problem. If that happens you may notice that it will be a little slower to start fermentation. As you warmed up the room, that would have also brought up the temperature of the wort. That's not a bad thing at all. While that is fermenting, take a few minutes to read the links in @RickBeer's signature. Pay particular attention to the fermentation/conditioning schedule of 3-4-3. Three weeks fermentation, four weeks conditioning and three days in the fridge before drinking. Enjoy! P.S. Is your screen name an indication that you are a Chicago Blackhawks fan?
  11. In addition to what @MRB Josh R said I'd also take a look at the swing top bottles. They could be leaking around the seal which would allow the CO2 to escape. If you plan to continue using those consider replacing the seals with new ones.
  12. I have a friend that does this. He uses a pulley system to lift the bag of wet grains. I don't remember for sure, but I think he hooks it up under a folding ladder.
  13. http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter17-2.html Some people say that the bazooka screen favors channeling where the sparge water tends to flow more through the middle and less on the sides. This is less of a problem when batch sparging and more so with fly sparging.
  14. I've had a couple of the beers and kept the recipe after I drank it. I thought it would be interesting to buy one, brew the recipe and compare.
  15. There's a beer out there called Old Engine Oil. It's a really good beer. Maybe that's their secret.