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efdbrian last won the day on May 15 2017

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About efdbrian

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday March 10

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    Palmyra, PA

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  1. If you already have the CO2 tank, then there is no need to add the sugar. Hooking the keg up to CO2 will carbonate the beer. Pressure and temperature will dictate how long it will take to carbonate to the volumes of CO2 that you desire.
  2. I’ll also add to the hop naked (not in a sack). When I do that with pellet hops, a good deal ends up in the fermenter. And that’s ok! If it’s a big batch and I’m siphoning I’ll give the wort a good stir to accumulate most of the hop material in the middle of the pot. If it’s a small batch that I pour into a LBK, I usually just pour it in hops and all.
  3. Sounds like more of a 'welcome back' then. I do remember people previously stating that old instructions used to include references to adding sugar. Makes total sense now! Sugar still has it's place in brewing and can be found in many commercial breweries though usually it's reserved for high ABV beers like double IPAs. Those topics are probably better off being discussed over in the advanced techniques part of the forum.
  4. @Dan`s Brew, first welcome to the hobby. As you can tell there are many different ways to go about things. As some of the others have said, I'd give the LME or booster a try and compare the results. Maybe you can even brew them back to back your original way and with the booster. That way you might be able to drink them at the same time. Many of us on here actually have more than one LBK which would make things even easier to brew and compare. Think of what you are seeing as advice and general guidelines. In the end, you are making beer for you and possibly a few friends. If you like it, keep making it the way you did or maybe look for ways to make it even better! In brewing there are few things that are absolutes, but there are many generally accepted practices. Which ones you choose to follow and to what degree is part of what makes this fun. So, brew your beer and enjoy the fruits of your labor!
  5. Absolutely! As far as this batch goes, just keep going and see what you get. And most importantly enjoy what you create!
  6. Ok. If it went through the boil you should be pretty safe. Grains have naturally occurring lactobacillus on them. If the grain went directly into the fermenter you could run a risk of an infected beer. As as far as off flavors, if it wasn’t much grain it shouldn’t cause much of an off flavor. Generally you want to keep the grains out of the boil. Boiling grains will cause the beer to be astringent.
  7. First a bit of clarification please. Did the 2 row go in with the hops into your boil kettle or into the fermenting beer as a dry hop? This will make a difference.
  8. Welcome to the addiction. Think of this site as your support group. 🙂
  9. Carb drops won’t change that, but time will have an effect. Generally hops become more subdued with time. Give it a few weeks, the. Put one in the fridge for a few days before drinking. If you like it, consider them done and start drinking them. If not, give it a couple more weeks in the bottle at room temp before sampling again. Keep going until you feel like it’s good.
  10. And save the bottle of beer until later in the brew day. I've made the mistake of starting too early and I find that I more easily forget to do things.
  11. A FG of 1.024 is quite high if your OG was 1.030. That's only 20% attenuation and the ABV comes out to less then 1%.
  12. I'm not as politically correct and say that I hop naked. Haha
  13. I think you are in the right ballpark with the pumpkin spices. As always it's better to go easy and then you can add more when fermentation is complete if needed. I'm not sure about the amount of pumpkin puree. The cans are 15oz and I used 2 in a 5 gallon batch last year. I don't remember if that measurement is volume or weight though. Most of the perceived pumpkin flavor comes from the spices. What's your plan on caramelizing the puree?
  14. Ride on, @76shovel. Just call it Session Thunder Bay IPA.
  15. One a homebrew scale, you have quite a while. It's more of a concern on a commercial scale where hundreds of gallons of beer are exerting pressure on the yeast cake at the bottom of the fermenter, John Palmer talks about this in "How to Brew". I actually just finished the chapter on yeast in the 4th addition. Here's a link to his online version where autoysis is discussed. http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/what-is-different-for-brewing-lager-beer/autolysis