efdbrian

Community Members
  • Content count

    141
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

efdbrian last won the day on May 15

efdbrian had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About efdbrian

  • Rank
    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday March 10

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Palmyra, PA

Recent Profile Visitors

934 profile views
  1. The short answer is less water needed for big beers. In the above example, there is a 47lb grain bill. I can get close to 20 pounds or grain plus water in my mash tun. This means that I would need to do 3 separate mashes. By conventional theory you would need around 15 gallons of strike water for the three mashes depending on your preferred mash thickness. Add in sparge water and you have even more. I'll say 20 gallons total for round math. If your average boil off rate is about a gallon per hour, you would need to boil your wort for about 15 hours to make a 5 gallon batch. Not very practical. What they talked about in the show is that in their brewery (I think it was Jamil) when they have a big beer, they reuse the wort from the first mash as the strike water. If you split this grain bill up for @TacTicToe's example, the mash schedule might look something like this: Mash 16lb with 5 gallons of water. If you assume a grain absorption rate of 0.5 quarts per pound, you can sparge with about 2 gallons and you will collect about 5 gallons of wort. Clean out your mash tun Heat up the collected 5 gallons of wort to strike temp and mash the next 16lbs of grain using the wort collected from the first mash as your strike water. Sparge with another 2 gallons of water to collect 5 gallons of wort. Clean out your mash tun Heat up the collected 5 gallons of wort to strike temp and mash the final 15lbs of grain using the wort collected from the first mash as your strike water. Sparge with water as needed to get your target starting volume. Total collected wort will be ~6.5 - 7 gallons depending on your system and how long you want to boil. This is much better than 20 gallons in the 'traditional' way of thinking. I know you are probably saying to yourself "Won't the sugars in the wort be absorbed into the grain each time?" Apparently the answer is no. From their experience in the brewery, they have not found that to be the case. I didn't want to believe it when I listened to the show and I'm really anxious to try this.
  2. Yeah which is what surprised me. I would have guessed that there would be decreasing efficiencies.
  3. That was an interesting episode. I would have never guessed.
  4. @BDawg62 good point with the environmental factor
  5. No real need for heating unless you are doing something like a Belgian where they ferment at higher temperatures.
  6. I'll add another vote for using a bigger grain bag. As was stated tie it loose. It will allow the bag to flatten out in the pot and you won't need to put in the extra water.
  7. It would add some time, but can you split the grain and do 2 separate mashes?
  8. Here are my notes from last year's NHC (aka homebrewcon). https://docs.google.com/document/d/10StNSeVWOKwzIMTmsDeNPHvwRMjpz2f2IBwqzKvAbv0/edit?usp=sharing You can also go here to download the slides and audio from the 2016 presentation. It's called "How Cold Steeping Malt Can Elevate Your Beer" https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/resources/conference-seminars/
  9. Welcome, @Jsmall41! As others have stated it is 3 weeks in the fermenter. Mr. Beer's instructions used to say two weeks, but a year or so ago they updated that so that it now says 3 weeks. The info that you found online is probably from the old instructions.
  10. That sounds like a a good idea. I have one of those broiler pans that allows the juices to drain off. I could use that.
  11. @AnthonyC, how was the head retention on the one from the brewery? While I love bacon, I see a lot of people talking about how much the grease in the bacon kills the head.
  12. I have a growler similar to that, but I'm not sure that I'd give it up for root beer. HAHA I got the root beer kit and a refill pack for my daughter. We mixed up 4 gallons in a corney keg so that she would have root beer on tap. It went ok, but there were lessons learned. 1. It's difficult to thoroughly mix all that in a corney keg. The first half a dozen glasses or so were very sweet. 2. Force carbonation of soda is nothing like beer. Even at high pressure it had a difficult time absorbing the CO2. After looking into it online I read that someone else force carbinated the water before mixing. I'm a little worried about putting the brown sugar in and stirring if I go that route. Seems like it would give it lots of nucleation opportunity and you'd essentially stir out all the CO2. So I think I'll add the yeast to the keg next time.
  13. I also have some of the Craft Meister Brewery Wash. It's great to soak boil kettles in and remove any build up on the bottom from after the boil. I let it soak while I clean up other things. Sometimes I let it sit overnight. It works really well and requires little 'elbow grease'. As with anything else it's all about the right tool for the right job.
  14. A lot of trub (the sediment on the bottom) is a good thing. That means that the yeast multiplied and are doing their thing. If it's close to the spigot, put something like a couple CD cases under the front of the LBK. That should help. Oilers fan in Pennsylvania here. When I started watching hockey in the early 80s, there wasn't much selection for games on TV here in the USA. That meant a lot of Oilers on TV because, well, it was the 80s. Been a fan ever since. In fact, I finally went to Edmonton to catch a couple games at Rexall last year. I wanted to at least be able to say that I saw them play there before they moved to the new barn. I was hoping to get back for the first season at the new arena, but that's not likely to work out.
  15. First, welcome to the hobby and the forum, @Blackhawks. Second, as @RickBeer stated you are just fine based on the information provided. There is a possibility that the final temperature of the wort was a little colder than the low end of the temperature range for fermentation. That's not a problem. If that happens you may notice that it will be a little slower to start fermentation. As you warmed up the room, that would have also brought up the temperature of the wort. That's not a bad thing at all. While that is fermenting, take a few minutes to read the links in @RickBeer's signature. Pay particular attention to the fermentation/conditioning schedule of 3-4-3. Three weeks fermentation, four weeks conditioning and three days in the fridge before drinking. Enjoy! P.S. Is your screen name an indication that you are a Chicago Blackhawks fan?