MrWhy

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Everything posted by MrWhy

  1. So what does everyone have going on with the brewing schedule? I am out of town off an on a bit coming up and wanted to have everything brewed and bottled before then...so I sat down and sketched out my schedule.... Sat 2/27 - Brewed Kenneth Blonde - DONE! Fri 3/4 - Bottle my ESB+ (ESB hopped with Goldings); Brew Dortmunder - DONE! Sat 3/12 - Chill! ** MAJOR ERROR** Misread a calendar and bottled Kenneth Blonde...ONE WEEK EARLY!! Donkey Spit what is wrong with me.... Sat 3/12 - Brew Quad Sat 3/19 - Brew Festivus Sat 3/26 - Bottle Dortmunder, Brew Hopped CAL Sat 4/2 - Bottle Quad, Brew Bovine Sat 4/9 - Bottle Festivus (3 weeks); bottle CAL (2 weeks.) Sat 4/16 - CHILL. Sat 4/23 - Bottle Bovine.....AND DONE! (AS THE SCHEDULE CHANGES I AM EDITING THIS). And that shuts me down until May.... What do you all think? What are you all up to the next few weeks?
  2. Well.....to be honest I was not trying to convince you to do anything! For my Chinook IRA - The IRA has an IBU of 70 and it has an ABV of 6.5%.....SO..... 1. Add some sugar to dry it out and bring the ABV up to 8.5%. This does not make the beer "less" malty, but it will leave it as malty as it is at 8.5....meaning I want it at 8.5 but I do not want to add any more malt to get there. It is fine where it is at. 2. I've got to be easy handed with with the Chinook. It is already at 70 which is more than enough for me. At the same time I've got to go heavy because I really want Chinook to be the dominant experience. (I'm thinking I trying a Stone Arrogant Bastard-esque thing.) I've got to figure out how to get the most flavor and aroma without adding much in the way of IBUs. I am thinking doubling at 7 minutes and doubling at 5. Then for good measure giving a single at dry hop. Maybe I'll double at dry hop. With the sugar, and no steeping grains, this one may take a bit to condition and I don't want to lose that aroma. Which means I need to secure some more chinook!!!!!
  3. I may be wrong, but here is how I look at it.... A beer is experienced in "layers." The first experience layer is color and aroma. Because of that, any dry hop is going to be what characterizes the beer. So by using German Mandarina as a dry hop, you are "coloring" everything after with that aroma. Which is not a bad choice at all! By adding the amarillo at flameout, you are going to get amarillo aroma that is in the background with the german mandarina in the forefront. The aroma should be really pleasing, and I think it will complement the IRA very well (which has a malty with almost IPA bitterness going on.) I think you are going to get a nice, almost west coast-ish red IPA thing going. After the aroma comes taste and mouthfeel. Taste will be a combination of bitterness (IBUs), malt, hop flavor, and mouth feel. The IRA, mentioned, is a malty beer with a nice bitter bite. If you push the Amarillo back a bit, into the 8 minute boil mark, you will add the amarillo flavor along with the aroma. I love what you are doing with those hops and the IRA....you are inspiring me to get out my kettle and finally brew this chinook hopped IRA I'm sitting on.
  4. The IRA is a great beer to experiment with hops and more. I've got an IRA and a bunch of Chinook hops I've been waiting to brew up. But the stresses of life, heat, etc. keep foiling me. Enough about me though, let's talk about you. Personally, I think you are spot on.....BUT....for the sake of brewing knowledge and reflection - Why are adding the Amarillo at flameout and not at the 5 minute mark? What is your thought process here? What are you hoping to achieve with the dry hop of the Mandarina instead of reversing it.....Mandarina at flameout and Amarillo dry hopping? Like I said, I think your beer is going to be outstanding, but I am always interested in why a brewer does what a brewer does.
  5. too much beer

    It sounds like a fine brew, worthy of the name. Not that we would expect anything less of you. Still, simply meeting the expectations you've set is an accomplishment in and of itself.
  6. No time frame.
  7. I take my status as Brewmaster seriously.
  8. LME is additional malt..... In standard brewing (all grain), you take your grains and "mash" them....soak them in hot water (approx 150-165) for an extended period of time....an hour or more. This mashing is what pulls the sugar/starches/malt out of the grains (along with flavor, color, etc.) You then separate the grains from the water and this mixture is now called wort. This wort is very important!!!!! The yeast are going to eat the sugars in this wort, and in thanks for us feeding them they are going to give us alcohol. It is the greatest evidence we have that the Great Brewer exists and wants us to all work together. Beer is our lesson that cooperation matters. When we feed the hungry, good things happen. The more sugar you have (more grain used) the more ABV, the "thicker/heavier" the beer, the more flavor, etc. Now this is an involved process that requires at the minimum grains, a way to heat a large batch of water to the appropriate temps, proper sized vessels, etc. It is a lot of work. Even the simplest form, brew in a bag (which I have done) requires a lot more time and work. It's not easy! So the Great Brewer inspired good people to do this work for us. There are living saints whose job it is to do all the work of getting that malt/sugar out of the grains, and then extracting it from the liquid and giving it to us so we can make beer without having to extract the goodness ourselves. This comes in two forms, liquid and dry....LME (liquid malt extract) and DME (dry malt extract.) What you have with Mr. Beer cans is an HME....hopped malt extract. The other important part of the equation that makes modern beer are the hops. In standard brewing, you do a hop boil. 60 minutes (sometimes more, sometimes less) putting in hops to get the bitterness (the IPA bite) and flavor/aroma. Again, a longer process. The Mr. Beer HMEs have done the hopping for you. That is why you can essentially add water and have beer. The recipes allow you to work with hops and malt to get a different type of beer. In Mr. Beer recipes, adding LME will add more malt for the yeast to work with. This will raise ABV, add body, and increase the flavor....the beer is "maltier" when you add more malt. By adding hops, depending on how long the boil is, you will add a lot of aroma (which impacts taste) some flavor, and sometimes more IBUs. You did not ruin this beer by forgetting to add the LME. It will have less ABV than the recipe, and the hops might shine a little more (since there is less malt to balance it out.) But they might not.....most likely it would be a subtle difference that you'd have to have an experienced palate to notice. Meaning if we put two beers side by side, the only difference being one was made with the additional LME, one made without, most people probably wouldn't be able to pick it out. The things you have in your favor are that it is a craft can, not a standard can. Those have more malt than the standard. You can definitely taste a difference between a standard and a standard with an LME added. Also, since it is an IPA, you've got the IBUs kicking in and you did a hop addition. Your beer is going to be good. Now recipes that call for 2....3.....LMEs....definitely a difference if you leave them out......
  9. Have you had the Belching Beaver Peanut Butter Milk Stout? On nitro it such a great beer....but only 5.3 ABV.....practically water. When you get your recipe post it!!!!! I'd love to see it. One of my goals....one day...is an imperial peanut butter milk stout at like.....9% ABV.
  10. If your question is in regards to amount of malt/abv impact, then yes. They equate. use 8.8 oz...or .55 lbs. In those regards, LME is LME (mostly). What @MRB Josh R is pointing out though, is that these are different LMEs and using the Briess Gold Light is different than using the Mr. Beer Gold. It would be like replacing the Mr. Beer Gold with the Mr. Beer pale. There is going to be a difference. Is it enough of a difference to be a deal breaker? I would say no. You will still make a great beer. Just not exactly the same beer as with a wheat LME. Do you have access to a homebrew store? With the shipping costs and issues, you might want to really look at using pale DME (dry malt extract.) By in bulk if you can. The supplement that with some partial mash work. Whenever you are working a recipe and just can't get the LME packs, people here can help you replicate using DME and some grains.
  11. I've been sitting this one out. I felt it wouldn't be fair to jump in....I wouldn't want to end up being a two time recipe winner.
  12. Nice! I would love to work with Warrior more again. I think it sounds like a great addition to a dry hop mix.
  13. I really liked the cascade with my saison.
  14. recipe

    Without the "little war" you began, those tales would have never been written. It takes a village.
  15. recipe

    Recipe looks outstanding!
  16. This was my experience in Japan!
  17. Tasting Notes 8/12/17 Slap Hoppy Stout, bottled 3/25 - approximately 20 weeks conditioning. In case you don't know, the Slappy Hoppy stout is an 8% stout consisting of 2 St. Pat's, 1 Robust, and dry hopped with Goldings and Northern Brewer. I am almost positive I went with 2 or 3 robust to bring it to 9 or 10, and I know I did not dry hop, but probably went with a 5 minute hop addition. (I did not take notes on how I did this.) First off, this is a really good stout. However, at this point, the hop flavor and aroma has faded dramatically from previous tastings. It is now much more a winter stout. I think I like the hoppier/younger version better, but that could just be that it is currently something like 185 degrees here. If I were to do this one again..... 2 St. Pat's LMEs 2 robust LMEs 1 cup sugar approx 10% ABV (go big or go home) -- Steeping grains - 2 packs 2 rows brewer, oats, carapils..... -- 2 packs goldings, 2 packs northern brewer.....2 of them at 5, 2 of them at flameout. (I don't dry hop.) -- Plan to drink at the 8 to 12 week mark to hop flavor and aroma.
  18. Well....what are you trying to do? Are you trying to replace the brown sugar in the voodoo that you do with booster? Or are you using booster to up the ABV of the original recipe? You can use as many packs of booster as you want/don't want for any recipe. Essentially booster is used to add some body and up the ABV. (honestly, mostly to up the ABV without drying the beer out, like sugar does. But don't take that wrong!!!! There are absolutely times you want to dry the beer out while upping the ABV!) 2 packs in a standard 2 gallon recipe will up the ABV by 1.3 percent. So if you want to up the ABV by 1.3 percent in a 6 gallon recipe, you need to use 6 packs....if you wanted to up it by 2.6 you would use 12 packs....if you want to up it by .65% you use 2 packs.....etc.
  19. The RB is a Belgian IPA, coming in at 60 IBU and 8%. It is hopped with Warrior, Columbus, and Amarillo. I haven't had it in a long time, but here is how I would go about it. Take the Diablo IPA (IBU 70, ABV 5.5%). Steeping Grains - Brewers 2 row 1 pack, carapils 1 pack, crystal 60 1 pack. LME - 1 pale 2 cups of sugar (maybe 1.5....) Hops 2 Columbus and 2 Amarillo Yeast t-58 Steeping grains - follow Mr. Beer instructions. Depending on process, slowly stir in the LMEs, sugar, bring to a boil. 10 minute boil 2 columbus, 2 amarillo 5 minute boil 1 columbus, 1 amarillo Pitch with T-58 Make sure to ferment around 70 degrees....watch for overflow! Part of me wonders if it should go 2 pale LME and 1 cup sugar.....Like I said, I haven't had RB in a long time and cannot remember if it is more of a dry/drinkable belgian or more of a malty sweet IIPA style. Not sure how close to an RB this would get you, but it definitely gets you into the Belgian IPA territory. Probably darker than the RB though.
  20. Are you going to be using the LME and brown sugar as well? In a 2 gallon batch Bewitched HME is 5.5 ABV. Add 2 booster and you get 6.8 ABV. Now scaling that up it all stays the same. In a 6 gallon batch, using 3 Bewitched and 6 boosters you stay at 6.8. However, if you are going by the voodoo recipe Bewitched Amber HME 1 gold LME 1 cup brown sugar you get about 7.5 ABV (amber 5.5, 1 for the gold, 1 for the sugar.) Adding 2 booster to that gets you 8.8 ABV. Which is honestly what I would do, but I like brewing big, high ABV beers whenever I can. ---- Sorry, I did not read your post carefully. 2 packs booster (6 for the 6 gallon batch) does get you in the ABV range. However, in regards to flavor, brown sugar and booster have two really different effects. If you are trying to get the Voodoo taste you want to use the brown sugar.
  21. My motto is "if it's 10:00 AM here, it's probably 10:00 PM there." But alas, no...this was last night. My other bottle was outstanding. I guess I just need to be prepared! My little saison's are some tasty, strong brew. I had one big bottle and man...I was feeling it. Drinkable and high ABV......my brewing holy grail.
  22. Damn it. Just had this happen for the first time with one of my Saison's. Opened the bottle (plastic Mr. B 750) and that thing was like a volcano. The beer that was left was not looking too good. ....
  23. Wed August 9 - Added anejo soaked oak chips to La Otra Noche Friday August 11 - added fresh pack of Mr. B yeast to La Otra Noche
  24. The best "pumpkin" beer I've had is Epic's Imperial Pumpkin Porter aged in whiskey barrels. Thinking maybe the Lock, Stock and Barrel with pumpkin spices.....
  25. Yes. Thank you! Correct my original post.