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Everything posted by Shrike

  1. Shrike

    Wheat beer info

    "Wheat Beer Info"....?
  2. Shrike

    Extra time

    This will solve your problem. But yes, four weeks will be okay. But that's about the maximum you'd want the beer sitting on the trub.
  3. Shrike

    First taste

    No. It really, truly, actually, factually IS insignificant. As per my previous post, when two gallons of beer are bottled into 12 bottles and primed with two tsp sugar each, you're effectively getting an added ABV per bottle that is less than 1/10th of what the government allows a non-alcoholic beer to contain. I'll re-phrase: your priming sugar adds ABV that per bottle is equivalent to less than 10% of the maximum allowed of near bear. I'll re-re-phrase: would you pour a bottle of Sharp's Near Beer into one of your home brews and think "I've added a not-really-insignificant amount of alcohol to my brew?" No, you wouldn't. Firstly, because even though Sharp's contains 0.4% ABV, it tastes like garbage water. 😜 And secondly, because you'd recognize that the ABV gain you'd get from doing so would be very minimal and not worth consideration. That's pretty much the definition of insignificant.
  4. Shrike

    First taste

    24 tsp equals about 1/2 cup of sugar. Plug that into Qbrew and it'll tell you how much of an ABV boost you're getting for the entire batch. Divide that by the number of bottles and you'll see how much extra alcohol you're getting. As Rick said, it ain't much. ETA: I'm at my computer now, so I fired up QBrew. 1/2 cup of sugar is approximately 0.25lbs. Added to a MRB batch, this equates to 0.5% extra ABV. Dived by 12 bottles as per your example, that comes out to a whopping extra 0.04% ABV per bottle. In other words, negligible. To put it in perspective, in the USA, beer labelled "non-alcoholic" can actually contain up to 0.5% alcohol.
  5. Shrike

    Next brew

    Golden Empire and Thunder Bay are two of my favorites. For non-pm, I enjoy Long Play. It's a bitter one, though.
  6. Shrike

    Alcohol content

    Anything that contains fermentable sugars will raise it. Table sugar, malt extract, honey, Lucky Charms cereal, agave nectar, maple syrup...etc., etc. Each of those will have different impacts on the final taste of the beer, though. I recommend doing a web search, as there are too many variables to list. Additionally, you can just add booze to the LBK or to each individual bottle at bottling.
  7. Shrike

    Very Disappointed in Mr. Beer

    That's extremely atypical, IME. MRB has always had top-notch customer service. Even Wayne Gretzky missed the net on occasion. Doesn't mean he wasn't a great shooter.
  8. Shrike

    Timeline chart explanation

    Think of it this way: after bottling, the yeast are busy eating the priming sugar and producing CO2 to carbonate your beer. At 70*, this takes about three weeks. When that's over the conditioning period listed on the chart starts. Flavors meld and improve and the yeast, having no more sugars to eat, start eating other compounds and "cleaning up" your beer. In some beers this period can be quite short, such as IPAs and weizens. Others, especially high ABV brews, need more time. Now in reality, as Rick said conditioning is occurring simultaneously with carbonation. But to put this simply, MRB's chart has three weeks fermenting + three weeks carbonating + two weeks bottle conditioning = eight weeks, or two months as in the chart.
  9. Shrike

    Bottling wand

    I bottle over my open dishwasher door so that all drips go down the drain.
  10. Shrike

    Propping Up Your LBK - No Trubal

    The LBK is also good due to its manageable size. I'm pushing 50, with shoulder and back issues. Carrying an LBK is a lot easier than lugging around a five gallon bucket. If I want to brew a larger batch I can just split it between two LBKs. And yep, if I brew a batch I don't care for I'd rather have to choke down two gallons of it versus five. 😜
  11. What he said. Easy as can be.
  12. Shrike

    Risk vs Reward

    I usually go 10 minutes because at that point I can handle the hop sack after draining without it being too hot.
  13. Shrike

    Risk vs Reward

    I've never had an issue or infection when dry-hopping. My process: 1) Fill 4-cup Pyrex measuring cup halfway with water and nuke it until it's boiling. 2) Remove from microwave, toss in hop sack, put in tongs that keep the sack submerged, and kitchen scissors that I'll use to cut open the bag of hops. Let sit for 10 minutes. 3) Carefully pour out water, leaving everything in the measuring cup. 4) If you haven't already thoroughly washed your hands, do so. 5) Cut open the bag of hops with the sanitized scissors. Open hop sack (it may still be quite hot, so test it before getting all grabby), put in hops, tie off the sack, and trim away excess. You're done with the scissors. 6) Open the lid of the LBK. Use the tongs to carefully drop in the hop sack without causing a splash Put the lid back on. Total time the lid is off is less than 10 seconds.
  14. Shrike

    American larger kit came with 2 cans HME

    Good catch on the hops, Rick; I completely forgot about them.
  15. Shrike

    American larger kit came with 2 cans HME

    Yep, use both cans. Follow the instructions from the link MiniYoda shared above, use good sanitation, keep the wort temperature around 65 during fermentation, go a full three weeks, and you should be fine.
  16. Shrike

    Looking for an older Surly Dog IPA recipe

    Do you remember what the expiration date on the can of HME was? As HME gets older, it darkens a bit.
  17. Shrike

    Trying to brew again

    It's still good. The final product will be darker than would a batch made with "fresher" HME. You'll want to get new yeast, though. From the MRB folks:
  18. Shrike

    Bottling wand

    No, "Should I sanitize it?" is a silly question. "What's the easiest way to sanitize it?" is not.
  19. Shrike

    American Ale Ferment Time

    MRB's come a long way during your hiatus. They have some damned tasty recipes, especially some of the partial mash ones.
  20. Shrike

    American Ale Ferment Time

    Is there a date on that can? Go three weeks in the fermenter.
  21. Shrike

    Returning to Mr Beer

    I don't have an answer to that question. But for the peppers I ferment for my hot sauces I use a tbsp of the brine from a previous batch whenever I start a new one, just to jump start fermentation. I've never noticed any off flavors. But then again, it's only a small portion of the total brine which is usually two cups. And with that, I think we've fully hijacked this thread.
  22. Shrike

    First Beer

    Proper temperature control (mainly during those critical first few days of fermentation) is probably the single biggest factor that improved the quality of my beers. Here's a good thread on temperature control. I used the cooler/ice bottle method for a while until I realized this hobby had me hooked. Now I use the temperature-controlled mini fridge for fermenting. Oh, and welcome to the hobby, @CANbeernewbie!
  23. Shrike

    My first bottling

    This! My first time using a bottling wand was very frustrating...until I learned to insert it all the way, then just pull it out a little (Giggity). It worked like a charm after that. And welcome down the slippery slope.
  24. Shrike

    Light beer

    Yep, what BDawg said. It'll help you get your process down. And yes, it makes a rather bland beer. So just drop a shot of bourbon in it when you drink them. Alternatively, you could set it aside until you've got some brews under your belt and then use it as a base HME for an existing MRB recipe. Or you can try making your own. I brew the CAL (Classic American Light) several times a year. But I steep/mash some grains, add booster or LME, and use additional hops. I've made some pretty tasty beers that way.
  25. Shrike

    Returning to Mr Beer

    I perv mine all the time. It's mine, I can look at it all I want! 😜 😊