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Found 15 results

  1. I was looking for a basic list of ingredients for a beginner to start to brew without just "adding water".... like a list of easily available yeasts, then a list of available LME's and DME's, and a list of common, and then not so common hops... This would be like "mix and match"....(at your own peril, mind you) and it would be a great way for a new brewer to get their feet wet and experiment. I know there are tonnes of recipes, but this is a way to experiment and learn in the process..
  2. I'm VERY excited to announce that we now have 11 new hop varieties available (more to come)!! We also got more Mosaic in!! Amarillo = 8 – 11% - Aroma Amarillo has a flowery, grapefruit-like aroma with some tropical notes and a medium bittering value. A great dual-purpose hop for pale ales and IPAs. Apollo = 15 – 21% - Bittering Super high alpha variety from the Hopsteiner breeding program released in 2006. High alpha acid makes it a great bittering hop. Exhibits some citrus and pine notes when used at end of boil. Great bittering hop for pale ales and IPAs Chinook = 12 – 14% - Dual-purpose The high alpha acid content in Chinook hops make them an excellent variety for bittering, but with a piney aroma with notes of grapefruit and spice, it is also a great aroma and flavoring hop. They have a similar fruitiness to other Northwest US hop varieties like Cascade and Centennial, but not as intense. Great for American pale ales and IPAs. Summit = 17 – 19% - Bittering Summit is a very high alpha hop predominantly used for bittering, but it can also be used for bright, citrus aromas and flavors if used late in the boil. With notes of tangerine, orange, and grapefruit, these hops are great for American pale ales and IPAs. Cluster = 5.5 – 8.5% - Dual-purpose Floral, earthy, and slightly fruity, Cluster is one of the oldest hop varieties grown in the US. This dual-purpose hop can be used in many beer styles, but it is most often used in stouts, porters, barleywines, and historical beers. Crystal = 3.5 – 5.5% - Aroma Crystal hops are a very versatile low alpha acid variety that is great in light ales and lagers such as blondes, golden ales, and pale ales, but it can also be used in stouts and porters. It has a combination of woody, green, and some floral notes with some herb and spice character. Ekuanot = 13 – 15.5% - Dual-purpose Formerly called “Equinox”, this very unique hop strain exhibits the flavors and aromas of melon, berry, citrus, pine, and fresh peppers. It’s great in any beer that calls for a pronounced hop flavor such as pale ales, IPAs, sours, and some wheat beers. El Dorado = 14 – 16% - Dual-purpose While the high alpha acid content of this strain makes it great for bittering, the bold, fruity aroma is what explains this hop strain’s recent growth in popularity, especially among IPA lovers. With notes of citrus, apricots, watermelon, and even “Jolly Rancher” candy, this is a very fruity hop for very fruity IPAs, pale ales, and wheat beers. German Bavaria Mandarina = 7 – 10% - Aroma German Bavaria Mandarina is a fairly new hop variety bred in 2012 at the Hop research Institute in Hull, Germany. When used for flavor and aroma, it exhibits strong citrus notes of tangerine, orange, and a hint of pineapple. Fruity and citrusy, it’s a great variety for American IPAs, saisons, sour, and wheat beers. Simcoe = 12 – 14% - Dual-purpose Simcoe is a high alpha bittering hop, but is also used for aroma and flavor. When used late in the boil, this strain exhibits notes of pine and citrus. Great in IPAs or any beer calling for intense hop flavors aromas, or bitterness. Used in pale ales and IPAs. Sorachi Ace = 10 – 16% - Bittering Originally created in Japan in the 1980s for Sapporo Breweries, this unique hop strain is popular for its aromas and flavors of lemon, lime, and dill. It works well in lagers and pale ales, but has also found some recent popularity in IPAs, sours, and farmhouse ales. Get yours HERE!
  3. Tettnanger hops are back! Expect to see a few new recipes using these hops in the near future. Also, we have a limited amount of Mosaic in stock so get it while you can! Cheers! Tettnanger Pellet Hops Mosaic Pellet Hops
  4. I brewed my first batch using hops in a muslin sack and it wasn't until I was into it that I realized that I didn't know how to use them for sure. I cut off a portion and then added 1.5 oz of hops like I planned. I tied a knot in both ends and trimmed off the excess. It was then I realized that I had packed the sack fairly tight. How tightly packed should I make a sack when using it? Does it matter? Does anyone have a picture of what a properly prepared muslin sack looks like that they would be willing to post here?
  5. I was looking at the Powerful Patriot Ale recipe on the website and thinking about trying it since I currently have all the ingredients other than the 1 1/2oz Liberty Pellet Hops. However I do have 1/2 oz Glacier Hop Pellets left over from a brew last fall that have been in the freezer. I generally shy away from hoppy beer and really have no idea about the differences between different hops. Would this be an OK substitution?
  6. Hi. I'm ready to try a more elaborate brew. Well, for me anyway. I'm going to use 3 hop pellets in Muslin bags. The bittering hops go in when the pot begins to boil with my malt. After 50 mins I'm to add the Flavoring hops, then after 58 mins I'm to add the finishing hops. total time of boil is 1 hour. Then remove from heat and begin cool down in an ice bath. My question is this. After the boil, do I remove all the hop muslin bags right away? or do I let them steep until my wort comes down to 75-80 F? Thanks in advance Rick the Newbee
  7. From the album Yeast Farts

    I have 8 lbs of hops in my freezer. Ridiculous but true
  8. So, I have some experimental whole-cone hops I am going to make a SMaSH-type beer with, just using a known, clean-bittering hop for the main charge & using the unknown-AA% hops as flavour, aroma, whirlpool, and dry-hops. I will strain the boiled & whirlpool hops out before the wort is poured into the LBK, but I plan on using an entire ounce for the dry-hop, and while I am a "hops go commando"-type of guy, I am thinking a hop-sack might be best for whole-cone hops as if there are any commando floaters, it might clog the spigot, and if they all sink, they are definitely gonna clog up the spigot. Does anyone here have any experience dry-hopping in the LBK with whole-cone hops? If so, care to share your experience?
  9. Is there a recipe using no HME? Maybe mixing two different LMEs and tossing some hops in?? Looking to make a malty beer with around 15-25ibu
  10. Hi all, after watching the videos and reading the instructions I jumped in quickly and brewed a few batches of beer with the 2 LBKs I got as gifts recently. So a few questions I wanted to clarify to improve my brewing process in the future: 1. What is the proper fermenting period for beers? I tried per instructions for both batches - 7 or so days for the basic light LME and 10 or so days for the Bewitched Amber Ale LME. I let the Bewitched go an extra 2 days to boot. I figured it was better to wait a little longer, but how much longer? 2. How much sugar should be added when bottling? The Mr Beer instructions say 2.5 Tbs for the 1 liter bottles...so I estimated about 1 Tbs for the 12 oz bottles. But on several forums I've read people suggest 0.5 Tbs is sufficient for 12 oz bottles. If too much sugar is added during bottling, how will this effect the beer? 3. I got a bit more creative on the 2nd batch with Bewitched and added 3 sets of hops to it. I started a 60 minute boil with just 1 set of hops, then LME, then added a set of hops at the 30 and 45 minute marks. My wort smelled sufficiently hoppy when I poured it into the LBK to begin fermentation. But unfortunately when I bottled it, it did not smell hoppy at all. My first thought was I didn't use enough hops (a total of 1.5 oz of Cascade and Centennial). Is it still likely it will have some hop taste in a few weeks even if the aroma wasn't present during bottling? Or should I have let it ferment longer? Does longer fermentation affect hop smell/taste? 4. And related to #3, when adding hops is there a set of basic steps to follow? Hops then malt? Malt then hops? Both at the same time? I've watched youtube videos of people who boil the hops separately to make a "hop tea" and then add the LME after a 10-15 minute hop tea boil. I've seen videos of people boiling the LME and then adding the hops. I imagine it's "to each his own", but as a beginner it'd be nice to start with a basic hop recipe plan. Thanks in advance.
  11. So I just cracked my Turncoat IPL and I'm in love!!! I went to re-order and, to my surprise, it's gone. I had to google it and "We're sorry this product is currently unavailable." I can't believe that you're out of Northwest Pale Ale so it has to be the Zythos blend. Any timeframe? Because Papa needs a stockpile of this ready-to-drink in 4 weeks brew.
  12. Hi Guys/Gals The spring season is upon us soon and as a new Brewer I was wondering what some of you do to store the Brewing supplies. Yeast temperature storage I assume basement temps are ok for northern states, Should I put in the fridge for 80 + Ambient temps? Hops Storage, Many are storing in the fridge or freezer Pellets or plant longevity, Hmmm Pantry Items like Corn Sugar, Oat meals, Wheats and Barleys. HME/LME I have kept in the fridge based on expiration date and intended use time. Any Ideas.
  13. Hey guys just wanted to see your thoughts on what you use. Whole hops or hop pellets. I've done some googling and some of the data I see looks like whole hops are just better for dry hopping and hop aroma. What do you use and what are your thoughts? Also is there a specific hop season where a certain hop is the freshest at a specific time of the year?