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Propping Up Your LBK - No Trubal

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41 minutes ago, Marius said:

I will testify that both propping the keg while fermenting and cold crash worked beautifully. I used a piece of scrap lumber about 1inch thick, 6 inches long. That has worked great and no issue with sliding off. Only the last bottle got a little trub because I was being greedy. That won't be a problem after chilling that bottle when the time comes. Is it strange that the trub beer carbonated the fastest even though it was only half full? I fermented for three weeks. Still active yeast? Maybe time to get a hydrometer.

 

No, it's not strange, as it has a ton of yeast in it from the trub, only some of which is dead yeast.  Hopefully you put in 1/2 the sugar too...

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Asking for a friend. What would be the consequence of putting two carb drops and only 1/2 of the 740ml full? Explosion or over fizzing beer? Any solutions to such a scenario?

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Over fizzy beer.  PET bottles almost never give way, whereas a glass bottle could burst (a "bottle bomb").  Unlikely, but possible.

 

You could burp the bottle at 1 week by unscrewing the cap, listening to the gas come out, and then recap.


You could also pour it, let it sit in the fridge for 15 minutes, then drink it. 

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Bottled my Bewitched Amber today, and cold crashed for 2.5 days at 36F and got a cleaner yield as opposed to my Oktoberfest that I only cold crashed for 24 hrs.

Trub stayed put so much that even when I tilted the keg forwards quite a bit for that last PET bottle it never budged.

 

 

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Bottled in glass yesterday for first time. With the capping it took longer than filling the PET bottles. Tilting the LBK for the last bottle I could see the change in color in the bottling wand right as I got to the end, so marked that one for trub.

 

I cold crashed for 3 days, but was stopping and capping every 6 bottles. I'm thinking that extra time allowed the trub to soften and slide forward. Should or do you fill all your bottles first to avoid this, and then cap them?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Cato said:

Bottled in glass yesterday for first time. With the capping it took longer than filling the PET bottles. Tilting the LBK for the last bottle I could see the change in color in the bottling wand right as I got to the end, so marked that one for trub.

 

I cold crashed for 3 days, but was stopping and capping every 6 bottles. I'm thinking that extra time allowed the trub to soften and slide forward. Should or do you fill all your bottles first to avoid this, and then cap them?

 

 

I bottle and cover them with foil, then cap. My last bottle is always a clear 12 oz. Coke bottle.

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I do 6 - 8 bottles, cap them, then do 6 or 8 more. 

 

However, I batch prime from a slimline, so there is no trub to move around.  

 

If you use a bottling wand, and you cold crashed, I can't imagine that the trub would soften much in the 15 minutes you're bottling.  Make sure you leave it propped up while you're bottling, and only tilt it for the last 1 or 2 bottles.

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3 hours ago, RickBeer said:

I do 6 - 8 bottles, cap them, then do 6 or 8 more. 

 

However, I batch prime from a slimline, so there is no trub to move around.  

 

If you use a bottling wand, and you cold crashed, I can't imagine that the trub would soften much in the 15 minutes you're bottling.  Make sure you leave it propped up while you're bottling, and only tilt it for the last 1 or 2 bottles.

Yes, did have it propped up and only tilted for last couple. Pic shows the hop sack in the trub and it has slid forward just a bit. No biggie, I'll  either add another day of cold crashing or maybe I should consider the hop sack gained some weight and I should have removed it. Lol, very likely I need to just bottle and cap faster! 

20180317_143119.jpg

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6 hours ago, D Kristof said:

I bottle and cover them with foil, then cap. My last bottle is always a clear 12 oz. Coke bottle.

why do you use aluminum foil?

I have a system i have one of those pepsi trays that holds bottles i got from a gas station just ask, many times theyll give you a couple just to get them out of their way, I set all my bottles up in the tray and then put all my carb drops in and only then do i take the keg out this way it is bottle after bottle and there is no time for it to warm up and yes u am using a wand now. The ray also come super useful in conditioning storage

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8 hours ago, Timelordjason said:

why do you use aluminum foil?

I have a system i have one of those pepsi trays that holds bottles i got from a gas station just ask, many times theyll give you a couple just to get them out of their way, I set all my bottles up in the tray and then put all my carb drops in and only then do i take the keg out this way it is bottle after bottle and there is no time for it to warm up and yes u am using a wand now. The ray also come super useful in conditioning storage

Not only do I live in a 175 year old house, we have cats. I use foil caps over each bottle to keep anything airborne out. The foil caps are only large enough to cover the top of the bottles and snug down the sides to hold them in place.  I sanitize and cover. I remove the cap to put the conditioning/carb tablets in and recover. After setting the stage I get the LBK and bottling wand set up and begin bottling. I remove the foil cap, fill then recover with the foil cap. Doing it this way also shortens the length of time my bottling wand is exposed. The filled, foil covered, and still uncapped bottles are placed into cardboard 6 pack cartons. As I cap, I pull out a bottle, remove the foil cover, cap then set it back into the six pack carton. Most 1/2 liter bottles will also still fit into the 6 pack pockets. 

 

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On 2018-03-18 at 8:07 AM, Cato said:

Bottled in glass yesterday for first time. With the capping it took longer than filling the PET bottles. Tilting the LBK for the last bottle I could see the change in color in the bottling wand right as I got to the end, so marked that one for trub.

 

I cold crashed for 3 days, but was stopping and capping every 6 bottles. I'm thinking that extra time allowed the trub to soften and slide forward. Should or do you fill all your bottles first to avoid this, and then cap them?

 

 

Bottling bucket and batch prime. A very nice way to go. 🍻 

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I like your idea.  I'm guessing the spigot is on the higher side, causing the trub to settle towards the back portion of the LBK?  Then, when you bottle, you can gently tip the keg upright to get all the beer out without disturbing the trub?  I'm asking because I'm just now brewing only my 2nd batch and I saw the scum (trub) along the entire bottom of my keg when I bottled the 1st batch.

 

Ever try adding more water to the keg, (about an extra qt. or two beyond the top fill line)?  It has puzzled me that the LBK, at 2.0 gallons, will only fill 10.5+- bottles and not an even 12.

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2 minutes ago, Mic Todd said:

I like your idea.  I'm guessing the spigot is on the higher side, causing the trub to settle towards the back portion of the LBK?  Then, when you bottle, you can gently tip the keg upright to get all the beer out without disturbing the trub?  I'm asking because I'm just now brewing only my 2nd batch and I saw the scum (trub) along the entire bottom of my keg when I bottled the 1st batch.

 

Ever try adding more water to the keg, (about an extra qt. or two beyond the top fill line)?  It has puzzled me that the LBK, at 2.0 gallons, will only fill 10.5+- bottles and not an even 12.

 

A Mr. Beer batch brews 2.13 gallons of beer.  If you added an extra quart or two, you'd create a beer that is diluted in taste and ABV.  It was designed to fill eight 1-liter bottles.  It was then changed to be sixteen 1/2 liter bottles.  Now it comes with eleven 740ml bottles (never came with twelve).  All approximately the same capacity, given that you're supposed to leave space in the neck.

 

 

 

 

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13 minutes ago, RickBeer said:

 

A Mr. Beer batch brews 2.13 gallons of beer.  If you added an extra quart or two, you'd create a beer that is diluted in taste and ABV.  It was designed to fill eight 1-liter bottles.  It was then changed to be sixteen 1/2 liter bottles.  Now it comes with eleven 740ml bottles (never came with twelve).  All approximately the same capacity, given that you're supposed to leave space in the neck. 

 

 

 

 

I understand.  But the 25 oz bottles Mr Beer includes with the kit (wish I could buy them in glass!) are perfect for bottling, with each bottle yielding 24 oz (or two 12 oz beers) each.  An even 12 bottles would yield an even 24 servings @ 12 oz each.  One full case.   I understand the recipes are formulated to the exact amount for the capacity (as designed) but why didn't they design the keg a little larger OR the recipe kits a little bigger to yield the extra amount?  IF I were to add another quart or two of water, I'd also add more LME, etc.  to compensate.  But unless I learn of others who have tried that successively, I'll probably not try it.  Thanks for your reply~

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Because the Mr. Beer system was designed to make 2.13 gallons of beer and fit into eight 1-liter bottles.  

 

Of course you can add water and LME.  Then you'd need to figure out what hops to add otherwise you would lower the IBUs of the recipe.


Or, you could brew enough batches that the unused bottles add up to another batch.

 

#FirstWorldProblems 

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When I'm using an LBK, I usually figure it for 2.25 gal. In Q brew and at best I'll yield 22 12oz bottles. I have no issues as long as it's say under 6.5% ABV. Course I'll lose approx. .13 or more to trub loss.

 

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LOL, I guess I just like things even, as in even number of bottles to = one case.  No other good reason.  What's lost here is that I love this simple system of brewing and this certainly isn't a knock on Mr. Beer.  I was thinking, initially, it might be due to differences between Imperial and US measurements.  btw, do you know if there are similar 25 oz bottles like the kit's, but in glass instead of plastic, for sale anywhere?  I bought some swing-top glass bottles but I was never able to locate any of the 24 oz size.  Mr. Beer should offer some compatible with their kits.

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On 2/24/2018 at 12:33 PM, Cato said:

Bottled my Bewitched Amber today, and cold crashed for 2.5 days at 36F and got a cleaner yield as opposed to my Oktoberfest that I only cold crashed for 24 hrs.

Trub stayed put so much that even when I tilted the keg forwards quite a bit for that last PET bottle it never budged. 

 

 

Great idea!  I may try this on my next bottling which comes up in about 2 more weeks.  How did you cold-crash the beer, in an ice cooler?

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3 minutes ago, RickBeer said:

You read the link in my signature that tells you that 😉

Ahhh, got ya!  It seems to me this might make more sense than propping the keg up on an angle during fermentation, tho I can see the merit in that too.

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You do both.  Prop it up during fermentation, then keep it propped up during cold crashing.  Then keep it propped up during bottling, until you're ready to get out the last bits before the nasty trub hits the spigot.

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Gotchya again.  I'm in my 2nd week on this batch, so I'll try propping the keg up on the next batch.  But I will try the cold crashing when this one is ready to bottle.  The wife is gonna have to make room in our fridge for a couple days...

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