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jasbo

Recommendations for "early drinkers"?

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I have my first batch in bottles (Betwitched Amber) and my second in the LBK (1776 Ale). Now I'm trying to figure out what No. 3 is.

 

Are there Mr. Beer kits that are typically ready for drinking in a shorter time frame than others? I'm hoping to get some stuff into the pipeline that helps me survive the wait for the longer-developing stuff.

 

I'm assuming the simpler kits/recipes are going to be drinkable earlier, along with lower ABV beers. I'm open to recipes that add hops and maybe LME (like the 1776 Ale I just brewed), but I'm not interested in kits with Booster packs. ABV, by itself, doesn't do much for me. And I'm wanting to wait a few months for partial mash recipes

 

So I'm looking at:

Diablo IPA, straight up

Anything with an Oktoberfest base

Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner

and other light summery brews.

 

Any of these -- or any other favorites -- strike you as something that can be brewed in May and consumed in July?

 

Jim

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4 hours ago, jasbo said:

I have my first batch in bottles (Betwitched Amber) and my second in the LBK (1776 Ale). Now I'm trying to figure out what No. 3 is.

 

Are there Mr. Beer kits that are typically ready for drinking in a shorter time frame than others? I'm hoping to get some stuff into the pipeline that helps me survive the wait for the longer-developing stuff.

 

I'm assuming the simpler kits/recipes are going to be drinkable earlier, along with lower ABV beers. I'm open to recipes that add hops and maybe LME (like the 1776 Ale I just brewed), but I'm not interested in kits with Booster packs. ABV, by itself, doesn't do much for me. And I'm wanting to wait a few months for partial mash recipes

 

So I'm looking at:

Diablo IPA, straight up

Anything with an Oktoberfest base

Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner

and other light summery brews.

 

Any of these -- or any other favorites -- strike you as something that can be brewed in May and consumer in July?

 

Jim

 

Here is my (completely unfounded, lame) opinion:

If you want to be able to drink your beer faster......in order of importance......

#1 - minimize off flavors from pitching too warm, fermenting too warm. Pitch your beers cooler rather than warmer, ferment cooler rather than warmer. Pitching wrong/fermenting wrong takes longer to condition out, if ever.

#2 - use purchased yeast - 05......t-58.....whatever. The Mr. Beer yeast is good....in fact it is awesome....but if your goal is drink it sooner rather than later then you cannot go wrong with a purchased yeast. When in doubt 05 is the answer.

#3 - less booster, more malt. When in doubt, more malt. Use another LME. Use two more LMEs. The extra malt for wort is good here. But it will not help if you miss #1!!!! Nothing but time helps missing #1!!!!

#4 - more hops, not less. Use more hops! Late in the boil (5 minute or flame out or dry). These will not overcome messing up on 1....but if you get 1 right, more hops help because the aroma can mask off flavors. (I am not sure if boiling for taste does the same thing. I am working on this.)

#4 - steeping grains for freshness. More steeping grains, less time. That is my experience. (If you get 1, 3, and then 2 right!)  Adding grains does nothing but good things. Even if all you do is add those simple brewers grains and carapils.

#5 - don't look to brew clean. You want a crisp, clean, clear lager......speed is not your friend. If you want to drink it faster, brew a beer that can accept an off flavor. Or two, or three. Right now I am early drinking an Imperial Porter that has hints of banana. You know what? Who the hell cares???? This is not a lager. This is a possibly 8+ % monster that exploded in the fermentation fridge. A bit of banana? This beer wears it like an accessory scarf.

--

Keep in mind that all this is a balance. And in the end, the honest answer might just be brew more and wait longer.

 

But in my experience, if you want to drink you beer faster, look at those above for and see what you can work out. It might be pretty easy to come up with a good beer you can easily drink at the 5 week conditioning mark, if not earlier.

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2 hours ago, Stroomer420 said:

wheat beers and IPA's are typically drank earlier then others....

 

Yep.  I'll be brewing a weizen in about a week that I plan on starting to drink a month after I bottle it.

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ditto on wheat beers.  they are most tasty young.  my ipa's tend toward high gravity so they would need more time... but wheats are great young.

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Base refills that follow 3-4 should be fine.  Worse case maybe 3-6.   Only recipes will lots of adjuncts (fruit) or Booster might take longer.

 

Remember, only refrigerate  (for at least 3 days) what you are ready to drink, leaving the rest to continue conditioning.

 

When I refrigerate a bottle, I write the date on the label.  Every Weds I restock, if needed.  When I first started brewing, I would rotate out the newest bottles, i.e. the 4 week ones, and put in six week ones.  I would cross out the refrigerated date and write "-2 weeks" on the label, and put them at the back of the inventory. Upon returning to room temperature, they start conditioning again.  The "-2 weeks" tells me that it's been conditioning since bottling date (which is on the label) minus 2 weeks that it was in the frig.  By the time I got to the back of the box, it was plenty old enough.  I don't rotate stock any more because I brew enough that when a brew is done it's almost always not needed for a while.

 

To solve the problem, simply build your post-57583-0-41459300-1416930320_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for all the replies. The wheat beer sounds like a winner, and all the general guidance is appreciated.

 

I'm realizing, though, that I should probably try first to work with what's on hand, rather than bringing in new extract cans when I have some already.

 

I have:

-- a fresh Aztec Cerveza and an Aztec and CAL that are both a few months past their prime.

-- one half-ounce of U.S. Saaz pellets, two half-ounce packets of Cascade pellets

-- one Pale LME softpack, two Smooth LME softpacks.

-- various ale yeasts, mostly fresh enough to use.

 

So I'm thinking I could use the Aztec with U.S. Saaz and an LME (kind of a poor man's El Gordito) or the CAL with both Cascade packets and the Pale LME. Probably sounds like I'm going all Mad Scientist on you, but I am trying to look at the characteristics of various hops, etc., and keep in mind fairly low ABV for early drinking potential. Any thoughts?

 

Jim

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1 hour ago, jasbo said:

Thanks for all the replies. The wheat beer sounds like a winner, and all the general guidance is appreciated.

 

I'm realizing, though, that I should probably try first to work with what's on hand, rather than bringing in new extract cans when I have some already.

 

I have:

-- a fresh Aztec Cerveza and an Aztec and CAL that are both a few months past their prime.

-- one half-ounce of U.S. Saaz pellets, two half-ounce packets of Cascade pellets

-- one Pale LME softpack, two Smooth LME softpacks.

-- various ale yeasts, mostly fresh enough to use.

 

So I'm thinking I could use the Aztec with U.S. Saaz and an LME (kind of a poor man's El Gordito) or the CAL with both Cascade packets and the Pale LME. Probably sounds like I'm going all Mad Scientist on you, but I am trying to look at the characteristics of various hops, etc., and keep in mind fairly low ABV for early drinking potential. Any thoughts?

 

Jim

 

I think those would both work well and if you keep your fermentation temps good they should be ready to drink sooner rather than later.

 

And your not even close to mad scientist yet!

 

You want to get #madscientist -

one smooth, one plale LME.....do 20 minute hop boil with one cascade, a 10 minute hop with the other cascade, and a five minute with the saaz

after boil add both of the azteca HMEs.

 

That my friend, is going mad scientist AND chasing ABV. Both of which I excel at.

 

This would not be a beer you can drink sooner rather than later.

 

Now you plan is certainly better.

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a low abv esb or English pale shouldn't need prolonged conditioning.  4 weeks tops.

 

Czech pilsners made with lager yeast benefit from a month in really cold temps after carbing. 'lager' means basically to put away or store.

 

Belgian blonde probably wouldn't need tons of conditioning.

 

experiment. sample your batches over time. try one at 2 weeks of carbing and no condition time. then another a week later. then another a week after that til you've gone through them all.  you'll see for yourself which need more time and which are fine early.

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Personally, I am partial to porters. Mr. Beer's American Porter is a good one. After two weeks in the bottle you can begin drinking it. If you want to turn it into a teaching moment, drink one bottle each week. Jot down a few notes about each bottle. Not only will you enjoy the beer, you will see how the flavors mellow, meld, interweaving as it bottle conditions. 

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The Baltic Porter seasonal also was very good at 2 weeks (yes, the heretical 2) but better later.

 

CAL with Pale LME/DME (or booster) and 0.5 oz Cascade or Citra is good. 4 weeks OK but better at 8 and I like Citra better.

 

Wheat beers I like with the booster better than the LME/DME. I don't like the wheat beers malty. Add orange zest and coriander, or other citrus combinations, but only a little, you can overwhelm the subtle tastes from the yeasts (another reason not to over malt it). If I was going to malt it I would add the "Golden " - that is 50/50- wheat and barley malts I believe. They can be OK in a few weeks but I like them best at 2-3 months.

 

As said above. The easy thing is to add a lot of hops. I would add 0.5 oz at flameout and another 0.5 dry hop 7 days before bottling. I guess if you REALLY like hops make it 1 ox each addition but it will  (IMHO)be real hoppy then. I would start light and work up. 1 oz total is reasonable and drinkable. 0,5 oz total is a good accent without being "in your face". If you are doig this then, adding more LME/DME is good also to make a better balance.

 

Anyway that is my 2c.

 

 

 

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