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cconstantine307

Hazy IPA dry-hopping tips?

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Longtime follower of the forums, first time poster...

 

Anyways, I'm brewing a copycat (it's out of stock) American Resolution Hazy IPA and have a few questions. I want to brew this with Galaxy and Citra (and maybe Cashmere) and would like to add them as a dry-hop addition. I'm not exactly sure which days I should add the hops to the LBK and in what combination/order? Any help is appreciated. 

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You want to have a 21 day fermentation, with nothing added any later than day 14.  

 

This recipe has hops being added on day 3, 8, and 13.  The later, the stronger the aroma.  

 

I would tell you that IF we did 10 different ways of dry hopping, and then did a blind taste test, there isn't a person alive that you could identify them.

 

I would add all of them at day 13, but that's me.  I'm actually dry hopping on Friday a Black IPA, with all of them (2 hops) going it at once.

 

Make sure you sanitize a dish, a hop sack, a string, then put the hops in the sack and tie it with the string and gently lower it in to the fermenter.

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16 minutes ago, RickBeer said:

You want to have a 21 day fermentation, with nothing added any later than day 14.  

 

This recipe has hops being added on day 3, 8, and 13.  The later, the stronger the aroma.  

 

I would tell you that IF we did 10 different ways of dry hopping, and then did a blind taste test, there isn't a person alive that you could identify them.

 

I would add all of them at day 13, but that's me.  I'm actually dry hopping on Friday a Black IPA, with all of them (2 hops) going it at once.

 

Make sure you sanitize a dish, a hop sack, a string, then put the hops in the sack and tie it with the string and gently lower it in to the fermenter.

 

Great! Thanks for the help! One other quick question related to this same recipe. The original Mr. Beer recipe came with Imperial Barbarian Yeast. My local home brew store has the Imperial Juicy Yeast that I'm thinking of using. Any experience with this type of yeast (5 fl oz) in a Mr. Beer recipe?

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I've never used anything but dry yeast in my beers.  I suggest you read the descriptions on Imperial's website:

 

https://www.imperialyeast.com/organic-yeast-strains/

 

A04 Barbarian

Ready to attack your IPA, Barbarian produces stone fruit esters that work great when paired with citrus hops. Barbarian will give you what you need for an exceptionally balanced IPA.

Temp: 62-70F, 16-21C // Flocculation: Medium // Attenuation: 73-74%

A38 Juice

Juicy. Fruity. Juice is an amazing strain for East Coast IPAs. The ester profile of Juice brings out the aromas and flavors of the new school hops and creates a beer that is greater than the sum of its parts. Keep an eye on this strain, it likes to move to the top of fermentation and will climb out the fermenter if too full.

Temp: 64-74F, 18-23C // Flocculation: Medium // Attenuation: 72-76%

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I like the sound of the Juice one more for what I'm brewing, but I was wondering more on the amount of yeast to use. The package is 5 fl oz and says it is enough for a 5 gallon batch. Should I pitch the whole package (original Mr. Beer recipe says use whole package) or just half since the LBK is 2 gallons? Thank again for the help!

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59 minutes ago, cconstantine307 said:

I like the sound of the Juice one more for what I'm brewing, but I was wondering more on the amount of yeast to use. The package is 5 fl oz and says it is enough for a 5 gallon batch. Should I pitch the whole package (original Mr. Beer recipe says use whole package) or just half since the LBK is 2 gallons? Thank again for the help!

Pitch the whole pack.  When the beer is finished you can decant the yeast cake into a sanitized mason jar or just put another beer right on the yeast cake in your LBK.  If you brew an IPA you should make sure to reuse the yeast in an IPA or another hoppy beer.

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The whole point of dry hopping to get a hazy beer is to do it during active fermentation to get your hops to have a “bio transformation “. The idea is the interaction between the yeast and the hops turns certain hop oils into more desirable ones. You can pretty much only get the desired result from dry hopping during active fermentation 

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37 minutes ago, Creeps McLane said:

The whole point of dry hopping to get a hazy beer is to do it during active fermentation to get your hops to have a “bio transformation “. The idea is the interaction between the yeast and the hops turns certain hop oils into more desirable ones. You can pretty much only get the desired result from dry hopping during active fermentation 

#WhatHeSaid!

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23 hours ago, kedogn said:

Can you elaborate on this blanket statement?  For clarification?

 

Sure.  Dry yeast you can sanitize package, cut with sanitized scissors, use 1/2, fold and refrigerate for a short period in a sanitized ziplock, and you might be fine (not that a new brewer should try this).  The number of cells in a dry yeast package (11, 11.5 grams) is more than needed for a 5 gallon batch.  It is easy to pour the contents onto a sanitary surface on a scale (coffee filter) and measure out half.  This would only be for a packet designed for 5 gallons, used in a 2 or 2.5 gallon batch.

 

Liquid yeast pouches need to be shaken and kneaded to make it homogeneous, then sanitized, then poured into the wort.  Measuring out half of the contents, assuming they are mixed correctly for an equal distribution of cells (unless you have a microscope), then saving half in a sanitary environment, is not advised.  Harvesting the yeast cake can of course be done, but not by a novice brewer.  And that's not using half the packet.

 

That's why I said a half pouch of liquid yeast should not be saved.

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4 hours ago, RickBeer said:

That's why I said a half pouch of liquid yeast should not be saved.

Thank you.  I asked because you often make blanket, not complete thought, statements that can be confusing to newbies/youngens.  I just didn’t want someone seeing that previous statement thinking they couldn’t save yeast after a fermentation just because it was from liquid yeast. 

 

Thanks again! 

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42 minutes ago, kedogn said:

Thank you.  I asked because you often make blanket, not complete thought, statements that can be confusing to newbies/youngens.  I just didn’t want someone seeing that previous statement thinking they couldn’t save yeast after a fermentation just because it was from liquid yeast. 

 

Thanks again! 

 

No problem.  Big difference between "saving yeast" (which to most means harvesting yeast from a just completed fermentation) and pitching half a pouch as he asked about.  I shouldn't have used the word "save" because it's confusing.  

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8 hours ago, RickBeer said:

Liquid yeast pouches need to be shaken and kneaded to make it humongous, then sanitized, then poured into the wort.  Measuring out half of the contents, assuming they are mixed correctly for an equal distribution of cells (unless you have a microscope), then saving half in a sanitary environment, is not advised.  Harvesting the yeast cake can of course be done, but not by a novice brewer.  And that's not using half the packet.

 

That's why I said a half pouch of liquid yeast should not be saved.

 

I am a new brewer and I am trying to save 1/2 of my 11g dry packet of Safale US-05 by doing just about what you mentioned, sans the ziplock.  I will try to use the remaining yeast on my next batch in a few weeks.  After reading your post (and others) I think I will avoid purchasing liquid yeasts if they come in a quantity to do 5 or more gallons.  It'd be a shame to just throw away the bottom half because it's not very 'save-able'. 

 

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4 minutes ago, MRB Tim said:

This is all great stuff, if you guys keep being so helpful my job's gonna be in danger, but..

 

 

I know you meant homogeneous but still, lol

Lol, not to mention another first soon to be added to the modern dictionary. A new way to spell scissors according to Rick- "sizzors". Add it to your auto correct. ;)

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9 minutes ago, Mic Todd said:

 

I am a new brewer and I am trying to save 1/2 of my 11g dry packet of Safale US-05 by doing just about what you mentioned, sans the ziplock.  I will try to use the remaining yeast on my next batch in a few weeks.  After reading your post (and others) I think I will avoid purchasing liquid yeasts if they come in a quantity to do 5 or more gallons.  It'd be a shame to just throw away the bottom half because it's not very 'save-able'. 

 

I guess I feel better about over pitching and toss the whole thing in. I figure maybe it gives me some latitude in case I've inadvertently shocked some of my yeasties by being a little off temp wise in my pitch. 

Not so sure how much weight that theory carries, but so far so good.

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1 hour ago, Mic Todd said:

 

I am a new brewer and I am trying to save 1/2 of my 11g dry packet of Safale US-05 by doing just about what you mentioned, sans the ziplock.  I will try to use the remaining yeast on my next batch in a few weeks.  After reading your post (and others) I think I will avoid purchasing liquid yeasts if they come in a quantity to do 5 or more gallons.  It'd be a shame to just throw away the bottom half because it's not very 'save-able'. 

 

 

 

Like Cato said, use the whole packet.  There's no reason to throw away perfectly viable yeast.  Put them to work belching CO2 and pissing Ethyl Alcohol!  😀

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3 minutes ago, Jdub said:

just pitch it bro

 

Which does bring up a question (if I can be serious for a moment).  Can one open the keg top (briefly!) a few days after the first pitch and pitch some more?  Ie, pitch the rest of the packet.  I ask because there is just a small part of me wondering if I pitched enough yeast since I didn't have a scale to weigh the packet before I pitched and only guessed on how much of the 11g's  I pitched.  I mean, some do open the lid to add hops before the fermentation is complete, why not more yeast?

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2 hours ago, Cato said:

I guess I feel better about over pitching and toss the whole thing in

 

I do it this way. Yeast is usually pretty cheap. Every now and again I'll bring some home to try throwing it in a sourdough starter and see what it does, but usually I don't bother. 

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