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Cato

Induction cooktop

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Anybody using one of these for brewing?

I could use a slightly larger kettle but most are too tall for BIAB on my gas cooktop in the kitchen, cause of the microwave above it.

I can go to the garage but eBIAB set ups with controllers really mount up quickly.

A nice portable induction that could hold a 7.5-10 gal kettle would be great. I looked at some 3500watt commercial ones but they all get terrible reviews on Amazon, for breaking down.

 

For the high end ones I'd be back in the price range of an eBIAB single vessel unit with controller, kettle, and recirc pump.

 

 

 

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I use one for doing 30 minute DME hop stand batches. It's worked nicely for me so far. The temperature varies about 8-10 degrees (148-158 F), but since I'm not doing a mash the temperature accuracy isn't critical. It's turned out some really nice DME IPA's and my brew day (for an LBK sized batch) is about an hour from setup to fermenter including cleanup. 

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1 hour ago, Cato said:

Anybody using one of these for brewing?

I could use a slightly larger kettle but most are too tall for BIAB on my gas cooktop in the kitchen, cause of the microwave above it.

I can go to the garage but eBIAB set ups with controllers really mount up quickly.

A nice portable induction that could hold a 7.5-10 gal kettle would be great. I looked at some 3500watt commercial ones but they all get terrible reviews on Amazon, for breaking down.

 

For the high end ones I'd be back in the price range of an eBIAB single vessel unit with controller, kettle, and recirc pump.

 

 

 

My buddy used to use one. Super nice. I was always jealous of it honestly. But as far as holding a mash temp, it was a little difficult. Not to mention the thing was 220v so he had to run a dedicated line. 

 

Where do you live? Im just wondering why a propane burner isnt on your list of options. Its nice brewing inside. I will say that...

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12 minutes ago, Creeps McLane said:

My buddy used to use one. Super nice. I was always jealous of it honestly. But as far as holding a mash temp, it was a little difficult. Not to mention the thing was 220v so he had to run a dedicated line. 

 

Where do you live? Im just wondering why a propane burner isnt on your list of options. Its nice brewing inside. I will say that...

I'm in Virginia Beach. I'd rather brew inside than get bugs in my beer! I don't how it is in WI , but just the smell of wort when I'm running the wort chiller in the garage with the door open starts drawing flies.

I did briefly consider a propane burner as it'd be the cheapest option, but I think I should be able to find another option, lol, which may mean just staying with brewing in the kitchen.

 

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8 hours ago, Cato said:

I'm in Virginia Beach. I'd rather brew inside than get bugs in my beer! I don't how it is in WI , but just the smell of wort when I'm running the wort chiller in the garage with the door open starts drawing flies.

I did briefly consider a propane burner as it'd be the cheapest option, but I think I should be able to find another option, lol, which may mean just staying with brewing in the kitchen.

 

for just mashing i would highly recommend checking out making a mash tun from a home depot water cooler, either 5 or 10 gallons. very easy to make and if you watch any AG brewing videos on youtube, many brewers use them for a mash tun. there's a good john palmer video out there where he shows how to use it. you pre-heat it with hot water and it holds temp amazing for an hour. only down side is you obviously can't heat it, but you can add more hot water. only used it 5 times, but i love it so far.

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7 hours ago, Jdub said:

for just mashing i would highly recommend checking out making a mash tun from a home depot water cooler, either 5 or 10 gallons. very easy to make and if you watch any AG brewing videos on youtube, many brewers use them for a mash tun. there's a good john palmer video out there where he shows how to use it. you pre-heat it with hot water and it holds temp amazing for an hour. only down side is you obviously can't heat it, but you can add more hot water. only used it 5 times, but i love it so far.

I use a 5 gallon one for mashing and have been for 2 years now.  I didn't even fit it with a stainless braid.  I use a laundry bag and batch sparge.  Piece of cake to clean out the tun since the grain stays in the bag.  I did fit the cooler with a ball valve to make it easier to drain but that is the only modification.  I preheated it the first couple of times but now I just put the temperature of it and my grain in Beersmith and it calculates the strike temp of the water.  I hit my mash temps easily and hold a loss of 1 or 2 degrees during a 60 minute mash.  I do wrap the entire cooler in 2 bath towels while the mash is occurring to hold in as much heat as possible.

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1 hour ago, BDawg62 said:

I use a 5 gallon one for mashing and have been for 2 years now.  I didn't even fit it with a stainless braid.  I use a laundry bag and batch sparge.  Piece of cake to clean out the tun since the grain stays in the bag.  I did fit the cooler with a ball valve to make it easier to drain but that is the only modification.  I preheated it the first couple of times but now I just put the temperature of it and my grain in Beersmith and it calculates the strike temp of the water.  I hit my mash temps easily and hold a loss of 1 or 2 degrees during a 60 minute mash.  I do wrap the entire cooler in 2 bath towels while the mash is occurring to hold in as much heat as possible.

that's excellent. ya i did put a bazooka screen in mine. and clean up? turn it upside down into a trash bag and then just rinse it out. takes 1 minute. wish i knew someone with some chickens. i could hook them up!

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Those cooler mash tuns sound like they work well but I also needed more boil capacity. So ordered a Anvil 7.5 gal. kettle which should suffice for my BIAB batches and still work on my gas cooktop as its only half inch taller than my other kettle.

 

Thanks all for the input.

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I find with my gas stove that the amount of liquid in the pot is the issue.  Haven't tested the limits, but 3.5 gallons of wort takes 45 minutes to come to a boil, and my boil isn't very vigorous.  And that is straddling two burners, with maybe 60% of the flame of each on the pot.  If a pot was wider and really straddle 2 burners, it would perhaps do better.  Or if the GE Profile cooktop put out more BTUs, have no idea how many it does put out.

 

My brief research on induction burners last Spring showed that you need 220 volts for decent power, and most people don't have a 20 volt plug anywhere but a laundry room (we have a gas dryer and no 220 plug).

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1 hour ago, RickBeer said:

I find with my gas stove that the amount of liquid in the pot is the issue.  Haven't tested the limits, but 3.5 gallons of wort takes 45 minutes to come to a boil, and my boil isn't very vigorous.  And that is straddling two burners, with maybe 60% of the flame of each on the pot.  If a pot was wider and really straddle 2 burners, it would perhaps do better.  Or if the GE Profile cooktop put out more BTUs, have no idea how many it does put out.

 

My brief research on induction burners last Spring showed that you need 220 volts for decent power, and most people don't have a 20 volt plug anywhere but a laundry room (we have a gas dryer and no 220 plug).

Agreed. I'm fortunate with this newer model gas cooktop to have one of those large output "turbo" burners for large stockpots, so it'll reach strike and boil temps fairly quickly at 3/4 output. Height above the kettle has been my limiting factor for BIAB.

 

I've got a 220v 20 amp outlet for my table saw right by my work bench in the garage, which would be perfect for an induction burner that could handle heavy stockpots weight but those are commercial grade and the lower priced ones in $300 range are apparently crap, so you have to take a leap into $600+ minimum.

 

I decided to wait for technology to improve and price to decrease on either induction or eBIAB. 

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@RickBeer I just noticed you're doing BIAB. I like it a lot for it's convenience but I'm still in a learning curve on how long my mash should be and my best sparging method. I've had to add some LME to a couple batches to hit my OG numbers and a couple  hit within a couple points OG but exceeded what I expected on FG but yeast selection likely caused that.

 

Going to use two kettles for my next batch as my grain bill is too large for full volume. Will divide 4.5 gal water into one and 3.5 into another that will get the grain bag after the first has mashed and then after sparging combine the two (by pump)for the boil. I'm looking forward to trying that.

 

I read that a lot of people doing BIAB are double crushing their grains. I may try that next time.

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I went from extract brewing to BIAB. 2  batches in the Spring, then didn't brew again until this Fall, did 6 batches without double crushing or adjusting for lower efficiency.  Dumb.  Converted 1 recipe from 7 barrels, should have lowered efficiency when I converted.  Was rushing to get beer brewed for upcoming family event, had I bought only a few batches I could have adjusted remaining.  

 

Agree on double crushing, I have to do that next time.  I also have to account for lower efficiency by buying X% more of all grains.  I sparged 2 of my 6 batches but that resulted in more than the 2.5 gallons I wanted to end up with, no idea (because I didn't measure) the impact on gravity pre-boil.  Can't imagine it improved it much, sparging will yield a lower gravity wort.  Many people who do BIAB don't sparge at all, they just squeeze the bag.

 

 

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1 hour ago, RickBeer said:

I went from extract brewing to BIAB. 2  batches in the Spring, then didn't brew again until this Fall, did 6 batches without double crushing or adjusting for lower efficiency.  Dumb.  Converted 1 recipe from 7 barrels, should have lowered efficiency when I converted.  Was rushing to get beer brewed for upcoming family event, had I bought only a few batches I could have adjusted remaining.  

 

Agree on double crushing, I have to do that next time.  I also have to account for lower efficiency by buying X% more of all grains.  I sparged 2 of my 6 batches but that resulted in more than the 2.5 gallons I wanted to end up with, no idea (because I didn't measure) the impact on gravity pre-boil.  Can't imagine it improved it much, sparging will yield a lower gravity wort.  Many people who do BIAB don't sparge at all, they just squeeze the bag.

 

 

I've been squeezing the bag, plus running my recipe thru Qbrew and bumping the grains when possible or adding some LME . I think the double crush will make a decent amount of difference. I sparge only with water that I would have to use to make up volume lost by grain absorption. EzBiab calculator will show that in the equation pop up. 

Lol, I haven't done half bad at all with Qbrew figuring my batches by just entering a bit bigger batch than I actually intend to ferment.

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On 10/23/2018 at 4:50 PM, RickBeer said:

I went from extract brewing to BIAB. 2  batches in the Spring, then didn't brew again until this Fall, did 6 batches without double crushing or adjusting for lower efficiency.  Dumb.  Converted 1 recipe from 7 barrels, should have lowered efficiency when I converted.  Was rushing to get beer brewed for upcoming family event, had I bought only a few batches I could have adjusted remaining.  

 

Agree on double crushing, I have to do that next time.  I also have to account for lower efficiency by buying X% more of all grains.  I sparged 2 of my 6 batches but that resulted in more than the 2.5 gallons I wanted to end up with, no idea (because I didn't measure) the impact on gravity pre-boil.  Can't imagine it improved it much, sparging will yield a lower gravity wort.  Many people who do BIAB don't sparge at all, they just squeeze the bag.

 

 

Lol, was browsing your local LHBS this morning comparing prices on grain mills and found they had a good sale going on and free shipping. Better deal than my supplier, so got one coming. A bit of expense load on the front end but it'll be worth it to me. My local LHBS is prices their stuff 25% higher than online suppliers.  Between AIH and Maryland Homebrew, most everything I need ships free.

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