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    • Bonsai & Brew
      Brewing energy consumption

      By Bonsai & Brew · Posted

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    • RickBeer
      Brewing energy consumption

      By RickBeer · Posted

      As we approach retirement this summer, and I think about my future home brewing setup, there are a lot of options.  We plan on relocating to a warmer climate, and therefore there are big unknowns as to what type of setup I can fit.  Currently I do BIAB on our stovetop natural gas stove, and can only do 2.75 gallon batches due to the ability to reach a boil.  In retirement, I'll probably want to do 5 gallon batches.   Where we're looking at retiring to it's very likely that we'll have propane - for heating, possibly for cooking.  Natural gas is rare there.  And of course I can go electric.   We're very focused on our impact on the environment, as well as ensuring that I understand the cost of any option, including energy (I don't today, no idea how much natural gas I use in the brewing process).     Where we're moving to the electricity is created by water power (dam) and nuclear, so it's very "clean energy".  Also happens to be cheaper than here in Michigan where it's natural gas-created electricity.     Wondering if anyone that has used an electric system has hooked up a Kilowatt or other measuring device to know how many kWh they are using during brewing?   Or, anyone with a propane burner that has somewhat accurately determined the amount of propane they are using?  I'll likely have a large propane tank for the house that I can utilize.   Thanks for any input.     I'll also be moving from well water to city water, so I'll a) need to get it analyzed and b) no longer have "free" water.  I plan on utilizing lake water for cooling via my wort chiller if possible.  All sprinkler systems are powered by lake water, figure it will be easy to setup a spigot for this.
    • RickBeer
      Beer Is Nothing But Foam

      By RickBeer · Posted

      Great advice.   The proper way to pour a beer is 1/2 down the side, then the remaining 1/2 down the center, to create the head.  Of course for some beers they are too carbed to accomplish the 2nd half of that.   Hefeweizen is intended to be more highly carbonated than other beers.  But you used the same carb drops, so...   Be careful on the opening and letting the bottle sit.  I've had brews where if I let it sit more than 10 - 20 seconds, the bottle contents start rising up and the bottle overflows.  
    • LClark1049
      Beer Is Nothing But Foam

      By LClark1049 · Posted

      The beer does taste fine and after a while the head does go down, I will try waiting a while and tilting the glass when I pour.
    • LClark1049
      Beer Is Nothing But Foam

      By LClark1049 · Posted

      I used the standard Mr. Beer carbonation drops, I used 1 per bottle.  As far as storage, during both fermentation and after bottling, they were stored between 69 - 72 degrees  Fahrenheit.  Fridge temp is about 36 degrees.

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