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  2. Cold crashing is a simple method that accomplishes 2 purposes. First, it allows the trub (layer of dead yeast and byproducts on the bottom of the LBK) to compact. Why is that good? Because more beer comes out of the spigot before the trub SLOWLY makes its way to the spigot. Second, cold crashing allows the beer to clarify, as particles fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom. I personally don't care about clear beer, but I do want to get every drop out of the LBK. If you're making a wheat beer, the second goal probably isn't something you want to have happen. How do you cold crash? Well, it's very difficult so I'll lay out the steps below. Please study them carefully before undertaking this difficult task. 1) When your beer is ready to bottle (determined by waiting 3 weeks and or testing with a hydrometer and getting matching readings 48 hours apart), pick up the LBK. 2) Walk over to your refrigerator. 3) Open the refrigerator door (or have someone else do it so you don't drop the LBK). 4) Put the LBK inside the refrigerator. 5) Close the refrigerator door. 6) Leave it in the refrigerator for 24 - 72 hours (it will thicken in 24 hours, takes 72 to settle the particles). On bottling day, prep everything and remove the LBK only when you're ready to bottle - you don't want to warm it up and undo all the difficult work that you accomplished. Questions: 1) Does cold crashing kill the yeast? - No, it just puts them to sleep. 2) Does cold crashing impact how my beer will carbonate? - No. Yeast wake up and it carbonates fine. Remember to angle your LBK during fermentation, and cold crashing (and bottling) to keep the trub away from the spigot. See this post: http://community.mrbeer.com/topic/32908-propping-up-your-lbk-no-trubal/ First picture below shows the inside of my LBK after bottling my latest brew. I have about an ounce, if that, of liquid left in there with the trub, which you can see in the 2nd picture (a little milky at that point because I sloshed it taking the pic). I had 5 gallons of liquid split between two LBKs, and that gave me 600 ounces of beer or 93.8% of what I started with. The most I've ever gotten is 614 ounces.
  3. Due to technical issues with the Mr. Beer site, this post was deleted by mistake in May 2019 (originally posted January 31, 2015). With the miracles of modern technology, RickBeer has recreated the information verbatim. Should Mr. Beer be able to recover the original post with all the questions and replies, I will get this one removed. If you think this is cold crashing, please immediately sell your kit on Craigslist and exit the hobby. To find out what cold crashing is, read the next post. No beer was harmed in the posting of this picture.
  4. Last week
  5. Yep! Filling out an application right now for head brewmaster at a mountain resort brewery near me. I'm on the "relevant experience" section right now. How come my title hasn't been changed from "in Training" to "Guru"?
  6. @MRB-Rick, can you help?
  7. My wife informed me tonight that the bowling alley a few blocks away was renovated and they have grain belt on tap!!! Are you kidding me? My dad and I will be hitting that up asap

  8. I e-mailed them two weeks ago no such luck on a answer.
  9. Well, I'll tell you what I just did today: I split a 40 pint (5 gal) Muntons can into 2 equal parts, and made my Lime-Pepper Cervasa. I added 1 full lb of Light DME, I full cup of cane sugar, 2.5 oz. malto-dextrin, zest from one lime and hop sack of 6 medium Anaheim peppers, chopped and blanched. I'll let you know how it turns out when it's finished. More to your question, I have split a can of 6 gal Coopers into two batches in the LBK and both batches turned out fine. Just be sure you do as the others have said and leave enough headspace for the krausen'. In other words, you get a slightly denser beer than the recipe would be if made to the full 6 gals in a larger fermenter. Good luck - do let us know how things turn out!
  10. That's precisely the point I was flailing at but not making contact with. I don't understand the willingness to make that first sale and accept the drop off of so many after the initial disappointment. There are many opportunities and resources being left for discovery only by the few who persevere.
  11. Congrats, it is always a good feeling when all of the hard work put into a brew reaps rewards.
  12. My all-grain English Pale Ale 1-gallon Kit I brewed in March is ready. And the results of the first bottle are: Success! Wow, I can't believe I'm doing this. First goodness with the MRB 1776 and now Success with the no-name brand EPA. This beer is very pale, smooooth, hoppy, and well-carbonated. I'm a happy brewer right now. Thank you to all of you that helped out when I was doing this batch - @RickBeer, @Jdub, @BDawg62, @Nickfixit, @Shrike, @Bonsai & Brew, @D Kristof, and @StretchNM (that's me). Yes, I went through the old thread to find everybody who gave advice and encouragement. Thank you. Despite the sloppy instructions that came with the Kit, we made it work. Pretty dang cool. I would definitely brew this beer again. And again. I guess I'm going to have to break out my pilsner glass for this brew. I know, my logo and labeling needs work. But that's about as professional as I need to be ((( )))
  13. That was kinda my thought too, but they do specify different ranges in some recipes. What might work would be a "Default Temp Range" and a "Better" temp range both given.
  14. It is on the list and in the spreadsheet. I just brewed Rocket's Red Glare, and easy brew.
  15. Beyond a few true lager recipes, Mr. Beer isn't going to have recipes specifying temp ranges that require additional equipment. They do sell some additional equipment, but no beginning brewer is going to do that.
  16. In that case, the American Lager may provide a better base as you suggest, maybe it depends how bitter you like it though. Does this look good? Kentucky Common: American Lager HME, PM 8 oz 6 row, 4 oz Flaked corn, 1 oz Cara 60, 1 oz Carafa II, 1 oz Victory. Hops - 0.25 oz ea Mt Hood and Cluster, 10 min boil. Safale F-97 yeast. Then I get 1.045 Final Gravity 1.009 ABV 4.76% IBU 29.42 SRM 12.48 Mash pH
  17. Feel free to bitter this style up to 30 IBUs, per the BJCP. That might actually improve this beer from "good" to "very good" (looking at the scoresheets that I just received back from a local comp.) 🍻
  18. Yeah, I looked at the American Lager but the IBUs are so high already (17) that I can't put much hops in without over bittering it beyond 19 I figure. So I picked a lower IBU HME to let me get more Fuggles and Goldings character (I used Brewer's Friend calc.) I don't see Kentucky Common in the Archives but of course it might be called something totally different. Target: IBU 19 SRM 12-14 ABV 4.5 - 5% Cheat sheet ABV SRM IBUs American light 3.50 2 11 Canadian Blonde 3.50 2 13 Aztec 3.50 2 13 American Lager 3.50 3 17 Bavarian Weissbier 3.50 3 19 Oktoberfest Lager 3.50 10 21 Bohemian Czech Pilsner 3.50 2 27 American Ale 3.50 3 36 American Porter 3.50 18 41 St Patricks Stout 3.50 40 50
  19. I might start by partial-mashing the American Lager HME with 0.5 lb 6-row, 0.25 flaked corn, and the Victory/Crystal. For bittering, I'll need Qbrew to estimate IBUs, but I need to check Mr. Beer's recipe archive to see if they already have a Kentucky Common recipe.
  20. I did, I wrote to customer service 😎. They would be right - it will be beer, but it could be better beer. However, I think if they specify some other temp range that requires other than just sitting the LBK in the kitchen, they will discourage sales.
  21. @Nickfixit, you don't dare question those temperatures. They're playing the "we only claimed it would be beer" game. Disappointing.
  22. If you were going to build this on a MR Beer HME - what would you suggest? I was thinking American Light or Canadian Blonde would take more IBU additions for the character Cluster/Mt Hood Hop additions and the PM grains. So maybe the American Light plus a pack of Smooth LME (Victory and Crystal sub.), 1 oz 6 row + 4 oz Flaked Corn + 1.5 oz Carafa -II PM, then the hops. 0.5 oz Cluster 15 min and 0.25 oz Mt Hood 5 min (and take them out? or not?) gets pretty close, ABV 4.83, IBUs 19.3, SRM 13.2. But I am not sure how the flavor will be.
  23. 👍 bonsai gets me. That’s a very rare thing
  24. Talking of fermentation temps , I was looking at the "Craft Week" Recipes Mr. B has this week, and noticed that all of them say ferment between 70 and76 deg. Seems a little warm for some of them. I am thinking it is just a boilerplate number not catered to the recipe/yeasts - which is a bit disappointing. I am especially intrigued by the Pennsylvania Lager, but I am thinking even for S-04, 70-76 may be a bit high especially as Fermentis says "ideally 15-20°C (59-68°F)." And this is the Wort temp not ambient. I think I will just keep it at my cellar temp of 62-64 ambient.
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