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  1. Last week
  2. Yes, I think you're right, @Jdub. @RickBeer 's advice is sound, indeed.
  3. Drink beer (or two) rinse well with hot water and dish soap. Before brewing sanitize with oxygen cleaner. Same for plastic bottles.
  4. Glad to see someone else using the finger in the bottle trick. If I don't do this, I end up with a ring where the top of the beer was. You know there is a certain poster on here (not naming him but his last name rhymes with deer) who thinks I'm imagining "ring around the bottle."
  5. Earlier
  6. I used Centennial 60 min for my bittering and then Hallertau Blanc 15min. Turned out really well using that combo. I've never used Tettnang, so I know nothing on that hops characteristics.
  7. hey @Cato i have an altbier grainbill loaded in BS. what kind of hops did you use and what schedule during boil? curious? i have hallertau blanc (60 min) and tettnang (15 min) in my recipe that i have yet to brew. wyeast german ale yeast.
  8. Since I've got two pales conditioning and one amber/dark , Witch's Flight PM, about to bottle, I checked my grains and I have enough for a 3 gal batch of Das Altbier, so that will be next and then while ordering the yeast for it today I also ordered some Galaxy hops, (never tried Galaxy), and Mangrove Jack's M44 yeast . I'll do an LBK pale ale that I can fit in the fridge with the Alt. There's my plan for the next 3-4 weeks.
  9. i think the advice is sound. identify your target before you shoot. decide what you want to brew, find a recipe for it online or other, scale it to your batch size with brewing software or do some math. then go get your ingredients and brew it up. many here have brewed with random ingredients before, but that is probably after brewing many batches and kind of know what to expect. you'll probably make better beer. just my free advice.
  10. I hear you @RickBeer, but is 2 pounds of 2-row and 3 oz of Crystal 40 not about right for a 1-gallon batch, and especially if I've had it in mind to re-try a similar but weaker recipe for some time? I mean for a stumbling around, slobbering, on-the-spot decision, it's probably a pretty good 1-gal recipe. Right? I sometimes will write or speak in a somewhat self-deprecating manner 50% because it's sort of true, 50% because it's kind of fun, and the remaining 50% because it can be humorous. And throw in the last 23% to masochism. Awhile back I already had plans to, at some point in the future, recreate my only all-grain batch, and I knew I wanted to increase the amount of grain. But I procrastinated ordering it or buying it until one day in a shop, where I tripped and fell over a salesperson (I should've tied my shoes before I went in). Anyway, I began telling him of this lofty dream of recreating a recipe when he tells me my 2 pounds of 2-row (as opposed to the original 1.5 pounds) is actually a relatively common, basic recipe for pale ale. I wanted it darker, so he suggested adding 4 ounces of Crystal 30, which they were out of, so we substituted 3 oz of Crystal 40. And just like that, I realized my life-long dream of re-creating an original recipe yet, creating one at the same time! A Master Brewer I became, at that very moment. Still though, as you infer, I must learn to sit down, think more, become more studious, plan my actions, and then take action on my plans.
  11. I'd suggest that in the future you sit down and plan what you want to do. For example, brew a 2.5 gallon batch in an LBK (which will hold 2.5 gallons just fine). Or a 2 gallon batch. Then find a recipe that you like online (there are thousands of extract recipes), convert it to the size you're going to brew, come up with a list of ingredients, and then go buy the ingredients (or order online). I come up with my recipes and the list of ingredients, and because my store is online also I cost them out. I then go and pull my grains for recipe #1, crush them, and seal the bag, labeling it. Then I go do #2. And so on. When I check out, if the bill is different I have them review what they entered wrong... Just buying stuff while at a store is backwards.
  12. I agree with you both, @Jdub and @Creeps McLane. Sometimes I don't think straight, so when I bought the grain at the supply store, well, that was one of those times. I was just browsing and marveling and slobbering around at that place that it was a spur of the moment idea. I was thinking that first 1-gallon batch tasted so good ("thin" though it was) 'what if I duplicated it but added this much grain and that much of that'. I should have got maybe 4 pounds of 2-Row with 6oz of Crystal 40 or something, and just tried that for 2 full gallons. I really want to get a 7 gallon bucket at ritebrew and brew some larger batches, I just haven't pulled the trigger yet. (Oh but I did order and receive a new LBK a while back, so now I could do 4 gallons. It's standing by like a good soldier, all shined up and ready when I want it)
  13. I agree. I brewed 10 gallons this weekend, 5 gallons AG wouldve taken just as much time, 2 gallons wouldve taken just as much time. Brew more now so you dont have to brew later. Split yeasts, add fruit, experiment and youll learn twice as fast
  14. @StretchNM if you don't mind me asking, why do you want to brew 1 gallon batches? to each his own, but it's no more effort to fill up your LBK (2 gallons) and have more beer.to drink. especially if you really like it....know what i mean? i used to think that the LBK was way too much beer, and now I'm questioning the concept of 4 gallons. go figure.
  15. Don't overthink it @StretchNM! You boil your 2 gallons for an hour and it cools and you have 1.5 gal left then your boil off rate is .5 gal per hour. Now that you have that approx. rate per hour then next time you want to make a recipe that requires an hour boiling grains, LME, whatever then you know that you need to add an extra .5 gal to your kettle to compensate the loss. You can always boil longer if you over compensated, or if you find that you boiled off too much you can add some water back. I find it handy in Beersmith to check my gravity post boil before I pump into the fermenter. Beersmith will usually say something like my post boil should be 1.046 and so if I find that I'm at 1.033 I might dissolve a .5-.75 lb of LME into the kettle and take another read before pumping into the fermenter. Of course if I'm on the money with BS or slightly above the post boil gravity I have no worry and proceed to pumping into the fermenter. At least use Qbrew to fill in those blanks if you're not using BS yet. Qbrew will be pretty close with you losses to boil off , hop additions, and trub loss.
  16. No Nick, the Kit didn't give any data. And.... My OG reading was 022 and I forgot to take FG reading before pitching my yeast. Even without the FG, I knew it would be low ABV% because of the initial reading. Yes "thin" is a very good descriptor.
  17. I guess everyone has a different method to do it. Mine is I do a print out of my recipe from Beersmith and I write my notes on the paper print out like OG and FG and any amounts that I might have changed, LOL, like when I meant to add 8oz of LME and it came out too fast so 1lb. went in. Then I transfer those into my spreadsheet that I keep on the computer and in Google Drive. I like having that hard copy print out and keep 3 hard copy folders, one with current brews, one with recipes that I might want to tackle, and the third is informational and technical stuff that I run across and print out but seldom delve into. That being said I still chuckle when I clean out the old mail stuff from the counter in the kitchen and find stuff scribbled on a junk mail envelope like FG 1.012.
  18. Community Members 288 236 posts Report post Posted Saturday at 01:13 PM "A while back I brewed a little 1-gallon all-grain Kit. It was weak and impotent (which really taxed my ego). It consisted of 1-1/2 lb of 2-row and 1/2 ounce of Kent Goldings hops." Don't feel bad, this was a pretty light brew anyway. a quick scan on recipe builder puts it a little over 4% ABV even with the right amount of water. So it will taste pretty thin. Your new amounts look like just under 6% so a big difference. Do you remember what ABV did the kit claim?
  19. To better understand "boil-off rate", please tell me if I have this right: - Boil 2 gallons for one hour - Let cool and measure remainder - Subtract remainder from 2 (gallons) (to get the loss) - Divide the loss by 2 (to bring a 2-gal measurement to 1-gal) - That is the boil-off rate Correct?
  20. So here's a reinforcement of this principle. Last week I tested my Apricot Wheat FG, a week after adding the 2nd can of apricots. It was right on. So I cold crashed it. And, apparently forgot to write down the reading, or the temperature. Not a big deal, I know it was in the 1.012 - 1.014 range, and would have been 64 degrees. But, this reinforces WRITING EVERYTHING DOWN.
  21. Drink beer, rinse out well, using small finger to remove the ring of bits stick inside the neck. At bottling, clean deposits inside with soft, bottlebrush, sanitize with Mr B sanitizer. Make sure to invert bottles to get caps and threads wet (and caps of 12 oz bottles)
  22. my bottle washing method.....drink beer, rinse out bottle pretty good. put in box in garage. when i feel like washing 50 or so bottles, i use oxy clean free, hot water, a bottle brush and a bottle tree. not that bad. i must say that i haven't washed bottles in a while now.
  23. My bottle washing method: drink beer recycle bottle brew beer buy new bottles its more money but a lot less work
  24. I too use the unscented dish soap and rinse and wash each bottle as I drink it and leave it filled with the soapy water. Every 3 days or so I'll empty the 6-8 bottles on the kitchen counter and rinse them a couple times with hot water and then store them on my bottle tree. I've never used a bottle brush or had any residue remaining. I think my SS brewbuckets with the racking arm produce a bit less trub than my LBK's, but I'll have to check that out to verify.
  25. Me too. Except we rinse good, then fill with water UNTIL we are ready to wash at the end of the day. More efficient than washing 1 at a time, and nothing dries in bottle.
  26. I just wash them as I use them, with hot water and a bit of unscented dish soap. Shake well, refill with hot water, repeat a few times. If there's any persistent crud I hit it with a bottle brush. Rinse and put on rack to dry.
  27. My method has been after draining a bottle of brew, to VERY aggressively multi-rinse the bottle, let dry and store for next batch. Sanitize prior to refilling. Repeat a few times. Then periodically using oxygen properly mixed in a gallon jug, half fill each bottle with warm mix and scrub interior with a bottle brush, rinse thoroughly and let drain dry. A real pain in the butt... Is there a better way that is just as effective?
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