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  2. Just going to drop this here. Apologizing in advance to those who don't allow FB to sell ther personal information. The article/study says 30 breweries. In reality it's 40+ https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10156467147156852&id=97098306851 https://smartasset.com/checking-account/best-cities-for-beer-drinkers-2019?cjevent=18d97c581d5611ea809600f30a24060c&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=cj__falc_test_1&utm_content=Skimlinks&utm_term=Follow+This+Link
  3. Yesterday
  4. I don't regret buying the ball lock conversion parts for the sanke tap. They are money when you have to swap between corneys and sankes. I lucked out and got a 5 and 7 gal sanke with my garage sale kegerator purchase.
  5. @Big Sarge im going to buy a sanke tap and i can't wait. the breweries around me sell smaller kegs of great brew that could fit in my keezer. i'll have some craft commercial and home brew on tap!
  6. A. @Creeps McLane I''m on my way over to have a beer with you so you can prove your theory. have my glass ready please. only be about 18 hours and i'll be there. B. 2 cents from limited kegging experience, but enough to have an opinion. using the keg in the fridge with the picnic tap, I would carb for a week at 12 psi. then, when ready to serve, i would turn down the psi's to 6 or 7, bleed the pressure from the PRV and serve perfectly with the picnic tap, which is very short. fast forward to a keezer, or kegerator. I am using 10' lines not b/c some "guy at the store" said so, but i called my LHBS and talked with the guys who know what they're talking about and they told me 10' line is the way to go. i haven't been adjusting the carbing pressure in the keezer (still at 12 or so) and it pours like a charm, like at a bar. keezer inkbird set at 36 deg.
  7. I saw them and figured I would try without, in case they were an unnecessary waste of money. Hindsight is 20/20 of course.
  8. That's the rubber gasket that fits between the swivel nut and ball lock connector?
  9. No teflon, you should just need a swivel nut washer.
  10. I'm good on gas, solidifying my no leaks claim. It was a little concerning after carbing and serving only three legs, but I have screwed around with so many different pressures with associated bleeding and filling, I think it's ok-ish. The ball lock disconnect brand is unknown, more hand me downs. I'll make note of your preference, as I want to order more down the line during expansion. The connections at the ball lock connector end of both lines are barbs with swivel (screw on?) nuts. I've discovered leaks on the beer line (quite obvious) and used thread tape to fix them. They seem pretty well off, although I should check them again. I'm trending towards figuring it out, although I feel so lost.
  11. Yes. Until I can get a new regulator, I'm going to adjust as necessary and record my results along the way. I need to get right before adding a manifold and another shank. For reals.
  12. Have you ran out of gas at an obnoxious pace? What kind of ball lock disconnects are you using? I have all CM Becker cuz theyre the best. Ive had keg king ones before and they leak and then they dont, then they do, then they dont. Theyre in the landfill now. Good riddance. I know you’ve used starsan to check your connections but is everything a barb fitting or is there some janky pipe to flare to barb or something going on? And swivel connections? Bump those things and theyll start leaking immediately. Tighten a nut 6’ from that connection and itll leak. anywho, are you more lost or are you more close to your goal?
  13. @Big Sarge ok. To be honest, im confused. Reading that it sounds like all the odds are against you. You have no reliable equipment, but then you say “youre close”. Are you really or are you just trying to be optimistic?
  14. I check at initial hookup. I could probably stand to check throughout the duration, at least with the corny and its gaskets.
  15. @Big Sarge just another thought. Did you test the keg itself for leaks? I always set the psi to 20 to set the o ring but sometimes it still leaks later in life. That could explain why the headspace co2 is less and why its not reaching the correct carb level. ill go back to reading your above post now
  16. So all of the damn calculators said that 10' is what I needed, except on basic one that made a lot of sense. It said 5.5' so I played it safe and went 6.5' just in case. I think the pour at 6-10 psi is a decent rate. It's not too fast and not too slow. So I think. I've seen the violent pour and this just isn't it. I'm really concerned about the set and forget at 10 psi resulting in no carb and not enough pressure to push through the 10' line. My first worry was the sanke keg (my first time using), the sanke tap converted with ball lock connectors, and leaks. I ruled out the gas leaks with heavy spraying on StarSan all over that mofo. I'd love to get a new regulator, but I want to use limited money more effectively. I know, that's a poor answer. I also just spent money on an Inkbird for the fermentation fridge and can't justify a second one for the kegerator. I'm unfortunately relying on the fridge thermostat (without any verification besides temp readings of beer). I have a picnic tap that was handed down with the 3 gallon corny, but I don't trust it. It has a black spot midway through the line. I think it's 3' long. I've thought about giving it a try though. I've graduated from the massive head, thankfully. That bad boy was 90% head in the glass at one point. I think I'm close on line length and hopefully pressure. I want to try kicking a carbonation pressure of something like 15 psi for a week, dropping it to around 8 psi serving, and seeing how that does. On the next batch.
  17. I just went back and looked at a don osborn video for his kegerator. Looks like in his fridge he has about 5’ lines and in the comments he says he keeps his regulator set at 10. i dont really think 18” would make yours pour significantly slower at 10 psi than his. A keg at 32 degrees for two weeks at 10 psi should be carbed, it shouldve been carbed in half that time. Do you have any other gas guage? To test the regulator out on? When i first set up my keezer i was also freezing lines. I just turned it up a hair. Also, my johnson controller is horse shit. I set it at 35 and im freezing lines. Its set at 40 i think and the keezer temps at 35. Thats pretty important too. I keep a thermometer in the compressor step part of the keezer at all times. If youre freezing lines, you gotta be less than 30 degrees cuz beer freezes at a lower temp. Also, perhaps theres chunks of frozen ice in the line blocking it? Do you have a spare picnic tap? Hook it up and pour a beer maybe? to reduce foam- lower temp or change line length right? Id have to read ricks link to see if youd have to increase or decrease the line length. too violent of a pour?- Possibly overcarbed or decrease serving/ carbing pressure. Prob disconnect gas altogether until it mellows out Massive head but still flat?- over carbed. From my experience, an uncarbed beer will yield no head at all. 2 weeks in the keezer at 10 psi and not carbed- equipment failure. Has to be. No other reason i can explain that other than your keezer is room temp.
  18. I think the goal of balancing is to have your carbing pressure equal your serving pressure. That ensures consistent target carbonation is maintained throughout the life of the keg. I'm usually looking at about 10 psi for carbing, keeping it easy at 2.5 volumes CO2. My beer wasn't pouring well at that pressure, though. That's why I've been chasing the beer line length. I don't want long lines in the fridge (6.5 ft currently, tried 10 ft previously based on online calculators), I just want a good pour. Temperature is known and was (before the freezing lines) pretty consistent. When I set the carbing pressure for my first batch, sat there at two weeks on gas, at temperature, the pour came out slow and the beer was very flat. I hate that I can't verify proper operation of my regulator. It's a Kegco regulator, but still a hand me down.
  19. Current pour. Head forms during the pour, usually just over an inch once I cut the tap off. Of curious note, it eventually settles with those cascading nitro-esque bubbles. A thin head persists throughout, but the carbonation is very low. I can barely observe a few bubbles rising occasionally. The carbonation mouthfeel is a light tingle, no bite. I'm not looking for overcarbed, knowing that we historically start out with carbonation on the high end when bottle/batch priming our homebrew with sugar. I hone my senses in on just the carbonation, trying to make sure I'm not misreading it.
  20. Wonderful. To add to my frustrations, came home to frozen beer lines. They thankfully thawed quickly which is good, because I'm thirsty.
  21. Last week
  22. I don't think you're crazy. As a matter of fact, is love to invite you over for some beer while we discuss the craziness going on in my system. I'll chime in with more later, once I get home. Thanks for starting the new thread!
  23. @Bonsai & Brew @Big Sarge @RickBeer Here we go, new thread. i just went down stairs and measured everything temp of keezer- 35 co2 setting on regulator- 7 psi length of beverage line- 24” volumes of CO2- 2.32 i poured a beer at 7 psi, inch head on a sour that quickly disappeared. Beers tastes perfect. So actually, my serving psi is my carbing psi. Think im crazy? Come over and have a beer with me and I’ll prove it. No foaming issues, beer tastes great, pours at a full speed, sometimes I dial it down to 5 on the regulator but 90% of the time I don’t touch the thing. I fully understand why you’d want more resistance in the line, but for whatever black hole of space I live in, 2’ of hose is perfect. My buddy always uses picnic taps at his house. They’re probably 5’ hoses I’m guessing. 10’ seems obnoxious
  24. Goingfrom memory, wasn't Anthony a middle age high school English teacher? I hope he didn't get into trouble (he didn't seem the type. How many wild English teachers have you known ) or suffer a health issue. Hoping somebody lurking or Anthony himself can enlighten us.
  25. Just read this. Guess we all must live and learn.
  26. Transferred the stout to the secondary and cleaned everything up. Built a compressor shelf for the kegerator, optimizing space for multiple kegs. Now I just need a manifold and another shank to add a tap. I don't know that I'll get to brewing the next batch this weekend. The equipment is available but time is at a premium. Too many damn social obligations.
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