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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/30/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    1) You can't look at powder and analyze what it is. If you bought bulk powder, it should have a name, and then you know what you own. Laundry detergent looks the same also... 2) Mr. Beer's sanitizer can be stored, for a week, in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Then it needs to come to room temp to be used. If you just want to clean with it (not sanitize), then you could store it longer, but the oxygen content is gone at that point. 3) Sanitizing a hop sack, or a measuring cup, or such can be done with a pot of boiling water. Or a cup of boiling water in a microwave. 4) You should NOT store things with liquid sanitizer for periods of time. StarSan, an acid, will eat through things like chrome. 5) I use a batch of StarSan for several months, stored in a bucket with a lid. 6) Mr. Beer sanitizer, made at double strength, can in fact be used for cleaning. If you read the packet, it says "No-Rinse Cleanser". There are products that are similar to this, i.e. One Step and Easy Clean. LD Carlson, who makes Easy Clean, told me that it's the same as One Step, but can't be labeled as a sanitizer because they haven't gone through the process ($$$) to get it labeled as such. 7) The dishwasher can be used for sanitizing, but it's not recommended. Bottles don't get properly washed inside, and rinse agents aren't good for beer bottles. Utensils would be fine going through a sanitizing cycle, which is not the same as heated dry. You could also bake metal utensils in your oven to sanitize them. But that's all pretty silly, when dipping them in sanitizer is a one and done thing. I would not store anything for a period of time and then consider it sanitized.
  2. 2 points
    I understand that, but Mr Beer said in full strength, their product can be used as a cleaner and, well, it works very well. You just have to rinse it well afterwards, you know, before sanitizing in my case, using starsan edit: what rick said
  3. 1 point
    Id say they’re the same as far as grain bill. Id say 50/50 pilsner and wheat, noble bittering hop, and a hefe yeast would yeild a wonderful hefe
  4. 1 point
    Documented a few times on the forum. Do NOT use a brush on the plastic bottles. After pouring your beer, rinse the trub out of the bottle. Fill the bottle with warm (not hot) water to the top, and let it sit while you enjoy your beer. Dump out some of the water, and then put your hand over the top (or the cap) and shake vigorously. Dump it all out, do this for all your bottles. Fill the first bottle 1/2 - 3/4 way with warm water, add a drop of unscented dish soap, and shake vigorously. Pour this solution into the next bottle. Rinse the first bottle several times. Repeat this step for each bottle, reusing the soapy water over and over. Add more water if you need to.
  5. 1 point
    next time you're at total wine, pick up a single Paulaner Hefeweizen, or another brand. See what you think. I 1st tried one in the early 90's and was like, whoa.
  6. 1 point
    I've learned a lot reading your posts and several others going back years....and yes, rick, yours too..hehehe
  7. 1 point
    yes, I'm being corrected on that. I've been in this hobby for three years, and STILL learn something new almost every day.
  8. 1 point
    The Mr Beer sanitizer, I use full strength as a cleaner to clean my LBK after bottling. For sanitizing, I use StarSan and I will keep that around for a couple weeks without issues. I wouldn't keep the Mr B sanitizer around after mixing it. Two different products, two different ways they work, makes the difference.
  9. 1 point
    Kinda thinking an LME Partial mash with a can of Briess Bavarian Wheat LME, and grains, however I've never tried the MB wheat HME. I'll have to flesh out a recipe.
  10. 1 point
    I'm probably going to be chewed up and spit out like cheap bubble gum on this forum for saying this, but When it comes to utensils, brewing pots, whisks for aerating the wort, spatulas to remove as much HME out of the can as I can, everything goes through the dish washer. If the sanitizer cycle (extreme heat) is good enough for my plates, cups and utensils, it's good enough for the brewing tools. I just leave the stuff in the dishwasher until I'm ready to brew. But, I'm a bachelor who lives on tv dinners, so the dishwasher is used only for brewing stuff. As you know, you can't put an LBK or PET bottles in the dish washer, so that's when I use the sanitizer. Oh, and if you have something small that is non metallic and non soft plastic (Tupper Ware, Muslin Sacks, etc), add water and microwave for 3 minutes. @RickBeer batter UP
  11. 1 point
    It's about the same stuff as MRB sanitizer, one can't tell the difference on close inspection. I ask because with recipes like Pumpkin Rising, when you need to make the puree and spices after the first week, there's some sanitizing you need to do. The single packets that come with the extract are used in the kegging and bottling stages, half for each. So, I bought more sanitizer for when I need to clean utensils, etc. for use in mid-stage, so-to-speak. I'll also need some (very little) when I add the vanilla extract to my rendition of 'Nilla Porter - an experiment I'm calling Villy M'nilly. Since I kegged the Villy M'nilly today and will need to add the vanilla in a week, I thought I'd hold some of the sanitizer over from the kegging step to sanitize the utensils, etc. What I actually did was drop the measuring spoon into some of the sanitizer (in a small jar) and will leave it there till it's time to measure out the vanilla next week.
  12. 1 point
    Not sure what you bought, but... If it says "sanitizer", and is meant for beer/wine/distilled/etc, then ok. If it says anything about wash, or has any aromas/colors/detergents, that's not sanitizer. If it is a dry powder, keep it sealed as long as possible. If you mix it with water, it'll last about a day, at worst two. Mr. Beer's recipes and kits come with sanitizer, and rarely should you need to buy more. Once you move on to larger equipment, you will use more, but personally, anything that touches my wort goes into the dishwasher and I hit the Sanitize mode. That includes glass bottles, after properly washed with an oxy product. if it is truly sanitizer, just keep your powder dry, and you'll be fine
  13. 1 point
    did you ever try a Hefe Weizen? that would be a good one to brew.
  14. 1 point
    Are you thinking all-grain or a Bavarian Weissbier partial mash? There's always "Lost Donkey" All-Belgian Wit if you're feeling adventurous.
  15. 1 point
    first, sorry to correct you, but it doesn't sterilize. sanitize and sterilize is slightly different. Second, I think it's been posted here before, but I think the Mr. Beer team doesn't recommend more than a day. That's my usual rule of thumb. Make what I need for the day, pour it out if I didn't use it.
  16. 1 point
    Those two are among my favorites.
  17. 1 point
    I guess a straight up extract is not for everybody. I only did two before going to HME partial mash's. My favorite though is partial mash recipes with LME and grain. Whether I have a big percentage of one or the other, the brews have turned out pretty good and no twang or off flavors.
  18. 1 point
    Great idea. I once used several boxes of sugar cubes to make a pyramid for a science-fair project (10-11 years old). I lathered them in a paste made of flour and water. It was messy as all get out (dear, ol mom was so understanding and helpful) but it won me a blue ribbon at the fair. But NOW I have an even better reason to stock back up on these babies! Thankx!!
  19. 1 point
    Great idea Dawg!! I'd thought about something similar to that by using the groundwater first to bring it down and then attaching a hose to the immersion chiller and pumping ice water from a cooler. So far I've not had a problem with putting my stainless fermenters in the mini fridge in to cool down to pitch temp in the summer weather. If I finish in the mid afternoon with the IC and put the fermenter in the fridge it's been ready to pitch at bedtime for most yeasts, but been a time or too that I left them in overnight and pitched in the morning and no issues at all. Still I'd rather be done with it as soon as possible and may try that next summer. Temps should be fine here now too for the IC and looking forward to a rapid chill down on my next brew day!
  20. 1 point
    I live in Ohio where this time of year the ground water is awesome for chilling. But it is a different story in July. My solution was to buy a 50' coil of 1/2" copper tubing and wrap it around a pot or something a couple of inches smaller than the inside dimension of a 5 gallon bucket. Make it so that you can get to both ends when submurged and using tubing and some fittings make it so that you can connect it to your garden hose and then to your other immersion chiller. Either plan ahead (I never do that) or buy a bag of ice at the store and run that immersion chiller in the bucket filled with ice and then into your immersion chiller in your wort. I can cool 3 gallons of wort to 62 degrees with 70 degree tap water in about 15 to 20 minutes using this method. The ice cost about $4 each time but I don't have to wait to pitch and risk infection.
  21. 1 point
    Nicely stated @RickBeer! I love the footprint of the LBK and it's a great fermenter but you hit the nail on the head with the hot wort issue, which I ran into with my first couple BIAB batches. I've never tried more than 2.25 gal. in one because I hate cleaning up overflow. I tried an immersion chiller to solve the hot wort issue but being much farther south the ground water temps in summer were to warm to really make it effective. Getting a small stainless fermenter with blow off tube took care of the hot wort issue, as I could just put it in the mini fridge set for my pitch temp. Downside was it cost $130 vs $10 for an LBK.
  22. 1 point
    +1 on temp control @D Kristof! Once I got that under control in a cooler with frozen pint bottles then it started to snowball. Got the mini fridge w/inkbird that could hold 2 LBK's and that really jump started my plan to acquire equipment for small batches up to the occasional 5 gal. batch. 3 LBK's, plus a 3.5 and 7 gal. Ss fermenter now give me my best flexibility. I rotate MB HME's in my queue always with PM, but my fav recipes are mostly BIAB AG with some LME or mostly LME. I haven't had any off flavor or twang from using LME and it stores really well if you use a partial can. Producing more than 5 gal a month is perfect for me and anymore would give me storage issues.
  23. 1 point
    Tip - number your fermenters. Put in your brewing notes which fermenter you used. Put your batch numbers on your bottles, which then ties back to the fermenter. Future issues discovered can be traced back to a common cause sometimes.
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