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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    The benefit to knowing these would be able to calculate your ABV for one thing. Using brewing software and inputting your boil off rate, amount of trub loss left in kettle, your amount of grains and hops, your desired packaging amount, the capacity of your fermenter and trub loss in fermenter, it can tell you how much strike water you'll need,the preboil amount, the post boil amount, and how much will be left to go in your fermenter and in the case of Beersmith , I believe, how much top off water is needed. I haven't used that feature yet but I've seen it in the program. If you follow those guidelines and input the correct numbers, then it should get you close to your packaging amount and approx. ABV when it's ready to bottle. All that lets you play with some scenarios should you want to make changes to your recipe. Huge deal for recipe making, my fav. It's not a small benefit, it's pretty huge in that it opens up a whole new dimension from what you began with in cans of HME. There are free online calculators that can get you off and running even if you're using HME, DME, or LME as your base for a PM, or if you're going all grain.
  2. 1 point
    I am not a whole grain brewer but I would think it would affect hop utilization. From the charts of that, the more concentrated the wort the less you get out of them. http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/hops/hop-bittering-calculations If you wanted to do it your way you could recalculate but you would need more hops. Ending up exactly right offers the optimum economic solution. But as long as you use the actual gravity of your boil to calculate hopping you should be OK. Note that the author of this linked article uses a 3 gal pot and boil gravity of 1.080, and adds water at the end to get his 5 gal fermentation wort at maybe somewhere around 1.050. 😮 He also fudges it a bit to account (or not) for boil off.
  3. 1 point
    When I read your post, I thought you said you wanted to be done at 15 days. In re-reading it, you said you were letting it sit from day 15 to 18, then wanted to bottle. That's fine, in fact, that's what I do.
  4. 1 point
    I just give it 21. My pipeline is long enough that I will not go thirsty. So it makes life easy. Besides, Mon/Tues my wife works in a.m. so those are brewing days. 21 days cycles me to same day in the week.
  5. 1 point
    18-21 is what I go with.
  6. 1 point
    I assume when Rick says to let the yeast "clean up," he's saying to let the yeast metabolize unwanted fermentation byproducts (VDKs, acetaldehyde). IMHO, if you pitched a healthy pitch of yeast of proper size, and you're getting consistent readings, you're good to bottle. A healthy fermentation should be ready for bottling once you have reached final gravity. If you're uncertain if your pitch size/health was correct, then the "cleaning up" is warranted out of precaution (I think that's where Rick's thought comes from... Mr. B yeast packet size and lack of knowledge for the homebrewer on the potential age/health of the yeast warrants the caution of the extended time period). To flip this on its ear, there is a school of thought that states that yeast autolysis can occur if you leave it on the cake too long, leaving off flavors in the beer. Personally, I don't think that's a huge deal for us homebrewers. I think I've packaged as early as 7 and as late as 28. I generally keg (now) or bottle (in the past) around 10-14 depending on reading. YMMV.
  7. 1 point
    So, it really isn't insignificant. I mean, the beer measured out at 7.02% abv after cold-crashing. So, IF (big IF) there was a 0.68% gain that'd put the batch at about 7.7%. But it doesn't really matter. What does is that it tastes pretty good and actually compared very favorably with a commercial craft beer that sells pretty well here in the NW. I'm happy. And maybe I've solved the mystery of what kind of hops I have in the freezer.
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