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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Where are you? At the Amundsen-Scott Research facility in Antartica?
  2. 2 points
    Tomorrow it will be 14 days without power - most of the snow is gone, but not all. I'm supposed to crash my next batch tomorrow - thankfully it's still in the mid to low 30's outside so I'll just set the lbk in the snow patch, cover it with a towel and let it crash. Bottling is easily done with melted snow water and takes no power so I don't even need to run the generator. On Wednesday it's back to the camp stove as I attempt my clone of Santiam Brewing's Pirate Stout. I have all the necessary ingredients save the English Admiral hops and those I may need to substitute with the 'mystery' hops already on hand. The brewing goes on (as does the delightful consumption of some of the earlier efforts!). 😋
  3. 1 point
    Thanks Nickfixit. I just came back in from putting them back into the cooler. Temp in there is at 68 or 69 degrees. For the American Lager, should I be there or a little warmer? I know you said Lagers like it a little cooler and you do yours at mid-60. And, now this beer was bottled on Monday, February 11, so that's right at 4 weeks. How much longer should I condition? 1 to 10 weeks is a very wide range but maybe there's some way to test them during conditioning(?). Again, the beer carbonated eh...so so...but the head is poor and there's very little head retention. I'm using Mr Beers flip-top bottles. Thank you
  4. 1 point
    I don't think it will be problem. The yeast should wake up again and continue. You can always momentarily invert the bottle to get it up to suspension again if you are concerned. Don't shake though...……….dagnabbit - what do you think this is - champagne? lol. Wait until you win in Nascar.
  5. 1 point
    Thanks fellows. I guess I'll get those last bottles back out of the fridge and back into the cooler where they fermented. This was the American Lager LBK Kit, so I kept the inside of the cooler at about 63 to 65 degrees, according to the meat thermometer I installed in the lid of the cooler. The Kit came with a small thermometer strip so with that one on the keg, the temperature was in the middle (green checkmark) all the time. DEFbrewer, I'm a stickler for details and I cleaned and sanitized everything per instructions (including my hands in the mix), BUT..... I certainly allow room for error, because something went wrong, and your advice seems sound. I was watching a youtube video where I think the brewer mentioned that "green/cidery" beer during the first taste test should ferment a little longer. Well, when I sampled my batch at 3 weeks, it was definitely beer tasting, but it did have a wine aftertaste. I went ahead and bottled anyway thinking that would go away during carbonation, but it didn't. Do you think that my putting the remaining bottles in the refrigerator this morning will have an ill effect if I take them back out to a warmer location and let them condition? Or have I short-stopped the conditioning process? Thanks again. ON EDIT: Ok after typing this I went back up and re-read again both posts. DEFbrewer you already answered my question about taking them back out of the refrigerator to condition some more. I'll do that right now.
  6. 1 point
    This is my opinion, Rick Beer may differ and provide better suggestions LOL. Just to emphasize - conditioning is out of the refrigerator. Carbonation is good at 65-70. The temperature for conditioning depends on the beer style ales - 60-75 is OK. I have mine in mid 60-s. Lagers colder. so maybe you could condition lagers in the fridge but it has to be a temp at which the yeast can be somewhat active. Then, putting it in the fridge for >= 3 days to allow carbonation to absorb. More carbonation is absorbed in the liquid at cooler temperatures - so that will affect head retention and initial carbonation gush.
  7. 1 point
    Hydrometers are easy to use, look under RickBeer's post. No harm in going a few extra days either, but if the yeast are very cold, they have stopped working ( ale yeast). I think that 66 deg F is perfect, and I try to brew near that.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/08/17/aluminum-vs-stainless-best-beer-brewing-pots/ https://www.google.com/amp/s/beerandbrewing.com/amp/off-flavor-of-the-week-metallic
  10. 1 point
    Thoughts turning to how I want to rebuild my mostly depleted pipeline. I'll need some good staple brews to form the backbone to start off with before I can start working in new styles. Sooo, it'll be spring and to get things rolling I'll start off with an Irish Red recipe in an LBK, and a Altbier recipe in my ss mini brew bucket. These I can do pretty much back to back, allowing just a few days separation since they'll both fit in the mini fridge at the same time. Using the same combo of fermenters I'll do a citrus zest Witbier in an LBK, and either a variation of @Creeps McLane's Little Trees PA or if figs are in season yet, try to flesh out that Jester King beer that uses smoked figs. Lol, that would be very experimental for me, but I've got a nice digital electric smoker that can do cold smoke temps, and I like figs so there you go. Plus I figure once I get my wood and fig recipe down, I can vacuum seal those puppies and pack some off to Wisconsin and see what Creeps can come up with. Yep looking forward to spring 2019.
  11. 1 point
    Any "vinegar-like" taste is not a good sign. But as to whether or not it's done, fermenting eats sugar so the taste test is sweetness. Using a hydrometer would tell you whether it's actually done, no tasting needed.
  12. 1 point
    66 is fine, in fact it's PERFECT. If it didn't taste sweet, it's done. It's also ok to go 3 weeks and 5 days. 😉
  13. 1 point
    Yeast find a way
  14. 1 point
    Stau-Haus Slash Pile IPA 2-gallon, all-grain (mash-in-sack) Prepare 2 gallons of distilled strike water adding: calcium sulfate ( gypsum), 2 g sodium chloride, 0.25 g calcium chloride, 0.5 g Ingredients: Rahr 2-row, 4 lbs. Weyermann CaraWheat, 0.18 lb. Chinook, 0.25 oz. ea, 60 min., 10 min., 5 min. Simcoe, 0.2 oz. ea, 20 min., 2 min. Magnum, 0.3 oz., 15 min. Irish moss @ 15 min Yeast nutrient @ 10 min. Safale US-05 Mash grains @ 152 F for 60 min.. Mash-out @ 168 F for 10 min. Sprinkle sparge with hot tap water. Boil, hop, chill and pitch! OG 1.050 SRM 6 IBU 60+
  15. 1 point
    Hi @Big Sarge! My first brew salt additions were earlier this year with my English Bitter recipes as our water has no chloride or sulfate but has high alkalinity (308 mg/L!) That might work fine for HME batches and dark all-grain beers but there was no way that I was going to brew a respectable Bitter, Pale Ale or IPA without addressing my residual alkalinity issue. I would recommend poking around the Brewer's Friend website (or getting BeerSmith 3), obtain a water report, and read Palmer's chapter dealing with water chemistry. Once you know where your water is at you can pick a style-specific profile and make the necessary modifications to your water. Using the BF calculator, I was surprised how little calcium sulfate, calcium chloride and baking soda is added to deionized water to yield a more balanced profile for brewing a Pale Ale. Finally, I've just recently gotten more serious about 'dialing-in' recipes and improving my beers, but I'm still learning along with everyone else about this fascinating aspect of brewing!
  16. 0 points
    I made some root beer for the kids and bottled it in my PET bottles. Now the the bottles smell of root beer. I've cleaned them with fragrance free dish wash and Oxygen Brewery Wash. I left the solution in for three days, then emptied and let them air dry for a while. They still smell like root beer. Is there a way to get rid of the smell? Will it hurt my beer? I have another set of bottles, but they are in use right now.
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