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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I thought Mr B sanitizer was One Step.
  2. 1 point
    I bought some PBW and am going to clean the Keg again with unscented soap, sponge, and then PBW. Then I can still sanitize it before setting aside to get ready for the next batch (which will be within days). The first time for sanitizer I used MrBeer's no-rinse packet as instructed, but then I bought some "One Step" and thought I would use this solution on the next brewing/bottling. Plus, I don't think my Voodoo refill came with any sanitizer. What do you think of One Step? Probably not as good as Star San (?). I might try some of that next time. I also visited a nice home brewery store in a large city near me (El Paso) and learned a lot about adding steeping grains, etc. SO, thanks for getting me started learning about that. I don't think I'll delve into that quite yet. Maybe after a couple of three successful brews are under my belt.
  3. 1 point
    If you don't want to steep grains, adding the Golden (wheat) LME/DME or even booster or maltodextrin powder will help head retention too. When you sanitize the LBK before putting the wort in, don't forget to open and shut the spigot a few times quickly before letting it sit its 10 min. The spigot sanitizing flow can be used on the plate for your utensils to sanitize that too. Also to sanitize it ALL over inside, I invert the LBK and shake it a bit as well as shaking it right side up before adding the spoons etc. to sanitize there as well. After the 10 min I put the utensils on the plate and invert/shake it again to be sure then give it another 5 or as long as I can based on the other parts of the process. I used to get infections but have not since I started doing that. I also use some sanitizer from the bottles in the LBK after cleaning, before putting it away when bottling.
  4. 1 point
    HME has hops in it. These hops are put in by the brewer to create a specific hop profile. Then they can it up and sell it. If you boiled this, you'd be changing the hop profile - for example, the brewer put in a specific hop and boiled it for 20 minutes. If you now boil the HME, you're changing that to longer than 20 minutes. We choose to use steeping grains, to augment the can of HME, to give it more flavor. No hops, you then pour in the can of HME, stir, and you're done. When you move on to brew steeping grains + LME/DME + hops (or all grain), you'll decide how long you want t boil each hop.
  5. 1 point
    @StretchNM, don't get discouraged; it sounds like you've got some of the important basics down from the very beginning - sanitation and temperature control. You're already making beer that's "not bad at all", so you're ahead of where I was when I started. Some of the recipes that use only extract just need a little time to hit their stride. I let mine carbonate/condition at room temperature until the minimum recommended conditioning time. Then I put one in the fridge and drink it three days later. If it tastes good, I'll put a couple more in the fridge. But anything that I'm not going to enjoy in a few days stays out at room temperature. They get better with age. As far as head retention, as Rick said, extract-only beers don't have much head. To help with this, I steep four-six ounces of grains (a combination of carapils and two-row) with every extract-only batch I make. They help with mouthfeel and head retention. Once you've got a few batches under your belt and have the process down, you'll be ready to start adding grains. It's not a steep learning curve (pun definitely intended); if you can make tea and read a thermometer you already have the necessary skills to steep/mash grains. Oh, and welcome to the hobby and the forum. There's a ton of great information here (RickBeer's signature block alone contains a wealth of knowledge) that'll help you make beers that you'll be proud to share with friends and family.
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