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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Brew #2 - MRB - 1776 Ale (ABV 4.2) Finally... a success! After losing to my first brew batch - MRB's American LAGER, I've got a winner. At least, to me it is! Not quite as carbonated as I'd like, and lacking in sustainable head, it's as sweet as I could have asked for. No sourness. No unpleasant aftertaste. Just a nice, sweet Ale. I can do this. I have one brew in the queue - an all-grain English Pale Ale. It should be just fine. We'll see. ON EDIT: Changed MRB's American Ale to MRB's American LAGER
  2. 11 points
    Thank you for all your comments on here. To address a few: 1) Security concerns on Facebook are real so don't join if you are concerned at all. It OK. 2) Facebook is a totally different group than the forum here. There is no need to join if you prefer to be here. 3) Every business goes through staffing changes and we have had many people throughout the years. Our former brewmasters include Eric Green who started one of the best craft breweries in Arizona, Dragoon Brewery, Gene Sandoval started Blackrock Brewing, Pat Butler joined Dragoon Brewing, Sam Diggens joined Sentinel Brewing, and most recently we had Josh move up to Pinetop Brewing Co. Then we have others like Tim, Tyson and Renae that were here for a time and then were able to continue to grow themselves (millennials change jobs 4 times between 21 and 32 according to LinkedIn study). We continue to bring in new people with or without experience. Right now we have two current agents with over 25 years experience in brewing not counting the additional 65 years of experience with the other people in the office. 4) It may appear that Mr. Beer participation is lagging in the forum, but instead the amount of searches that go on just show that people are finding the answers that they need. Similar to what many of you have said, they dont go that next step and further participate. With almost a half a million posts, they will find their answer. We have had to adjust our way of communicating and now had more people participating in our support chat on our website more than anything else. This too could possibly take away from participation here. 5) The homebrewing business has changed drastically over the past decade. Interest grew dramatically up to 2012 then slowed, then in 2015 reverse and many people lost interest. The craft beer craze that we all enjoy has some to blame as we all can go to one of many close by craft breweries and enjoy what we once could only brew. 6) With more people working, there is less time to brew. There is almost a perfect correlation to the unemployment rate to the interest in "how to brew" google searches. Most businesses go through this cycle and it will come back around with more interest developing again in short order. When that does happen we will have this forum, Facebook, our site and continue to look at all options where people want to be contacted. This forum is not going anywhere soon. We will continue to upgrade and maintain. We will continue to engage when needed and point new brewers here to get their answers. Please continue to be the warm and engaging group that you all are.
  3. 9 points
    My all-grain English Pale Ale 1-gallon Kit I brewed in March is ready. And the results of the first bottle are: Success! Wow, I can't believe I'm doing this. First goodness with the MRB 1776 and now Success with the no-name brand EPA. This beer is very pale, smooooth, hoppy, and well-carbonated. I'm a happy brewer right now. Thank you to all of you that helped out when I was doing this batch - @RickBeer, @Jdub, @BDawg62, @Nickfixit, @Shrike, @Bonsai & Brew, @D Kristof, and @StretchNM (that's me). Yes, I went through the old thread to find everybody who gave advice and encouragement. Thank you. Despite the sloppy instructions that came with the Kit, we made it work. Pretty dang cool. I would definitely brew this beer again. And again. I guess I'm going to have to break out my pilsner glass for this brew. I know, my logo and labeling needs work. But that's about as professional as I need to be ((( )))
  4. 9 points
    @MRB-Rick Thank you for your post. Knowing that our concerns are relevant to Mr. Beer and that you have addressed them is good for us all. Also the update to our perceived lack of participation in this forum is wonderful. Knowing that the questions that we have spent a lot of time answering are still providing help is awesome. Even though I no longer brew with Mr. Beer products, I use this forum to help those who like me are starting out their journey with Mr. Beer. I hope that somehow my answers and the answers of others here have kept some brewers in the hobby that would have left otherwise. Your post alone will make me continue to check this forum every day as I have always done. Prost, Dawg
  5. 7 points
    Here are some excellent tips for brewing and getting the result you want. I do not adhere to these to - my misfortune - I am attention deficit so try very different things each time (usually) (Sometimes I make multiple brews with very slight differences but not often.) Still, this is a good read. Also note the fermentation temperatures! https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/4-trappist-brewing-tips-from-spencer-trappist-brewery/
  6. 7 points
    Write down everything. Write down everything. Write down everything. 😀
  7. 7 points
    HOME BREW RECIPE: Title: Alaskan Amber Clone Author: Web+ modifications Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: American Amber Ale Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 6.5 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.043 Efficiency: 70% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.056 Final Gravity: 1.013 ABV (standard): 5.69% IBU (tinseth): 35.3 SRM (morey): 10.59 Mash pH: 5.62 FERMENTABLES: 9 lb - Pale 2-Row (80%) 1 lb - Caramel / Crystal 10L (8.9%) 0.5 lb - Caramel / Crystal 120L (4.4%) 0.5 lb - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (4.4%) 4 oz - Rice Hulls (2.2%) HOPS: 1 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 28.29 1 oz - Saaz, Type: Pellet, AA: 3.5, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 7.02 MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Sparge, Temp: 150 F, Time: 60 min Starting Mash Thickness: 1.6 qt/lb YEAST: White Labs - German Ale/ Kölsch Yeast WLP029 Starter: Yes Form: Liquid Attenuation (avg): 75% Flocculation: Medium Optimum Temp: 65 - 69 F Fermentation Temp: 65 F Pitch Rate: 0.35 (M cells / ml / deg P)
  8. 6 points
    Administrators you can choose to remove this post if inappropriate Gentlemen, Here is a recipe for a simple Blueberry Mead that I demonstrated last night for my brew club. Note: if you were to ferment this in one of your LBKs, I would probably not use it again for beer since the aroma will be impossible to remove. Also, you could substitute any flavor of Knudsen Juice for this recipe. Simple Blueberry Mead 1 gallon Batch (finished) Recipe 2 – 32oz bottles of Knudsen Blueberry Juice 4# - Honey (any variety) 1 – 5gm pkt of Lalvin 71B yeast 6.25 gm – Go Ferm Protect 6 gm – Fermaid O (4 additions of 1.5gm at 24hr, 48hr, 72hr and 1/3 sugar break) Instructions 1. Mix together the juice and honey and mix until honey is completely incorporated 2. Top off with water to 1.25 gallon mark 3. Rehydrate yeast in 125ml (about 4oz) 95 to 105 degree water with Go Ferm dissolved 4. Pitch yeast after rehydration 5. For first 7 days, degas every 12 hours to remove excess carbon dioxide 6. Add 1.5 gm of Fermaid O per schedule above (use Tosna 2.0 to determine actual requirements) be sure to degas prior to this step, you will make a mess otherwise. 7. After approximately 2 to 3 weeks (when gravity is stable) transfer clear mead into a secondary container. 8. At transfer add .38gm of Potassium Metabisulfate and 1/2 tsp of Potassium Sorbate 9. After another 3 to 4 weeks transfer clear mead to a 1 gallon jug and age for another 1 to 3 months. 10. Bottle and then age to your liking. Mead is ready to drink at bottling but benefits from aging from 6 months to a year.
  9. 6 points
    Gentlemen, This mead recently received a bronze medal at a competition. Ciders and meads were combined in the category and it was the only mead to medal.
  10. 6 points
  11. 6 points
    Some people say the number one rule in brewing is sanitation. I thinks its "know what youre doing, and why youre doing it" You technically don't know if your beer is done fermenting until you take a gravity reading. I would also add that you can do a fairly simple diacytel test at home to ensure the beer is ready to be packaged. If the beer is done at day 7 and also tastes good and passes the diacytel test, then its good to package. It will not harm it to go another week or even two. So, yes, another reading at day 14 is pointless. But remember, attenuation (average % of sugars a yeast will eat) is only an average. Two readings are needed to prove the yeast is done eating. Keep in mind some yeasts are notorious for stalling out at any point and may test the same for days before finishing the job. Im an honest man. I only kinda go by days fermenting. But Ive also been doing this for almost 6 years. Every beer ive ever made has produced a krausen of varying degrees. Some much more larger than others. I pitch yeast, ferment, krausen appers for days then it falls. when it falls, I raise the temp for a day or three until im ready to keg. Keep in mind I keg, It wont explode like bottles would if you aren't careful. I generally go no less than 14 days because I try to only do brewing things on the weekend. So 14 days fits right into my schedule. If I don't get to it, then ill go 21 days. Doesn't affect the beer in the slightest. Also remember that dry hopping kicks up another mini fermentation, so don't dry hop and then bottle immediately. Know what youre doing and why youre doing it. US-04 is usually a quick mover but if your krausen fell yesterday then its probably not ready. Temperature is a tool, and also a measurement in brewing. At 65 degrees things happen fast. At 35 they happen slow. At 75 they happen too fast for most ales. Don't cold crash until youre sure the beer is done because youll either a) get exploding bottles due to imcomplete fermentation or b) lock in undesirable flavors. Carb the beer for 4 weeks and then decide what you want to do from there. Cold storage will preserve flavors and keep beers fresh while keeping your stored bottles at 70 degrees will age them for the better or worse. Its been a long time since I posted any useful advice. That's why Im goin on a tangent
  12. 6 points
    creeps... beer has all the nutrient your body ever will need.they even named a vitamin after it.. vitamin B for Beer. no need to clutter it up with fruit. ive been drinking beer for ages and i'm in the best shape i've ever been in... round.
  13. 5 points
    Boy i tell you, this week... unexpected $800 car bill, my toilet is clogged, we got put on mandatory overtime, ITS WINTER ALL OF A SUDDEN. All these things dragging me down. But then the ups man shows up with an early xmas present from a friend and theres two beer kits in the box. Things are looking up
  14. 5 points
    Brewed my FREE MB WDA yesterday (expiration Nov 2019). What a monster fermentation after just 24 hours. Looking forward to a really yummy beer. Have not brewed in a few months, but now is the season!
  15. 5 points
    I ran across this 2017 Mr Beer article and while there are many hops not on this list, it's a great reference list that might help tickle your thought process when choosing your hops whether your brewing extract or AG. https://www.mrbeer.com/blog/post/aroma-hops-bittering-hops-dual-purpose-hops
  16. 5 points
    This is definitely true. My brewery only brews Belgian styles and we step mash every recipe, but 1 (our Belgian style IPA). Most recipes go through 2 rests, but our wit has 3 rests. Step mashing is also very beneficial when brewing single malt beers because it adds complexity and depth to the base grain you're using. Step mashing basically utilizes different enzymes to break down different starches into sugars. Single infusion mash beers are only utilizing 1 enzyme because the other enzymes were destroyed above certain temps. But by stepping your mash at different temps for different time periods, you are utilizing more types of enzymes, which also results in better mash efficiency and better attenuation in the end.
  17. 5 points
    Making this beer this weekend. Sub extract for 4lbs wheat and 4lbs pilsner. Also sub hallertau for liberty. The LHBS was out. Never used this yeast before, i have always used omegas hefe yeast in the past.
  18. 5 points
    I'm on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" band wagon. I've been doing the 3 weeks fermentation/4 week carbonation, 3 days cold crash. My beer has been turning out very good. I would be afraid to change my process now.
  19. 5 points
    The more craft beers I try the more I realize I usually prefer my homebrews.
  20. 5 points
    Next up will be a APA. I have my grist and water treatments set in Beersmith, but still adjusting my hops schedule. Originally I was just going with Mosaic and Amarillo, but I'm thinking that could turn out too sweet and fruity without some counterpoint, so I'm going to add Simcoe into the hops schedule as well. IBU's will be about 50. SRM 9.5 and ABV 5.5-6%. My batch will be 4.75 gal full volume BIAB. That's about the most I can do in my 7.5 gal kettle without having to deal with top off water calculations. My grist will be Maris Otter, Munich, Vienna, Crystal 40, and Wheat. Hops will be a 60, 30, 10, and flameout additions with no dry hop. Yeast US-05
  21. 5 points
    That might be me. I started out steeping four oz of carapils when brewing non partial mash recipes. I did this to help with head retention and body, and also because the addition of steeped/mashed grains seems to alleviate or even eliminate the dreaded "extract twang". Because of how it's malted, conventional wisdom is that there are no starches remaining in carapils that can be converted into fermentable sugars , so it doesn't add ABV. Kedogn and I were discussing this on here and he linked to an article that showed through experimentation that almost 20% of potential fermentable sugars can remain in carapils after malting. So I thought "Hey, that's potential ABV going to waste with every brew. SACRILEGE!" So I decided to start adding some 2-row along with the carapils. Two reasons for this: first, during mashing, the enzymes in the 2-row will convert some of the remaining starches in the carapils into sugars, and second, because 2-row is cheap so why not? 😁 Is it really making a big difference? Probably not. But if there are potential fermentables going to waste, I figure why not try and take advantage of them. So I now when I brew a beer that isn't a PM I mash four oz of carapils with two ounces of 2-row.
  22. 5 points
    This one's for you, @MiniYoda. I've never been to Kentucky but they tell me that this was a popular style back in the day. Hop times are 45, 15 and 5 minutes. This tasty all-grainer turned out great but I'll find out at Sunday's Lost Cabin Homebrew comp if it appealed to BJCP judges. Entered in the historical category, they will probably group it with other Amber/Common-type beers for judging. I'll follow up with a score then. 🍻 Dark Cream Ale (2-gallon, Mash-in-Sack) Rahr 6-row, 2.25 lb. Flaked corn, 1 lb. Briess Victory malt, 0.12 lb. Briess Crystal 60, 0.12 lb. Weyermann Carafa II (Special), 0.04 lb. Mt. Hood, 0.25 oz. Cluster, 0 25 oz. Mt. Hood, 0 25 oz. Safale K-97 German Ale yeast Step mash grains 20 min. @ 132 F followed by 40 min. @ 152 F, adjusting pH to 5.3 with lactic acid (if necessary). Mash out @ 168 F for 10 min. Sprinkle sparge grain bag with hot tap water. Begin 45 min. boil, hopping as indicated. Chill wort to < 70 F. Pitch K-97, areate, and ferment cool for 2 weeks. Cold crash is optional. OG 1.043 IBU 19 SRM 12-14 ABV 4.5 - 5%
  23. 4 points
    Ordered some grains and yeast today after finalizing my recipe for "Wiscohops." I ordered from MHBS this morning and they shipped this afternoon and will be delivered tomorrow afternoon! @Creeps McLane I did drop the wheat from my recipe and tweaked the hops and SRM in BS a tad. I know it's likely to be a bit or a lot different from "Hopulation", but that's okay. It'll still be a Pale Ale and a fun recipe.
  24. 4 points
    have a Community Yessir Pale Ale clone ready to brew. all the grains, hops...etc. I love the beer, and it's seasonal, so I can't get it right now, so I e-mailed the brewmaster and he e-mailed me right back! gave me everything except for the most important part, the hop schedule. having to guess on that. oh well, i will make beer! wish i had time to brew right now. damn work!
  25. 4 points
    Not my recipe, just whats up next. Steep - 0.25 lbs Briess Caramel 80L - 0.25 lbs Fawcett Pale Chocolate - 0.125 lbs Black Malt LME-DME - 6 lbs Amber malt syrup - 1 lbs Amber dry malt extract Hops - 1 oz US Goldings (60 min) - 1 oz Liberty (45 min) - 1 oz Willamette (15 min) Yeast Danstar Windsor
  26. 4 points
    my wda is a success. i bottled on tuesday 11/12 after cold crashing for 3 days. filled 10 750ml bottles and i had about 8 oz left over. it had a great taste. i'll try the trub bottle after 4 weeks. thanks for all the help folks, i was close to tossing this batch.
  27. 4 points
    Well my queue consists of my next PA. However, I have fleshed out the recipe and have a name for it. BOOTY CALL. Heck I even have some label art to go with it. After that well I did buy some NZ hops called Rakau, so another PA at some point will feature those, and a name too. Rakau Rumble. My queue for the moment.
  28. 4 points
    This Saturday itll be me and a big kettle of wort and hops getting picked straight from the bine continuously for the duration of the boil. Question is, do i make 10 or 15 gallons? No idea how potent my hops are but theres quite a few of them to be picked.
  29. 4 points
    So the results are in. I brewed American Porter straight up just like it came in the mail. I used carbonation drops in half of the bottles and plain white sugar for the other half using the amount that the instructions that came with the kit said. They sat for two weeks ( I know people say to leave it longer but for this experiment this is what I did) and one bottle of each was put in the fridge for 24 hours ( again I know longer is better). When I poured the beer from the Carbo drops bottle there was a little head but not much. The sugar bottle was almost like a draft beer with a lot of carbonation and head. For me I think that I will not spend any more money on the drops and will just use sugar from now on.
  30. 4 points
    I want smell-o'vision so bad!!!
  31. 4 points
    2nd year crop of an unknown cultivar. Yes, they are growing on my downspout and yes, they are gonna get brewed!🍻
  32. 4 points
    Ordered Pilsen, Maris Otter, Carapils, Nottingham yeast, and 5 or 6 different hops. Falconers Flight for a LBK of Witches Flight with some PM tweaks, and then some Willamete, Fuggles, EKG, and Styrian Celia for my attempt at St. Austells Tribute Pale Ale. For some reason I ordered some Galaxy hops with no recipe in hand but will figure out something. After that I think I'll make a 4-5 gal batch of Altbier just to keep a better stock amount than what I brewed for the German Stein comp. Still pretty hot for the AG brewing in the garage but I'm going to have to just deal with it.
  33. 4 points
    The last time I shipped beer, im guessing the hazys exploded. UPS notified me there was damage, discarded the exploded beers, and packaged up the ones that were still good and shipped them back to me. Also included was a report and several tips on how to safely package beer. Its 2019, i dont think they care anymore
  34. 4 points
    LME and DME are made from grain, so they comply with Reinheitsgebot. Mr. Beer HMEs contain LME, and hops, and complies. Beer uses yeast (definitional). There is nothing about brewing a Mr. Beer can of HME that is not compliant. Some Mr. Beer recipes add adjuncts, those would not be compliant. Unclear if OP wants to comply with Reinheitsgebot, or simply brew all grain.
  35. 4 points
    I'll go with a local craft beer when i am out at a restaurant, if they have any. Some are very good, and I like to support "Local" small brewers. At home I drink my own, mainly because i made them the way I like, and they mostly turn out great. Plus, I like the hobby of brewing. On the issue of MB changing the fermentation and carbonation times, I bet it is to help those new brewers get a beer done in less than two months (which is typical for me). They will still get beer, and mostly it will be fine.
  36. 4 points
    Cut back the shoots twice and then let the stronger ones grow. This is where theyre at after a lot of rain lately
  37. 4 points
    Next up for me is... White Sail Pale Ale Mrs. O’Leary’s Cream Ale Roke IPA Day After Day IPA
  38. 4 points
    Talking of fermentation temps , I was looking at the "Craft Week" Recipes Mr. B has this week, and noticed that all of them say ferment between 70 and76 deg. Seems a little warm for some of them. I am thinking it is just a boilerplate number not catered to the recipe/yeasts - which is a bit disappointing. I am especially intrigued by the Pennsylvania Lager, but I am thinking even for S-04, 70-76 may be a bit high especially as Fermentis says "ideally 15-20°C (59-68°F)." And this is the Wort temp not ambient. I think I will just keep it at my cellar temp of 62-64 ambient.
  39. 4 points
    room temp 68-70... equals ... inside fermentation temp of 78-85f . yes... too hot. too hot = yeast pee out acetaldehyde = green apple taste. that being said, the hardest lesson for the new brewer is patience and temperature control. get a stick on thermometer from mr beer. stick it on your lbk. look up how to build a fermentation chiller box. you can make a simple one from an igloo cooler, an aquarium thermometer and a 1 liter bottle of ice. experiment with the amount of ice and note how long it keeps termperatures in the cooler at the level desired. shoot for an ambient temp of 62-64f for most ales. too cold? yeast will go sleepies. too hot, yeast make sour apple juice. dont get discouraged. your first 3 beer kits will most likely be a disappointment. persist. learn. you get better. ---- suggestions in you tube video for ruining mr beer kits? the world is full of 'experts'. most dont know jack. the sage advice i gleaned from here ages ago was this: new brewers should do a couple kits exactly as instructed to see the process, what happens, and how they come out. over time you can get experiemental and add things. dont chase alcohol content. chase flavor. add extra stuff to a recipe you change the recipe and no longer match the style. i once added tons of brown sugar to a stout. gack. brown sugar is cane sugar with mollasses. the yeast eat the sugar and leave the mollasses so i ended up with licorice flavored 'stout'. no longer stout. if you added the extra fermentables at the start of the process you can probably go ahead and bottle. just dont expect great beer. remember too that tasting beer in midferment will produce a different flavor than after it has carbed and conditioned. age is your friend...as is patience. --- toss beer? are you nuts? even the appleyist crappy beer is still alcohol. add something to the glass like a shot of bourbon to cut the apple. acetaldehyde wont kill you. the beauty of mr beer and home brewing is that you can drink your mistakes.. most of the time... unless you got a really bad infection like ecoli or acetobacter (vinegar).
  40. 4 points
    Generally, I buy the HMS and booster from Mr Beer, the DME and bags, Milled grains for PM and yeast from the LHBS.
  41. 4 points
    @Fire Rooster i'm gonna do a cascade smash next i think. been thinking about it since you posted that smash article. however, gonna do hops schedule like this: FW hops, whirlpool hops and 7 day dry hop. goal is to get more hop flavor, not the bitterness. thinking about cascade cryo hops too.
  42. 4 points
    yeah, that wouldn't go over well in my house. LOL. a case of bottles will cost about as much as buying a 12 pack of something you will enjoy and you can reuse the bottles.
  43. 4 points
    Im gonna brew a saison, shocking I know. but Im gonna ferment in primary with saison yeast and lacto and then secondary with some brett. Its gonna be a long process but itll be worth it. Challenge is to get plenty of dextrins in there for the brett to chew on. No matter what, @Big Sarge is sure to receive a bottle or 6. Also I gotta get some amber lager figured out for September when I go visit the badlands and @Bonsai & Brew. Might sound crazy, but Im gonna also possibly pick up some oak spirals from Austin Homebrew Supply for the sasion / lacto / breet beer. Id like to get some oak tannins in there as well for added body. Might ship those to my inlaws in TX while im down there visiting them and @Jdub. Maybe bring back some Jester King beer and propagate some yeast for that beer. who knows. anythings possible.
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