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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Brew #2 - MRB - 1776 Ale (ABV 4.2) Finally... a success! After losing to my first brew batch - MRB's American LAGER, I've got a winner. At least, to me it is! Not quite as carbonated as I'd like, and lacking in sustainable head, it's as sweet as I could have asked for. No sourness. No unpleasant aftertaste. Just a nice, sweet Ale. I can do this. I have one brew in the queue - an all-grain English Pale Ale. It should be just fine. We'll see. ON EDIT: Changed MRB's American Ale to MRB's American LAGER
  2. 11 points
    Thank you for all your comments on here. To address a few: 1) Security concerns on Facebook are real so don't join if you are concerned at all. It OK. 2) Facebook is a totally different group than the forum here. There is no need to join if you prefer to be here. 3) Every business goes through staffing changes and we have had many people throughout the years. Our former brewmasters include Eric Green who started one of the best craft breweries in Arizona, Dragoon Brewery, Gene Sandoval started Blackrock Brewing, Pat Butler joined Dragoon Brewing, Sam Diggens joined Sentinel Brewing, and most recently we had Josh move up to Pinetop Brewing Co. Then we have others like Tim, Tyson and Renae that were here for a time and then were able to continue to grow themselves (millennials change jobs 4 times between 21 and 32 according to LinkedIn study). We continue to bring in new people with or without experience. Right now we have two current agents with over 25 years experience in brewing not counting the additional 65 years of experience with the other people in the office. 4) It may appear that Mr. Beer participation is lagging in the forum, but instead the amount of searches that go on just show that people are finding the answers that they need. Similar to what many of you have said, they dont go that next step and further participate. With almost a half a million posts, they will find their answer. We have had to adjust our way of communicating and now had more people participating in our support chat on our website more than anything else. This too could possibly take away from participation here. 5) The homebrewing business has changed drastically over the past decade. Interest grew dramatically up to 2012 then slowed, then in 2015 reverse and many people lost interest. The craft beer craze that we all enjoy has some to blame as we all can go to one of many close by craft breweries and enjoy what we once could only brew. 6) With more people working, there is less time to brew. There is almost a perfect correlation to the unemployment rate to the interest in "how to brew" google searches. Most businesses go through this cycle and it will come back around with more interest developing again in short order. When that does happen we will have this forum, Facebook, our site and continue to look at all options where people want to be contacted. This forum is not going anywhere soon. We will continue to upgrade and maintain. We will continue to engage when needed and point new brewers here to get their answers. Please continue to be the warm and engaging group that you all are.
  3. 9 points
    My all-grain English Pale Ale 1-gallon Kit I brewed in March is ready. And the results of the first bottle are: Success! Wow, I can't believe I'm doing this. First goodness with the MRB 1776 and now Success with the no-name brand EPA. This beer is very pale, smooooth, hoppy, and well-carbonated. I'm a happy brewer right now. Thank you to all of you that helped out when I was doing this batch - @RickBeer, @Jdub, @BDawg62, @Nickfixit, @Shrike, @Bonsai & Brew, @D Kristof, and @StretchNM (that's me). Yes, I went through the old thread to find everybody who gave advice and encouragement. Thank you. Despite the sloppy instructions that came with the Kit, we made it work. Pretty dang cool. I would definitely brew this beer again. And again. I guess I'm going to have to break out my pilsner glass for this brew. I know, my logo and labeling needs work. But that's about as professional as I need to be ((( )))
  4. 9 points
    @MRB-Rick Thank you for your post. Knowing that our concerns are relevant to Mr. Beer and that you have addressed them is good for us all. Also the update to our perceived lack of participation in this forum is wonderful. Knowing that the questions that we have spent a lot of time answering are still providing help is awesome. Even though I no longer brew with Mr. Beer products, I use this forum to help those who like me are starting out their journey with Mr. Beer. I hope that somehow my answers and the answers of others here have kept some brewers in the hobby that would have left otherwise. Your post alone will make me continue to check this forum every day as I have always done. Prost, Dawg
  5. 7 points
    Here are some excellent tips for brewing and getting the result you want. I do not adhere to these to - my misfortune - I am attention deficit so try very different things each time (usually) (Sometimes I make multiple brews with very slight differences but not often.) Still, this is a good read. Also note the fermentation temperatures! https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/4-trappist-brewing-tips-from-spencer-trappist-brewery/
  6. 7 points
    Write down everything. Write down everything. Write down everything. 😀
  7. 7 points
    HOME BREW RECIPE: Title: Alaskan Amber Clone Author: Web+ modifications Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: American Amber Ale Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 6.5 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.043 Efficiency: 70% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.056 Final Gravity: 1.013 ABV (standard): 5.69% IBU (tinseth): 35.3 SRM (morey): 10.59 Mash pH: 5.62 FERMENTABLES: 9 lb - Pale 2-Row (80%) 1 lb - Caramel / Crystal 10L (8.9%) 0.5 lb - Caramel / Crystal 120L (4.4%) 0.5 lb - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (4.4%) 4 oz - Rice Hulls (2.2%) HOPS: 1 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 28.29 1 oz - Saaz, Type: Pellet, AA: 3.5, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 7.02 MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Sparge, Temp: 150 F, Time: 60 min Starting Mash Thickness: 1.6 qt/lb YEAST: White Labs - German Ale/ Kölsch Yeast WLP029 Starter: Yes Form: Liquid Attenuation (avg): 75% Flocculation: Medium Optimum Temp: 65 - 69 F Fermentation Temp: 65 F Pitch Rate: 0.35 (M cells / ml / deg P)
  8. 6 points
    Administrators you can choose to remove this post if inappropriate Gentlemen, Here is a recipe for a simple Blueberry Mead that I demonstrated last night for my brew club. Note: if you were to ferment this in one of your LBKs, I would probably not use it again for beer since the aroma will be impossible to remove. Also, you could substitute any flavor of Knudsen Juice for this recipe. Simple Blueberry Mead 1 gallon Batch (finished) Recipe 2 – 32oz bottles of Knudsen Blueberry Juice 4# - Honey (any variety) 1 – 5gm pkt of Lalvin 71B yeast 6.25 gm – Go Ferm Protect 6 gm – Fermaid O (4 additions of 1.5gm at 24hr, 48hr, 72hr and 1/3 sugar break) Instructions 1. Mix together the juice and honey and mix until honey is completely incorporated 2. Top off with water to 1.25 gallon mark 3. Rehydrate yeast in 125ml (about 4oz) 95 to 105 degree water with Go Ferm dissolved 4. Pitch yeast after rehydration 5. For first 7 days, degas every 12 hours to remove excess carbon dioxide 6. Add 1.5 gm of Fermaid O per schedule above (use Tosna 2.0 to determine actual requirements) be sure to degas prior to this step, you will make a mess otherwise. 7. After approximately 2 to 3 weeks (when gravity is stable) transfer clear mead into a secondary container. 8. At transfer add .38gm of Potassium Metabisulfate and 1/2 tsp of Potassium Sorbate 9. After another 3 to 4 weeks transfer clear mead to a 1 gallon jug and age for another 1 to 3 months. 10. Bottle and then age to your liking. Mead is ready to drink at bottling but benefits from aging from 6 months to a year.
  9. 6 points
    Gentlemen, This mead recently received a bronze medal at a competition. Ciders and meads were combined in the category and it was the only mead to medal.
  10. 6 points
  11. 6 points
    Some people say the number one rule in brewing is sanitation. I thinks its "know what youre doing, and why youre doing it" You technically don't know if your beer is done fermenting until you take a gravity reading. I would also add that you can do a fairly simple diacytel test at home to ensure the beer is ready to be packaged. If the beer is done at day 7 and also tastes good and passes the diacytel test, then its good to package. It will not harm it to go another week or even two. So, yes, another reading at day 14 is pointless. But remember, attenuation (average % of sugars a yeast will eat) is only an average. Two readings are needed to prove the yeast is done eating. Keep in mind some yeasts are notorious for stalling out at any point and may test the same for days before finishing the job. Im an honest man. I only kinda go by days fermenting. But Ive also been doing this for almost 6 years. Every beer ive ever made has produced a krausen of varying degrees. Some much more larger than others. I pitch yeast, ferment, krausen appers for days then it falls. when it falls, I raise the temp for a day or three until im ready to keg. Keep in mind I keg, It wont explode like bottles would if you aren't careful. I generally go no less than 14 days because I try to only do brewing things on the weekend. So 14 days fits right into my schedule. If I don't get to it, then ill go 21 days. Doesn't affect the beer in the slightest. Also remember that dry hopping kicks up another mini fermentation, so don't dry hop and then bottle immediately. Know what youre doing and why youre doing it. US-04 is usually a quick mover but if your krausen fell yesterday then its probably not ready. Temperature is a tool, and also a measurement in brewing. At 65 degrees things happen fast. At 35 they happen slow. At 75 they happen too fast for most ales. Don't cold crash until youre sure the beer is done because youll either a) get exploding bottles due to imcomplete fermentation or b) lock in undesirable flavors. Carb the beer for 4 weeks and then decide what you want to do from there. Cold storage will preserve flavors and keep beers fresh while keeping your stored bottles at 70 degrees will age them for the better or worse. Its been a long time since I posted any useful advice. That's why Im goin on a tangent
  12. 5 points
    I have the grains for a chocolate ale waiting, perhaps trying to squeeze in a brew day on Sunday. It's going to be a busy weekend, though. I first have to find time to transfer the oatmeal stout to the secondary because I want to dry bean some coffee. And I need the fermenter.
  13. 5 points
    my wda is a success. i bottled on tuesday 11/12 after cold crashing for 3 days. filled 10 750ml bottles and i had about 8 oz left over. it had a great taste. i'll try the trub bottle after 4 weeks. thanks for all the help folks, i was close to tossing this batch.
  14. 5 points
    Boy i tell you, this week... unexpected $800 car bill, my toilet is clogged, we got put on mandatory overtime, ITS WINTER ALL OF A SUDDEN. All these things dragging me down. But then the ups man shows up with an early xmas present from a friend and theres two beer kits in the box. Things are looking up
  15. 5 points
    Brewed my FREE MB WDA yesterday (expiration Nov 2019). What a monster fermentation after just 24 hours. Looking forward to a really yummy beer. Have not brewed in a few months, but now is the season!
  16. 5 points
    I ran across this 2017 Mr Beer article and while there are many hops not on this list, it's a great reference list that might help tickle your thought process when choosing your hops whether your brewing extract or AG. https://www.mrbeer.com/blog/post/aroma-hops-bittering-hops-dual-purpose-hops
  17. 5 points
    This is definitely true. My brewery only brews Belgian styles and we step mash every recipe, but 1 (our Belgian style IPA). Most recipes go through 2 rests, but our wit has 3 rests. Step mashing is also very beneficial when brewing single malt beers because it adds complexity and depth to the base grain you're using. Step mashing basically utilizes different enzymes to break down different starches into sugars. Single infusion mash beers are only utilizing 1 enzyme because the other enzymes were destroyed above certain temps. But by stepping your mash at different temps for different time periods, you are utilizing more types of enzymes, which also results in better mash efficiency and better attenuation in the end.
  18. 5 points
    Making this beer this weekend. Sub extract for 4lbs wheat and 4lbs pilsner. Also sub hallertau for liberty. The LHBS was out. Never used this yeast before, i have always used omegas hefe yeast in the past.
  19. 5 points
    I'm on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" band wagon. I've been doing the 3 weeks fermentation/4 week carbonation, 3 days cold crash. My beer has been turning out very good. I would be afraid to change my process now.
  20. 5 points
    The more craft beers I try the more I realize I usually prefer my homebrews.
  21. 5 points
    Next up will be a APA. I have my grist and water treatments set in Beersmith, but still adjusting my hops schedule. Originally I was just going with Mosaic and Amarillo, but I'm thinking that could turn out too sweet and fruity without some counterpoint, so I'm going to add Simcoe into the hops schedule as well. IBU's will be about 50. SRM 9.5 and ABV 5.5-6%. My batch will be 4.75 gal full volume BIAB. That's about the most I can do in my 7.5 gal kettle without having to deal with top off water calculations. My grist will be Maris Otter, Munich, Vienna, Crystal 40, and Wheat. Hops will be a 60, 30, 10, and flameout additions with no dry hop. Yeast US-05
  22. 5 points
    That might be me. I started out steeping four oz of carapils when brewing non partial mash recipes. I did this to help with head retention and body, and also because the addition of steeped/mashed grains seems to alleviate or even eliminate the dreaded "extract twang". Because of how it's malted, conventional wisdom is that there are no starches remaining in carapils that can be converted into fermentable sugars , so it doesn't add ABV. Kedogn and I were discussing this on here and he linked to an article that showed through experimentation that almost 20% of potential fermentable sugars can remain in carapils after malting. So I thought "Hey, that's potential ABV going to waste with every brew. SACRILEGE!" So I decided to start adding some 2-row along with the carapils. Two reasons for this: first, during mashing, the enzymes in the 2-row will convert some of the remaining starches in the carapils into sugars, and second, because 2-row is cheap so why not? 😁 Is it really making a big difference? Probably not. But if there are potential fermentables going to waste, I figure why not try and take advantage of them. So I now when I brew a beer that isn't a PM I mash four oz of carapils with two ounces of 2-row.
  23. 5 points
    This one's for you, @MiniYoda. I've never been to Kentucky but they tell me that this was a popular style back in the day. Hop times are 45, 15 and 5 minutes. This tasty all-grainer turned out great but I'll find out at Sunday's Lost Cabin Homebrew comp if it appealed to BJCP judges. Entered in the historical category, they will probably group it with other Amber/Common-type beers for judging. I'll follow up with a score then. 🍻 Dark Cream Ale (2-gallon, Mash-in-Sack) Rahr 6-row, 2.25 lb. Flaked corn, 1 lb. Briess Victory malt, 0.12 lb. Briess Crystal 60, 0.12 lb. Weyermann Carafa II (Special), 0.04 lb. Mt. Hood, 0.25 oz. Cluster, 0 25 oz. Mt. Hood, 0 25 oz. Safale K-97 German Ale yeast Step mash grains 20 min. @ 132 F followed by 40 min. @ 152 F, adjusting pH to 5.3 with lactic acid (if necessary). Mash out @ 168 F for 10 min. Sprinkle sparge grain bag with hot tap water. Begin 45 min. boil, hopping as indicated. Chill wort to < 70 F. Pitch K-97, areate, and ferment cool for 2 weeks. Cold crash is optional. OG 1.043 IBU 19 SRM 12-14 ABV 4.5 - 5%
  24. 4 points
    planning on brewing an APA in the morning. should be good weather. the only obstacle will be the wife and potential honey do's since i'm off tomorrow. #homebrewproblems
  25. 4 points
    Goingfrom memory, wasn't Anthony a middle age high school English teacher? I hope he didn't get into trouble (he didn't seem the type. How many wild English teachers have you known ) or suffer a health issue. Hoping somebody lurking or Anthony himself can enlighten us.
  26. 4 points
    Not my recipe, just whats up next. Steep - 0.25 lbs Briess Caramel 80L - 0.25 lbs Fawcett Pale Chocolate - 0.125 lbs Black Malt LME-DME - 6 lbs Amber malt syrup - 1 lbs Amber dry malt extract Hops - 1 oz US Goldings (60 min) - 1 oz Liberty (45 min) - 1 oz Willamette (15 min) Yeast Danstar Windsor
  27. 4 points
    I was thinking to myself today "cant you sneak in a brew day during the week? I mean the pipeline is awfully low". So I said, Self, that's a damn good idea. Went home, drew up a recipe fpr a simple 5 gallon BIAB. Prepare tomorrow, Brew on Wednesday. Well, then my phone buzzed and an event was added to the family calendar. Apparently my wife will be with my sister tomorrow night, kids will be at my parents so of course Ill be brewing tomorrow. Salts are measured, kettle is clean, grains are milled, should be set. Oh hell yeah!!!
  28. 4 points
    I remember last year, one day i walked out in the yard and it smelled like woodstock 1969. Thats when i knew they were ready. I havent had that with this years crop but i havent been over by them twice a day, staring, shining a flashlight at night, telling them bed time stories like i did last year. Im either gonna use gulo ale yeast, saisonsteins monster or 05 if i have it. Gulo would be nice, that stuff cranks out a beer in days. I input the recipe in beersmith, i figured 3 oz of each hop at 30 minutes would be good. Im at 92 ibus. I hope thats not accurate
  29. 4 points
    I want smell-o'vision so bad!!!
  30. 4 points
    not brewing till next weekend, but went to LHBS today and got the parts for a 4 gallon batch of all grain Hopslam clone. lots of hops bought today.
  31. 4 points
    Agreed 100%. Reinheitsgebot was implemented with only three ingredients in mind - water, barley, and hops. Yeast was yet to be discovered 500 years ago, yet we now know there are many varieties of them and how much they impact beer. So to be in compliance with the original law, you'd have to brew a lambic. But other than "because I want to make a 'pure' beer", what reason is there to comply with Reinheitsgebot? Why does the definition of "purity" as assigned to beer by some 16th Century minor Bavarian government bureaucrat matter? One of the three driving reasons behind the law was to ensure that grains more valuable for use in bread - mainly wheat and rye - weren't "wasted" brewing beer. So Reinheitsgebot can more accurately be viewed as a "Bread Preservation and Anti-Starvation Law" than as a "Beer Purity Law". Additionally, Reinheitsgebot was not just about "purity" of ingredients and protecting the grains used in bread. For some reason that seems to be the only part of the law ever discussed. But there were other parts of the law: the German government setting the price of beer... and far more importantly the taxation rate of beer. So Reinheitsgebot essentially was the government telling brewers "You can only use these particular ingredients because we want better grains to go to other uses, you can only charge this amount per beer, and this is the amount you'll be paying us to sell your beer." Plus, Reinheitsgebot is no guarantee of quality. I was fortunate enough to spend almost nine years living in Germany. There are many great beers that comply. There are many crap beers that also comply. There are many great beers that DON'T comply...and also crap beers that don't. Some German styles that don't comply with Reinheitsgebot, and the styles are world-renowned: Hefeweizen, Roggenbier, Gose, Dunkelweizen, and Berliner Weisse. IMNSHABHAO (In my not so humble and borderline haughtily arrogant opinion) and not trying to denigrate the OP's intent, complying with Reinheitsgebot is more about bragging than anything else. I look at it this way: Belgian brewers have been crafting absolutely amazing beers for centuries caring not a bit about "German purity laws".
  32. 4 points
    LME and DME are made from grain, so they comply with Reinheitsgebot. Mr. Beer HMEs contain LME, and hops, and complies. Beer uses yeast (definitional). There is nothing about brewing a Mr. Beer can of HME that is not compliant. Some Mr. Beer recipes add adjuncts, those would not be compliant. Unclear if OP wants to comply with Reinheitsgebot, or simply brew all grain.
  33. 4 points
    I'll go with a local craft beer when i am out at a restaurant, if they have any. Some are very good, and I like to support "Local" small brewers. At home I drink my own, mainly because i made them the way I like, and they mostly turn out great. Plus, I like the hobby of brewing. On the issue of MB changing the fermentation and carbonation times, I bet it is to help those new brewers get a beer done in less than two months (which is typical for me). They will still get beer, and mostly it will be fine.
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