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D Rock

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About D Rock

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    Brewmaster in Training

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  1. beerfanfrombuffalo wrote: On average, how much ABV does the DME add? Let me get my notes, but maybe 37 points per pound.... Hold on...Arrgh.. I was way off... (probably meant 47).. Most dry malt extract will add 45 pppg. PPPPG = Points Per Pound per Gallon. In other words, if you add one pound of DME to enough water to make one gallon of wort, you will end up with one gallon of 1.045 wort Sooo... that means in a Mr Beer batch, one pound of DME will add 21 (1.021 SG) points of gravity (45 divided by 2.13 gallons)...
  2. Yeah, ok, I did not read all four pages... But, Hey Kenny! Howz Jocko been??? Had to chase down any UPS Drivers lately?
  3. Hey guys, sorry for my long absence. Thought I would try and check up on posts. This thread seems to need a couple of comments... jopa wrote: I am fermenting a batch of ADIPA ( two weeks today). I just did a hydrometer reading and it read between 1.01 and 1.02. Is it safe to bottle?. It did not taste sweet to me. There is a big difference between 1.010 and 1.020. Most hydrometers will have 5 hash marks between those 2 numbers, each representing .002 degrees of gravity. Generally you would only shorthand to 1.01 or 1.02 if you were reading 1.010 or 1.020. There are 10 Gravity units between the two. I would say that if it did not taste sweet to you and tasted like warm, flat beer -bottle it up. ronnydobbs wrote: If you need practice reading the hydrometer, just pop it into a glass of water and check the reading there. I believe it should be at 1.000 give or take a point or three for temperature. Always important to calibrate your equipment. A hydrometer should read 1.000 in 60 degree distilled water. Measure it and note if it is off. Add or subtract the difference to your readings and adjust for temp. Qbrew or BeerSmith will adjust for temp for you and I am sure that their are on line calculators for temperature adjustment. haerbob3 wrote: I second that with needing help. I too just bought a Hydrometer, fermenting (12 days now, tastes like flat beer, but it is still cloudy) Pilothouse Pilsner my reading is 1.02. Does any one what the final gravity should be? I tried Qbrew and it say I should be around 1.048 Not sure why you are getting that entering the Pilothouse into QBrew. But, I get a Original Gravity of 1.044 and a Final Gravity of 1.012. Someone could check my numbers on that.
  4. Graphic76 wrote: My plan is to boil 2 cups of oats, and some hertallu hops... A Hallertau addition would be fine. It would be a nice offset to the added DME. What are you hoping to achieve with steeping oats for an Oktoberfest??? I do not see how that addition is to style... If you use the S-23, are you set up to ferment at Lager Temps?Edit: Thought you were suggesting Amber DME. Re-read and saw that you purposed Dark. I think that you are going to go into a too roasty zone using that if your goal is an Oktoberfest....
  5. Brewing Classic Styles is a must. However, for a more in depth discussion of of what constitutes the attributes of the majority styles, Ray Daniel's Designing Great Beers is a must have.
  6. I vote screw the Mini-Mash. If you can do a full wort boil, build a tun and forget about mini/partial mash. ericg wrote: I don't know if there is a "single, one-size-fits-all" mash routine, but if I were forced to pick only one method to do for the rest of my life, it would be the single infusion mash... Build yourself a 5 gallon tun for about $50 and go all grain. You can keep the batch size and fermenter the same. I have many recipes to prove that point. Although, my style does not match your style, I would be more than willing to work with you in developing recipes within your style guidelines on AG Batches for the MB Fermenter....
  7. scottykalltheway wrote: D-Rock's AG oatmeal stout recipe came out awesome! I am beyond happy with the taste..it is better than any partial mash or Mr. Beer recipe I have made so far, which is obviously what i was going for.. Yay! Great to hear!!! I love that recipe and I should not take too much credit for it, as it is based on Jamil's Brewing Classic Styles recipe. But, even though he started out with Mr Beer, he has never sized this recipe for the Little Brown Keg...As to your head issues... I really do not expect much head from English style Ales. You are probably hoping for what you get with a properly poured Guinness, served off of a Nitrogen Tap. Irregardless, love to get feedback on recipes that I have posted and, of course, it is great to get positive feedback! : D Rock leaves to investigate if he has one of these in the back of the fridge :
  8. BeerSmith Rocks! FYI, Brad Smith just released a series of How To Videos... Beersmith Software Video Tutorials PcolaMike at that"other" site put some work into making a .BSM for Mr Beer Ingriedients... Mr Beer BSM. I think that it is based on the original Jkarp Qbrew Database, so there may be some discrepancies, but it is a good starting point...
  9. I vote that a new fermenter is ten bucks. Dispose of properly and replace. I have fought the Infected Fermenter Demon and the Infected Fermenter Demon won...
  10. Well, that is kind of a complicated and yet simple question... 2 Row Barley is 2 Row Barley. The geographical region in which it is grown will contribute to its overall character. The process of Malting employed by individual Maltsters will also contribute to its overall character. Geographically, you will find little discernible difference between 2 Row that is grown in similar locales. The malting processes are also going to be so similar that you would be hard pressed to define a difference in character. So, Rhar and Briess are going to be VERY similar and not too different than Grambrinus. UK 2 Row tends to have a slightly higher Lovibond rating and a slightly Breadier taste. But, you are not going to find much discernible difference between a 2 Row Malted by Crisp and a 2 Row malted by Simpsons. I tend to use North American 2 Row, as I tend to brew American ales, IPAs and Ambers. I use Rhar because my LHBS does not carry 50 pound bags of Briess 2 Row. If I am going to brew a British style beer, I will buy some Crisp Marris Otter or Crisp Pale. If my LHBS carried Fawcett or Munton's Marris Otter, that is what I would use. Bottom line, use what is available to you. If you are brewing an American Beer, buy North American 2 Row. If you are brewing an English Ale, buy UK 2 Row. There really is not a Maltster in business that routinely puts out an inferior product. Remember, the Maltsters do not exist for Home Brewers, these guys are providing the Malt to all of the major breweries in the world and have to put out a top notch product. If you have product available to you from many different Maltsters, experiment and find out if you have a preference. A BYO article for you...
  11. Nice Grist. Love Amarillo. Zero experience with Pacifca! Yeah, BU:GU is low for an APA, but it is your beer and it looks like you are brewing what you like. Overall, it looks like a very sound recipe! Let us know how it turns out.
  12. bigdave3124 wrote: It might be a little unpredictable... +1 Best to do a full Wort boil. But, if you can not do an equipment upgrade -and any brewer should upgrade to a pot large enough to do a full wort boil, if the want to do more than an extract kit- you will have beer and it will probably be a good beer...
  13. SiriusDG wrote: Their site does not specify which hops they use. Are your recommendations based on style, or are they specific to Blue Moon based on your own insight? Based on insight. It has been awhile since I have had a Blue Moon. But, I do not recall noting Cascades. It is just my opinion that a Wit should be brewed with Nobles or at least European Hops. At the same time, a Wit really should not have much of a hop profile. Just enough to offset the malts and really some random herbs for the malt offset as well. But, like I said, its been a bit since I have had a Blue Moon, so maybe it does not have a traditional Wit Profile...
  14. The grist looks fine to me. If you wanted to drop the Wheat LME, just up your Malted Wheat to get to the same OG. Malted Wheat has plenty of diastatic power, so no problem there. The choice of Cascades seems odd to me. A Wit really should not have much of a hop profile. I would go with Hallertau or Saaz. But, thats your call.
  15. D Rock

    Gruit Beer

    Brewing a Gruit with Mr Beer would obviously involve using nothing but the UMEs. I would suggest looking at the darker UMEs, as Gruit was probably not very Pale. I do have a Mr beer size recipe for a Gruit that I created. I have not brewed it yet. But will be doing so soon... Recipe: Vern Pad Gruit Brewer: D Train Brewery Asst Brewer: Ninkasi Style: Wormwood Gruit Type: All Grain Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Batch Size: 9.10 L (2.40 gal) Boil Size: 12.50 L (3.30 gal) Estimated OG: 1.056 SG Estimated FG: 1.015 SG Estimated ABV: 5.41 % Estimated Color: 20.4 SRM Brewhouse Efficiency: 61.00 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ 1600.00 gm (3.53 lb) Maris Otter (Crisp) (4.0 SRM) 59.26 % 550.00 gm (1.21 lb) Smoked Malt (Weyermann) (2.0 SRM) 20.37 % 300.00 gm (10.6 oz) Munich 10L (Briess) (10.0 SRM) 11.11 % 250.00 gm (8.81 oz) Extra Dark Crystal (Simpsons) (155.0 SRM) 9.26 % 6.00 gm (0.21 oz) Wormwood (Boil 60.0 min) 1 Pkg SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04) Mash: ---------------------------- Total Grain Weight: 2700.00 gm (5.95 lb) Tun Temperature: 149.0 F Grain Temperature: 72.0 F Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Mash In: Add 7.49 L (1.98 gal) of water at 165.2 F to achieve 154.0 F ~ 60 min Sparge Volume/Temperature: 8.66 L (2.29 gal) @ 168.1 F Batch Sparge Round 1: Sparge with 1.94 L (0.51 gal) of 168.1 F water Batch Sparge Round 2: Sparge with 6.73 L (1.78 gal) of 168.1 F water My thinking is to use Marris Otter as my Base to get a little bready into the mix. Some smoked malt to replicate a wort boiled over an open fire. Some more bready with some Munich to replicate what I feel, with the Otter, will represent the under modified malts that would have been used. I decided against Dark Roasted Malts and went instead with a very darkly kilned Crystal. The thinking being that the original Gruits probably had a less than highly fermentable wort and plenty of residual sweetness. Going by a lot of gut feel on this one...I will reiterate. I have not brewed this and it is just conceptual....
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