Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

SweetLuu

Community Members
  • Content Count

    1,073
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About SweetLuu

  • Rank
    Brewmaster
  1. Learn from my mistake. I got the brilliant idea to lager in a secondary LBK this past summer to save on space in my fridge and ended up choking down 10 gallons of sour, winey, cidery,alcoholic beverage that I wouldn't even call beer. It's best to ferment LBK in a large Coleman or Igloo type cooler. Put a stickon thermometer in it so you can moniter it, changing ice bottles every 24 hours to keep temp at low-mid 50's. After around 3 weeks let the temp rise to 70F for a few days to a week, then bottle & carb as usual. Finally, make room in a fridge so you can lager it inthe bottles for a minimum of a month, 2 months is even better, and if you have the patience to wait 3 you will cry it will taste so good. Good luck!
  2. mnstarzz13 wrote: D Rabbit wrote: Trollby wrote: So did you do a 90 min boil? (3omin hot break then 60min hops) Break was only about 3-4 minutes. Than started my 60 minute boil. Never knew about a 90 minute boil. I set up the recipe as a 60 minute boil. I don't see very man recipes that need a 90 minute boil. There is very little gained from doing that, in my opinion, unless you are trying to extend your hops and get a little extra bittering from them. only reason I did a 90 (but 60 hop boil) was due to this thread I was reading a while back that GWCR and Kealia were discussing DMS coming from low lovobond 2-row. And since I buy the cheapest stuff at 1.5L I went ahead. I was taught at a homebrew club meeting to boil Pilsner Malt for 90min to remove DMS, but they said 60 was fine for standard 2-row pale. I've been boiling all brews for 90min though just for the reason of concentrating the wort more so I can add more cold water at the end to cool down to pitch temp quicker.
  3. bpgreen wrote: Long time no see, Sweetluu. Welcome back. Good to see you're still here. :chug:
  4. I boil DME for 15 min when I brew with it. When I use it to carbonate I only boil it for 10-15 seconds. Just a tip, I used to put the DME in a bowl and slowly add water until I get the consistancy of pancake batter, then pouring it into the wort. I've found that it's not necessary though, and just dirtys more dishes. Now I just dump it in. As long as I remove the kettle completely from the heat source before adding, I've never had a problem with it sticking and scorching on bottom. As for your other questions, it depends on your taste. If it was me, I'd boil 1/2 oz. Palisade for 60min, 1/2 oz. for 15min, and a 1/2 oz. for 1min. That'd be a nice Irish Blonde.
  5. Good post. I brew a Kolsch a kinda love. If you're unable to control the temps that low, it will still turn out great if you can ferment low-mid 60'sF and lager in fridge for 2+ months after carbonantion. I hope this helps anyone who isn't equipped to ferment cold. It's no reason to miss out on this great style. Brew now, and drink in May or June.
  6. Hello fellow brewers! Just thought I'd pipe in with my thoughts on commercial brews. I like them. Some of my favorites are Guiness, Spaten, and Pilsner Urquell. As far as the U.S. commercial brews go, I'd rather not spend my hard earned greenbacks on them. I do routinely brew similar American Lager & Pilsner styles, incorporating the adjucts rice or corn, except I double or triple the hops from the style guidelines. Classic American styles are not my favorite, but they have a place, and if you're a hop head like me it's possible to make a watered down guzzeler even your homebrew club buddies will appreciate as a fine lawnmower beer. Cheers!
  7. I would think the cooler would be better. I've been brewing lagers all summer and we've had 5 heat waves so far. The room temp is mid to upper 70's during the heat wave, even with AC, but my coolers stay cold. The better insulated newer Igloo chest maintains 50-54F over a period of 24 hours with 3L of ice. The older, thinner Coleman needs 5.5-6L to do the same. :chug: It helps to have a dedicated freezer for ice. I use the freezer on my beer fridge.
  8. Straining the beer through a wire mesh strainer before going into the fermenter works. That's why they sell them at the LHBS. I got my double mesh strainer at a flea market for $2. It's paid for itself many times over in money saved on hopsacks.
  9. skydvr wrote: SweetLuu wrote: I'll most likely use 1/2 pack of Saflager 34/70 since it's a 2.5 gallon batch. Lagers tend to require a heavier pitch - you might want to use the whole packet. Unless you're doing a starter. But, just my .02. And as far as "dark pilsner" - people call certain brews a "dark ipa" or "black ipa" - dark pale, dark pilsen, it's all beer. I've used a 1/2 pack of dry lager yeast on every Mr Beer sized lager I've ever made, and rehydrating the yeast in warm water before pitching is usually enough to get fervent activity within 24 hours.
  10. If you want to experiment with priming give DME a try, you won't be dissapointed. Tastybrew.com has a brewing calculator to find out how much to use. There's a recipe in "Clone Brews" for a Maple Wheat Ale that incorporates maple syrup to carb. I know neither of these suggestions are fruit, but are tried and true methods to experiment with.
  11. I call it a Pilsner because to me a Euro Pilsner is much hoppier than a than a Euro Lager. Your point is well taken and perhaps it's more of a Munich Dunkel than a Pilsner especially since there is no Pilsner Malt. Originally, I was going to go all Saaz hops, I guess that's why in my mind I was thinking "Dark Pilsner". Anywho, it's just a name. When I brew a particular style, I usually just label it the style, but since this recipe doesn't really fall within any particular style guidelines I decided to call it VLAD THE IMPALER or THE DARK KNIGHT. :chug:
  12. It sounds like your brew could have used some hops to balance it out.
  13. 1/4 oz. Sterling + 1/4 oz. Mt Hood @ EACH of the flavor/aroma additions...15min left, 3min left, & secondary.: 1.5oz. altogether not counting the 15g for bittering. I'll most likely use 1/2 pack of Saflager 34/70 since it's a 2.5 gallon batch.
  14. I'm torn between VLAD THE IMPALER & THE DARK KNIGHT Here's the recipe for 2.5 gallon AG: 4.5 lb Munich Malt 73g CaraAroma 32g Carafa III 15g Sterling (60min) 1/4 oz each Sterling & Mt Hood (15min, 3min & dry hopped) Lager yeast IBU's should be somewhere in the low 40's. Any thoughts on the name?
×
×
  • Create New...