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Everything posted by LowTech

  1. Add some hops to the Bewitched! Very malty and caramel without some xtra bitterness, ya know? Trifle not with the HCCD, but add some Munich malt to the OVL...
  2. This isn't exactly an advanced recipe but for those of you who know: HCCD is great as a base for many light SRM recipes from Mr Beer. I was checking my spreadsheet and this is my first ferment since Dec. 12th. Shite...2 weeks ago I struggled with my mash temps but Saturday will be bottling day. It just smells done so I am sanitizing some SN bottles tomorrow. Don't even care if the gravity is spot on (yeah, right, I'll be checking). The aroma tells me that the 8 grams of fromunder yeast has performed well and the temps have been varying between 64-69F. Pitched at 68. Here's the export: HCCD with Victory ----------------- Brewer: LowTech Batch: 2.40 galPartial Mash Recipe Gravity: 1.054 OG Recipe Bitterness: 34 IBU Recipe Color: 8° SRM Alcohol by Volume: 5.2% Light DME 1.00 lb, Extract MrB. Booster 0.78 lb, Sugar MrB. High Country Canadian Draft1.21 lb, Extract Victory Malt 0.22 lb, Grain, Mashed Centennial 0.25 oz, Pellet, 30 minutes Centennial 0.25 oz, Pellet, 7 minutes MrB. High Country Canadian Draft1.00 oz, Pellet, 5 minutes Ale yeast 4.00 units Finings 1.00 unit Generic 1.00 unit This one is a 'light beer' for my understanding wife. I haven't told her that the 3 month wait begins tomorrow... Bwahahahahahaaaaaa! Ya'll take care and PMASH if you can...
  3. I made a version back in March '09. Look for any threads with 'deja voodoo' in the title or body. My notes from back then say 'very cidery'. I tried the first one after only 24 hours in the fridge (after 2 weeks carbing). The off flavors are understandable. Let 'em age and you will be very pleased... Looking at my notes, this one needs a revisit. Holy Cow, it was batch number 2...!!??
  4. mashani wrote: I'm a hop head too, but for a porter I'd probably stick with fuggles or willamette or goldings for just a touch more bitterness and to add aroma and flavor... I'd save my cascade (or amarillo, citra, centennial, etc.) for a black IPA that didn't have an abundance of roasty malts in it. But that's just me, who knows it might be good with cascade. It will still be beer! Yep, save the cascade, try some goldings or even northern brewer in that porter. :stout:
  5. Did you dry hop one fermenter and not the other? One time I had what looked like another fermentation occur after adding a dry hop. It caused nucleation and a brand new froth appeared...
  6. Looks like great carbonation. Keep the pictures coming! :woohoo:
  7. Your rye malt selection needs to be mashed. Look right below HERE and that is a crystal rye. Already converted and ready for you to steep a 'tea'. Mashing is a bit more involved. Controlled water:grain ratio and temperatures... The recipe is great and you will have great results with the S-04. A real jellyfish in the bottom of the keg. Bottling is much clearer. :drinking: Oh, and 1/4 pound of crystal malt is just fine....
  8. LowTech

    5-5-5 IPA

    How about naming it 'Triple Nickel' or 'Triple Wooden Nickel'? The northern brewer hops will have a distinctly woodsy kick. What was your boil size? After 70 minutes of boil time I would have figured some darkening would have happened. Looks like a great recipe! :stout:
  9. I have used a 48 and a 60 quart cooler to ferment. I bought an electronic aquarium thermometer probe that I painter-tape to the side of the keg below the liquid line to monitor temps. The probe lead is long enough to let me set the digital readout on the lid and thin enough that the lid can close but not crimp the lead. Mostly I rotate ice bottles or frozen gel packs to keep the temps below 70F. Once in a while I have to use a microwavable heating pad to get the temps back up if they start getting close to 60F.
  10. Some twist off caps have a whole lot more of the crimps in them, like twice as many. Others you can detect by looking at the cap from the side. You can see if the crimps have a slanted impression that mimics the threads of the glass...Not hard to miss. I harvested about 8 of the Sierra Nevada 12 packs. The labels simply float away after an OxyFree soak but the adhesive is tenacious. The bottle height is perfect for the top shelf of my fridge...It doesn't hurt harvesting anything made by SN, either. Painless.
  11. I've doubled up on HME several times, all with great results. The combo of 2 Bewitched Red and a booster will definitely work. I have added a pound of unhopped malt extract instead of booster and steeped some crystal grains and come up with some real winners. I find the BRA to be a real sweet malt so if the recipe were happening right now in my kitchen I would probably boil some hops for bitterness and flavor. About 7 grams each of your choice of hops. But that's just me. Brew on and let us know the outcome. To be sure, you will have a fine beer. After you bottle, let the beer age for a while before you put a real dent in it. The longer the better.... :stout:
  12. I brewed this one on Dec. 12: OctoVienna Redux ----------------- Brewer: LowTech Style: Belgian Specialty Ale ?? Batch: 2.40 galExtract Characteristics --------------- Recipe Gravity: 1.061 OG Recipe Bitterness: 44 IBU Recipe Color: 17° SRM Estimated FG: 1.015 Alcohol by Volume: 5.9% Ingredients ----------- Crystal 20L 0.22 lb, Grain, Steeped MrB. Octoberfest Vienna Lager 2.42 lb, Extract Munich (US) 1.65 lb, Extract Hallertauer 0.50 oz, Pellet, 15 minutes Hallertauer 0.50 oz, Pellet, 5 minutes MrB. Octoberfest Vienna Lager 2.00 oz, Pellet, 5 minutes Belgian Ale yeast 1.00 unit, Yeast, T-58, 8 grams Finings 1.00 unit, Fining, Irish Moss, .5 tsp Generic 1.00 unit, Other, Wyeast nutrient I chilled one for a day to perform the required CO2 proof. What a treat! The carb is a tad on the high side (used 65 g sugar)but the aroma just hits you full force. Very malty and slight spice but still 'young'. The first taste reveals the T-58 in all it's glory. But it is not center stage. The malt just wraps your tongue in a blanket. The hops near the end of the boil survive but I couldn't really pick out the abundant flavor or aroma I had hoped for. I had a fun bottling day with this batch. Trub-o-rama on the last 3 bottles. But I got 23! Bonus. Gonna put the other 22 out of my mind until I can brew again. Oh, this was my first time using liquid malt extract. The Munich LME came from a store in Raleigh. I had it on hand for waaaay long and I was worried it would not exactly be fresh. I am pleased with the outcome. You will be too, if you try it like this. Chee-yahs!
  13. Pilothouse = an enigmatic brew. My notes from June '09 have the word 'grape' in them. No kidding. Batch 5 for me... I remember how I thought something how had gone terribly wrong (I used the clear cider keg, too, in a cooler). Sanitation, temperatures, holy shmoly. The possible brewer errors were legion as this was only #5. But it is a great beer by it's premium old self. If I was going to do one thing to improve it? I'd be dang sure to let it age for 6 weeks before I put one in the icebox. I mean, I'd sacrifice one to confirm carbonation, ya gotta, ya know?
  14. NuBrewer wrote: What would be the closest Domestic beer flavor of the WCPA so I know what to expect?(I'm a coors light drinker normally) Or is it different all together? -Tim My 3rd batch was West Coast Pale/Pale UME, plus half a Booster. My notes from 18 months ago were not so hot but I did write: "Had one bottle on 05/03. Awesome flavor, not one note of cider.Some bottles seemed sweet". WCPA did not strike me as a 'light' beer, though. Closest domestic? Man, I dunno. It will be good, for you will have made it yourself! :stout:
  15. bbbatv wrote: Thx all....new at this and like the help here.....must ask...why do the directions say bottle 7 days but 2 weeks is better...now everyone says at least 4 weeks Because, yes, you have made beer after 7 days of carbing in the bottle. But, the longer you let it sit unrefrigerated after bottling the better it tastes. The yeast have a chance to work a bit more after producing the bubbles. The flavors just get better because the hops, adjuncts, and malts get better acquainted. :stout:
  16. Palmer says (here ) near the bottom of the page that once the activity is over and the starter has cleared, it's ready. If the starter is a large one pour off most of the liquid and pitch the yeast slurry. I'd pour off the clearish liquid but leave enough to swirl the yeast at the bottom into the remaining mix. Get 'em back into suspension. Then pitch.
  17. Of course, Nong is the source of the technical 'goobies' term. Propers to the Nong!
  18. After rinsing the goobies out I fill the keg to the brim using the leftover One Step and half a scoop of OxyFree. Let it soak for about 3 hours and sahke/rinse, shake/rinse, shake/rinse. OxyFree is da bomb!
  19. Booster dissolves in either hot or cold water. It seems to me, though, that if heated water is stirred as your pour the Booster in it doesn't form as large a clump. Either way, you will stir for a few minutes. Gets your arm in shape for when you aerate the wort after your yeast has rehydrated in the keg...
  20. haerbob3 wrote: here is what Northern use in their PM rye kit: SPECIALTY GRAIN - 3 lbs Rahr 2-row - 1.5 lbs Weyermann Rye Malt - 0.5 lbs Carared Me thinks the CaraRed is the specialty malt in that bill. Sadly, I haven't graduated to PM yet. Still steepin' and pourin' extracts...
  21. Cool Beans! 'at's what I was hoping to hear... thanks, Eric! :drinking: I've tried a few beers lately with rye and I want to start off with just a touch to see if I can get that dry breadiness to come through at the end..
  22. I've a slew of Mr Beer extracts and DME that are just waiting around for me to brew them. Since all the ingredients have been patiently waiting around I have given lots of thought to recipes and different things to try. I haven't read too much about this but thought I'd throw this out there. I almost always steep about 60-100 grams of crystal-something in a 2.4 gallon batch. The one malt I want to try in an IPA is rye. I see on Midwest that there is a crystal rye. Sez that it undergoes the same conversion process as other crystal malts. Has anyone else used a crystal rye? It does not need to be mashed, right? Salud!
  23. There are a few indicators that fermentation is taking place. Most of the time there will be a layer of foam (krausen) on the surface, sometimes appearing a few hours after you pitch the yeast. That layer of foam can take a day or 2 to show up, though. Even if the krausen doesn't show up there can be evidence of fermentation. If you look at the bottom of the keg there will be a layer of sediment (trub), kinda tan in color. That's spent yeast and proteins that have settled out. If you have a strong enough flashlight, place it against one corner of the keg and look for bubbles here and there. That's CO2 rising from fermentation. Another 'proof of life'... :stout:
  24. Step away from the fermenter...Looks like a great recipe that should be left to its own devices...Let it go for a full 2 weeks or better. Have a seat at the keyboard and keep posting!
  25. Should be ok. The instructions say to add to the keg but this ain't like launching the space shuttle. Nature occasionally allows some slack. Especially where yeast are involved. Perhaps the only effect will be that the you will have great beer. Didja sanitize the blender you pureed with? Since you added the fruit at flameout maybe there is a slight loss of fruit aroma. RDWHAHB. I've never used fruit but many others have remarked that the fermenting stage will be vigorous with fruit. You might see some stuff rise to the lid or even escape.
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