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VTGroff

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  1. "haerbob3" post=388649 said:I use a 12" bazooka kettle screen and a strainer across the fermenter. For normal beers I just go commando with the hops. When brewing beers that require huge hop amounts, generally over 8 oz, I use XL grain bags. Yes, you often will need more than one. You do not to overfill the bags. Give the hops plenty of room to expand. I think I had the 6" bazooka screen. For me that got clogged by pellet hops almost immediately. I did some research and found they really only recommend leaf hops for that. Maybe the 12" works better.
  2. "Gymrat" post=387779 said: "BlackDuck" post=387778 said:I've done the hopsack on the end of the tubing before with good success. I made sure that it was soaked with sanitizer first, then squeezed it to wring out as much of it as possible. I secured mine to the tube with a sanitized zip tie making sure the top of the bag was as close to the end of the tube as I could get it. This gave ample room for the bag to collect the floaties. I didn't use any weights to keep it down. I just made sure that I had plenty of tubing so it would reach all the way to the bottom of the bottling bucket (keg in your case). Make sure you completely sanitize the tubing also as it will be immersed in beer by the time you are finished. Too bad you can't cold crash first....I'm thinking that will help tremendously. When I get to my Pliny recipe, I plan on doing this procedure. This is exactly how I did it. Wait, so you guys put your sack on the output of the siphon? Hmmm....I might have to try that next time. I was putting it over the input of the siphon and thought it was introducing a lot of foam/oxygen into the process. Luckily I haven't had any oxidation issues with that batch. I'll definitely have to try putting the sack on the output tube next time when I rack my dry-hopped Belgian-Inspired IPA. Either way beats not filtering dry-hopped pellets. I did that for my IPA and clogged my keg output so bad it required major dis-assembly and re-assembly at least 5 times to clean out the dip tube/poppets/
  3. "FedoraDave" post=388243 said:I bought a stone aerator, but only used it once or twice before deciding it wasn't worth it. Just didn't seem to be getting the job done. Instead, I bought a wine degausser. It fits through the hole in a spare bung, and works with a cordless drill. Just a couple of minutes, and it makes a froth like you wouldn't believe. I wouldn't use anything else now. I'm sure your beer will be fine. I used to use an O2 tank with a stone. Something was up with my regulator or something and I was tearing through a new tank every couple of batches. I was having problems screwing it on and off the tanks, and it was just a big pain. On some BrewStrong Podcast Q&A, Jamil postulated that using pure O2 wasn't as effective as people thought it was, and that using a wine degasser was just as effective for most homebrewers. So, I got one of those to try it and have been making award-winning beer with that method. I personally haven't noticed a difference between that and using Pure O2 in terms of the finished product, so I haven't been inspired to try O2 again. Lots of people who use O2 swear by it, like most things in this hobby it comes down to personal preference. Any perceptible difference in finished product weren't worth the extra effort for me. I just drill, baby, drill. To the OP: You'd be hard pressed to find a homebrewer who hasn't had to go on a "Noodling (i.e. Hillbilly Hand Fishing) Expedition in a chilled batch of wort before. The fact that you're concerned about this at all is proof enough that you took enough precautions to be fine. RDWHAHB :cheers:
  4. "russki" post=388218 said:I have one question - why? I dump everything into the fermenter, gunk and all. It will settle out into the trub anyway. Doesn't hurt nothing I'm the same way. I don't filter at all, brew AG, and hop commando. Everything will settle out at the end of the day. Even more so if you cold crash
  5. "Gymrat" post=383406 said:OK I bought 2 6lb bags of ice for today's trial run with my pond pump. I put it on the bottom of my mash tun after removing the false bottom. I put about a gallon of water in. I ran my chiller on my garden hose until the wort got down to 90. I then unattached the hose and attached the pond pump with 1 bag of ice in the cooler. That got my wort down to 70 in 10 minutes. The ice was gone but the water was still really cold. I poured my second bag of ice in and ran it another 10 minutes. My wort reached 62 degrees and I still had ice in the water. This is absolutely the way to go for me. This is my exact method. Hook the IC to the hose to get the wort down to around 100F, takes about 10 mins. Attach IC to a pump in a bucket of ice water after that. Add 2nd bag of ice after 10 more mins. Wort is low-mid 60s in 30 mins, easy-peasy.
  6. The guy at MyLHBS advised against Camden tablets, so I've never used them. I use a carbon filter in what I think is a modified RV filter housing that attaches to my hose. I just replace the filter cartridge every year or so for about $10.
  7. BYO Published a whole bunch of SN clone recipes in the Dec issue last year, I just dug it up... Your grain bill is pretty spot on, the only appreciable difference is that they use about half the Rye Malt you do. OG in the low 60s Their hop schedule is Bravo at 90, Magnum at 15, Chinook and Magnum at 5, and dry hop with chinook, citra, and magnum. IBU in the mid 50s. All Sierra Nevada beers, for the most part, use the Chico strain (WLP001 or WY1056) - it was named after them. Ruthless is one of my favorite beers. Good Luck!
  8. So, bob, to your original question - neither malt is "better" than the other really. They're just suited for different purposes. US 2 Row Pale is very neutral, that's the point of it. If you're looking for your base malt to bring absolutely nothing to the table, you want to go with US 2 Row Pale. Continental Pilsner Malt brings a grainy, bready character to the table which is very important to certain styles of beer. A third option that you didn't even mention is UK 2 Row pale and/or Maris which has more of a toast character to it. I pick my malts based on what style of beer I'm trying to brew, if trying to brew a style, or what I'm looking to get out of the base if I'm brewing out of style. I'm of the thought that certain malts were selectively cultivated over hundreds or thousands of years in in certain regions, in order to best serve the beer styles of that particular region. So, for my german and belgian styles (incl. most lagers), I use Pilsner malt. For UK styles I use Maris Otter or UK Pale (I use Golden PRomise for Scottish Styles), and for US styles I use US 2 Row. If you're looking to get a "house malt," I would figure out what beer styles you brew the most and then get the base malt best suited for that particular style.
  9. "Screwy Brewer" post=372264 said:I read an interesting article last month about brewers only adding 1/2 an ounce of bittering hops to the kettle for a 60 minute boil, to help prevent hot break, then adding the rest of the bittering additions in the form of flavor and aroma hops. The author claimed this is done by many craft brewers to showcase the malt in the recipe. It seems to make sense to me and it's a completely new concept so of course I'm anxious to try this out on my upcoming wheat beer. It's not gonna be a Single Malt and Single Hop recipe but since the topic of grain flavor came up I thought I'd chime in too. Do you have a link to this article? I'd love to read it...
  10. Did you dry hop your beer? Even with finings dry hopping can haze a beer pretty good. It can condition out over time, but by then you're going to lose that great aroma you were going for with the dry hopping in the first place. Hop Haze is acceptable for several BJCP styles.
  11. Is there any reason why you're using an American West Coast Ale yeast instead of a wheat yeast? The Oberon Clone I'm brewing soon is very similar, but adds about 3/4 lb of munich malt, hersbrucker only for bittering and saaz at 30, 15, and 10, and then a wheat yeast (WY1010 - American Wheat). I think you're going to be missing some of the esters using that yeast, and the beer will probably clear more than Oberon, which is hazy.
  12. "azmark" post=367993 said:I wasn't saying not knowing your wort temp was unimportant. Just that, knowing that your wort temp, and what ever you are using to cool or heat it, (usually ambient room temps, or ambient fermentation chamber temp) is good to know. If you want 65* wort and you are using your room temp to cool it, you would know from past experience that keeping it at 60* will get you the proper wort temp. Knowing both can be very helpful. I agree with that 100%, knowing both is helpful, but if you only know one, it's better to know wort temp than ambient temp, was my point. In the original post where losman brought this subject up, he implied that he was only measuing ambient temp, which caused confusion for a couple of us. It turns out that inference was incorrect. He was measuring both.
  13. Whether or not you get a boil over doesn't really have anything to do with the length of the boil. You can get a boil over in a 10 Gal pot with a 6 gal boil if you're not paying attention. The key to preventing boil-overs is to be attentive to your boil and make sure that you're not boiling too vigorously. Keep a spray bottle of water or star-san handy if things start to foam up, and stirring helps keeps things under control as well. I used to do 7gallon full volume boils (Down to 6G) in an 8G pot with no problems. It just takes effort to keep it under control. I upgraded to a 10G pot for convenience, and to do 90 min boils (Which would need a bigger starting volume), and got cocky on my first boil, stopped paying attention and had a boil-over. You should be able to do a 2.5 gal boil in a 4 gal pot with no problems, just pay attention and turn your heat down when it starts boiling. All you need is a steady boil, it doesn't need to be a volcano. Check out this video that someone else posted a while back. Look at how Jon Palmer boils. You can see it at the beginning, and again at about the 18:00 mark. It's not a very vigorous boil at all.
  14. FWIW, I use 1968 a lot, and never do a diacetyl rest. The reason they suggest that is that 1968 floccs out so hard at low temps, if you don't keep them high enough they can drop before they're done fermenting. a D-Rest helps this. My advice is to take a sample at 2 weeks and if you detect any diacetyl, then warm it up for a couple days. It sounds like you are fermenting warm enough that it will be fine.
  15. There's nothing wrong with knowing ambient temp, but I am much more concerned with what the actual temp of my fermenting wort is. Ambient Temp by itself is practically meaningless. "azmark" post=367937 said:The ambient temp is what you control. It's good to know. It will always try to make everything in that area the same temp. Unless you have very good (professional) temp control, such as cooling and heating coils around your fermenter, you are controlling ambient temp to control your fermentation temps.
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