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About investingdad

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. docpd wrote: My standard IPA is this recipe: 2 cans ADIPA 1 lb light DME .25 lb Carapils, steeped .25 lb Crystal 20L steeped Hops: .25 oz citra 40 min boil .25 oz cascade 30 min boil .25 oz citra 20 min boil .25 oz cascade 10 min boil 6.9% ABV and IBU 83 I love this one! I think Doc's recipe is about right. I do something pretty similar, though my batch I've got brewing now used Warrior and Simco, plus more Simcoe added dry after 1 week fermenting. I'd also choose a different yeast than MrB dry. But ADIPA is a stellar starting point.
  2. investingdad wrote: My preference is for one finger of dense head. You'll get this by steeping some Crystal malt and boiling some pellet hops in the same MrB recipe you used above. A 1/4 teaspoon priming sugar in a 12 oz bottle should be sufficient for carbing. Sorry, I think I meant to say 1/4 tablespoon priming sugar in a 12 oz bottle. I use corn sugar rather than table sugar. I need to go back and look at my notes on priming sugar amount to be certain!
  3. If you're going to do a MrB recipe, I'd go with Witty Monk. It's light on the palate and very refreshing.
  4. Good call on the extract darkening. I had forgotten about that!
  5. It's hard to draw too many conclusions from beer that's near completion of fermentation only. Did you use a can of UME with the Bewitched? If you didn't, that's a way to improve flavor as there's no booster. If you did, then I would say consider going to the next step and steeping Crystal malt and adding hops to improve body and flavor. You can't underestimate the importance of mouthfeel when it comes to perception of flavor.
  6. If the bottles vary from the same batch as far as taste quality, I'd it's possible that your bottles are not clean prior to bottling. If the variation is between batches, that's a different story. As far as how clear the beer is, you have to remember you're not filtering. Unless you're adding something to clarify the beer (which I've never done and am not familiar with) you're relying on gravity to settle out the particulate. How clear you end up is a function of time and what you started with. As the beer clears, it will be perceived as lighter in color. Even WCPA and booster is going to be darker in color than macro offerings like Lite, Light, or whatever Lyte. Though I'm sure you could dilute it to a 5 gallon batch and get a ligther color if you truly felt the need to do something silly like that.
  7. How did it taste? Was it fairly flat? If it wasn't sweet and was mostly flat it's probably ready for bottling.
  8. For whatever reason a straight MrB recipe that does not use any additional ingredients tends to not retain a lot of carbonation in the form of a large, foamy head. Nothing went wrong, you're seeing typical results. The type of head retention you get will depend on what else you do to your MrB recipe. Boiling pellet hops and adding will give you better head retention but it will tend to be larger, soap sud style bubles and head. Not exactly what you want but still an improvement. My opinion is that you'll need to steep some crystal malt. It's probably the easiest fix to get the dense head you're after. There's lot of topics on here for steeping, it's very simple. Because steeping introduces an ingredient that may or may not have any nasty stuff in it, you'll need to boil the liquid after you tossed the grains that were steeped. Since you're going to boil it for a few minutes just to be sure nothing yucky is in there, throw is some hops for the boil. This should give you a denser head. After you get a few of these under your belt, you may find it appropriate to cut back a bit on the priming sugar. As the beer content changes such that you get a denser head, higher carbonation levels (as you'll get with MrB priming recommendations) will result in WAY TOO MUCH head. My preference is for one finger of dense head. You'll get this by steeping some Crystal malt and boiling some pellet hops in the same MrB recipe you used above. A 1/4 teaspoon priming sugar in a 12 oz bottle should be sufficient for carbing.
  9. I find that doubling up some cheesecloth makes a good grain bag. I bunch up the sides and clip it onto the sides of the pot. My mash for BIAB is a lot like breakfast oatmeal in terms of consistency, but with a thin layer of water on top. I stir on occasion and hold the temp between 150 and 160 for about 60 minutes on the stove top. After the 1 hour, I dunk in a pot of water like it was a steep. If I remember correctly, the last time I had two pots and did two dunks. I then combined them and added the thick run-off from the little saucepan in which I did the mash. My 1 lb mash consists of 1/2 lb specialty grain I want plus 1/2 lb two row. If I'm using Crystal malt, I mix it in as well with the mash grains. Sanitizing the mash saucepan, grain bag, spoon, thermometer, and rinse water pots is pointless (I think). The brewpot and wort are getting boiled for an hour. Time consuming but not that hard. Good luck.
  10. this one is going with Nottingham dry ale yeast, 1 lb light DME, 1/2 lb crystal 40 and Simcoe rather than Amarillo.
  11. So I've not been very active on the forum or the brew works since at least November timeframe. Just too busy with the move we did RIGHT after Christmas. Very hectic and I had a lot of stuff I wanted to get done up front. The good news is that the new house offers up the following advantages: - bigger kitchen than before - walkout basement (I boil in the basement to avoid stinking up the house) with a water connection around the corner on the outside I've still got one last batch of ADIPA that my wife got me way back for my birthday in July of last year and it's time to make it. I'm hitting the LHBS tomorrow for some additives. Here's the plan: - two cans ADIPA - 1/2 pound Crystal 40 - 3/4 oz Warrior for 60 mins - 1/2 oz Amarillo Gold and 1/2 oz Simcoe for 30 mins - 1/2 oz Amarillo Gold and 1/4 oz Simcoe Dry after 1 week - yeast, will give Pacman or Nottingham a try if they have it I'm also going to pick up a 3 pound bag of Light DME, a pound of 2 row, and a pound of a toasted pale or Victory malt for a BIAB partial mash with the same hop schedule. I should be drinking this on my new deck by mid to late summer.
  12. Just dump it in, it will be fine. Just don't breath into the fermenter and close it up quickly. Same method for dry hopping.
  13. My BIAB adventures all went pretty well from the outset. I'll never do all grain, but I think mixing some Crystal, 2 Row, and a specialty Malt needing conversion together prior to boiling with some DME...works well. I posted a thread on here sometime back when I did a BIAB. It included pictures. It was pretty easy. Honest.
  14. From another thread: Here's my pictorial that I posted this weekend: http://community.mrbeer.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=58&func=view&catid=12&id=68880#69109 It's not a comprehensive review of how to do the BIAB. However, here is my super quick summary for a MrB sized batch: - assume 1.25 pounds of malt (grain) to be mashed - put grain bag in sauce pan and fold up the sides - put crushed grains into grain bag - heat 1.75 qts water to 180F - pour hot water over grains - mix well with spoon - insert temp probe - note temperature....target is ~152F. - turn oven burner on lowish setting until temp is at 152F (it should be close if you preheater water to 180F) - hold temp at ~152F for 1 hour (keep above 148F and lower than 156F) ....it may take a batch or two until you get the hang of the burner, but once you got it only minor adjustments are needed... - stir grains occasionally, maybe every 20 minutes. - have two pots of brew water ready, 1 gallon each - heat them to 175F - after 1 hour lift out grain bag and dunk in first pot of water for 10 minutes, swish and swirl a bit - then repeat in second pot for 10 minutes That's it. You're done. You now have wort to which you can add your Malt Extract and hops. Because I have smaller pots, I add my malt extract and hops to just one of the pots for the 1 hour of boiling. Remember, you're doing your own hopping so it's 1 hour of boil time. The other pot I boil for just a few minutes to sterilize anything that may be in there. Then I chill it and add to the fermenter. It just sits in there while the first pot is still boiling away.
  15. FedoraDave wrote: Hurst/Olds wrote: Not a hop head either. Maybe my aversion to adding hops is because I've added hops to already hopped HME..... . I like the idea of a stripped down all DME brew with a bold hop schedule. I don't like bitterness for the sake of bitterness, and I don't like to be overpowered by it. I tried Dogfish Head 60-Minute IPA last spring, and that was just about the limit for me.I don't think the recipe I'm planning will be anywhere near that. But the hops will probably dominate the malt a little. I chose Centennial because it has a distinctive flavor and aroma to me, and I feel it will be easier for me to make adjustments in subsequent batches. I felt the same way about 60 Minute when I first had it, now I can't put it down. Same with Stone IPA. I've moved away from maltier beers for the time being, though I still like my Heffe and a Russian Imperial Stout on occasion. Have you done any mini-mashes yet? I've not been as active on here lately so if you have, I would have missed your posting about it. I was just thinking that if you're going to be steeping that much grain, why not do a partial mash in a bag on the stove top? Throw in some 2-row and go with half biscuit malt that needs coverting and half crystal malt (say 20L).
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