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gophers6

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Everything posted by gophers6

  1. yankeedag wrote: drop the booster. it will thin out the beer. you're gonna change the flavor profile with more hops. if you want to see how things go, go with the can of VO Hme after you do the boil for the DME. and the next time, you could use a non-MB yeast to see how things change. You state that booster will thin the beer. Mr Beer states that booster adds body. Booster is indeed a chameleon like product.
  2. I can put 2 bottles in the fridge for a week. One will be just fine and the other will be a volcano. Really no rhyme or reason to it. Just the nature of the beast I guess.
  3. I've found it helps to put over carbed bottles in the freezer for 15 minutes before opening. The cold seems to settle down the carb.
  4. I posted in another thread a month ago that I had a brown ale from Hub City brewing of Iowa. It had the same MB taste. My wife tasted it and said "It tastes like the beer you make."
  5. Yankeedag, I'm not following why you transfer to a 2.5 G. slimline and then cold crash the slimline. Why not just put the fermenter in the fridge?
  6. yankeedag wrote: Your welcome...BeerBorg Information Central at your service. I have 1 concern about cold crashing. It would seem like you lose a fair amount of yeast during the process. Is it possible that there's not enough left to carb?
  7. Welcome to the club. Never seen a board with so many friendly, helpful people. I've been at this a year and a half and still have a lot to learn. I continue to be amazed at just how damn good the beer is.
  8. 3 cans + honey sounds like a bit much. Right now I'm drinking the recipe Cowboy Honey Wheat which is: 1 can Cowboy Golden HME 1 can Golden Wheat UME 1 cup Honey 1/4 oz cascade hops that were left from another brew. Turned out great. Beats the crap out of the store bought honey wheat I've got here.
  9. One Step is a sanitizer, not a cleanser. Those are 2 different things. You need to clean and sanitize.
  10. yankeedag wrote: This is why it's important to take the keg apart and clean it all. I've only lost ONE batch of beer due to sanitation. The other beer I lost was because others were drinking it. I find that rinsing out the keg, letting the keg sit a bit full of oxyclean infested water is helpful. Then I just tip the keg up and remove the spigot, and drop it in the water that stays in the lower half of the keg. I haven't had any further problems. Well, except for others still drinking my beer...bloody leprechauns! Looks like you forgot to remove the outside washer from the spigot. :ohmy:
  11. 1 3/4 should be enough to give a fair amout of carb. Letting it carb at room temp for 3 weeks should help.
  12. I'm quitting for 2 months. Just too hot in the house. Even the basement is 78. I took my last 2 batches to a friends basement to condition at 68. I've got a pretty good supply built up.
  13. Can I take back what I said about the Basic Brown recipe? When I had my first bottle I described it as thin, cidery, not much too it. After 6 more weeks in the basement I'd call it a lighter bodied, brown ale with a nice mild flavor, nice color, good foam. I'm sorry I doubted you Mr.Beer.
  14. I don't think the taste test at bottling means a dam thing except to verify: flat, not sweet. They all have kind of a funny sour taste.
  15. I've had that strong alcohol taste early on but it mellowed out with a couple months conditioning.
  16. I don't think you should have poured the other batch out. As long as you're that far you might as well bottle it and see what happens. To me they all have a kind of sour taste at bottling time.
  17. That's another plus for PET bottles. If not for them you would've never known there was a problem till drinking time.
  18. Only time I used the Cowboy was in the Cowboy Honey Wheat. It's a pretty dam good brew but certainly not hoppy. I even put in some Arg. Cascade hops I had left over, still not hoppy.
  19. I been at this a year and a half and I still don't get why the instructions say wait till it clears up and then bottle. Mine never clear up so I ignore that part and bottle anyway. It clears up in the bottle.
  20. If it says use by 05 it was probably packaged in 03. Hard to believe it's still good. I'd also be a little concerned about the cleanliness of a MrB fermenter from a garage sale. Welcome and good luck.
  21. One of my batches turned out with an undesirably strong alcohol taste but after 2 months of warm conditioning it was much more mild.
  22. 1. Augsburg Dark + 3/4 cup honey 2. Snow Drift + steeping grains
  23. LowTech wrote: Ok. This is one conundrum. The only way the hydrometer that floats at 1.000 in water yet sinks in 'beer' is that the liquid is not beer. US-05 yeast can't make the ethanol required to sink the hydrometer. All I can think is that there wasn't enough of a sample to make the hydrometer float. I have done this myself, kinda. I once took a sample for a satellite on a high grav recipe and let just enough beer into the tube to barley (woops, barely) float the stick. This was a week into the ferment so I wasn't starting out at OG but somewhere in between. Once fermentation finished there wasn't enough liquid to float it at all. To get from 1.070 to 1.017 you need at least a little overhead to allow for the less dense sample at the end, maybe 5-6 centimeters?? Does filling the tube really mean to the top? No, the tube wasn't totaly full. But once the hydrometer is completely submerged it shouldn't matter how full the tube is.
  24. yankeedag wrote: give it two weeks. yeast swims. :stout: um, you got a hydrometer? If he does I hope he gets along with it better than I did.
  25. I'll report back in 4 weeks. Thanks guys.
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