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gophers6

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Everything posted by gophers6

  1. esheppy wrote: Well... I personally do not think everyone needs a hydrometer... but that is a different topic. If your beer is reading less than one, something is wrong. No beer should attenuate that well. I am assuming you used a beer yeast and not champagne yeast or something designed for higher alcohol drinks. I think if you have a really nasty bacterial infection, it is possible to get more attenuation ... but less than one sounds extreme unless it has been fermenting for months. Did you taste your sample? Did it taste like beer? You say the hydrometer sunk to the bottom ... did you fill the tube up with enough beer so that the top of the hydrometer was submerged? Something just doesn't add up here. Take a look at: 1. I used Safale US 05 2. no sign of infection 3. taste test as usual at 19 days; flat, not sweet 4. I filled the tube, hydrometer fell to bottom completely submerged 5. bottled it last nite
  2. Everybody says ya gotta have a hydrometer so I finaly bought one and a test tube with it. I took my first sample at 19 days and the hyd. just sinks to the bottom of the tube. I filled the tube with water and got a reading of 1.0. What's this mean, is my beer lighter than water?
  3. The instructions I got said 7 days in the fermenter and 7 days to carb. Then in real fine print it says longer is better.
  4. I plan to bottle this weekend with Cooper Tabs for the first time. Do you just drop them in and leave them, or invert and swish a little to get them to start dissolving? I'm doing 2 batches, dividing each 3 ways to compare priming sugars. 1/3 will get the tabs, 1/3 will get corn sugar, 1/3 will get regular sugar.
  5. Since Beaver Creek runs thru our farm I went with "Beaver Creek Brewery". My friends want me to make up T shirts with a logo but that seems kinda spendy.
  6. truckndad wrote: FedoraDave wrote: But why use bleach or isopropyl alcohol when you've already got the sanitizer you used on the bottles? For the record, I put my bottle caps in a bowl and add sanitizer to cover. It sits there the whole time I'm bottling. Then, if I drop a bottle cap or need a little sanitizer for another reason, I have a bowl of it right there. Easiest thing in the world to dip a Q-Tip in it and sanitize the inside of the spigot before beginning the process. One thing I've learned is never dump out all of your sanitizer until the job is finished, whether brewing or bottling. That is a big +1 Best advice of the day. It seems like there's always something else to sanitize. I fill a shot glass with sanitizer and hold it up to the spigot to sanitize the inside of it.
  7. I always fill 1 or 2 PET bottles. I like to use them when I have company. When I pour into a glass I leave an inch in the bottom of the bottle so as not to pour trub into the glass. My theory is with the bigger bottles I'm getting a higher percentage of usable beer than with 12 oz bottles (assuming I leave an inch in both.)
  8. gophers6

    Red ale

    I also made the BewRedAle + Mellow Amber. Kinda blah. One of my weaker brews.
  9. more beer here wrote: Thanks guys.I have always had my masking tape & sharpie handy and I have been using a "dot" sticker on the cap but I just don't know why I didn't use any of these on this and another batch that I have.Oh well makes drinking them fun-kind of like a little "surprise" when you open the bottle.Oh well -First rounds on me....... Kind of a bland picture after the one you put on the "Premature Yeast Death" thread.
  10. Maybe you should try getting back with your ex. A gal who buys you a MrBeer kit must be a keeper.
  11. I pointed the same thing out 2 weeks ago. I said there's a typo by MrBeer on the kegs, 8.5 L and 8.5 qt on the same line. People argued with me. Thanks for posting the picture. I never measured to see what's right, always just filled to the line.
  12. I've got 7 rolls of different colors of electrical tape. I put a piece of tape on top of each bottle cap to identify the brew. I have a large Post It note on the fridge showing which color is which brew. Hasn't failed me yet.
  13. One thing I forgot to ask: I've always gone 2.5-3 weeks with MRBEER yeast. How much quicker {if any} would you predict it be with the US_05?
  14. When I pour, I leave an inch in the bottom of the bottle so as not to get off flavor from the trub into the clear beer. When I'm done drinking the clear beer I pour the last inch into the glass and drink it. I realize some people don't like the taste of that last inch so if I have company I pour it into my glass.
  15. So I finally took this boards advice and tried the Safale US-05 instead of the MRBEER packet. I made 2 batches with one 11 gram pack. Holy Crap! By day 2 I had foam up to the lid of the fermenters. That's with 1/2 a packet and at 66 degrees. I made the Brew Ha Ha + steeping grains + Sterling hops and Ottos Oktoberfest + steeping grains + Hallertau hops. Interestingly the brewometers never changed from 66 even with all the activity.
  16. Stop staring at the picture and help the poor guy. Doesn't it sound like he might have what's known as "stuck fermentation?" He says it's very sweet after 2 weeks.
  17. Like I posted on another thread, Midwest Supplies says to let the yeast sit on top 15 minutes before stirring. I think you're in good shape.
  18. Wow! That's am impressive looking brew, even more so coming on the first try.
  19. I'd leave em alone at this point. It's not like they'll be severely under carbed.
  20. I assume he has the 1 liter bottles from MB in which case the 2.5 tsp is correct.
  21. The numbers in the instructions don't come out proportionately for all the sizes. I'd use 3 tsp/40. The amount is the same for corn or table sugar. Most brewers recommend corn but I don't see the difference.
  22. You might get a little off flavor from being too warm but I think you'll still have good beer. I've had mine get up to 78-80, turned out OK.
  23. I kept some sealed up good in the freezer for 6 months, they seemed to be fine.
  24. Thanks guys. Maybe I read too much.
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